Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

I have a roll of 3mm filament I bought by clicking the wrong dropdown. Anyone had experience with 3mm? Any gotchas?

I have parts ordered to convert to magnetic rod ends, so it will be easier to swap out the whole end effector to change from 1.75mm to 3mm. I'll probably mount another NEMA23 for the 3mm extruder and either configure it as a second extruder or just move the stepper cable when I need to switch sizes. Heck, might even go with a dual hotend setup...

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thevisad
Great post and good on finding that out. How and where did you locate the balls that were the proper size?

I went to local bearing supply houses till I found one that had them. The size is 3/32" which I though was weird since the rails where made in China. I’ve taken apart 5 slides now and on every one there was one bearing missing from each side. I'm not sure if the manufacturer was shorting a bearing on each one to save money or if they don't need to be completely filled for some reason.

BTW I am confident 3/32" is the correct size. I went so far as to buy bearings of slightly different sizes to see if bearing size was an issue and the rail only works with 3/32" bearings.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/01/2015 06:16PM by matthew900.

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llamatrails
Are you talking about the thin 1mm red end caps? Can we just remove them while they are still on the rails? Will the screws still hold the green sections in place?

This is a different part then the red caps, you want to keep those to help protect the bearings. You actually need to remove the slide from the guide rail to see it. I’ll post a picture later tonight of the part you need to remove.

Attached are the pictures of the bars I removed with red arrows pointing to them. In the picture of the slide you can see how bearings are missing. I also included a picture of the slide with bars removed before being reinstalled on the guide rail. Please note it will not just slide on without the bars. You must put something in the middle to hold the bearings in then slide it out as you slide in the guide rail.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/01/2015 10:19PM by matthew900.

My big thanks to
- jculver09
- dc42
- mmcginnis9272
for their interesting and helpful answers. In fact, your answers make me feel like to ask you even some more questions, especially about the expansion subject.

I am about to purchase the FT K 2020, but I confess, I am very afraid to do so. Previously, I made the big error to order a PrintrBot. Some parts didn't function, I was still way inside my warranty time, and received a replacement part. But it was not that part that was the cause of the failure of the vertical movement. That company requested me to send the printer back to them, and I fool did. Instead of repairing or replacing, they only said I should purchase a new printer. They also claimed they would have sent back my printer to me but I never could pick it up from the post office. Now my returned printer has "disappeared" - loss: 700 US$.

I am so afraid, to make the same or a similar experience with other 3D printer companies. Once one acts fraudulent, you find it hard to trust others just like that. In those 3D Printing groups on Facebook, there are even more people who made the same or similar experience with PrintrBot. I am afraid to encounter similar problems like you all here have, and not to get any solution. I cannot afford another big financial loss. I live in a Third World country, and so, income here is so much lower. To save 700 US$, took me almost 2 years...

I just want to make a good experience.

------------

Back to the subject. I sent a message to Dan of Folger Tech, and wait on his answer and will make the purchase then.

DC42, can you give me a list of the parts you exchanged with new ones? And where did you get those new parts? Please let me know, so I can order from the same locations. What is now your printing area size?

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Deguello
I bought this one from Amazon, but IR doesn't work with the mirrors I use for my build surface, so I didn't spend a lot of time on it. I eventually removed the autoprobe altogether and calibrated the endstops and radius.

41hH2T8XZYL.jpg

His IR-sensor is modulated though, plus uses 2 diodes at different height, and should work with any surface (except mirrors) there's even a video of him doing a autocalibration on glass-surface.

[youtu.be]

I haven't even put my kit together yet, I was so displeased with the rails, and the replacement rails I got, that I ordered some rails from igus (about 3 veeks delivery), but you know the thoughts of modding it never ends...
I've also glanced at this electronics kit from ebay: [www.ebay.com]

But I thought I could get it working with the shipped electronics first as I have constructed a few other mods that I need to print as well.
Where should one look for firmware for that electronics?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/02/2015 01:03AM by Koenig.

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Sven.L
DC42, can you give me a list of the parts you exchanged with new ones? And where did you get those new parts? Please let me know, so I can order from the same locations. What is now your printing area size?

I have published a blog entry about my large delta build at [miscsolutions.wordpress.com].

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

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Koenig

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Deguello
I bought this one from Amazon, but IR doesn't work with the mirrors I use for my build surface, so I didn't spend a lot of time on it. I eventually removed the autoprobe altogether and calibrated the endstops and radius.

41hH2T8XZYL.jpg

His IR-sensor is modulated though, plus uses 2 diodes at different height, and should work with any surface (except mirrors) there's even a video of him doing a autocalibration on glass-surface.

[youtu.be]

I haven't even put my kit together yet, I was so displeased with the rails, and the replacement rails I got, that I ordered some rails from igus (about 3 veeks delivery), but you know the thoughts of modding it never ends...
I've also glanced at this electronics kit from ebay: [www.ebay.com]

But I thought I could get it working with the shipped electronics first as I have constructed a few other mods that I need to print as well.
Where should one look for firmware for that electronics?

IMHO Don't even consider the Ramps-FD setup

There are several posts in the Ramps controll sub Forum re this the most recent being Ramps-FD

Plus you can get a DUET from Replikeo (This is what DC42 uses) for $79.99 DUET OK there is no LCD display as standard but you could use one of DC42's PaneDUE kits (They are superb) or just go with the Webinterface which is also Superb.

Doug

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dougal1957

IMHO Don't even consider the Ramps-FD setup

There are several posts in the Ramps controll sub Forum re this the most recent being Ramps-FD

Plus you can get a DUET from Replikeo (This is what DC42 uses) for $79.99 DUET OK there is no LCD display as standard but you could use one of DC42's PaneDUE kits (They are superb) or just go with the Webinterface which is also Superb.

Doug

I see.

I was actually looking at DUET at first but then I came across that other kit and thought it would be better, I sort of like the "modular way" it opens up for a more experimenting.

DC42: thanks, found it. Reading...

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matthew900
Attached are the pictures of the bars I removed with red arrows pointing to them. In the picture of the slide you can see how bearings are missing. I also included a picture of the slide with bars removed before being reinstalled on the guide rail. Please note it will not just slide on without the bars. You must put something in the middle to hold the bearings in then slide it out as you slide in the guide rail.

Thanks very much for your posts regarding the rails - and of cause the all important pictures. It would seem that you've cracked it! I've just finished cleaning and lubricating my own. Two weren't too bad but one was completely seized and took a good soak in gun oil for the slider to shift at all. I'm sure that it will come as no surprise that all three are missing one bearing on each side. The gun oil has made an unbelievable difference but although I'm quite happy with the results I'm not sure if I would describe them as butter smooth - sliding at speed yes but slowly no so much. And so, finally to my question and the point of this post, how easy is it to reinstall the sliders back on to the rails and how easy is it to damage them? Essentially what I'm thinking is do I stick or do I twist?

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rotten_carrot
Thanks very much for your posts regarding the rails - and of cause the all important pictures. It would seem that you've cracked it! I've just finished cleaning and lubricating my own. Two weren't too bad but one was completely seized and took a good soak in gun oil for the slider to shift at all. I'm sure that it will come as no surprise that all three are missing one bearing on each side. The gun oil has made an unbelievable difference but although I'm quite happy with the results I'm not sure if I would describe them as butter smooth - sliding at speed yes but slowly no so much. And so, finally to my question and the point of this post, how easy is it to reinstall the sliders back on to the rails and how easy is it to damage them? Essentially what I'm thinking is do I stick or do I twist?

There is not much risk of damage BUT the big risk is that if you don't hold in the bearings properly when sliding in the guide rail they will pop out and go everywhere. I ended up playing find the bearings after my first attempt. I used a piece of metal I had that was the width of the distance between the bearings that I then slid out as I slid in the guide rail.

Video demonstration on reassembling the rails, notice the back and forth movement as he is sliding the block into place. This helps push the bearings from the opposite direction, causing them to realign inside the track area.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opXEbcXlTDQ

I found this carriage loader on thingiverse, perhaps it could be useful. [www.thingiverse.com]

Your delayed unit might be a blessing in disguise. You have doctors figuring it out for you. So as a patient, you have less mistakes to worry about. I'm not saying I'm a doctor, but I sure have vested a lot of time putting it together, and some of my notes here should help. The Blomker's assembly guide is very helpful since Folgers is not ready with their guide yet.

---

Saved with Amazon entire purchase coupon code

Is this a really old post? The Folger manual has been done since February?

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Junestronger156
Your delayed unit might be a blessing in disguise. You have doctors figuring it out for you. So as a patient, you have less mistakes to worry about. I'm not saying I'm a doctor, but I sure have vested a lot of time putting it together, and some of my notes here should help. The Blomker's assembly guide is very helpful since Folgers is not ready with their guide yet.

I purchased the Folger Tech Kossel and I am beginning the assembly of the carbon rod ends. The rod ends seem to be quite stiff. Do they loosen up in use or do they need to be lubricated somehow? Thanks.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/05/2015 09:45AM by DonSz.

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DonSz
I purchased the Folger Tech Kossel and I am beginning the assembly of the carbon rod ends. The rod ends seem to be quite stiff. Do they loosen up in use or do they need to be lubricated somehow? Thanks.

I worked mine back and forth a lot to loosen them up. If you do lube them, just a partial drop on each and then work them.

Rick

I just posted some adjustable spool holder arms for our Kossel made from the "Spool holder that uses Emmet's gear bearing".
Adjustable spool holder arms for Emmet's gear bearing spool holder



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/05/2015 07:04PM by Wittmason.

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Wittmason
I just posted some adjustable spool holder arms for our Kossel made from the "Spool holder that uses Emmet's gear bearing".
Adjustable spool holder arms for Emmet's gear bearing spool holder

IMG_0876_preview_featured.JPG

Thank You for these, I hadnt seen that gear bearing spool holder before, and these will make it easy to use.

Also, your finished parts look really clean, what kind of post processing steps do you use?

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/06/2015 05:29PM by jculver09.

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bluesmike
Ok I have a weird issue that Im having a hard time figuring out. Small print jobs print fine but large print jobs the head lifts on one side of the job and stays about an inch above the bed. So lets say that the object is 180x50x20. The print job will start at y90,x-90 and start to move to y-90,x90 after the head passes y0,x0 it steadily lifts until it is about an inch off the bed at y-90,x90. I had removed the autolevel routine from the gcode before hand but have since added it back in. Im stumped!

Ok I never got this resolved. I recalibrated the printer and it will print small jobs fine. On large jobs it still lifts about 1" from the bed and thinks its printing fine. It does this with both stock firmware and TheVisads firmware. Any ideas on what to do next?

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bluesmike

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bluesmike
Ok I have a weird issue that Im having a hard time figuring out. Small print jobs print fine but large print jobs the head lifts on one side of the job and stays about an inch above the bed. So lets say that the object is 180x50x20. The print job will start at y90,x-90 and start to move to y-90,x90 after the head passes y0,x0 it steadily lifts until it is about an inch off the bed at y-90,x90. I had removed the autolevel routine from the gcode before hand but have since added it back in. Im stumped!

Ok I never got this resolved. I recalibrated the printer and it will print small jobs fine. On large jobs it still lifts about 1" from the bed and thinks its printing fine. It does this with both stock firmware and TheVisads firmware. Any ideas on what to do next?

Since small jobs are fine, when do you see the height increase start? Is the increase always when your piece is taller than X? Does it increase slowly or jump?

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llamatrails

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bluesmike

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bluesmike
Ok I have a weird issue that Im having a hard time figuring out. Small print jobs print fine but large print jobs the head lifts on one side of the job and stays about an inch above the bed. So lets say that the object is 180x50x20. The print job will start at y90,x-90 and start to move to y-90,x90 after the head passes y0,x0 it steadily lifts until it is about an inch off the bed at y-90,x90. I had removed the autolevel routine from the gcode before hand but have since added it back in. Im stumped!

Ok I never got this resolved. I recalibrated the printer and it will print small jobs fine. On large jobs it still lifts about 1" from the bed and thinks its printing fine. It does this with both stock firmware and TheVisads firmware. Any ideas on what to do next?

Since small jobs are fine, when do you see the height increase start? Is the increase always when your piece is taller than X? Does it increase slowly or jump?

I haven't measured but lets say I print a flat square that is 50X50 - it prints fine. If I try to print a flat square that is 100X100 it starts to lift as it traverses from y to x steadily. It doesn't seem to jump just slowly rises.

Have you checked your endstops, and adjusted for zero at the towers? I wouldn't think that would affect only one side . . . . almost sounds like a whacked auto level that got hung in EEPROM.

- Tim

which way does the heat break go? does the PTFE liner side face away or towards the nozzle?

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greggo
which way does the heat break go? does the PTFE liner side face away or towards the nozzle?

Mine originally disasembled with liner down and the metal chamfered end up (made sense to me as it would help to guide filament in). I chose to leave it this way as I only plan to print PLA before I will be upgrading to an e3d v6 sometime in the future. I just had it apart the other day and the liner looked fine, but my hotend never goes above 210 so YMMV.

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bluesmike


I haven't measured but lets say I print a flat square that is 50X50 - it prints fine. If I try to print a flat square that is 100X100 it starts to lift as it traverses from y to x steadily. It doesn't seem to jump just slowly rises.

It sounds like a very common problem in which your firmware is not tuned to your rod lengths.

I would issue a G28 to home the machine. Then manually bring the effector down to just above the plate in the middle of the plate. Measure the height above the plate. Then move the effector left,right, forward and back untill it is in front of each of the 3 towers. See if the effector slowly raises off the plate at each of these three locations. If it does, then your auto-level has nothing to do with this. You simply need to DECREASE the value of Delta_Smooth_Rod_Offset in the code and re-upload it to your printer, power it off and on and run this procedure over. This will RAISE the effector in the middle of the plate and LOWER the effector on the edges. Play with the number untill the effector is at the same height at all locations.
If the above test is level right off the bat, then run a G29 to level the plate and check the above procedure again. If it now raises up on any single location, you have a problem with your auto-level.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/08/2015 07:04AM by mmcginnis9272.

No need to power cycle - the upload already reset the Arduino. Just rehome and retest . . .

- Tim

ok - another newbie type question....

So I have my bed leveled and I can print flat (took some time and effort, but all is well). I have calibrated my extruder to make sure 100 mm asked for is 100 mm received. So now the last thing is I am trying to print out a 20 mm x 20 mm x 20 mm box and it is coming up 20.8 x 20.6 x 21.

Is the only place I have to tweak the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT in configuration.h file? I think the default is 84mm (189/2.25 with the 20 step gears). i was going to tweak these out a bit, but i was wondering if there is another spot to do it, or if there are multiple spots?

Are there any pros or cons to changing this?

Just wondering... I would think that if I got the rod lengths accurate and with some end stop tuning and the Delta smooth rod offset set correctly so that the print head moves evenly across the bed, that (with the default settings for the stepper motors) the calibration should just fall into place... but that wouldn't be any fun now would it?

Thanks again everyone!

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cislom

Is the only place I have to tweak the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT in configuration.h file? I think the default is 84mm (189/2.25 with the 20 step gears). i was going to tweak these out a bit, but i was wondering if there is another spot to do it, or if there are multiple spots?

Thanks again everyone!

It been up earlier in this thread that those values probably are wrong, 80 steps/mm is more correct with the 20 tooth pulleys.

EDIT: Here is another source for that: [reprap.org]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/08/2015 04:10PM by Koenig.