i had something similar to that when i listened closely i could hear my stepper motor for the extruder skipping steps, i increased nozzle temp a bit, adjusted the stepper's driver to feed it more voltage and put less tension on the filament idler pulley in your case i think its voltage, seeing as how the other layers print fine but on the first layer its trying to go double normal speed and juby DaGameFace - General
I had a similar problem, Try taking the hot end off the print head and see if it can get up to temperature thenby DaGameFace - General
Found the problem, I thought my steppers had more micros temping than they actually do, caused a lot of weirdnessby DaGameFace - General
Error 404 from the link. Want to just copy and paste it?by DaGameFace - General
The steps per mm calculation only cares about the drive pulley, if the other is just an idler(think yours is?) then ignore it in the calculationsby DaGameFace - General
Should be really easy to change the firmware. Think there are just two variables you need to change that say x and y size. Aside from that, maybe more lash in your belts if hyouhave go really big, but don't think that this small jump should be too noticeable.by DaGameFace - General
Glad to hear you fixed it, I took the opportunity to try the repair settings in simplify 3d last night. While it was able to identify the problem areas, I couldn't make it fix them.by DaGameFace - General
He 3D - XI3 Prusa i3 When I tell the printer to print something as a dry run the axis move just fine, but using the LCD controls the axis don't move well at all and when i tell it to home any axis, or home all the only thing that happens is the stepper motors make a lot of noise but none of them move at all. Again, any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.by DaGameFace - General
Fixed, kind of Still think the underwhelming power supply is a problem but by increasing the distance of the hot end from my bowden style print head I was able to get it up to tempby DaGameFace - General
The only advice I can offer is don't get acrylic frame, wood or metal is the way to go.by DaGameFace - General
That was the problem, I didn't know what software to use, it didn't seem to be mentioned in anything i was reading, maybe i was just missing it. Thanks a bunch!by DaGameFace - General
I've read good things about Hatchbox wood filament, not sure what kind of wood it is though. Edit: may want to stick with a .5mm nozzle for wood btwby DaGameFace - General
An interesting idea, I didn't know that airbrush nozzles are so small. Haven't ever heard of this but I don't see why it can't be done. The real problem I have here is Why would you? 3D printer nozzles are pretty cheap and last quite a while, and are plenty precise.by DaGameFace - General
"Idea from analytics: One should maybe design a DIY radial blower with the correct diameter right from the beginning. Of course, the DIY blower would become a little smaller therefore." looks like you didn't finish you thought? Anyway, the quality of the fan does make a pretty big difference. Noctua brand fans are known to be some of the best and sell their fans in many sizes. If you want extreby DaGameFace - General
So, I've been watching Thomas Sanladerer's 3d printing videos and reading about calibrating/ fine tuning your 3d printer. But while and other places give specific lines of code to send to your printer and say to look for its response, I cant seem to find how to actually interface with the printer. In one of Thomas Sanladerer's he shows himself using OctoPi but when I try to download it, Firefoxby DaGameFace - General
I have an i3 Prusa that i just finished building and I think the power supply is crap. It only outputs 10.75 Volts and that's after i tried to adjust it with the set screw. When I attempted to do a test print the extruder couldn't heat above 167, it would bounce around 165.5 to 167.0 while the target temperature was set to 200. just checked the voltage to the print head, its only 8.5 V Any ideaby DaGameFace - General