Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

Has anyone here upgraded their electronics? If so, did it make a difference in print quality?

Yes the only real change would be setting delta radius and ignoring the smooth rod, carriage, and effector offset settings. As repetier fw uses delta radius vs the other three. Which I think is much easier to adjust.

Delta radius is typically in the 145ish range. Changing this value will effect the flatness of your prints.

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spiffcow
Has anyone here upgraded their electronics? If so, did it make a difference in print quality?

I finally went to a smoothiboard after using ramps for about 6 months. The difference in print quality for me was just better and easier calibration of the print bed. I use the bed leveling and grid compensation and have seen a good improvement over what I got using ramps and repetier fw.

I can also handle higher speed prints with less chance of the buffer running out. Configuration chances are extremely easy. Just make your changes in the config file on the board and hit the rest button and it's done.

I really like smoothieware (running it on my CoreXY) and I agree the configuration is nice. With my current setup I get the impression that it's a bit choppy WRT movements over the print bed. It wasn't as much of an issue before I switched to magnets, but now the occasional PETG burnt glob will have enough force to knock off an effector arm. I think the globs are occuring because it's not moving smoothly enough over the bed, which can be very problematic with PETG.

I have an extra that's destined for my MPCNC build, but if it can handle the print bed calibration better I might put it on my FT Kossel instead.

Originally I had upgraded my display to the bigger 12864 display which, while looks nice, caused me to have to print slower or I would get stutters in my printer. Too many calculations going on with the delta to handle the constant updates going on with the 12864 display.

I've since then upgraded one of my printers to use the Duet controller and the print quality is much better and faster. If you are inclined and have the money, the Duet, a 7" display, and the ir bed leveler are really nice additions.

@capacitor Do you still have a copy of your working Repetier firmware for the kossel 2020 rev b? i have tried several iterations of it and can not seem to get the Repetier firmware maker to output a working firmware file for my machine, either there are errors when compiling or it says the file is too large and doesn't leave enough space.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/22/2016 11:07PM by ProfessorBean.

If you are looking for a fun and exciting 3D printer to build that requires a bit more technical skill than our i3 kit this delta printer might be just what you are looking for. This delta style printer is constructed using 2020 extruded aluminum rails making it strong as well as aesthetically pleasing. This printer also comes with an auto level servo that will set a relative bed level without you making the physical adjustments to the bed. All in all this is a great kit and worth the time required for this slightly more demanding setup.

[www.3dprintersonlinestore.com]

So i went back to my non working 2020 kossel replaced the heatbrake with a pte lined one, reprinted the original sensor holder, and replaced a faulty power supply, moves much better now. I am setting up the calibration and working on the z-probe off set. position according to repitier is 100 x 100 y and 2 z. I am unable to move beyond 100 in x or y I can go negitive then move back though (i.e. I can go to 90 then move back to 100 etc.). It homes correctly and seems to be moving correctly but no clue why it will not move beyond the 100 in x or y. Any ideas?


When I hit home repitier is saying x 100, y 100, z 270.8

Went under printer shape andchanged end stop for x and y from max to zero now it is letting me move.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/07/2017 10:31PM by jasonsaffle13@gmail.com.

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thosmos

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Careless
So what is the general consensus on this Folger Tech 2020 Kit in its newest iteration with all the cool ALU parts?

Does it remain as one of the better Kossel un-assembled pre-packaged kits that comes with (almost) everything required?

I am thinking of purchasing. Definitely want a Kossel, and this one looks reasonably priced considering shipping and base price.

Lets remove past printing and tool-handling experience from the equation- is it a good buy, or good bye?

It's my first printer and I think it's generally a good kit. It's worth a lot to have everything provided for a first-timer like I am. Now that I've built it and learned more, I would instead build one from scratch if I were to do it again.

I think its biggest downsides are:

1. incorrect default configuration settings in their firmware - especially INVERT_X_DIR, INVERT_Y_DIR, INVERT_Z_DIR set to true which caused my printhead to slam and scrape across the printbed on first powerup as it tried to home for the first time.
2. incorrect details in the assembly manual - thermistors needed to plug into different spots on RAMPS board than specified in manual; told to cut bowden tube in half, but then it would have been too short
3. insufficient screws of specific sizes - I needed to make a few parts runs to the hardware store to get specific sizes
4. printed parts with lock nut holders failed to keep nuts from spinning - needed to use regular nuts since there's no room in the printed part to hold lock nut with needle nose pliers

But even with those issues, I'm glad I got it. It's a solid kit and great starting point for upgrading as one learns more. Also the fact that quite a few other people have them means there's more community to communicate with about issues and upgrades (for example, this guy's Youtube videos helped me discover the INVERT_X_DIR issue: [youtu.be], and this guy's assembly video would have helped me if I'd seen it before: [youtu.be])

Thomas

Your experiences and notes precisely match my building experience. I was pleased with the quality of the parts I got (The hot end will go as soon as I get anything to print.) After I slammed the print head into the bed I scratched my head and flipped all of the steppers, the text said one thing, the photo another, the text was mostly correct. But then the extruder stepper was reversed, so I put that one back in the original wiring orientation.
Sadly, I cut my Bowden tube in half, I complained to the company about the bad instruction and got a response, I hope to get a new tube from them, in the meantime patched it together with heat shrink tube and tape, we'll see how that works.

I agree with all four of your points and add a little more to point 2:
The manual details finding the Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER setting, but not what to do with it when you do find it. I hope it isn't super important...

I did watch a few videos on assembly, but I did not find them helpful since they didn't really show enough detail and breezed over the very points that I had questions about. The bummer of being a noob at something. Thanks for the pointers to those videos, even though I have mine built, I'll still look at them for nuance details.

A fellow named Dustin does tech support there and has been super helpful and fairly responsive to my extensive, pestering list of questions. I am nearly to the print stage after weeks of assembly time and a few hours of setup, tweak and calibration.

Fun!
DLC