Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 24, 2016 07:04PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 541 |
Quote
therippa
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
Bert3D
Quote
tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.
In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.
In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.
Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??
Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.
If you are using 1.1.0-RC3, be sure to set the motherboard type to BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or the servo won't work due to a pin conflict.
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB
Also 4*60 is the default homing rate for 1.1.0-RC3, I think, so no change will be necessary there.
You can get a copy of my Configuration.h file for 1.1.0-RC3 here:
[www.thetechwizard.us]
It is for a x-endstop on the left, and stock extruder.
The instruction on Wikia were based on 1.1.0RC2, which is the firmware I'm running. I have changed the wikia page to reflect this. I'm not sure what version therippa is running!?!? If it is in fact RC3 we must all keep in mind the following statement on github...
Release Candidate -- Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015
"Not for production use – use with caution!"
To honest I'm not familiar enough with Marlin to know exactly what that means, nor whether it really matters or not. But it seems to me to be indicating it is a living firmware, that can be changed at anytime!?!?
That's the reason I pick RC2, it was latest so called released version I could find.
Maybe once rippa forks it, his version doesn't change, again, I don't know, but I'm sure rippa can clarify.
I also changed the note referring to the speed change, it was only necessary if you were having issues between probing (alarm) which I was having and I believe only related to the Yellow version!?!? It was one of those things that took me literally days to figure out, so I wanted to bring it to light to maybe same other some time...
The motherboard changes Bert recommend did not apply to RC2, at least not for me, my motherboard is MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB (note: EEB is require over EFB for dual extruders).
tjnamtiw,
As far as the racketing, I never experienced it with my Z setup (8mm Lead Screws Igus bearings) running between probes at 4*60 (hell I even ran them at 4*100 for a while, but it was scary fast...still worked though), so I'm not sure what's going on there. If you're running lead screws there might be a bit of an alignment issues or binding you simply don't see at lower speeds, if you're still running the M5 allthread that very well might be it!?!? But if it's working now at 50 I would leave it there.
Thanks for bringing this up, the Wikia needs to be proofed by everyone so we can catch these errors and the instruction that might make since to some of use but not explained well enough for everyone to get it. It always sounds good in the author head when he's writing it, but that doesn't mean it's written well LOL
It sounds like you used the Wikia guide to get the BLtouch setup, if so please let me know what you think and how we can improve it...
Edit: This reply is a prime example of how easy it is to make mistakes when writing (or at least for me)...I just reread it and found two types
You should be using the RC3 version, they fixed a bunch of bugs in it and it is more stable than RC2. They give that disclaimer for all of the release candidates, it just means "we aren't sure we've worked all of the kinks out, use with caution". I've been running RC3 since it came out in early December with no issues.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 24, 2016 07:10PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Quote
jabu32
Quote
sonnylowe
This
Equals This
Which in turn Equals This
what are the parts for?
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 24, 2016 07:16PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 314 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 24, 2016 07:39PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Quote
tjnamtiw
Quote
therippa
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
Bert3D
Quote
tjnamtiw
I put this message in a separate message rather than put it where everyone hangs out.
In preparation for my installation of the BLTouch probe for ABL, I moved the X end stop, made the appropriate changes, and tested to be sure everything was OK. Now I loaded Marlin's 1.1.0 RC2 and changed what needed to be changed but upon homing, X and Y both went correctly and Z went toward home but both Z steppers went nuts making racket, which I assumed was skipping steps. I saw in config.h "#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)". In therippa's version and my old version, the Z feedrate was set at 50, no 240, so I changed that to 50 and all was good. Before making that change, however, even if I RAISED the Z axis, it made that racket. I'm not sure if there is somewhere else that sets Z axis speed very high.
In any event, in the new Wikia, where BLTouch is addressed a comment is made that BLTouch doesn't like to move slowly between probes and you may have to put the Z feedrate at 4*60 (240). I don't think that's going to work without some other workaround, if indeed, you need that much speed. I did raise my Z driver voltage from .240 to .350 with no change. I didn't go any higher.
Any suggestions from those who are using BLTouch??
Also, the suggested changes in the Wikia are tailored to RC3, I think, rather than theRippa's version. eg:servo section.
If you are using 1.1.0-RC3, be sure to set the motherboard type to BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or the servo won't work due to a pin conflict.
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB
Also 4*60 is the default homing rate for 1.1.0-RC3, I think, so no change will be necessary there.
You can get a copy of my Configuration.h file for 1.1.0-RC3 here:
[www.thetechwizard.us]
It is for a x-endstop on the left, and stock extruder.
The instruction on Wikia were based on 1.1.0RC2, which is the firmware I'm running. I have changed the wikia page to reflect this. I'm not sure what version therippa is running!?!? If it is in fact RC3 we must all keep in mind the following statement on github...
Release Candidate -- Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015
"Not for production use – use with caution!"
To honest I'm not familiar enough with Marlin to know exactly what that means, nor whether it really matters or not. But it seems to me to be indicating it is a living firmware, that can be changed at anytime!?!?
That's the reason I pick RC2, it was latest so called released version I could find.
Maybe once rippa forks it, his version doesn't change, again, I don't know, but I'm sure rippa can clarify.
I also changed the note referring to the speed change, it was only necessary if you were having issues between probing (alarm) which I was having and I believe only related to the Yellow version!?!? It was one of those things that took me literally days to figure out, so I wanted to bring it to light to maybe same other some time...
The motherboard changes Bert recommend did not apply to RC2, at least not for me, my motherboard is MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB (note: EEB is require over EFB for dual extruders).
tjnamtiw,
As far as the racketing, I never experienced it with my Z setup (8mm Lead Screws Igus bearings) running between probes at 4*60 (hell I even ran them at 4*100 for a while, but it was scary fast...still worked though), so I'm not sure what's going on there. If you're running lead screws there might be a bit of an alignment issues or binding you simply don't see at lower speeds, if you're still running the M5 allthread that very well might be it!?!? But if it's working now at 50 I would leave it there.
Thanks for bringing this up, the Wikia needs to be proofed by everyone so we can catch these errors and the instruction that might make since to some of use but not explained well enough for everyone to get it. It always sounds good in the author head when he's writing it, but that doesn't mean it's written well LOL
It sounds like you used the Wikia guide to get the BLtouch setup, if so please let me know what you think and how we can improve it...
Edit: This reply is a prime example of how easy it is to make mistakes when writing (or at least for me)...I just reread it and found two types
You should be using the RC3 version, they fixed a bunch of bugs in it and it is more stable than RC2. They give that disclaimer for all of the release candidates, it just means "we aren't sure we've worked all of the kinks out, use with caution". I've been running RC3 since it came out in early December with no issues.
WILCO
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 12:36AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 14 |
Quote
Boffster
Quote
sonnylowe
This is great advice, maybe we should add a trouble shooting section to the Wikia Page!?!?
I think would be a huge benefit to have a definitive build guide and configuration.h that the majority agree on that we can point people to (here and from the wiki), that way everyone will have the same setup and same config starting out. E.g. Endstops on Min and Stepper cables all connected the same way round.
That should help with 90% of the problems people seem to be having.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 08:33AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 13 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 08:52AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 131 |
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
marc2912
So I don't want to sound like a broken record but I'm getting some serious lift issues. Not just the corners lifting off the build bed but also lifting on edges higher up in the print. I've printed something where there is an overhang higher up (about 25mm high) and it build appropriate support, The support adhered to the print and when the corner started lifting there it ripped the support of the bed.
I am printing on a borosilicate glass plate.
I'm getting the bed itself up to 120C (mostly because I think I'm losing a bit during the heat transfer to the glass)
I've had better results when printing directly on the bed but the FT bed are warped and far from a level surface.
I've considered a raft but if an overhang 25mm up rips the support off the bed as they warp I don't see how a raft would fare any better.
This is my main issue as my prints are otherwise looking great.
Thanks
Check out the two guides below (also posted on the Wikia Page), they may help with your issue. I print on the same glass, 80C with Glue Stick...I have no real lifting issues...maybe your filament temp is a bit too high!?!?
S3D Guide
Ultimaker
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 09:00AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 131 |
Quote
nightpanda2810
Got everything together Saturday morning, but still having an issue with a mirrored X axis.
I've tried several things I found in this thread but nothing is working.
Using therippa's Marlin, and my end-stop is on the left.
Other than this and some needed calibration, everything else is working great!
(Shoddy printed parts excluded... working on replacing those!)
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 09:10AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 13 |
Quote
marc2912
Quote
nightpanda2810
Got everything together Saturday morning, but still having an issue with a mirrored X axis.
I've tried several things I found in this thread but nothing is working.
Using therippa's Marlin, and my end-stop is on the left.
Other than this and some needed calibration, everything else is working great!
(Shoddy printed parts excluded... working on replacing those!)
Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but did you try change the way you have it plugged in to the ramps board. Flipping it should reverse the rotation. Had to do that when I built, for some reason my extruder was de-struding.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 11:13AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 276 |
Quote
nightpanda2810
Got everything together Saturday morning, but still having an issue with a mirrored X axis.
I've tried several things I found in this thread but nothing is working.
Using therippa's Marlin, and my end-stop is on the left.
Other than this and some needed calibration, everything else is working great!
(Shoddy printed parts excluded... working on replacing those!)
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 12:21PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 16 |
Quote
UltiFix
Is this the right guide to use when asembling my printer?
[github.com]
In my last post I forgot to add the link
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 01:56PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 13 |
Quote
rollinns
Quote
UltiFix
Is this the right guide to use when asembling my printer?
[github.com]
In my last post I forgot to add the link
Until bstern's build guide is done, it's the best place to start.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 05:27PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 25 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 05:48PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 13 |
Quote
therippa
Quote
nightpanda2810
Got everything together Saturday morning, but still having an issue with a mirrored X axis.
I've tried several things I found in this thread but nothing is working.
Using therippa's Marlin, and my end-stop is on the left.
Other than this and some needed calibration, everything else is working great!
(Shoddy printed parts excluded... working on replacing those!)
The firmware I posted is meant for the stock folgertech setup, so it thinks the endstop is on the right.
Off the top of my head, in configuration.h you'd have to set the following:
X_HOME_DIR -1
INVERT_X_DIR true (but this can also be changed by just reversing the plug)
and in your host you would set X-endstop to MIN
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 07:16PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 84 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 08:17PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Quote
bstern
Quote
Boffster
Quote
sonnylowe
This is great advice, maybe we should add a trouble shooting section to the Wikia Page!?!?
I think would be a huge benefit to have a definitive build guide and configuration.h that the majority agree on that we can point people to (here and from the wiki), that way everyone will have the same setup and same config starting out. E.g. Endstops on Min and Stepper cables all connected the same way round.
That should help with 90% of the problems people seem to be having.
I've been working on a step-by-step build guide and photographing almost every line. I have to finish the last step, but I can't do that until I get a cast off my hand.
Once that happens, I can share it with you guys for review.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 08:23PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Quote
marc2912
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
marc2912
So I don't want to sound like a broken record but I'm getting some serious lift issues. Not just the corners lifting off the build bed but also lifting on edges higher up in the print. I've printed something where there is an overhang higher up (about 25mm high) and it build appropriate support, The support adhered to the print and when the corner started lifting there it ripped the support of the bed.
I am printing on a borosilicate glass plate.
I'm getting the bed itself up to 120C (mostly because I think I'm losing a bit during the heat transfer to the glass)
I've had better results when printing directly on the bed but the FT bed are warped and far from a level surface.
I've considered a raft but if an overhang 25mm up rips the support off the bed as they warp I don't see how a raft would fare any better.
This is my main issue as my prints are otherwise looking great.
Thanks
Check out the two guides below (also posted on the Wikia Page), they may help with your issue. I print on the same glass, 80C with Glue Stick...I have no real lifting issues...maybe your filament temp is a bit too high!?!?
S3D Guide
Ultimaker
Went through the guides, nothing makes much of a difference. I've read that glass while great for being flat is not the best to use due to it's heat transfer properties... Ordered some Kapton tape to print directly on the bed since those are the best results I've gotten.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 08:27PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 10:15PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 92 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 11:01PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 276 |
Quote
iamquestar
Hello fellow FT2020ers! Let me start of by saying a huge THANK YOU to all of you who have contributed to the thread over the past several months. It has been an invaluable resource to me these past couple weeks since I received my FT 2020. (I'm reading through it, but am still back at page 92 - I'm getting caught up!)
I had a couple issues out of the gate (the same things as many of you). I also had a bad hot-end termistor which prevented me doing anything until I diagnosed that. I pulled the one off the bed to get things going, and have stuck with PLA for now.(The good folks at FT have taken good care of me, and sent out replacement parts immediately.)
So when I got things up and running, I ran my first print (without doing any other extruder calibration or anything) and it came out beautifully (I turned down the temp to 195c from the default 219). From that cube, I did some calibration to the XYZ steppers, and have calibrated the extruder to accurate 100mm runs.
Attached is a pic of my 6th or 7th print, and I think Benchy came out great.(.2mm, 30% Infill)
I'm having a couple issues that I can' figure out. First, the middle of my print bed is higher than the corners.It doesn't matter what I do, but I can get the corners all the same height, but I can't print anything in the middle unless my first layer is set to .4mm, as at .2, the nozzle touches hard, and can't extrude anything. I have checked the heat bed with a straight edge, and it looks good and flat. I've used multiple sheets of glass, and all have the same issue. Anyone else deal with something like this?
The second problem I'm having is with object scale. I printed out a set of the Z motor standoffs, to raise them up and reclaim my height, but they came out small. I couldn't insert the 608 bearings for the life of me, so I pulled out the calipers and sure enough, they measured small. I had to upscale them to 1.024 for them to print the right size. Now before you yell Calibrate! I have. When I print a 20mm cube, it comes right in at 20x20x20mm. I have a number things I want to print, but I need accurate dimensions, and I can't print each thing a second time (after seeing the results, then scaling up to compensate). So do any of you have any recommendations?
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 11:12PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 541 |
Quote
sonnylowe
Thanks for the heads up, I think I'll merge my current RC2 into RC3 and see what happens
EDIT: Just merged RC2 into RC3, all went well...I was printing again in less than ten minutes
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 25, 2016 11:35PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 276 |
Quote
tjnamtiw
Quote
sonnylowe
Thanks for the heads up, I think I'll merge my current RC2 into RC3 and see what happens
EDIT: Just merged RC2 into RC3, all went well...I was printing again in less than ten minutes
Might I be missing something? When you say 'merge' the current RC2 into RC3, is there a magic way of doing this besides opening the two up side by side in Arduino and go down line by line making changes to the new one to reflect what's in the old one? That's what I've been doing.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 26, 2016 01:47AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 92 |
Quote
therippa
Quote
iamquestar
Hello fellow FT2020ers! Let me start of by saying a huge THANK YOU to all of you who have contributed to the thread over the past several months. It has been an invaluable resource to me these past couple weeks since I received my FT 2020. (I'm reading through it, but am still back at page 92 - I'm getting caught up!)
I had a couple issues out of the gate (the same things as many of you). I also had a bad hot-end termistor which prevented me doing anything until I diagnosed that. I pulled the one off the bed to get things going, and have stuck with PLA for now.(The good folks at FT have taken good care of me, and sent out replacement parts immediately.)
So when I got things up and running, I ran my first print (without doing any other extruder calibration or anything) and it came out beautifully (I turned down the temp to 195c from the default 219). From that cube, I did some calibration to the XYZ steppers, and have calibrated the extruder to accurate 100mm runs.
Attached is a pic of my 6th or 7th print, and I think Benchy came out great.(.2mm, 30% Infill)
I'm having a couple issues that I can' figure out. First, the middle of my print bed is higher than the corners.It doesn't matter what I do, but I can get the corners all the same height, but I can't print anything in the middle unless my first layer is set to .4mm, as at .2, the nozzle touches hard, and can't extrude anything. I have checked the heat bed with a straight edge, and it looks good and flat. I've used multiple sheets of glass, and all have the same issue. Anyone else deal with something like this?
The second problem I'm having is with object scale. I printed out a set of the Z motor standoffs, to raise them up and reclaim my height, but they came out small. I couldn't insert the 608 bearings for the life of me, so I pulled out the calipers and sure enough, they measured small. I had to upscale them to 1.024 for them to print the right size. Now before you yell Calibrate! I have. When I print a 20mm cube, it comes right in at 20x20x20mm. I have a number things I want to print, but I need accurate dimensions, and I can't print each thing a second time (after seeing the results, then scaling up to compensate). So do any of you have any recommendations?
For your first problem, sounds like a rod may be bent, there's no reason it shouldn't be perfectly flat if you're printing on glass
For the second problem, a lot of people have problems with holes being too small (I'm in that camp, by like a fraction of a millimeter, I just design around it). Try googling for potential solutions (there's a bunch)
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 26, 2016 03:21AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 1 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 26, 2016 06:56AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Quote
therippa
Quote
tjnamtiw
Quote
sonnylowe
Thanks for the heads up, I think I'll merge my current RC2 into RC3 and see what happens
EDIT: Just merged RC2 into RC3, all went well...I was printing again in less than ten minutes
Might I be missing something? When you say 'merge' the current RC2 into RC3, is there a magic way of doing this besides opening the two up side by side in Arduino and go down line by line making changes to the new one to reflect what's in the old one? That's what I've been doing.
That's part of the magic of git. You can tell it to grab the latest changes from the RC3 branch, and automatically merge them into the branch you are using. I prefer using Sourcetree to git command line, here are some instructions to get you started - [confluence.atlassian.com]
Since you probably didn't use git to pull the initial project, you should do this:
1. Install/open Sourcetree
2. File -> New/Clone -> Clone from URL. Use this URL: [github.com] . Clone it to a new folder somewhere on your computer.
3. You will now have the "RC" branch checked out. On the left nav, expand the Tags section, and right-click the 1.1.0-RC3 branch, and click checkout. Your project is now updated to the latest tagged RC
4. Use something like beyondcompare to compare your configuration.h to the one in the project. If I remember correctly, there were no changes made that I needed to port over.
5. Upload the project to the Arduino
6. Next time a marlin version is released, you can just check that version out and merge it automatically into what you're using.
Make sure you backup your current marlin folder in case you make any mistakes, but once you get the hang of git, you'll realize if you make any mistakes you can revert the changes easily Git is DEFINITELY worth learning, you can version control pretty much anything with it, and you can host your projects for free on github or bitbucket, so in case your hard drive dies you won't lose any work.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 26, 2016 09:48AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 541 |
Quote
therippa
Quote
tjnamtiw
Quote
sonnylowe
Thanks for the heads up, I think I'll merge my current RC2 into RC3 and see what happens
EDIT: Just merged RC2 into RC3, all went well...I was printing again in less than ten minutes
Might I be missing something? When you say 'merge' the current RC2 into RC3, is there a magic way of doing this besides opening the two up side by side in Arduino and go down line by line making changes to the new one to reflect what's in the old one? That's what I've been doing.
That's part of the magic of git. You can tell it to grab the latest changes from the RC3 branch, and automatically merge them into the branch you are using. I prefer using Sourcetree to git command line, here are some instructions to get you started - [confluence.atlassian.com]
Since you probably didn't use git to pull the initial project, you should do this:
1. Install/open Sourcetree
2. File -> New/Clone -> Clone from URL. Use this URL: [github.com] . Clone it to a new folder somewhere on your computer.
3. You will now have the "RC" branch checked out. On the left nav, expand the Tags section, and right-click the 1.1.0-RC3 branch, and click checkout. Your project is now updated to the latest tagged RC
4. Use something like beyondcompare to compare your configuration.h to the one in the project. If I remember correctly, there were no changes made that I needed to port over.
5. Upload the project to the Arduino
6. Next time a marlin version is released, you can just check that version out and merge it automatically into what you're using.
Make sure you backup your current marlin folder in case you make any mistakes, but once you get the hang of git, you'll realize if you make any mistakes you can revert the changes easily Git is DEFINITELY worth learning, you can version control pretty much anything with it, and you can host your projects for free on github or bitbucket, so in case your hard drive dies you won't lose any work.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 26, 2016 10:40AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 16 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 26, 2016 11:02AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 16 |
Quote
XChris
I'm having problems with my extruder motor. The filament isn't being feed through properly, it just oscillates up and down, ie the motor moves forward a step then back as step. Problem remains with various Vref (from 0.1 - 0.6 V). When switching the wires for the x- driver, it feeds filament fine. When I switched the actual drivers on the board, nothing changes so it doesn't seem to be the driver. When I try to drive the x-motor, using the original extruder cables, same motor performance is seen.
Is this a firmware issue? Anyone have solutions or troubleshooting ideas?
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 26, 2016 11:19AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 80 |
Quote
sonnylowe
Quote
therippa
Quote
tjnamtiw
Quote
sonnylowe
Thanks for the heads up, I think I'll merge my current RC2 into RC3 and see what happens
EDIT: Just merged RC2 into RC3, all went well...I was printing again in less than ten minutes
Might I be missing something? When you say 'merge' the current RC2 into RC3, is there a magic way of doing this besides opening the two up side by side in Arduino and go down line by line making changes to the new one to reflect what's in the old one? That's what I've been doing.
That's part of the magic of git. You can tell it to grab the latest changes from the RC3 branch, and automatically merge them into the branch you are using. I prefer using Sourcetree to git command line, here are some instructions to get you started - [confluence.atlassian.com]
Since you probably didn't use git to pull the initial project, you should do this:
1. Install/open Sourcetree
2. File -> New/Clone -> Clone from URL. Use this URL: [github.com] . Clone it to a new folder somewhere on your computer.
3. You will now have the "RC" branch checked out. On the left nav, expand the Tags section, and right-click the 1.1.0-RC3 branch, and click checkout. Your project is now updated to the latest tagged RC
4. Use something like beyondcompare to compare your configuration.h to the one in the project. If I remember correctly, there were no changes made that I needed to port over.
5. Upload the project to the Arduino
6. Next time a marlin version is released, you can just check that version out and merge it automatically into what you're using.
Make sure you backup your current marlin folder in case you make any mistakes, but once you get the hang of git, you'll realize if you make any mistakes you can revert the changes easily Git is DEFINITELY worth learning, you can version control pretty much anything with it, and you can host your projects for free on github or bitbucket, so in case your hard drive dies you won't lose any work.
Great explanation rippa, thanks.
This would be good info to add to the Wikia page for those that have slightly different printer setups, it's great for transferring settings like E-steps, PID, Etc.
I merged the RC2/RC3 config-h files using Beyond Compare, although it may not be the best way to do it, up to this point it was the only way I knew how ;-)
However, after reading this post I will definitely try it through Git next time...I'd love to understand it a little better
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) January 26, 2016 11:29AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 80 |
Quote
rollinns
Quote
XChris
I'm having problems with my extruder motor. The filament isn't being feed through properly, it just oscillates up and down, ie the motor moves forward a step then back as step. Problem remains with various Vref (from 0.1 - 0.6 V). When switching the wires for the x- driver, it feeds filament fine. When I switched the actual drivers on the board, nothing changes so it doesn't seem to be the driver. When I try to drive the x-motor, using the original extruder cables, same motor performance is seen.
Is this a firmware issue? Anyone have solutions or troubleshooting ideas?
I had similar issues a while back. I checked the same things you have.
To be clear on this "When switching the wires for the x- driver, it feeds filament fine." Do you mean the extruder is now plugged into the X-axis stepper pins? Meaning the extruder motor is now receiving power from a different driver and a different set of pins (both the x stepper driver and the x-stepper pins)?
if so then: different driver + different pins = success
And when you plugged a different driver into the extruder position and plugged the extruder into the extruder pins, it didn't work?
if so then: different driver + same pins = fail
I know some people here don't like when people blame the RAMPS board, but a new ramps fixed mine. I originally inspected my RAMPS before installation and found a stray solder blob, which I removed, at this point I knew my RAMPS was one of the poor RAMPS boards FT is known for. It worked for a while, but after the problems you've described came up later, I did the same tests and a new RAMPS fixed it. I didn't suspect firmware since I'd not changed it at all. There may be a component that could be replaced on the RAMPS to fix it (I'm not sure), but if it's a RAMPS that came from FT, my opinion is that it's not worth fixing. If you ever need to fix a RAMPS that way, spend the time and money repairing a higher quality board.
Later, similar problems returned, but I was able to confirm it was a bad driver the second time, so I swapped in dirt cheap DVR8825 drivers from aliexpress and it's a lot quieter.
I really like my FT 2020 i3, it's a lot of kit and education for the money, but I won't stand behind the RAMPS boards they ship at all. Maybe they've recently changed suppliers (again), but it doesn't appear that way.