Have a look at the attached. Only three wires are needed for the endstops. You will need to change the thermocouple in the hotend to a thermistor, i'd forgotten about that, sorry! I don't think it's worth bothering with the external thermocouple boards. New thermistors pre-wired are $2/£2 each from the likes of ebay. While you've got the spiral wrap off the loom to the hot-end assembly, addby slippyr4 - General
No, the pinout is a mirror image of the polulu standard and they use digipots for current control, which the new board doesn't. Get yourself a set of A4988 drivers, you need to set the Vref manually but that's easy enough. They cost about $10/£8 for a set from china. With my CTC I couldn't find any useful information about the steppers and the current they need. In the end I assumed they are 0.by slippyr4 - General
No there's not much difference.by slippyr4 - General
That's a mightyboard which fits with it being a Replicator clone. I bet it's a CTC. EDIT: it's not a CTC but a skytech. You could put sailfish on it, or scrap the mightyboard and change electronics. In my one I changed to an MKS GEN 1.4 which is a RAMPS compatible all in one which is well supported in marlin. It's not very hard to swap although you will need to crimp quite a few JST-XH connectby slippyr4 - General
They look like JST-XH to me. Which is pretty common.by slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm struggling to get my clone i3 mk2 with my clone mk42 bed to pass XYZ calibration. I'm not sure what's wrong, but I think it may be the bed. I'm wondering if someone who has an original would be kind enough to help me by recalibration thei printer and sending me some of the diagnostic output. This will have the effect of recalibrating your printer and restarting the mesh bed levelling. To doby slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
You'd get better results from 0.9degree steppers at 1/16 than regular 1.8degree steppers at 1/32.by slippyr4 - General
try using max_pwm on your bed temperaturecontrol module to cap the duty cycle for the bed. His will in effect reduce the maximum power and you may well find you will get away without changing anythingby slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Surely a relay on the output isn't a great idea? There's a hard-to-quantify, possibly variable, and significant delay on the output which will serious reduce accuracy! Simon, is the electronics open source? Where is the schematic?by slippyr4 - General
Quotefrankvdh I'm not even sure what the Bowden connector thread is... maybe 10mm diameter, but I'm pretty sure it's not M10. Very often they are BSP threads. if it's about 10mm major diameter then it's probaly 1/8" BSP which is 9.7mm OD IIRC. Some of mine are tapered threads and some are straight. I'm in the same situation as you, I need to mount the connector on the top of mine in order toby slippyr4 - General
You don't measure current to set stepper current, you measure the beef on thenstepper driver. There are pages on the reprap wiki that explain it.by slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
well mine has just arrived, looks good! thanksby slippyr4 - General
I'm not sure you have missed the boat - people keep on backing it on indiegogo. However, noone has had their boards yet, and the updates from the campaign are infrequent and so far every timescale promised has been missed. Many backers are quite frustrated. I suggest you read all the comments on indiegogo before you put your money in.by slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Yep, pretty much. There are a few things disabled around the lack of digipots and knock on effects of certain defineds, but it's not really very complex. But i've tried to do it in a maintainable way so that i can merge upstream changes into it.by slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDust @newelley no. marlin does not contain the code to do this at this time. At this time only Prusa firmware does this and its been trimmed and customized to only work on mini-rambo boards. I've ported it to work with RAMPS and RAMPS clones like MKS boards. The only thing that doesn't work is silent mode because on RAMPS there are no digipots for stepper current. - take the v3.0.11-Rby slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
It's something i'd be interested in trying, yeah. The scad for the extruder is quite a mess really but it's decipherable.by slippyr4 - General
Sure, i can, but probably the best you're going to get is the asswembly instructions:-by slippyr4 - General
Ordered one. Will be interesting to have a play. It looks like it'll go straight on to my e3d converted CTC but where I'd really like to use it is the prusa but I can't see how that will work.by slippyr4 - General
THe CTC isn't a reprap but it's a good first printer IF you have the skills to get it working properly. They aren't that well made but will some work they can be made to print pretty well. Further, there are a lot of them out there which means there is a lot of support on forums etc when you need it. I've used mine to print PETG, HIPS, ABS and PLA and it has printed all the parts for my prusa mby slippyr4 - General
Calculating energy requirements on the output is no more wrong than the input, because they produce the same result. But it's probably easier to calculate the output. No extruder can extrude 100mm/s of filament, but it's not necessary to either. 100mm of input on a .4mm nozzle is about 1900mm of extruded output- what printer can move at that rate in XY?by slippyr4 - General
Your sums are way off. PLA isn't water and it's specific heat capacity is very different (about 1800 J/Kg.K, vs 4200 J/Kg.K). I suspect that figure varies quite a bit for different colours and makes of PLA too.by slippyr4 - General
Do you need a max endstop? Do you use xmax or ymax? You could use thos.by slippyr4 - General
I've never used a second endstop myself so don't have direct experience of that. IIRC there's a section on it, with notes, in configuration_adv.h. Have you read that?by slippyr4 - General
IIRC marlin expects to use the pins from the first unused extruder stepper for Z2. The rest of it doesn't really matter. You can always come up with your own pin sets by editing the right pins.h or even creating your own board config.by slippyr4 - General
Perhaps this will help.by slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
The heat sink isn't optional, and nor is the fan. The plastic isn't meant to melt until it's past the heatbreak I the nozzle area, and your lack of cooling means that it is. It will never work until you use it as designed.by slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotescottybfg Yes, Slic3r has what they call microlayering, it combines infill every "nth" layer. So you could have your layer height set to 0.1mm then set microlayering to 2 layers to get infill at 0.2mm. This setting can be temperamental and only likes to work when you have a small layer height, anything over 0.2 and it dose not like to work. Simplify3d can do this too. But I took the OP's qby slippyr4 - General
Really you need 450W in a bed that size, as has been said above you're pushing it to do that with DC. Dropping your PSU voltage is throwing away power though ; consider keeping it at 24V and limiting the current with max PWM duty cycle, if your electronics and firmware support that.by slippyr4 - General
I think you're pushing your extruder too hard. My e3d v6 clone can happily extrude into open air at 200mm/m but if you go much faster you start to get issues. A print speed of 60mm/s with layer height 0.2mm and width 0.4mm is in the ballpark of 2mm/s of filament, so expecting you'd be able to extrude 50mm/s is I think unrealistic. This has been discussed a lot before and I think a google will finby slippyr4 - Smoothie