New MKS SBASE Smoothieware-compatible board from China

Quote
bobc
I had a look at servo specs before, to see if the control signal is 3.3V compatible. The answer is it depends on the servo. e.g. this one indicates 5V [www.micropik.com] but this one says 3.3V to 5V [www.parallax.com]

The servo must still be powered at 5V (or whatever normal supply voltage) of course.

So either find a servo with a known spec, or trial and error. Sparkfun sell a little level translator which should work [www.sparkfun.com]

Do you mean that I need to find a servo which support operation with 3V on a signal wire? Are these exist?

Quote
tomi01_2000
i have a dead 3d printer buy it from here

the initial motherboard was with problems - problems on axe x,
i changed the mb with a second, same model, from China (new problems - imposible to build a cube of 1 cm - always is making 0.5mm on axe Z) ... imposible to find a firmware/ CMOS able to modify the errors

Now,
i try to change my printer on a smothie system - motherboard. The same mb like BOBC - MKS SBASE v1.2
I have been installed my new motherboard on the computer (no problems with the drivers - all it's seems to be ok ), but when i try to connect my computer, on my printer using com5 ( port Com - Uberclock) , i have no answer from the printer.

Help!
I don't have a screen / lcd for my mb compatible with the motherboard

1.i need a lcd? it is necessary? what lcd i can use it for this motherboard?
2.i try it to make a firmware, with the firmware from the pack - nothing!

Hi,

Which software do you use to connect? pronterface, reptier etc. something else? If the driver installation on the system was successful, have you set the baud rates correctly?
Do you note any abnormal LED status on the board (series leds on top side of MKS SBASE name tag) when you connect the board to the system? If the connection is done correctly, the D2 and D3 LED will blink while rest others will lit up and stay constant.
[silly question but nothing wrong to ask ] Have you flash the firmware and inserted the SD card into the board slot before testing? (The image shows there is no sd card inserted)

Quote
dintid
You do not need LCD.
I'll recommend using the MKS 28 or 32 boards.. very slick touch-screen which aren't more expensive than the old lcd types.

How do you try to make firmware? Firmware is literally a .bin file and a .txt file.
I have made an Instructables you might find usefull: Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

How do you connect?
Pronterface, or?
Baudrate needs to be 115200.
Smoothieware does not give a lot of info once connected like marlin.
Do you get no info or error info? No info might be fine.
edit: if you have not configured the config.txt file for YOUR printer, you can not expect it to do anything even when you connect to it.

Have you configured your printer via the config.txt file?

I use Pronterface / 115200 (i've been try it Cura and Repetier ... and nothing's )

i have to work on 200 , 230 , 210 (x,y,z) + nozzle 0.4 + 1.75 mm diameter for PLA

i don't have the right ideea how i have to write this on config.txt
... (i did it once using config.txt + firmware.bin - but using all defaults from yours instructables)

Now it's clear for me - i have to change in config.txt all the parameters for my mb ... but i don't have the capacities to make well the settings (i have to study how i have to write all ok in config.txt)

Quote
tuxhead
Hi,

Which software do you use to connect? pronterface, reptier etc. something else? If the driver installation on the system was successful, have you set the baud rates correctly?
Do you note any abnormal LED status on the board (series leds on top side of MKS SBASE name tag) when you connect the board to the system? If the connection is done correctly, the D2 and D3 LED will blink while rest others will lit up and stay constant.
[silly question but nothing wrong to ask ] Have you flash the firmware and inserted the SD card into the board slot before testing? (The image shows there is no sd card inserted)

D2 and D3 blink
D4 do not blink or light
D1 and D7 rest lit up and constant

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 04/25/2016 01:22PM by tomi01_2000.

please, is anybody who have an pdf with explications for config.txt?
to light me up exactly the values for all the settings

Quote
tomi01_2000
please, is anybody who have an pdf with explications for config.txt?
to light me up exactly the values for all the settings

Do you mean config.txt explanation? There is no pdf explanation as far as I know. You can read on Smoothieware.org or you might want to take a look at the instructable I made for Sbase/Smoothieware
Please vote if you like it

---

My Instructables - both total newbie instructables and some for intermediate users.
My Designs on Thingiverse
YouTube channel containing a few 3D printing videos - they are videos for my Instructables, and mostly not standalone.
Ultius / Tantillus Thingiverse Group

I've been migrating my Delta Kossel XL from RAMPS/Marlin to this board (+ TFT32) over the last few days, and have some observations / insights / issues to share that I did not see discussed before I went ahead with purchasing the board:

1. The TFT32 is really not a comparable replacement for your standard RepRap discount LCD. There is no screen that displays a nice "current status" - with X/Y/Z locations, temperature, etc., like you get on a normal LCD. The instructions on the TFT32 are incorrect (there is no printer configuration screen in the menu to select "Delta"). There is also no firmware source or binary code on the makerbase-mks github (and the listing points to an incorrect "makerbase" repository on github which is unrelated). The parameters shown on the screen do not necessarily represent the current status of the printer (e.g. it can show a target bed temperature of 100 degrees, when the bed is actually off ... the info is not read 'live' from the controller). Essentially, the TFT32 gives you a cut-down "pronterface"-type screen to issue commands to the printer, but the menu system is goofy (e.g. when controlling the extruder, "out" means to retract, and "in" means extrude) and not particularly nice to use. If I had my time again, I would skip the TFT32 and either get the TFT28 (which at least has source code on github) or a 12864.
2. There are missing modules from the MKS build of the Smoothieware firmware - For example, G29 (autolevel) is not supported. The MKS version of Smoothieware isn't published as a branch - it's a completely separate repository (which makes it difficult to bring back up to date with the latest Smoothieware release). I would have expected full functionality built-in, however not everything seems to work as per the Smoothieware documentation, which can be frustrating when you're trying to set up and test everything.
3. TemperatureSwitch is unreliable - I had this configured to turn the hotend fan on when the hotend temp went over 50 degrees, however it doesn't always work. This may be due to bugs in the older MKS build of the firmware, or some other weirdness - but this is something that you just expect to work, and bad things happen when you don't have the hotend fan on an E3D v6.
4. There are incorrect default parameters in the example Delta config file - thermistor pins are switched for hotend / heated bed, and the fan output pin is incorrect.
5. Sensible failsafe parameters don't seem to be easily found (in Marlin - things like motor auto-off, prevent-dangerous-extrude are set by default). Maybe they're options that can be brought in somewhere but they're not obvious or set by default (this is more a Smoothieware issue than MKS issue).
6. The standard Smoothieware build will boot this board - allowing some MKS-broken things like G29 autolevel work - but there seems to be other things that then break, for example, it will no longer talk to the TFT32 (and the TFT32 has no 'communications failure' warning when it can't talk to the board ... it's pretty dumb). This was my latest change - so I haven't explored it fully yet.

Quote
zylantha
I've been migrating my Delta Kossel XL from RAMPS/Marlin to this board (+ TFT32) over the last few days, and have some observations / insights / issues to share that I did not see discussed before I went ahead with purchasing the board:

1. The TFT32 is really not a comparable replacement for your standard RepRap discount LCD. There is no screen that displays a nice "current status" - with X/Y/Z locations, temperature, etc., like you get on a normal LCD. The instructions on the TFT32 are incorrect (there is no printer configuration screen in the menu to select "Delta"). There is also no firmware source or binary code on the makerbase-mks github (and the listing points to an incorrect "makerbase" repository on github which is unrelated). The parameters shown on the screen do not necessarily represent the current status of the printer (e.g. it can show a target bed temperature of 100 degrees, when the bed is actually off ... the info is not read 'live' from the controller). Essentially, the TFT32 gives you a cut-down "pronterface"-type screen to issue commands to the printer, but the menu system is goofy (e.g. when controlling the extruder, "out" means to retract, and "in" means extrude) and not particularly nice to use. If I had my time again, I would skip the TFT32 and either get the TFT28 (which at least has source code on github) or a 12864.
2. There are missing modules from the MKS build of the Smoothieware firmware - For example, G29 (autolevel) is not supported. The MKS version of Smoothieware isn't published as a branch - it's a completely separate repository (which makes it difficult to bring back up to date with the latest Smoothieware release). I would have expected full functionality built-in, however not everything seems to work as per the Smoothieware documentation, which can be frustrating when you're trying to set up and test everything.
3. TemperatureSwitch is unreliable - I had this configured to turn the hotend fan on when the hotend temp went over 50 degrees, however it doesn't always work. This may be due to bugs in the older MKS build of the firmware, or some other weirdness - but this is something that you just expect to work, and bad things happen when you don't have the hotend fan on an E3D v6.
4. There are incorrect default parameters in the example Delta config file - thermistor pins are switched for hotend / heated bed, and the fan output pin is incorrect.
5. Sensible failsafe parameters don't seem to be easily found (in Marlin - things like motor auto-off, prevent-dangerous-extrude are set by default). Maybe they're options that can be brought in somewhere but they're not obvious or set by default (this is more a Smoothieware issue than MKS issue).
6. The standard Smoothieware build will boot this board - allowing some MKS-broken things like G29 autolevel work - but there seems to be other things that then break, for example, it will no longer talk to the TFT32 (and the TFT32 has no 'communications failure' warning when it can't talk to the board ... it's pretty dumb). This was my latest change - so I haven't explored it fully yet.

You really are wrong on multiple accounts

• You are correct on not listing XYZ coordinates, but there is overview of temperature, fan and time printed. You do need to start print from the display though.
• There IS firmware repository on Github. I've been using it a lot. [github.com] as far as I know the TFT28 and TFT32 use same code, might be wrong though?
• All my info is ALWAYS correct.. maybe you have some bad wiring? I have been using it for some months now. Edit: IS your baud rate set to 115200 in firmware AND in display?
• I use Smoothieware firmware on my Sbase, so don't see a problem to bringing anything up to date?
• Temperature switch: That is a "bug" which actually Works as intended - in Smoothieware. Nothing to do with the MKS Panel. I have put up a change request, which should be put in. [github.com]
• The hotend heatbed and pins.. you need to use the correct schematics. They are listed wrong on old, but are correct on new. Take a peek at my instructable here: [www.instructables.com]
• Sensible failsafe parameters.. yes, I worry about that, but the developer said they were build in automatically.. I would like them to be better documented as well.
• G29.. I don't know. I manually level my printer.

EDIT: You MUST set baud rate to 115200 in both firmware and on TFT32 to make it Work correctly. If you use WIFI module you also MUST set it to 115200

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 04/30/2016 04:46AM by dintid.

---

My Instructables - both total newbie instructables and some for intermediate users.
My Designs on Thingiverse
YouTube channel containing a few 3D printing videos - they are videos for my Instructables, and mostly not standalone.
Ultius / Tantillus Thingiverse Group

proper pin layout picture

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Check my rubbish blog for my prusa i3

up and running
[3dimetech.blogspot.co.uk]

Quote
chris33
proper pin layout picture

Just inserting it here:


This is the image from my instructable about Sbase and Smoothieware


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/01/2016 03:58AM by dintid.

---

My Instructables - both total newbie instructables and some for intermediate users.
My Designs on Thingiverse
YouTube channel containing a few 3D printing videos - they are videos for my Instructables, and mostly not standalone.
Ultius / Tantillus Thingiverse Group

im in the process of building an ox cnc with mks sbase.
if it turns out good will get original smoothieboard for personal setup. just hope v2 is available by then.

i'm not able to write a good firmware on the motherboard ....

i ordered this - Ultimaker-2-Kit-Ultimaker-V2-1-1-Controller-Board-OLED-Display-Adapter on ebay.fr - because last version of this ultimaker motherboard it is compatible with Cura 15.06.3. And this version of Cura it let me write his firmware directly, without to modify a config.txt or any other files

I'm having a curisou and very very annoying problem with my setup.

Before I bought this Sbase 1.2 Card I've been using Marlin on Arduino mega and Ramps for 4 months on this printer and everything has been very nice.
It's an Ultimaker 2 clone

After I've set everything up and start moving the axes it goes very nicely.. axes moves very smoothly back and forth.

However, when I start printing both axes are making a lot of noise.. like shaking/grinding noise.. I once had a similar noise when my axes weren't Square, but that is not the case here.

I have gone as far as to remove the Carriage and the axes are till making the noise once I start test-printing.

I have not setup any crazy segments or other stuff in firmware. I'm mostly just going with standard config with just configured steps and endstops fitting my machine.

Any ideas?

---

My Instructables - both total newbie instructables and some for intermediate users.
My Designs on Thingiverse
YouTube channel containing a few 3D printing videos - they are videos for my Instructables, and mostly not standalone.
Ultius / Tantillus Thingiverse Group

Quote
dintid
You are correct on not listing XYZ coordinates, but there is overview of temperature, fan and time printed. You do need to start print from the display though.

I do not print from the display - it's a display. I print from Octoprint on a Raspberry Pi 3 connected to the SBASE over USB.

There is no status window on the display to be found.

Quote
dintid
There IS firmware repository on Github. I've been using it a lot. [github.com] as far as I know the TFT28 and TFT32 use same code, might be wrong though?

The specs are different for TFT28 and TFT32 - specifically, the TFT32 does not support RAMPS. After further consideration, I think this is because the TFT32 does not have an external 5V input, whereas the TFT28 does. However, the firmware file is specified to be "mkstft32.bin" which does not exist anywhere on the git repository. Maybe it is the same, but it's not called this - and there's nothing in the repository or instructions to say "just grab the mkstft28.bin and rename it" ...

The instructions are clear on the Aliexpress site -

Quote
MKS
Step1: turn on MKS TFT32 at first time, then enter --> setting --> connection, select baud rate that the firmware use.
Step2: enter --> setting -->model, choose printer type, only Delta and other two options

However there is no "model" option in the settings screen on the TFT32.

Quote
dintid
All my info is ALWAYS correct.. maybe you have some bad wiring? I have been using it for some months now. Edit: IS your baud rate set to 115200 in firmware AND in display?

The only wiring is the ribbon cable that was supplied between the two devices. Baud rate was never changed from default. Just to clarify: The current temperature will update on the display, however the display will not update the current TARGET temperature. The current set temperature is basically never correct on the TFT32, unless I have manually set it from the TFT32 itself. I have now done dozens of prints using Smoothieware on this board ... and know that I can simply never trust the target temperature on the screen. Also, the 'actual' temperature is VERY slow to update on the TFT32 - lags of several seconds.

And while we're on that topic .. the TFT32 has NO saved temperatures. You can't say "Preheat PLA" or "Preheat ABS" ... you have to go to the 'preheat' screen (which even though it's cold will show a target temperature of 50 ... or maybe 0), and then you need to change the 'increment' value to 10, hit the + sign 22 times to get it to 220 degrees, then hit the increment several times to get it to +1, then the + sign another 5 to get it to 225 degrees ... for no logical reason. Is there any defending this type of UX defect?

Quote
dintid
I use Smoothieware firmware on my Sbase, so don't see a problem to bringing anything up to date?

Agreed ... the core Smoothieware firmware is now behaving itself, it seemed to just be an initial glitch where it stopped responding to 'home' commands from the TFT32. However there is no two-way connection feedback from the TFT32 to indicate that it's not receiving info back from the SBASE when things aren't going right ... it will happily issue commands to a dead / unresponsive board without error, and display updated target temperatures that are never set.

Quote
dintid
Temperature switch: That is a "bug" which actually Works as intended - in Smoothieware. Nothing to do with the MKS Panel. I have put up a change request, which should be put in. [github.com]

Agreed - Seems to be a Smoothieware problem. I have commented out the M-codes for enabling/disabling the fan and haven't noticed the issue since.

Quote
dintid
The hotend heatbed and pins.. you need to use the correct schematics. They are listed wrong on old, but are correct on new. Take a peek at my instructable here: [www.instructables.com]

I connected the board up correctly, as per your diagrams which are consistent with those on the MKS Aliexpress site. However, my original statement was the Delta configuration file on the makerbase-mks github repository has the incorrect pins set as defaults for these outputs. I should not have to fix this, it should be right in the default configuration. I have logged a correction request on their repository.

Quote
dintid
Sensible failsafe parameters.. yes, I worry about that, but the developer said they were build in automatically.. I would like them to be better documented as well.

I think this is a Smoothieware issue really. It just doesn't seem to have the inbuilt id10t protection built in that Marlin does. But some other things just make mechanical sense - like disabling the stepper motors after a period of inactivity (otherwise they just get hot for no reason).

I have updated my job end scripts to incorporate motor-off commands so it's not so much of an issue, but it's just annoying I have to do this.

Quote
dintid
G29.. I don't know. I manually level my printer.[/list]

There are two grades (levels?) of autolevel in Smoothie for deltas, and it's pretty critical to have a known bed geometry because of the complexities involved in printing with a delta. G29 is normally issued before every print job.

Not having the autolevel modulse built into the firmware isn't really acceptable - however as it seems you can use the standard releases, not so much an issue for me now (just a bit goofy to ship a half-complete firmware)

Quote
dintid
EDIT: You MUST set baud rate to 115200 in both firmware and on TFT32 to make it Work correctly. If you use WIFI module you also MUST set it to 115200

No wifi. No configuration changed from defaults. The TFT32 is receiving updates from the SBASE on current temps, however it does not recognise when targets are changed over USB.

Quote
tomi01_2000
i'm not able to write a good firmware on the motherboard ....

I'm afraid that you'll need to provide more information if you are really seeking help here (although you seem to have already switched boards).

Anyway, the most obvious (and easiest to solve) issue with getting the Smoothieware firmware to update and work is to ensure that you have formatted your MicroSD card as FAT32 and not ExFAT. ExFat formatted cards do NOT work - and this is the default that most cards come with, so if you have not reformatted your card before putting the firmware on it, then this is quite likely to be the issue.

Quote
dintid
I'm having a curisou and very very annoying problem with my setup.

...

However, when I start printing both axes are making a lot of noise.. like shaking/grinding noise.. I once had a similar noise when my axes weren't Square, but that is not the case here.

Based on your earlier reply to me, I had the impression you had used the board quite extensively and successfully - was your printer working previously with the SBASE board, but has now stopped working with this issue?

Quote
zylantha

Quote
dintid
You are correct on not listing XYZ coordinates, but there is overview of temperature, fan and time printed. You do need to start print from the display though.

I do not print from the display - it's a display. I print from Octoprint on a Raspberry Pi 3 connected to the SBASE over USB.

There is no status window on the display to be found.

While I understand how it is annoying, it is not really a problem due to the TFT but due to your usage scenario.

It seems like you mostly use the display as,well, a display. If so, I'd have chosen a reprap discount or something similar.

TFT28/32 are small machines unto themselves and are inherently limited in how they communicate with the Sbase.

I picked the TFTs as I always start stop my prints from the screen and touch-screen makes it much easier. Doing it this way I always gets correct everything on the screen.

I'm just glad the XY isn't there.. just more clutter really.. try starting from the display and you will see how it change and looks really nice with fan going and everything

At first I had Discount display hooked up alongside the TFT, and leared how the data didn't update on TFT when issued from elsewhere... weare back to it being a computer onto itself now,where lots of communciation is issued by and controlled by the TFT.. start it elsewhere and you do not get anything on the TFT.

Firmware and such
It is really unclear when you talk about TFT, when you talk about Sbase and when you talk about Smoothieware.

Leveling and G29
I do know how it Works. I have had IR-sensor and such, but just don't use it anymore. I can't see how it is important to have on the display though. Especially since you only use it as a display and not as a command center?
I always put in G29 in my start gcode in my slizer.

Edit: Would I have liked data to be synchronzied both ways? YES!! I most certainly do, but I guess I can't get everything. Rigt now I'm just glad I have 2 relatively cheap very nice looking touch-screens for my printers instead of the other bulky, not very nice looking, alternatives

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/02/2016 09:37AM by dintid.

---

My Instructables - both total newbie instructables and some for intermediate users.
My Designs on Thingiverse
YouTube channel containing a few 3D printing videos - they are videos for my Instructables, and mostly not standalone.
Ultius / Tantillus Thingiverse Group

Quote
dintid
While I understand how it is annoying, it is not really a problem due to the TFT but due to your usage scenario.

It seems like you mostly use the display as,well, a display. If so, I'd have chosen a reprap discount or something similar.

I don't see how my usage scenario is particularly unusual or different from anyone else's, who prints over USB (which I'm sure most people do). I have printed regularly by saving to SD card and inserting that into my Marlin board (while I was having USB and reliability issues with Marlin-RC4 / RC5) - however I find that this gets tiresome and annoying very quickly; why would I transfer files by physically walking an SD card across the room, when I have both USB and gigabit ethernet connectivity from my PC to my printer? Sounds like the old days moving data between PCs using a floppy disk!

There are almost no discussions that I found in my research on the functionality, limitations, features, etc., of the TFT32 as an alternative to a RepRap display. The TFT32 is an obvious choice for anybody buying a SBASE, however people who are considering it need to understand - it is not comparable to a RepRap display (where what is displayed is totally dictated by the controller and is very mature, reliable, and full featured), and I think I've made that point clear.

Quote
dintid
TFT28/32 are small machines unto themselves and are inherently limited in how they communicate with the Sbase.

Sorry, but with respect - I completely disagree. They are absolutely not limited - they can issue any command they want, and obtain any status information they need, and put it on the screen in any way shape or form they like. If they can display the current actual temperature, then they can display the current target temperature.

For example, the M105 command returns:
Recv: T:217.3 /225.0 @255

There is no reason for the TFT32 to be unable to display the 225.0 as the target temperature, given it does display 217.3 as the current temperature - it's right there in the command response.

Quote
dintid
I picked the TFTs as I always start stop my prints from the screen and touch-screen makes it much easier. Doing it this way I always gets correct everything on the screen.

I think you are confusing "current status" with "expected status". I'd be surprised if print jobs initiated from the TFT display actual information as returned from the printer, or just display the current expected status based on the last issued command.

Part of the issue is the lack of error handling on the TFT32 - it will work completely ignorant of the SBASE being bricked with the original firmware, missing config, etc., which is not useful as a display while you are setting up the SBASE for the first time (it certainly did not help me when I was trying to figure out why my ExFAT-formatted SD card was not properly initiating a firmware update) ... Call me old fashioned, but when the SBASE experiences an error (like an improperly formatted SD card), I would have expected more information about that error to be shown on the TFT32.

Quote
dintid
I'm just glad the XY isn't there.. just more clutter really.. try starting from the display and you will see how it change and looks really nice with fan going and everything

Interesting that you are so concerned with clutter, given the amount of screen real estate there actually is to play with on a TFT32 (as compared with say, a 12864). A fan display would, to me, be more of a waste of space (something that could just be a single character really - and should be something that 'just worked' rather than something that needed to have an onscreen representation). I can understand the fan status to be a little more useful when it's controlling a PLA cooler but not so much for an E3D coldend fan to somebody who mainly prints ABS.

Quote
dintid
Leveling and G29
I do know how it Works. I have had IR-sensor and such, but just don't use it anymore. I can't see how it is important to have on the display though. Especially since you only use it as a display and not as a command center?
I always put in G29 in my start gcode in my slizer.

Note that my points regarding G29 autolevel support relate to the SBASE, not the TFT32.

Sorry but I'm confused. First you said you don't use autolevel and but rather do it manually - now you say you do use autolevel (G29) - which as I said does NOT work with the standard MKS firmware. G29 requires some form of Z-probe sensor - if you don't use the IR sensor, what are you using for the autolevel?

But separately, I'm also confused as to how you would actually do a manual bed leveling from the TFT32 ... since it does not display the current position of the head, how do you know where it is in order to issue the correct commands and reset the Zpos when you reach the correct endpoint? Or do you use Pronterface for this? In which case, the screen would be displaying the incorrect information (target temperature, etc. - you do heat up the print head and bed when you do your manual leveling, don't you?)

Quote
dintid
Edit: Would I have liked data to be synchronzied both ways? YES!! I most certainly do, but I guess I can't get everything. Rigt now I'm just glad I have 2 relatively cheap very nice looking touch-screens for my printers instead of the other bulky, not very nice looking, alternatives

Thanks for acknowledging my original point that the TFT32 display does not always display the correct status of the printer as known by the SBASE board. I too thought that the TFT32 was a nice, cheap device to match the SBASE instead of the 12864 (which is your only real alternative at a comparable price point), however the TFT32 does not replace the need for the standard RepRap display. I may actually end up with both.

Actually, I think that the TFT32 is quite unattractive. The available printable cases for it help - but there are no sensible mounts for them (yes I could create one myself eventually - but I've only been using it a week and aren't that committed to it). The case that I printed also has the wrong dimensions - and the TFT32 does not actually fit in it properly.

IMHO the best looking LCD is the Viki2 (admittedly not touch screen).

For a touch screen solution - I would go with a Raspberry Pi (Octoprint / Octopi) based system (comparable cost to the Viki2 but infinitely more features), or maybe even MatterControl (best looking turnkey touch screen, but expensive).

Back on topic: Some further observations after a few more days and prints with the board:

1. The 5V supply on the board is not very stable, its voltage started at ~4.5v and now dropped to less than that (lower than what my voltage/current meter will work at). It's still enough to drive the Raspberry Pi (~700mW) but I'm concerned about it and will need to get a separate supply (my first one died).
2. There are no current ratings published for the big / small MOSFETs like there are for the Smoothieboard circuits. I have assumed these are comparable (notably 11A for the bed circuit) but it would be nice to know for certain (perhaps from someone who can follow the schematics).
3. The board is working well from 24V (with 12V hot bed running at 147 duty cycle - still heats up at least 50% faster than it did on 13.8V). Steppers get very hot when run at 1.0A (they are rated at 1.3A) - I have dialled this down to 0.7A to keep the temps down.
4. Microsteps are also working well at 1/32 (default as shipped is 1/16). The print quality appears better with 1/32, with fewer delta imperfections / bumps - however I need to print more (and of the same model) to be sure.
5. I do plan to upgrade to a Diamond hotend once everything is printing more stable, which will require a separate external stepper driver, which will probably be driven from the thermocouple output (which conveniently has all the required outputs except for Vcc).

Quote
zylantha
IMHO the best looking LCD is the Viki2 (admittedly not touch screen).

For a touch screen solution - I would go with a Raspberry Pi (Octoprint / Octopi) based system (comparable cost to the Viki2 but infinitely more features), or maybe even MatterControl (best looking turnkey touch screen, but expensive).

Have you seen PanelDue? It's colour, touch sensitive, supports 4.3", 5" and 7" screens, handles up to 6 extruders, and includes an on-screen keyboard so you can enter any gcode command as well as providing all the usual facilities Support code for it in Smoothieware was started many months ago - I don't know why it is taking so long to finish.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I swapped my SBase out for a Duet to try it out and never switched back.

Anyone in the states need an SBase 1.2?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/02/2016 01:29PM by w3drk.

Me too, except mine was a SmoothieBoard 5XC

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dc42
Have you seen PanelDue? It's colour, touch sensitive, supports 4.3", 5" and 7" screens, handles up to 6 extruders, and includes an on-screen keyboard so you can enter any gcode command as well as providing all the usual facilities Support code for it in Smoothieware was started many months ago - I don't know why it is taking so long to finish.

Nice! It's not listed on the smoothieware panel pages so I missed it .. It looks like an independent LCD controller done right .. The designer must actually know what they're doing!

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zylantha

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dintid
While I understand how it is annoying, it is not really a problem due to the TFT but due to your usage scenario.

It seems like you mostly use the display as,well, a display. If so, I'd have chosen a reprap discount or something similar.

I don't see how my usage scenario is particularly unusual or different from anyone else's, who prints over USB (which I'm sure most people do). I have printed regularly by saving to SD card and inserting that into my Marlin board (while I was having USB and reliability issues with Marlin-RC4 / RC5) - however I find that this gets tiresome and annoying very quickly; why would I transfer files by physically walking an SD card across the room, when I have both USB and gigabit ethernet connectivity from my PC to my printer? Sounds like the old days moving data between PCs using a floppy disk!

I didn't say your usage scenario was abnormal. I just said your usage scenario doesn't seem to fit the TFT screens.

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zylanthe
TFT28/32 are small machines unto themselves and are inherently limited in how they communicate with the Sbase.

Sorry, but with respect - I completely disagree. They are absolutely not limited - they can issue any command they want, and obtain any status information they need, and put it on the screen in any way shape or form they like. If they can display the current actual temperature, then they can display the current target temperature.

For example, the M105 command returns:
Recv: T:217.3 /225.0 @255

There is no reason for the TFT32 to be unable to display the 225.0 as the target temperature, given it does display 217.3 as the current temperature - it's right there in the command response.

Well, you certainly miunderstood that one... when I said limited I meant how they are dependednt upon their own firmware which in turn communicate with the Controller.... lots of functionality just isn't there.
The way TFT Works just does not support your scenario as they do not update bidirectional.... can they do so? I don't know, but they don't and I doubht they are going to at this low Price.
We are back to usage scenario again here.

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dintid
I'm just glad the XY isn't there.. just more clutter really.. try starting from the display and you will see how it change and looks really nice with fan going and everything

Interesting that you are so concerned with clutter, given the amount of screen real estate there actually is to play with on a TFT32 (as compared with say, a 12864). A fan display would, to me, be more of a waste of space (something that could just be a single character really - and should be something that 'just worked' rather than something that needed to have an onscreen representation). I can understand the fan status to be a little more useful when it's controlling a PLA cooler but not so much for an E3D coldend fan to somebody who mainly prints ABS.

Quote

Clutter / real estate..
When I say clutter I meant irrelevant information moving around... I see you like the screen DC42 recommends.. I absolutely abhor it.... says something here about taste and what we expect it to be.
It would be nice if YOU could recognize that people have different needs. I said that I liked it, but you argument like I'm wrong and you are right.. have you considered we are both right, but you need a different display to fill your needs?

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dintid
Leveling and G29
I do know how it Works. I have had IR-sensor and such, but just don't use it anymore. I can't see how it is important to have on the display though. Especially since you only use it as a display and not as a command center?
I always put in G29 in my start gcode in my slizer.

Note that my points regarding G29 autolevel support relate to the SBASE, not the TFT32.

Sorry but I'm confused. First you said you don't use autolevel and but rather do it manually - now you say you do use autolevel (G29) - which as I said does NOT work with the standard MKS firmware. G29 requires some form of Z-probe sensor - if you don't use the IR sensor, what are you using for the autolevel?

No. I said I don't see the need for G29 on display. I did not say I didn't know what it was.. I find it completely useless on the screen.

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zylantha
Leveling and G29
But separately, I'm also confused as to how you would actually do a manual bed leveling from the TFT32 ... since it does not display the current position of the head, how do you know where it is in order to issue the correct commands and reset the Zpos when you reach the correct endpoint? Or do you use Pronterface for this? In which case, the screen would be displaying the incorrect information (target temperature, etc. - you do heat up the print head and bed when you do your manual leveling, don't you?)

I don't. You don't read what I say.. I never said I used my display for anything aside from starting the print.. in fact. I said I only used it for starting prints.
I use Pronterface/printrun when setting up my machine.. as I said.. my TFT is to START prints.. not setting up or controlling the printer in general.
I don't care at all what display shows when I configure my printer.. I configure it 1 time.. and it stays configured unless I disassemble it. If yours doesn't you might want to add in some struds to make it more rigid.

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dintid
Edit: Would I have liked data to be synchronzied both ways? YES!! I most certainly do, but I guess I can't get everything. Rigt now I'm just glad I have 2 relatively cheap very nice looking touch-screens for my printers instead of the other bulky, not very nice looking, alternatives

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zylanthe
Thanks for acknowledging my original point that the TFT32

Your point was very deeply hidden in hip-shot complaints where it was hard to figure out wheter you was angry at yourself for spending Money, at Sbase, TFT or firmware for one or the other.... you didn't ask someone (here) before making a huge judgemental post, which I find disturbing. You could have gotten lots of answers regarding the firmware at least.
Might even have asked before buying a new display when it is this important.. the Duet DC42 display is rather common knowledge and would fit you perfectly

Why do I care? Am I employed at MKS or something?
No, I do not have anything invested here.
I care because your post spewes a lot of confusing misunformation which is detrimental to this post.. you came up with a "review" of the TFT which ended up being a big whine on Smoothieware, TFT and Sbase all muddled up.

I tried to answer your questions. I know I might have been a bit negative, but I DID try to answer.. but instead of just chewing a bit on the answers I gave, you fired back at me...
A Word of wisdom: different people prefer different Things... I HATE octoprint.. I love AstroPrint. Do I use Raspberry to control? No, I HATE more than 1 box.. it's just extra fluff and not important to printing... LOTS of people feel differently, and I can live with it.. can you?

Anyway, I'm stopping now as it has gotten very negatively focused.
I tried to answer your questions and instead get forced into defending myself

Edits: my quotes were not workings

Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 05/03/2016 01:50AM by dintid.

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My Instructables - both total newbie instructables and some for intermediate users.
My Designs on Thingiverse
YouTube channel containing a few 3D printing videos - they are videos for my Instructables, and mostly not standalone.
Ultius / Tantillus Thingiverse Group

Guys, what about servo connection to the MKS SBase? It doesn't work properly. Maybe somebody could explain me what I did wrong?
I have connected servo using external power supply. But when I send M280 command to the printer, the servo always turns on the one and same position. It not depend on S value (between 5 and 10).
It is possible to connect servo or not in principle?

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zylantha

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tomi01_2000
i'm not able to write a good firmware on the motherboard ....

I'm afraid that you'll need to provide more information if you are really seeking help here (although you seem to have already switched boards).

Anyway, the most obvious (and easiest to solve) issue with getting the Smoothieware firmware to update and work is to ensure that you have formatted your MicroSD card as FAT32 and not ExFAT. ExFat formatted cards do NOT work - and this is the default that most cards come with, so if you have not reformatted your card before putting the firmware on it, then this is quite likely to be the issue.

new operation
Installing firmware - ...
file firmware.bin and config.txt in \MKS Sbase\MKS-SBASE-master\MKSSBase-firmware , copy to SD Card (FAT32).

The D7 lights up, shortly after D1 follows. D2, D3, D4 blinks and then D1,D4, D7 turns steady while D2 and D3 continues blinking.
At this point I could see the FIRMWARE.CUR file on the SD card

After restarting the printer, D2 and D3 blink
D4 do not blink or lit
D1 and D7 rest lit up and constant

I am trying to connect printer on computer using cable usb, and the computer it start to install the driver - automatically.
On Pronterface - i try to connect, and i have "connecting...". And even if i wait 10 min nothing's happened.

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tomi01_2000
I am trying to connect printer on computer using cable usb, and the computer it start to install the driver - automatically.
On Pronterface - i try to connect, and i have "connecting...". And even if i wait 10 min nothing's happened.

Do your printer has any reaction on commands which is sent from the display (axes moving, extruding etc)?

Quote
tomi01_2000
I am trying to connect printer on computer using cable usb, and the computer it start to install the driver - automatically.
On Pronterface - i try to connect, and i have "connecting...". And even if i wait 10 min nothing's happened.

Seems like you are using the wrong COM port.

You should check in Device Manager if using Windows Source: [technet.microsoft.com]
•At a command prompt, in the Start Search box, or in the Run box, type the following command:

mmc devmgmt.msc

Now look in "Ports (COM & LPT)

Find the one for your board and pick that in Pronterface

edits: spelling

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/03/2016 05:15AM by dintid.

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My Instructables - both total newbie instructables and some for intermediate users.
My Designs on Thingiverse
YouTube channel containing a few 3D printing videos - they are videos for my Instructables, and mostly not standalone.
Ultius / Tantillus Thingiverse Group

Quote
dintid

Quote
tomi01_2000
I am trying to connect printer on computer using cable usb, and the computer it start to install the driver - automatically.
On Pronterface - i try to connect, and i have "connecting...". And even if i wait 10 min nothing's happened.

Seems like you are using the wrong COM port.

You should check in Device Manager if using Windows Source: [technet.microsoft.com]
•At a command prompt, in the Start Search box, or in the Run box, type the following command:

mmc devmgmt.msc

Now look in "Ports (COM & LPT)

Find the one for your board and pick that in Pronterface

edits: spelling

this it's ok



and on pronterface i have com5


conecting ... that's all. Here it is the end

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/03/2016 07:12AM by tomi01_2000.

Quote
tomi01_2000

Quote
dintid

Quote
tomi01_2000
I am trying to connect printer on computer using cable usb, and the computer it start to install the driver - automatically.
On Pronterface - i try to connect, and i have "connecting...". And even if i wait 10 min nothing's happened.

Seems like you are using the wrong COM port.

You should check in Device Manager if using Windows Source: [technet.microsoft.com]
•At a command prompt, in the Start Search box, or in the Run box, type the following command:

mmc devmgmt.msc

Now look in "Ports (COM & LPT)

Find the one for your board and pick that in Pronterface

edits: spelling

this it's ok

and on pronterface i have com5

conecting ... that's all. Here it is the end

Have you setup firmware?
Or you can just put firmware.bin and a sample config.txt file on the SD Card and boot Sbase Card

You can not connect to the board untill you get some firmware on it.
Look at your SD Card and make sure you have a "firmware.cur" file on it after flashing it.

Edit: If you have flashed it and it seems you have connected it properly I would try a different PC and a different USB cable.. if the problem persists I'd say the Card is defective.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/03/2016 07:39AM by dintid.

---

My Instructables - both total newbie instructables and some for intermediate users.
My Designs on Thingiverse
YouTube channel containing a few 3D printing videos - they are videos for my Instructables, and mostly not standalone.
Ultius / Tantillus Thingiverse Group

Quote
dintid
Have you setup firmware?
Or you can just put firmware.bin and a sample config.txt file on the SD Card and boot Sbase Card

You can not connect to the board untill you get some firmware on it.
Look at your SD Card and make sure you have a "firmware.cur" file on it after flashing it.

Edit: If you have flashed it and it seems you have connected it properly I would try a different PC and a different USB cable.. if the problem persists I'd say the Card is defective.

i put it firmware.bin and config.txt from MKSSBase-firmware on the SD Card and boot on the printer
at the end, on the SD was firmware.cur + config.txt

The SD Card it is ok, i change it the usb cable ...
I will try tomorrow, on different computers, one on windows 10, and one on linux mint

Quote
tomi01_2000
i put it firmware.bin and config.txt from MKSSBase-firmware on the SD Card and boot on the printer
at the end, on the SD was firmware.cur + config.txt

The SD Card it is ok, i change it the usb cable ...
I will try tomorrow, on different computers, one on windows 10, and one on linux mint

Try to set uart0.baud_rate 250000 in your config file, and change it in the Pronterface.
Can you move axes using display?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/03/2016 08:08AM by Alexus12.