Just another perspective: I have not had to level my bed in over a year. I have my printer tuned in to the point I can power on and print. And on the flip side, this same printer has a 0.3mm backlash on the Z axis. It is repeatable and only occurs when reversing direction. Since my slicer setting is to raise 0.3mm at the very beginning of a print, it compensates that backlash and it does not efby Hazer - General
Quoterealthor This is very interesting for two reasons: 1) I like the compound pulley that doubles the resolution and 2) I would have never thought that this solution would not bind. There is also something that I don't quite like and that is the height of the slider, which is the same as it was if it were the usual on side lift. I would have thought that if you support the bed from 3 points youby Hazer - CoreXY Machines
Here is another perspective: If its your first 3D printer, dont buy it from Aliexpress. Period. Your first printer should be purchased from somewhere reputable with a very large source of support. That support can be a 3rd party, like a large forum dedicated to that particular printer (not actually based from the seller itself). There are quite a few on these forums. You need good communicationby Hazer - General
To address the original poster question: It does not seem like there are dozens of previous buyers of these printers on these forums. I do not agree with the statement that a low cost printer is a cheap one. That is due to my belief that more expensive printers use the same hardware and use more expensive (but not better quality) labor. The result is, if it is less expensive, you can count onby Hazer - General
Something else to consider: Electronics. A bigger delta means you will at least triple the mass of the arms. This will require stronger steppers and probably will result in currents higher than your standard arduino printer electronics drivers can handle. I would also be leary of any material for delta arms at that length. Almost anything other than chromed linear rods will start flexing. A H-bby Hazer - General
Quality. I can pay a few bucks more per roll if it means not spending an extra hour cleaning a nozzle and re-calibrating, or prints that are trashed from separation of layers or bad adhesion. I keep ordering the same brand in white for most structural prints and leave the colored stuff for artsy knick knacks. Either more quality filament brands need to come out, or an extruder that can handle allby Hazer - General
It would be better to say this is a Continuous Improvement project rather than a SixSigma. I doubt even most >$5000 machines are ready for SixSigma.by Hazer - General
As a fellow Continuous Improvement constituent, I will add to your list some experience in my own adventures and what I have seen in forums helping others: Material: Quality. This is by far the Pareto winner. Subclasses of this are: Impure material (recycled junk) Variable diameter Bends and kinks lint/dirt on the outside that does not get cleaned off before it is spooled. Environment: Insulatiby Hazer - General
QuoteChileMaker Hi Hazer and all, I was curious about RobotDigg. I am shopping around for a 300mm x 300mm heated bed and I came across one from them: It is 12V and only $20, but they don't say alot about it. This other place seems to carry the same item (from the pictures they look the same) but a lot more expensive, but they do give more information about it. What are your thoughts on tby Hazer - General
My experience: I have purchased from DX.com for the last 7 years. Replacement cases for PS portables. Replacement LCD screens and other internal bits for PSP and Nintendo DS. Replacement bits for iPhones. Odds and ends like microswitches and SSR relays. Quality on all of these items were just fine. I did get one $7 MP3 player the size of a quarter that issues with its touch screen, but it stillby Hazer - General
If your gonna spend that kind of cash, get a Flashforge Creator for just under $1000 USD assembled.by Hazer - General
Confirmed your wiring: http://www.sanyo-denki.com/Data/Servo/catalogs/F2_ver1.pdf If it can spin sometimes, then your coil wiring is correct as well. I think you may have more of a problem tuning in your A4988 driver. Too little or too much current will make the motors funky.by Hazer - General
http://cncsuperstore.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=63 Wow. You got some funky stepper motors. Look half way down that page. Your pinout goes: 1 A+ (red) 2 B+ (blue) 3 A- (yellow) 4 B- (orange) 5 COM (white) 6 COM (black) So, float your 5 and 6 (leave unconnected). Match this to your RAMPS: 2B = orange 2A = yellow 1A = red 1B = blueby Hazer - General
QuoteJames G-J I just went through and double checked all my stepper wiring (I'm using 6 lead NEMA 17s, but I found the proper common wires to ignore) and tested the motor with every polarity combination on the coils with no success but similar results each time. I have tried many different current settings in all of these arrangements too. The motor bounces around and shivers but seems to be mby Hazer - General
Listen to both of these gentlemen. First, the easy thing to do is adjust the screw on your stepper driver board just a little. If that does not change anything, then try swapping the 3rd and 4th wires. If you have one set of poles reversed, it basically makes the motor just oscillate in place (buzz). Except if you apply enough force to skip over to the next pair of poles, and then the momentum thby Hazer - General
The goal of self-replication is just fad. Same as the moon. Do it just to say you did it. It does not 'help' anything in the end. How about something different and original: Design a good printer. Instead of a bad one just because you can say "It self replicates, its a piece of poop, but it can make even more poop".by Hazer - General
I think the summary of this thread is: Kickstarter campaigns always run late. If people put a real schedule on their KS page, they would not get funded, so its normal for people to put aggressive schedules so that more people fund the project. So again, KS usually runs late. People who throw their money at Kickstarter like its a web store always expect the world even though they clicked the liby Hazer - General
Quotepaddy92 To my understanding, only one type of extruder fits on this printer due to the center pivot. Someone could maybe look into a center plate with virtual pivot point hinges. In this way, a clean platform is available and the arm connections are more symetric. Moreover, fans and lights can be placed which is not easely possible at this moment. Here is a picture of my idea . The blue bloby Hazer - Delta Machines
I've built my own H-BOT design. http://www.soliforum.com/topic/5141/hbot-printer-or-yahp/ I have yet to build a delta, but here is some of my experiences: H-BOT: Pros: Easy to build. If you look at my design, you will see a single belt that is tensioned by having oval mounting holes for the steppers. You just need to snug the belt, no worrying about matching separate belt tensions. I have had pby Hazer - General
IMO: Use some form of wood to get running. Once you can print (even lower quality) you can find an open-source design to print the parts to upgrade to extruded aluminum. Wood is easy to manipulate to get started, but does not hold its shape over time and heat. Extruded aluminum is still easy to work with but much better frame stiffness than most other designs, and cost is not as bad it seems. Oby Hazer - General
You should know you can request cheaper (and longer) shipping via china post. I usually do and get the shipping below $10 even though it takes 3 weeks.by Hazer - General
Quoteumdpru I guess you missed the part about the automatic fire bottle above your work bench? I have MUCH greater peace of mind since I installed one along with fire alarms right above my printing bench. No, I did not. You forget I mentioned an automatic fire extinguisher first. I am glad you have one, as the point I am trying to make is that no matter what people come up with, the only wayby Hazer - Safety & Best Practices
The point I have been trying to make is that you need more than just temperature-cutoff devices in order to eliminate the potential for fire. As mentioned, if you do not have the thermal cut-off directly on your heat block, then you run the risk of your hotend dropping out of its plastic fixture before the thermal cut-off does its job. And even then, there is no guarantee that the thermal cutoffby Hazer - Safety & Best Practices
Quotethejollygrimreaper QuoteHazer Quotethejollygrimreaper using my setup as an example: on my hotend i have a 40watt 12v heater cartridge and a 12v 120watt silicone bed , and i run a 19v 180watt power supply , obviously i have my max_pwm value set as to not instantly overload the powersupply but to a point where my bed and hotend can function as desired scenario #1 : if the hotend mosfet faiby Hazer - Safety & Best Practices
Quotethejollygrimreaper using my setup as an example: on my hotend i have a 40watt 12v heater cartridge and a 12v 120watt silicone bed , and i run a 19v 180watt power supply , obviously i have my max_pwm value set as to not instantly overload the powersupply but to a point where my bed and hotend can function as desired scenario #1 : if the hotend mosfet fails, the hotend heater cartridge wilby Hazer - Safety & Best Practices
Quotethejollygrimreaper i solved this problem many moons ago by using axial thermistors and insulating the leads with ptfe sleeve: click here using this method there is nearly no easy way to get it into a thermal runaway mode, as the thermistor cannot physically leave the heater-block, Thermal runaway is not limited to loose thermistors. There have been failed-on MOSFETs and stuck processors.by Hazer - Safety & Best Practices
QuoteMrDoctorDIV QuoteHazer Show me a Kickstarter that met its promised schedule on an experimental 3D printer? Here's a premade list for you. Um, that list shows 84% of all projects were late. And only one of those projects was a 3d printer. I am assuming you are helping prove my point?by Hazer - General
Quote I don't know how well a ceramic tile will function as a heated bed. I'm guessing quite spectacularly badly Actually, it is probably one of the best beds to use. As a great discussion on another board, it is explained like this: The more heat conductive a bed material is, the worse it performs due to cooling too fast when the print is over. If the material is thermally resistive, then it taby Hazer - Delta Machines
While this is adorable how people not involved in this thread are more than ready to bash each other, let me throw in some perspective: Show me a Kickstarter that met its promised schedule on an experimental 3D printer? In the end, the kickstarter rules obviously state there is no real way to hold someone accountable for their 'rewards'. The people who threw their money at kickstarter, I canby Hazer - General
Theres a big difference in volume between a thread 0.3mm x 0.42mm versus a thread 1.75mm x 1.75mm (using recent common settings). Now, if you are asking what it takes to make them go faster: 1. Heatzone: You need a longer heatzone. The pellets need enough surface area contact to melt in time before reaching the die. 2. Torque: In order either increase the speed of your screw, or increase theby Hazer - General