They are looking for a cheap kit. I have a TronXY X5S and an X1. They are both capable of fine prints. The X5S took quite a few upgrades to get it up to snuff but it is a good printer. I got it for less than $300 using a code I got off of youtube. Not sure why anybody says to avoid mendel/prusa printers either. I have a Prusa i3 MK3 and it is an awesome printer. In fact, Make magazine consistentlby KDog - General
Is RAMBo electronics still good? It comes with 8 stepper drivers as standard and can run Marlin. Josef Prusa is using a newer mini version on all his printers. I have RADDS running RepRap FW and an Azteeg X5 running smoothie but Marlin still seems to be the most well developed and updated firmware that I use. The RADDS controller seems to almost be orphaned and I heard that the Smoothieware guy iby KDog - General
Printrbot has been using a dual gear extruder for a while. Not sure who was first.by KDog - General
I don't really have a minimum but....200x200 is probably the most inexpensive way to go as it has the most bed options for the lowest price. Any other bed size is non-standard. There will be a few options for different sizes but a ton of options for 200x200.by KDog - Reprappers
Question on backlash. With autoleveling the lead screw changes directions constantly. Doesn't this cause backlash?by KDog - Reprappers
TronXY X3 will be fine with a few upgrades. A bit smaller but Creality just came out with the Ender-2. Awesome.by KDog - Reprappers
I don't understand. Marlin has the melzi board settings already. You just specify the board in the config. Setting up the probe will be the same as for any other board.by KDog - General
Sorry, a bit confused. Why are you setting your build plate size to 220x220 in S3D? You have offset your axis (endstops) in your firmware. S3D will generate g-code based on the xyz origin that you have set (either by endstops or, in your case, the offsets). Set your build plate size in S3D to what it actually is, based on your M208 offsets, and you should be good to go.by KDog - General
It is not the connectivity of the RAMPS board that causes the connector to burn up. It is the amount of current flowing through a connector that wasn't made for it. If the new connector is not rated for the amount of current it takes to heat a heat bed then it too will melt.by KDog - Reprappers
Correct me if I'm wrong but M6 will give you more better accuracies as it is a 1mm pitch. It allows you to adjust layer height to two decimal places and still have even steps. M5 and M8 will both be limited to certain heights at 2 decimal places. Not sure how important this would be to anybody. For instance a 0.25mm layer height is even steps on m6 and m8 but not on m5. All three are good to anyby KDog - General
Sure looks like delamination to me. Usually happens to ABS when it cools too fast. Could try increasing temperature a bit or using an enclosure. If there are drafts in the room that can cause this issue with ABS as well.by KDog - General
Did you ever get this to work?by KDog - Controllers
If it is a different thermistor (the thing that measures the temperature) you will probably have to change the type in the firmware.by KDog - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for the reply. I'm using an Azteeg x5. It only has one connector. Panucatt said to wire the z-motors in parallel as they will be sharing the load and don't really require much current.by KDog - Reprappers
Hi, I feel like this is a bit of a stupid question but I haven't build a cartesian system for a few years and don't remember how I did it before. I'm going to wire the z-motors in parallel so need to splice the together. Do the cables from both motors need to be the same length? Thanks, KDog.by KDog - Reprappers
What happened to J-Head is what can happen to any company. The product stayed the same for too long. Not only were there plenty of J-Head type hotends available, (it is open source btw) many American made, but you had companies like E3D starting up which were busy revolutionizing the all-metal hotend. In J-Head's heydey you only had PLA and ABS print options. Newer hotends were trying to push temby KDog - General
I disagree. The Chinese E3D clones are obviously inferior quality and I've never heard anyone say otherwise. Folks are having nothing but problems with them. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out they are not the same as the original. At the same time people are figuring out how to make them work because they don't have the $70 to get the original. Nothing wrong with that. They were neverby KDog - General
My first thought was that there would be a counter-rotation effect by the extruder as it turns. Could this be the cause of the artifact?by KDog - Delta Machines
I'm working on a p3steel. I got my frame off of eBay. It was painted black and included the smooth and threaded rods. Quality is excellent and it is extremely sturdy. Was very surprised, not sure why, at how heavy it is. Can't wait for the rest of my parts to arrive so I can finish it. Didn't know anything about p3steel until I started looking for aluminum i3 frames.by KDog - Reprappers
Not sure how buying a clone is a threat to the OSHW community. The whole reason for open source is so that the design can be used and hopefully improved upon by others. While I agree that the original E3D is the best out there, the clone market is all part of the open source process. Look at the number of Prusa clones out there. Josef Prusa has never complained about it. As with any industry youby KDog - General
Is there a way to add stepper drivers to the Azteeg x5? Can you use something like the RADDS extender board to do it? Thanks, KDogby KDog - Reprappers
I bought my first printer from Makerfarm years ago. It was a kit and he had excellent followup. I was able to contact him several times with questions and he was quick to answer (email). If you buy a cheap clone you may find out that the money savings was in the customer support area in addition to the quality of the parts. I can guarantee that you will have problems with the extruder and hotendby KDog - General
Confusing because I think that bridging and shorting are two different things. Are they?by KDog - General
I think they mean PTFE tape around the sensor.by KDog - General
I think it will be a disaster for you to buy the parts and assemble the kit yourself. You will have almost zero support and your frustration level will go through the roof. A kit will be great for you especially if this is your first time getting into 3d printing. Take a look at the prusa i3 kits on the prusa website. They are well made and are getting great reviews.by KDog - General
You might check out the Prusa i3 from the man himself. This printer is getting great reviews.by KDog - General
I installed a hall-effect sensor on my Prusa i2. Got it in a Ramps kit off of ebay. You can adjust the depth on them using a potentiometer on pcb which makes them very sensitive and precise.by KDog - General