Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

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thevisad

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SlowFoot

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SmileySXT
I am looking to buy the Folger Tech Kossel 2020, what a great price. I think it is a great printer with quality parts, I would just like a little more build volume.

Has anyone taken the Folger Tech Kossel 2020 and expanded on the width and height by using larger 2020 beams?

Out of the kit you will only be able to use the printed parts (that are OK but not much more), the pulleys, the nut and bolts and the hot end. The motors are on the weak side, the metal corners have some issues, the rods are a bit thin and the electronics are on the brink to handle the printer. I would recommend to find a XL-kit or, probably better, source the parts your self. I also suspect that deltas, for the same accuracy, are harder to set up the bigger they are.
I also would like something bigger then the Kossel but I have not decided on what track to go, a larger delta, a H-bot or a portal printer. May be next year..........

Delta's pretty much are the same regardless of what size they are.

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thevisad

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SmileySXT
I am looking to buy the Folger Tech Kossel 2020, what a great price. I think it is a great printer with quality parts, I would just like a little more build volume.

Has anyone taken the Folger Tech Kossel 2020 and expanded on the width and height by using larger 2020 beams?

I would not suggest that you buy this to build another. You can buy the robotdigg corners, carraiges, effector, the profiles from Misumi, wheels and plates from openbuild, the duet from replikeo, the e3d v6 from e3d online, optical endstops, paneldue from dc42. A good size heat bed or heatbed + your aluminum or glass print surface. Your nuts and bolts and your t nuts and finally your wiring. That pretty much covers the cost of the printer right there. I can make your wiring as I have all of the wire and ends available, the wiring I use is top end shielded cabling.

You can see the Google sheets document I have been keeping up to date with the costs and part numbers associated with building your own version of this, with upgraded components here. So far the cost associated with the creation of your own, with good parts and not chinese knockoffs is 681$. This is a direct matched version ont he Folgertech size, since I did keep the same extrusion and did not replace that. So your extrusion part numbers would be different HFS5-2020-XXX where XXX is the MM length of your rails.

7acdeaff54.jpg

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cman8

Thevisad. what are the advantages of optical endstops?

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davidf01
So if we get optical endstops would it be a simple swap out with the current endstops or is there
a more complicated procedure to using optical endstops?

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llamatrails

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davidf01

RIck, thanks for your help.

I think we are getting someplace. I removed the hotend and extruded and it worked but not every time. I did get some skipping after the first extrude but not as bad as before.
I then removed everything up to the extruder including the teflon tube and it extruded just fine, no skipping. My teflon tube is stuck in the brass fitting because for some reason
the blue release part is not working so now I need to figure what it is I need to order to replace it. But if I attach the teflon tube to the extruder it feels tight but it does extrude with no skipping.
I changed my DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT to 95 and I'm getting close to the requested extruded amount but that is only through the teflon tube. I'm guessing I should attach it to the hotend
without the nozzle to see where it gets hung up. Does that sound about right to you?

What are the brass fittings called?

I've had the teflon tube stuck in the connector, it took holding down the blue ring and a lot of force to pull the tube out. The end of the tube may not be cut cleanly, I've seen some folks take a drill bit to bevel the inside edge. If the cut isn't clean, it could cause the filament to feed off center and hang.
Another thing is the PTFE sleeve inside the hotend may be hanging it or it isn't seated inside correctly. It should slide out. Take the nozzle off the hotend and make sure the path through it is clear.

When I heat up the hotend and pull out the filament, I can then take a piece of filament and push it back in with liquid filament coming out the nozzle. It should be that easy.

Rick

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davidf01

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llamatrails

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davidf01

RIck, thanks for your help.

I think we are getting someplace. I removed the hotend and extruded and it worked but not every time. I did get some skipping after the first extrude but not as bad as before.
I then removed everything up to the extruder including the teflon tube and it extruded just fine, no skipping. My teflon tube is stuck in the brass fitting because for some reason
the blue release part is not working so now I need to figure what it is I need to order to replace it. But if I attach the teflon tube to the extruder it feels tight but it does extrude with no skipping.
I changed my DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT to 95 and I'm getting close to the requested extruded amount but that is only through the teflon tube. I'm guessing I should attach it to the hotend
without the nozzle to see where it gets hung up. Does that sound about right to you?

What are the brass fittings called?

I've had the teflon tube stuck in the connector, it took holding down the blue ring and a lot of force to pull the tube out. The end of the tube may not be cut cleanly, I've seen some folks take a drill bit to bevel the inside edge. If the cut isn't clean, it could cause the filament to feed off center and hang.
Another thing is the PTFE sleeve inside the hotend may be hanging it or it isn't seated inside correctly. It should slide out. Take the nozzle off the hotend and make sure the path through it is clear.

When I heat up the hotend and pull out the filament, I can then take a piece of filament and push it back in with liquid filament coming out the nozzle. It should be that easy.

Rick

How tight should the teflon tube be around the filament? I'm still working on my extruder issue and notice that the filament does not move through the teflon tube that easy. I had to order a new brass fitting for the extruder
because the teflon tube is still stuck no matter what I do to get it out. Pressing the blue release does not work.

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cman8

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davidf01

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llamatrails

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davidf01

RIck, thanks for your help.

I think we are getting someplace. I removed the hotend and extruded and it worked but not every time. I did get some skipping after the first extrude but not as bad as before.
I then removed everything up to the extruder including the teflon tube and it extruded just fine, no skipping. My teflon tube is stuck in the brass fitting because for some reason
the blue release part is not working so now I need to figure what it is I need to order to replace it. But if I attach the teflon tube to the extruder it feels tight but it does extrude with no skipping.
I changed my DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT to 95 and I'm getting close to the requested extruded amount but that is only through the teflon tube. I'm guessing I should attach it to the hotend
without the nozzle to see where it gets hung up. Does that sound about right to you?

What are the brass fittings called?

I've had the teflon tube stuck in the connector, it took holding down the blue ring and a lot of force to pull the tube out. The end of the tube may not be cut cleanly, I've seen some folks take a drill bit to bevel the inside edge. If the cut isn't clean, it could cause the filament to feed off center and hang.
Another thing is the PTFE sleeve inside the hotend may be hanging it or it isn't seated inside correctly. It should slide out. Take the nozzle off the hotend and make sure the path through it is clear.

When I heat up the hotend and pull out the filament, I can then take a piece of filament and push it back in with liquid filament coming out the nozzle. It should be that easy.

Rick

How tight should the teflon tube be around the filament? I'm still working on my extruder issue and notice that the filament does not move through the teflon tube that easy. I had to order a new brass fitting for the extruder
because the teflon tube is still stuck no matter what I do to get it out. Pressing the blue release does not work.

I had this happen to me too. I think their fittings suck. I got a new one and works as it should.

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davidf01

How tight should the teflon tube be around the filament? I'm still working on my extruder issue and notice that the filament does not move through the teflon tube that easy. I had to order a new brass fitting for the extruder
because the teflon tube is still stuck no matter what I do to get it out. Pressing the blue release does not work.

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davidf01

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cman8

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davidf01

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llamatrails

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davidf01

RIck, thanks for your help.

I think we are getting someplace. I removed the hotend and extruded and it worked but not every time. I did get some skipping after the first extrude but not as bad as before.
I then removed everything up to the extruder including the teflon tube and it extruded just fine, no skipping. My teflon tube is stuck in the brass fitting because for some reason
the blue release part is not working so now I need to figure what it is I need to order to replace it. But if I attach the teflon tube to the extruder it feels tight but it does extrude with no skipping.
I changed my DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT to 95 and I'm getting close to the requested extruded amount but that is only through the teflon tube. I'm guessing I should attach it to the hotend
without the nozzle to see where it gets hung up. Does that sound about right to you?

What are the brass fittings called?

I've had the teflon tube stuck in the connector, it took holding down the blue ring and a lot of force to pull the tube out. The end of the tube may not be cut cleanly, I've seen some folks take a drill bit to bevel the inside edge. If the cut isn't clean, it could cause the filament to feed off center and hang.
Another thing is the PTFE sleeve inside the hotend may be hanging it or it isn't seated inside correctly. It should slide out. Take the nozzle off the hotend and make sure the path through it is clear.

When I heat up the hotend and pull out the filament, I can then take a piece of filament and push it back in with liquid filament coming out the nozzle. It should be that easy.

Rick

How tight should the teflon tube be around the filament? I'm still working on my extruder issue and notice that the filament does not move through the teflon tube that easy. I had to order a new brass fitting for the extruder
because the teflon tube is still stuck no matter what I do to get it out. Pressing the blue release does not work.

I had this happen to me too. I think their fittings suck. I got a new one and works as it should.

Cman8 do you remember where you bought yours?

Is anyone else getting a bad gateway error on this site lately?

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tadawson
I had a spool of Inland PLA that was off, and had lumps to 1.9-something mm, IIRC, and would jam. 8 others were fine, as was the replacement, but it *can* happen, and can produce some intense head scratching for a bit . . .

- Tim

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davidf01

I have the filament working well going through the extruder and down the tube. Now I have to test how it goes through
the brass fitting and through the hotend. I hope it flows through the hotend and PTFE ok. If it does not what can it be other then the PTFE tube?

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davidf01
I have the filament working well going through the extruder and down the tube. Now I have to test how it goes through
the brass fitting and through the hotend. I hope it flows through the hotend and PTFE ok. If it does not what can it be other then the PTFE tube?

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davidf01
I finally got my g29 auto level to work without crashing into the bed and got some numbers from it.
Does anyone know what the numbers mean and why do I get different numbers every time I run the G29 command?

Here is are the numbers from the last run I did.
SENDING:G29
0.475 0.475 0.475 0.550 0.588 0.588 0.588
0.350 0.350 0.513 0.475 0.625 0.600 0.600
0.175 0.325 0.412 0.475 0.575 0.550 0.425
0.137 0.237 0.325 0.450 0.500 0.537 0.362
-0.075 0.113 0.200 0.350 0.400 0.475 0.362
-0.037 -0.037 0.100 0.238 0.325 0.263 0.263
-0.062 -0.062 -0.062 0.050 0.188 0.188 0.188

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wrangellboy
Does anyone know the specs of the stock hot end thermister? I upgraded to duet and I'm pretty certain my hot end temperatures are reporting as quite a bit higher than they actually are (Printing pla at 215 and still getting bad layer adhesion, etc...).

I've been fiddling with different H and B values in my M305 command, but it would be nice to know the actual specs to just dial it in once and for all...

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wrangellboy
Does anyone know the specs of the stock hot end thermister? I upgraded to duet and I'm pretty certain my hot end temperatures are reporting as quite a bit higher than they actually are (Printing pla at 215 and still getting bad layer adhesion, etc...).

I've been fiddling with different H and B values in my M305 command, but it would be nice to know the actual specs to just dial it in once and for all...

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thevisad
In order to get the correct H value (yup it's very important, if gives you the correct room temp) then you need to use a rock solid resistor in the 100k and 10k ranges to get the H offset for your board. You can dial it in manually, but it's better to grab those perfect resistors to get the right value. I am trying to find the page where it went over exactly what the H value was (offset for room temp) and how to get it.

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Koenig

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thevisad
In order to get the correct H value (yup it's very important, if gives you the correct room temp) then you need to use a rock solid resistor in the 100k and 10k ranges to get the H offset for your board. You can dial it in manually, but it's better to grab those perfect resistors to get the right value. I am trying to find the page where it went over exactly what the H value was (offset for room temp) and how to get it.

It was dc42 who mentioned it, that you can just leave it at 0 if you don't want to go through the efforts of dialing it in, the important thing is the B-value so it gives the right readings around working temperature.
In retrospect I think I understand what he meant, there's just really no use of correct room temperature on your hotend

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thevisad

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Koenig

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thevisad
In order to get the correct H value (yup it's very important, if gives you the correct room temp) then you need to use a rock solid resistor in the 100k and 10k ranges to get the H offset for your board. You can dial it in manually, but it's better to grab those perfect resistors to get the right value. I am trying to find the page where it went over exactly what the H value was (offset for room temp) and how to get it.

It was dc42 who mentioned it, that you can just leave it at 0 if you don't want to go through the efforts of dialing it in, the important thing is the B-value so it gives the right readings around working temperature.
In retrospect I think I understand what he meant, there's just really no use of correct room temperature on your hotend

Yeah, I was not going to do it, but I have a difference of 3ish between the two ends. I tried doing an array of thermistors to try and get a better average across the hotbed, but that leaves a lot to be desired. So, I am going through this right now on mine, trying to dial it in now to finalize the last steps and make the bed as stable as possible.

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fattmann
What screw type did you use to attach the Z-probe switch to the servo? None of the hardware that came with my kit (Rev B ) will fit in the hole. All the hardware is far too large, and the servo hole doesn't have threads, and the manual doesn't even mention mounting it.

I was going to ignore the auto leveling until I got it going, but I cannot for the love of me get it to stop traveling in a convex fashion. The rod offset value doesn't seem to be any where in reason, and I haven't found any suggestions as to why not. I'm hoping the auto level will help.

Large_Servo_Mounting_Screws.jpg

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thevisad

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fattmann
What screw type did you use to attach the Z-probe switch to the servo? None of the hardware that came with my kit (Rev B ) will fit in the hole. All the hardware is far too large, and the servo hole doesn't have threads, and the manual doesn't even mention mounting it.

I was going to ignore the auto leveling until I got it going, but I cannot for the love of me get it to stop traveling in a convex fashion. The rod offset value doesn't seem to be any where in reason, and I haven't found any suggestions as to why not. I'm hoping the auto level will help.

Read this guide on how to solve the convex issue. Auto leveling will not help this issue, you need to correct the offsets properly. There should be a small screw with very large head compared to its body, looks like this

Large_Servo_Mounting_Screws.jpg