Cherry Pi III Is Available

Thanks Andy.

I have never got on with Pronterface to be honest, I remember having issues with it and my Ormerod. Once I switched to Daves firmware and the web interface, I never looked back.

I will maybe give Cura/Repetier Host a try and at some point down the road I may look at doing a custom web interface for the Smoothieboard.

As for the CP, it's at least printing, just needs some more tweaking.

(I did find another stupid error that I had made, and I probably shouldn't admit this, but I had assembled the mini v wheels incorrectly, I hadn't put the washer between the two bearings so they were binding when tightened. Now it's running smoother and quieter. )

Regards,

Les

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Pointy's Things
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Pointy
Thanks Andy.

I have never got on with Pronterface to be honest, I remember having issues with it and my Ormerod. Once I switched to Daves firmware and the web interface, I never looked back.

I will maybe give Cura/Repetier Host a try and at some point down the road I may look at doing a custom web interface for the Smoothieboard.

As for the CP, it's at least printing, just needs some more tweaking.

(I did find another stupid error that I had made, and I probably shouldn't admit this, but I had assembled the mini v wheels incorrectly, I hadn't put the washer between the two bearings so they were binding when tightened. Now it's running smoother and quieter. )

Regards,

Les

Oops but easy mistake to make as there is no instructions with them (I had just assembled a Shapeoko2 CNC Router that uses Grooved V Wheels and they assemble in the same way and there is instructions for them)

I have decided that I think my rods are a little short (And definitely not all the same length Think one at least had the Ball sit a little proud so is longer and throws the effector of at extremes.)

I did a very similar same thing when I first started using them. I bought just the delrin wheel from OpenBuilds as I had the bearings in stock. I tried to use a normal washer. It didn't work! I ended up buying the correct shim and spacer and all was well but it ended up costing me more than buying the kit in the first place due to shipping and customs costs. We live and learn! Glad you sorted it out.

I've just uploaded Rich Cattell's new 'testing' version of Marlin into one of my Cherry Pi builds. I took advantage of the fact that I now use an all metal hotend and a Mk3 aluminium build plate. I made a lead from a couple of croc clips. Clipped one to the hot end and one to the bed and the other ends went to the Z Min connector on my RAMPS. When the nozzle touches the bed the 'switch' closes. I successfully ran Rich's G30 A auto calibration routine and it was spot on.

I'm a great believer in the fact that once a delta is properly calibrated it shouldn't need auto bed leveling routines. Just the odd tweak to the Z height using M666 H should be all that's required.

It's saved me an hour or so of manual calibration too!

Andy

Hi Andy what all metal hotend do you use and do you have a modified holder for it .

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AndyCart
I did a very similar same thing when I first started using them. I bought just the delrin wheel from OpenBuilds as I had the bearings in stock. I tried to use a normal washer. It didn't work! I ended up buying the correct shim and spacer and all was well but it ended up costing me more than buying the kit in the first place due to shipping and customs costs. We live and learn! Glad you sorted it out.

I've just uploaded Rich Cattell's new 'testing' version of Marlin into one of my Cherry Pi builds. I took advantage of the fact that I now use an all metal hotend and a Mk3 aluminium build plate. I made a lead from a couple of croc clips. Clipped one to the hot end and one to the bed and the other ends went to the Z Min connector on my RAMPS. When the nozzle touches the bed the 'switch' closes. I successfully ran Rich's G30 A auto calibration routine and it was spot on.

I'm a great believer in the fact that once a delta is properly calibrated it shouldn't need auto bed leveling routines. Just the odd tweak to the Z height using M666 H should be all that's required.

It's saved me an hour or so of manual calibration too!

Andy

Andy

Did you know that OOZnest have the Openbuilds wheels in stock in the UK at £3 ea?

Smoothieware presents the on-board SD card as a USB drive over the printer's USB cable. You can save the sliced file from Cura or your slicer du jour directly to the printer's SD card, open Pronterface (or any other host program), and type "@play /sd/sliced-file.gcode" to kick off the print. (Pronterface requires the "@" sign to run Smoothie commands, other host programs do not.)

Given the ease of printing via SD card with Smoothieware (ie: not even needing to swap cards), there is no reason to be using Pronterface, Repetier, or any other host program to print .gcode files other than if you do not have an LCD and want to see the printing status.....

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mrorange26
Hi Andy what all metal hotend do you use and do you have a modified holder for it .

I use this hotend [www.aliexpress.com]

and this heated bed [www.aliexpress.com]

I'm very pleased with both of them

Will that fit on the standard cherry pi lll mount.

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mrorange26
Hi Andy what all metal hotend do you use and do you have a modified holder for it .

I've attached the .stl files for the new effector

EffectorForAllMetalHotEndV2.stl
E3DMountCapV2.stl
E3DMountBaseV2.stl

Andy

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mrorange26
Will that fit on the standard cherry pi lll mount.

The new effector is a drop in replacement for the Cherry Pi IIIS effector (the string and spring version)

Andy

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dougal1957

Andy

Did you know that OOZnest have the Openbuilds wheels in stock in the UK at £3 ea?

I didn't but I'll check them out. Thank you.

What do you use to attach the fan to it.

Also can you post a picture of it completely setup thanks.

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mrorange26
Also can you post a picture of it completely setup thanks.

Here it is :-

I will have to get some alu tube aswell then.

You will need three lengths of 6mm OD tube 30mm in length, 3 x M3 50mm screws and 3 x M3 nuts. You can get the tube on the screws and fixings isle in B&Q. It's about £3.00 for a 1M length.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/02/2015 02:16PM by AndyCart.

Thanks how did you mount the fan to it.

small dot of super glue

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- Sebastien Plante (nka)

Lol.

First part done.Bits ordered.

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nka
small dot of super glue

CA glue has historically been the secret sauce that holds the CP together.....

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AndyCart
and this heated bed [www.aliexpress.com]

What's the diameter of that heated bed Andy?

Regards,

Les

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Pointy's Things
Pointy's Blog

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Pointy

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AndyCart
and this heated bed [www.aliexpress.com]

What's the diameter of that heated bed Andy?

Regards,

Les

It's 220mm. It's good for PLA. Gets upto 60 or 70 quite quickly. I think you would need to run it at 24V for ABS. It only draws 4 to 5A at 12V (60W)

Do you need a fan for the alu fins and also a separate one to blow onto the plastic as it comes out.

ABS Help

Has anybody managed to print ABS with their cherry pi. I want to print the new all metal hot end mount and appear to be having issues with layers being a little bitty. I was wondering if people had used ABS and if so what there print settings might be.

I have tried temp at 240, bed 110 with the fan off but the layers don't appear very even.

Thanks

Matt

I printed 210c pla 80% infill 0.2 mm .came out fine.if you pm me email I can send you a picture of it.

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Matt,Wheatley
ABS Help

Has anybody managed to print ABS with their cherry pi. I want to print the new all metal hot end mount and appear to be having issues with layers being a little bitty. I was wondering if people had used ABS and if so what there print settings might be.

I have tried temp at 240, bed 110 with the fan off but the layers don't appear very even.

Thanks

Matt

Matt

Where are you I may be able to help you with some.?

Abs temps depend on the filament that you are using I normally print at 235 110 onto clean Kapton Tape (Cleaned with acetone) this however is not on a cherry pi I am still building my Larger slice of Pi.

A lot can also depend on the Hotend as well.

Doug

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mrorange26
Do you need a fan for the alu fins and also a separate one to blow onto the plastic as it comes out.

You definitely need a fan to cool the cold side of the hotend. My design doesn't allow for a part cooling fan but if you look further up the posts (Page 12) you will see a picture of 'Adalina the Singing Dragon' that I printed in PLA with this setup. Came out great.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/04/2015 07:18AM by AndyCart.

I print with ABS on mine. I have an E3D Mk6 all-metal hotend, and as Andy said, I keep the little hotend fan running all the time. I have slic3r make a 4mm brim to help hold it down, and use hairspray on glass as a print surface.

My temps are usually 90 degrees for the bed, 260 for the hotend.

I still use the print cooling fan as needed, but typically turn it way down since it's not as necessary as with PLA.

So will have to run another pair of cables for the all metal hot end as currently my fan goes on and off