Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 12:44PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 171 |
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marc2912
Quote
markts
Quote
markts
Quote
markts
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sonnylowe
As far as printing a mount, once you find one you like you might be able to find a local printing service at 3Dhubs There are three with-in 20 miles of me
Many people here are using the E3D Hotends with the FT Direct Drive setup, so you should be able to get some advice, or maybe the search in my sig can find it for you!?!?
E3D now offers all their Hotend assembled, although I'm not sure Filastruder would have them yet!?!?
I would also be happy to print a mount for you and send it to you, I would just need to know which one you wanted...
Sonny
Thanks Sonny!
I took the plunge and ordered the E3D Lite6 kit from Filastruder - got the tracking number already (would be cool if it made it on Saturday, but that's wishful thinking). I'm hoping I can get the old hot end working enough to print animoose's mount for the E3D. It looks like that's all I need to get started? Then when I get it going I'll look into a fan mount. Thanks guys!
"Expected Delivery Day: Saturday, January 23, 2016"
Woo hoo! I've got some work to do to get the mount for it printed. It looks like the assembly of the hot end isn't insignificant either (I didn't see the assembled version Sonny).
Bugger. "Expected delivery" is still today but at last update it's still in Georgia.
Yeah that's USPS for you, FT does 2 day shipping and the post office lost it for a week for me. It's pretty shameful.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 01:52PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 80 |
Quote
marc2912
So I don't want to sound like a broken record but I'm getting some serious lift issues. Not just the corners lifting off the build bed but also lifting on edges higher up in the print. I've printed something where there is an overhang higher up (about 25mm high) and it build appropriate support, The support adhered to the print and when the corner started lifting there it ripped the support of the bed.
I am printing on a borosilicate glass plate.
I'm getting the bed itself up to 120C (mostly because I think I'm losing a bit during the heat transfer to the glass)
I've had better results when printing directly on the bed but the FT bed are warped and far from a level surface.
I've considered a raft but if an overhang 25mm up rips the support off the bed as they warp I don't see how a raft would fare any better.
This is my main issue as my prints are otherwise looking great.
Thanks
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 02:37PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 541 |
Quote
marc2912
Quote
markts
Quote
markts
Quote
markts
Quote
sonnylowe
As far as printing a mount, once you find one you like you might be able to find a local printing service at 3Dhubs There are three with-in 20 miles of me
Many people here are using the E3D Hotends with the FT Direct Drive setup, so you should be able to get some advice, or maybe the search in my sig can find it for you!?!?
E3D now offers all their Hotend assembled, although I'm not sure Filastruder would have them yet!?!?
I would also be happy to print a mount for you and send it to you, I would just need to know which one you wanted...
Sonny
Thanks Sonny!
I took the plunge and ordered the E3D Lite6 kit from Filastruder - got the tracking number already (would be cool if it made it on Saturday, but that's wishful thinking). I'm hoping I can get the old hot end working enough to print animoose's mount for the E3D. It looks like that's all I need to get started? Then when I get it going I'll look into a fan mount. Thanks guys!
"Expected Delivery Day: Saturday, January 23, 2016"
Woo hoo! I've got some work to do to get the mount for it printed. It looks like the assembly of the hot end isn't insignificant either (I didn't see the assembled version Sonny).
Bugger. "Expected delivery" is still today but at last update it's still in Georgia.
Yeah that's USPS for you, FT does 2 day shipping and the post office lost it for a week for me. It's pretty shameful.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 03:00PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Quote
marc2912
So I don't want to sound like a broken record but I'm getting some serious lift issues. Not just the corners lifting off the build bed but also lifting on edges higher up in the print. I've printed something where there is an overhang higher up (about 25mm high) and it build appropriate support, The support adhered to the print and when the corner started lifting there it ripped the support of the bed.
I am printing on a borosilicate glass plate.
I'm getting the bed itself up to 120C (mostly because I think I'm losing a bit during the heat transfer to the glass)
I've had better results when printing directly on the bed but the FT bed are warped and far from a level surface.
I've considered a raft but if an overhang 25mm up rips the support off the bed as they warp I don't see how a raft would fare any better.
This is my main issue as my prints are otherwise looking great.
Thanks
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 03:07PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 03:32PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 12 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 04:11PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 285 |
Quote
JustAGuy
Looking for some help troubleshooting my printing. I've attached a photo of the underside of the first 2 layers of a 20mm test cube. This is PLA extruded at 200C and a bed temp of 60 just because I've had trouble getting PLA to stick without heat.
Layer Height 0.2 mm
First Layer 0.35 mm
Perimeters 20 mm/sec
solid infill 20 mm/sec.
What do you see here?
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 04:20PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 541 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 05:13PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 12 |
Quote
Mach
Quote
JustAGuy
What do you see here?
Looks like under extrusion due to the extrusion multiplier being to low. Not sure if that is the problem, but considering that the second layer looks like it is having the same issue, that would be my best guess. I would also check to make sure that the proper nozzle orifice diameter is set.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 05:18PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 285 |
Quote
JustAGuy
I gotta tell ya Mach. Yer good. That was it. I had already calculated the proper extruder multiplier for my setup (113) but hadn't put it in my new profile yet.
Thanks!
Sam
Quote
Mach
Quote
JustAGuy
What do you see here?
Looks like under extrusion due to the extrusion multiplier being to low. Not sure if that is the problem, but considering that the second layer looks like it is having the same issue, that would be my best guess. I would also check to make sure that the proper nozzle orifice diameter is set.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 07:16PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 131 |
Quote
elkayem
Quote
marc2912
So I don't want to sound like a broken record but I'm getting some serious lift issues. Not just the corners lifting off the build bed but also lifting on edges higher up in the print. I've printed something where there is an overhang higher up (about 25mm high) and it build appropriate support, The support adhered to the print and when the corner started lifting there it ripped the support of the bed.
I am printing on a borosilicate glass plate.
I'm getting the bed itself up to 120C (mostly because I think I'm losing a bit during the heat transfer to the glass)
I've had better results when printing directly on the bed but the FT bed are warped and far from a level surface.
I've considered a raft but if an overhang 25mm up rips the support off the bed as they warp I don't see how a raft would fare any better.
This is my main issue as my prints are otherwise looking great.
Thanks
If you're setting your bed to 120, I assume you're printing ABS. Have you tried creating a cocktail of ABS dissolved in acetone, and spreading a thin layer on your bed with a q-tip? I had serious lifting problems, and once I started doing this, it fixed all my problems. I've heard wolfbite works pretty well too.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 07:20PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 131 |
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
marc2912
So I don't want to sound like a broken record but I'm getting some serious lift issues. Not just the corners lifting off the build bed but also lifting on edges higher up in the print. I've printed something where there is an overhang higher up (about 25mm high) and it build appropriate support, The support adhered to the print and when the corner started lifting there it ripped the support of the bed.
I am printing on a borosilicate glass plate.
I'm getting the bed itself up to 120C (mostly because I think I'm losing a bit during the heat transfer to the glass)
I've had better results when printing directly on the bed but the FT bed are warped and far from a level surface.
I've considered a raft but if an overhang 25mm up rips the support off the bed as they warp I don't see how a raft would fare any better.
This is my main issue as my prints are otherwise looking great.
Thanks
Check out the two guides below (also posted on the Wikia Page), they may help with your issue. I print on the same glass, 80C with Glue Stick...I have no real lifting issues...maybe your filament temp is a bit too high!?!?
S3D Guide
Ultimaker
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 07:55PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 93 |
Quote
tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.
In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.
In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.
Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??
Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 10:26PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Quote
Bert3D
Quote
tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.
In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.
In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.
Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??
Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.
If you are using 1.1.0-RC3, be sure to set the motherboard type to BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or the servo won't work due to a pin conflict.
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB
Also 4*60 is the default homing rate for 1.1.0-RC3, I think, so no change will be necessary there.
You can get a copy of my Configuration.h file for 1.1.0-RC3 here:
[www.thetechwizard.us]
It is for a x-endstop on the left, and stock extruder.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 10:45PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 541 |
Quote
Bert3D
Quote
tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.
In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.
In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.
Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??
Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.
If you are using 1.1.0-RC3, be sure to set the motherboard type to BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or the servo won't work due to a pin conflict.
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB
Also 4*60 is the default homing rate for 1.1.0-RC3, I think, so no change will be necessary there.
You can get a copy of my Configuration.h file for 1.1.0-RC3 here:
[www.thetechwizard.us]
It is for a x-endstop on the left, and stock extruder.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 10:48PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 13 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 10:52PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 541 |
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
Bert3D
Quote
tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.
In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.
In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.
Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??
Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.
If you are using 1.1.0-RC3, be sure to set the motherboard type to BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or the servo won't work due to a pin conflict.
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB
Also 4*60 is the default homing rate for 1.1.0-RC3, I think, so no change will be necessary there.
You can get a copy of my Configuration.h file for 1.1.0-RC3 here:
[www.thetechwizard.us]
It is for a x-endstop on the left, and stock extruder.
The instruction on Wikia were based on 1.1.0RC2, which is the firmware I'm running. I have changed the wikia page to reflect this. I'm not sure what version therippa is running!?!? If it is in fact RC3 we must all keep in mind the following statement on github...
Release Candidate -- Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015
"Not for production use – use with caution!"
To honest I'm not familiar enough with Marlin to know exactly what that means, nor whether it really matters or not. But it seems to me to be indicating it is a living firmware, that can be changed at anytime!?!?
That's the reason I pick RC2, it was latest so called released version I could find.
Maybe once rippa forks it, his version doesn't change, again, I don't know, but I'm sure rippa can clarify.
I also changed the note referring to the speed change, it was only necessary if you were having issues between probing (alarm) which I was having and I believe only related to the Yellow version!?!? It was one of those things that took me literally days to figure out, so I wanted to bring it to light to maybe same other some time...
The motherboard changes Bert recommend did not apply to RC2, at least not for me, my motherboard is MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB (note: EEB is require over EFB for dual extruders).
tjnamtiw,
As far as the racketing, I never experienced it with my Z setup (8mm Lead Screws Igus bearings) running between probes at 4*60 (hell I even ran them at 4*100 for a while, but it was scary fast...still worked though), so I'm not sure what's going on there. If you're running lead screws there might be a bit of an alignment issues or binding you simply don't see at lower speeds, if you're still running the M5 allthread that very well might be it!?!? But if it's working now at 50 I would leave it there.
Thanks for bringing this up, the Wikia needs to be proofed by everyone so we can catch these errors and the instruction that might make since to some of use but not explained well enough for everyone to get it. It always sounds good in the author head when he's writing it, but that doesn't mean it's written well LOL
It sounds like you used the Wikia guide to get the BLtouch setup, if so please let me know what you think and how we can improve it...
Edit: This reply is a prime example of how easy it is to make mistakes when writing (or at least for me)...I just reread it and found two types
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 11:04PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 93 |
Quote
Marlin Readme
Release Candidate -- Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015
Not for production use – use with caution!
Previously tagged versions of Marlin are not recommended. However, the latest patches to the Marlin 1.0 series can be found in the 1.0.x branch.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 11:16PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 285 |
Quote
nightpanda2810
Anyone know if these will work with the rest of the out of box parts?
[www.thingiverse.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 23, 2016 11:30PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 314 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 24, 2016 02:34AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 25 |
Quote
sonnylowe
This
Equals This
Which in turn Equals This
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 24, 2016 09:59AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 16 |
Quote
tjnamtiw
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
Bert3D
Quote
tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.
In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.
In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.
Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??
Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.
If you are using 1.1.0-RC3, be sure to set the motherboard type to BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or the servo won't work due to a pin conflict.
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB
Also 4*60 is the default homing rate for 1.1.0-RC3, I think, so no change will be necessary there.
You can get a copy of my Configuration.h file for 1.1.0-RC3 here:
[www.thetechwizard.us]
It is for a x-endstop on the left, and stock extruder.
The instruction on Wikia were based on 1.1.0RC2, which is the firmware I'm running. I have changed the wikia page to reflect this. I'm not sure what version therippa is running!?!? If it is in fact RC3 we must all keep in mind the following statement on github...
Release Candidate -- Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015
"Not for production use – use with caution!"
To honest I'm not familiar enough with Marlin to know exactly what that means, nor whether it really matters or not. But it seems to me to be indicating it is a living firmware, that can be changed at anytime!?!?
That's the reason I pick RC2, it was latest so called released version I could find.
Maybe once rippa forks it, his version doesn't change, again, I don't know, but I'm sure rippa can clarify.
I also changed the note referring to the speed change, it was only necessary if you were having issues between probing (alarm) which I was having and I believe only related to the Yellow version!?!? It was one of those things that took me literally days to figure out, so I wanted to bring it to light to maybe same other some time...
The motherboard changes Bert recommend did not apply to RC2, at least not for me, my motherboard is MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB (note: EEB is require over EFB for dual extruders).
tjnamtiw,
As far as the racketing, I never experienced it with my Z setup (8mm Lead Screws Igus bearings) running between probes at 4*60 (hell I even ran them at 4*100 for a while, but it was scary fast...still worked though), so I'm not sure what's going on there. If you're running lead screws there might be a bit of an alignment issues or binding you simply don't see at lower speeds, if you're still running the M5 allthread that very well might be it!?!? But if it's working now at 50 I would leave it there.
Thanks for bringing this up, the Wikia needs to be proofed by everyone so we can catch these errors and the instruction that might make since to some of use but not explained well enough for everyone to get it. It always sounds good in the author head when he's writing it, but that doesn't mean it's written well LOL
It sounds like you used the Wikia guide to get the BLtouch setup, if so please let me know what you think and how we can improve it...
Edit: This reply is a prime example of how easy it is to make mistakes when writing (or at least for me)...I just reread it and found two types
Thanks, Sonny. Yep, you're the reason I'm set up for the RC2 version. I remembered that you said it performed the best for the BLTouch. I'm still running the threaded rod and will have to look into why I was getting all the skipping. I had everything miked so both sides are identically high as well as parallel. I also have moly antisieze on the threaded rod to slow down wear. I can't imagine how fast lead screws must be moving the Z axis at 240!!! I'll go up slowly once I have things sorted out.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 24, 2016 11:02AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 541 |
Quote
rollinns
Quote
tjnamtiw
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
Bert3D
Quote
tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.
In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.
In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.
Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??
Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.
If you are using 1.1.0-RC3, be sure to set the motherboard type to BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or the servo won't work due to a pin conflict.
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB
Also 4*60 is the default homing rate for 1.1.0-RC3, I think, so no change will be necessary there.
You can get a copy of my Configuration.h file for 1.1.0-RC3 here:
[www.thetechwizard.us]
It is for a x-endstop on the left, and stock extruder.
The instruction on Wikia were based on 1.1.0RC2, which is the firmware I'm running. I have changed the wikia page to reflect this. I'm not sure what version therippa is running!?!? If it is in fact RC3 we must all keep in mind the following statement on github...
Release Candidate -- Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015
"Not for production use – use with caution!"
To honest I'm not familiar enough with Marlin to know exactly what that means, nor whether it really matters or not. But it seems to me to be indicating it is a living firmware, that can be changed at anytime!?!?
That's the reason I pick RC2, it was latest so called released version I could find.
Maybe once rippa forks it, his version doesn't change, again, I don't know, but I'm sure rippa can clarify.
I also changed the note referring to the speed change, it was only necessary if you were having issues between probing (alarm) which I was having and I believe only related to the Yellow version!?!? It was one of those things that took me literally days to figure out, so I wanted to bring it to light to maybe same other some time...
The motherboard changes Bert recommend did not apply to RC2, at least not for me, my motherboard is MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB (note: EEB is require over EFB for dual extruders).
tjnamtiw,
As far as the racketing, I never experienced it with my Z setup (8mm Lead Screws Igus bearings) running between probes at 4*60 (hell I even ran them at 4*100 for a while, but it was scary fast...still worked though), so I'm not sure what's going on there. If you're running lead screws there might be a bit of an alignment issues or binding you simply don't see at lower speeds, if you're still running the M5 allthread that very well might be it!?!? But if it's working now at 50 I would leave it there.
Thanks for bringing this up, the Wikia needs to be proofed by everyone so we can catch these errors and the instruction that might make since to some of use but not explained well enough for everyone to get it. It always sounds good in the author head when he's writing it, but that doesn't mean it's written well LOL
It sounds like you used the Wikia guide to get the BLtouch setup, if so please let me know what you think and how we can improve it...
Edit: This reply is a prime example of how easy it is to make mistakes when writing (or at least for me)...I just reread it and found two types
Thanks, Sonny. Yep, you're the reason I'm set up for the RC2 version. I remembered that you said it performed the best for the BLTouch. I'm still running the threaded rod and will have to look into why I was getting all the skipping. I had everything miked so both sides are identically high as well as parallel. I also have moly antisieze on the threaded rod to slow down wear. I can't imagine how fast lead screws must be moving the Z axis at 240!!! I'll go up slowly once I have things sorted out.
I had this same problem, I believe it's a resonance issue. For me it went away at 8*60, but that was too fast, It was also gone at 3*60. I'm not sure if the bltouch needs faster speeds than 3*60, but that's where mine is now and the steppers are now longer going crazy. I'm also still running the threaded rods until i can get more consistency with some other parts i recently replaced, then I plan to print all the parts to do step 1 of a 3 part massive upgrade.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 24, 2016 03:37PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Quote
tjnamtiw
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rollinns
Quote
tjnamtiw
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sonnylowe
Quote
Bert3D
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tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.
In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.
In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.
Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??
Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.
If you are using 1.1.0-RC3, be sure to set the motherboard type to BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or the servo won't work due to a pin conflict.
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB
Also 4*60 is the default homing rate for 1.1.0-RC3, I think, so no change will be necessary there.
You can get a copy of my Configuration.h file for 1.1.0-RC3 here:
[www.thetechwizard.us]
It is for a x-endstop on the left, and stock extruder.
The instruction on Wikia were based on 1.1.0RC2, which is the firmware I'm running. I have changed the wikia page to reflect this. I'm not sure what version therippa is running!?!? If it is in fact RC3 we must all keep in mind the following statement on github...
Release Candidate -- Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015
"Not for production use – use with caution!"
To honest I'm not familiar enough with Marlin to know exactly what that means, nor whether it really matters or not. But it seems to me to be indicating it is a living firmware, that can be changed at anytime!?!?
That's the reason I pick RC2, it was latest so called released version I could find.
Maybe once rippa forks it, his version doesn't change, again, I don't know, but I'm sure rippa can clarify.
I also changed the note referring to the speed change, it was only necessary if you were having issues between probing (alarm) which I was having and I believe only related to the Yellow version!?!? It was one of those things that took me literally days to figure out, so I wanted to bring it to light to maybe same other some time...
The motherboard changes Bert recommend did not apply to RC2, at least not for me, my motherboard is MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB (note: EEB is require over EFB for dual extruders).
tjnamtiw,
As far as the racketing, I never experienced it with my Z setup (8mm Lead Screws Igus bearings) running between probes at 4*60 (hell I even ran them at 4*100 for a while, but it was scary fast...still worked though), so I'm not sure what's going on there. If you're running lead screws there might be a bit of an alignment issues or binding you simply don't see at lower speeds, if you're still running the M5 allthread that very well might be it!?!? But if it's working now at 50 I would leave it there.
Thanks for bringing this up, the Wikia needs to be proofed by everyone so we can catch these errors and the instruction that might make since to some of use but not explained well enough for everyone to get it. It always sounds good in the author head when he's writing it, but that doesn't mean it's written well LOL
It sounds like you used the Wikia guide to get the BLtouch setup, if so please let me know what you think and how we can improve it...
Edit: This reply is a prime example of how easy it is to make mistakes when writing (or at least for me)...I just reread it and found two types
Thanks, Sonny. Yep, you're the reason I'm set up for the RC2 version. I remembered that you said it performed the best for the BLTouch. I'm still running the threaded rod and will have to look into why I was getting all the skipping. I had everything miked so both sides are identically high as well as parallel. I also have moly antisieze on the threaded rod to slow down wear. I can't imagine how fast lead screws must be moving the Z axis at 240!!! I'll go up slowly once I have things sorted out.
I had this same problem, I believe it's a resonance issue. For me it went away at 8*60, but that was too fast, It was also gone at 3*60. I'm not sure if the bltouch needs faster speeds than 3*60, but that's where mine is now and the steppers are now longer going crazy. I'm also still running the threaded rods until i can get more consistency with some other parts i recently replaced, then I plan to print all the parts to do step 1 of a 3 part massive upgrade.
Thanks! I'll try that today, hopefully.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 24, 2016 03:43PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Quote
Bert3D
It is my understanding that 1.1.0-RC3 is recommended over earlier versions of the 1.1 branch, despite the disclaimer. In fact, right after the disclaimer, is a line saying earlier versions of Marlin are not recommended, as I highlighted below.
1.1.0-RC3 is working well for me, other than the change to how they handle the motherboard type, which caught me by surprise, and made my servo stop working. Since BLTouch uses the servo signal also, I assume it will need the same change when you go to RC3 or the final released version of 1.1 once it comes out. If you are using a proximity sensor that doesn't need the servo signal, it probably would not matter.
Quote
Marlin Readme
Release Candidate -- Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015
Not for production use – use with caution!
Previously tagged versions of Marlin are not recommended. However, the latest patches to the Marlin 1.0 series can be found in the 1.0.x branch.
The config I posted is for the single stock extruder, with the x-endstop on the left, and servo auto level, and lead screw on the z axis. It should be close to what the BLTouch needs, other than the z probe offsets and maybe servo angles, but I expect it is unlikely that anyone would have the exact same z-probe offsets. There is too much possible variance in how the extruder and probe can be mounted, even if you are using the exact same extruder, throat, nozzle, probes and mounts.
This is what makes having a "standard config" on the wiki harder.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 24, 2016 04:12PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 131 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 24, 2016 06:00PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 367 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 24, 2016 06:11PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 430 |
Quote
animoose
I swapped out my E3D lite6 for a full E3D today. I was having problems with the E3D lite - the extruder kept clicking and losing steps, and this was because something was not letting the filament flow freely. I'm not sure if it was that the top of the PTFE tube had a slightly ragged edge of whether there was deposited plastic inside. I tried cleaning it out a month or so ago and there was a ton of plastic buried inside it then. The problems was showing up as more and more under extrusion. The full E3D seems nicer and hopefully won't be as prone to the same problems. In retrospect, it was a false economy to buy the lite version.
Before and after pictures of the same object, showing the under extrusion: [goo.gl]
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 24, 2016 06:26PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 314 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 24, 2016 06:36PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 276 |
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
Bert3D
Quote
tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.
In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.
In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.
Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??
Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.
If you are using 1.1.0-RC3, be sure to set the motherboard type to BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or the servo won't work due to a pin conflict.
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB
Also 4*60 is the default homing rate for 1.1.0-RC3, I think, so no change will be necessary there.
You can get a copy of my Configuration.h file for 1.1.0-RC3 here:
[www.thetechwizard.us]
It is for a x-endstop on the left, and stock extruder.
The instruction on Wikia were based on 1.1.0RC2, which is the firmware I'm running. I have changed the wikia page to reflect this. I'm not sure what version therippa is running!?!? If it is in fact RC3 we must all keep in mind the following statement on github...
Release Candidate -- Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015
"Not for production use – use with caution!"
To honest I'm not familiar enough with Marlin to know exactly what that means, nor whether it really matters or not. But it seems to me to be indicating it is a living firmware, that can be changed at anytime!?!?
That's the reason I pick RC2, it was latest so called released version I could find.
Maybe once rippa forks it, his version doesn't change, again, I don't know, but I'm sure rippa can clarify.
I also changed the note referring to the speed change, it was only necessary if you were having issues between probing (alarm) which I was having and I believe only related to the Yellow version!?!? It was one of those things that took me literally days to figure out, so I wanted to bring it to light to maybe same other some time...
The motherboard changes Bert recommend did not apply to RC2, at least not for me, my motherboard is MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB (note: EEB is require over EFB for dual extruders).
tjnamtiw,
As far as the racketing, I never experienced it with my Z setup (8mm Lead Screws Igus bearings) running between probes at 4*60 (hell I even ran them at 4*100 for a while, but it was scary fast...still worked though), so I'm not sure what's going on there. If you're running lead screws there might be a bit of an alignment issues or binding you simply don't see at lower speeds, if you're still running the M5 allthread that very well might be it!?!? But if it's working now at 50 I would leave it there.
Thanks for bringing this up, the Wikia needs to be proofed by everyone so we can catch these errors and the instruction that might make since to some of use but not explained well enough for everyone to get it. It always sounds good in the author head when he's writing it, but that doesn't mean it's written well LOL
It sounds like you used the Wikia guide to get the BLtouch setup, if so please let me know what you think and how we can improve it...
Edit: This reply is a prime example of how easy it is to make mistakes when writing (or at least for me)...I just reread it and found two types