QuoteElmoC Putting that much voltage in to a 3.3v input could burn out the input. But with it being an analog input in this case, you might be okay. When the probe is triggered, the output voltage should be 3.3v. When not triggered, it should be close to 0v. You need to correct those voltages. Thx do you know how to do that? I got only 5x 150k Ohm and 5x 100k Ohm. I tryed to calculated thatby DeathmannX - Duet
I changed the Mode to P5 and set the H Value to 5 and 10. It never triggers... If i remove the I1 the Probe is always triggered. In the Webinterface i can see that to. But what can i try now? EDITE: I measured with my Multimeter that the Probe send in to the in pin 5,48V on not triggered and on triggered 7,83V. Is this the Problem?by DeathmannX - Duet
Hi Guys, i've bought a few Days ago a Duet Wifi Board and got everything to work except 1 Thing. I connected my Z Probe (capacitve) like this and try to get a Signal from it. The Probe lights up if it is close enough to my Buildplate but the Software don't get that. I already tryed to understand how to change the config but i cann't get it to work. Already tryed a few things from here: Myby DeathmannX - Duet
I soldered everything and checked the 24V on The Driver direct and it's ok, but they doing nothing. Vref=0.80by DeathmannX - Controllers
Ok i soldered only 1 GND to the 24V - and it did do nothing. You can basicly see what i did on the attached on the first post.by DeathmannX - Controllers
One quick question: I got currently the Situation that my TMC 2130 makes a realy high pitched noise and i found this: I got a 24V already used for the Heatbed is it possible to solder 24 to the Steppers? (i got only a 12V Ramps board and donn't wanna damage it) Here is a picture how it looks like (the TMC 2130): and the Standalone Mode: I soldered this to plates together.by DeathmannX - Controllers
Hi Guys, i've bought a few Months ago a Heatbed for my Printer and I have only now seen that my heatbed (200x300mm) is warped... Does some of you know how i can fix this?by DeathmannX - General
I did what you said and this is the Result: The first moves are simple move commands the other it tryed to home...by DeathmannX - CoreXY Machines
Hi Guys, i build my self a D-Bot and if i try to home a Axis it moves maybe 2-3 mm and thats it. If i trigger a Endstop by Hand and try to home the Axis it moves again like nothing has changed... I checked my Endstops and my configs but i cann't find the issue. That is how my config looks like: Can you Guys help me? EDIT: I noticed that i didn't selected the right pins and forget to commenby DeathmannX - CoreXY Machines
Hello everyone, today i tryed to print PLA with my Bowden Extruder but it get stucken between the Teeth after Seconds... I already changed from the normal Gear like This: now i got this: and it works for PETG realy well but not for PLA... same issue. Got someone a Idea how to fix that?by DeathmannX - General
I make a few Screenshots to show you my Settings: Why they don't insert a simple export function for this all.by DeathmannX - Printing
Hello Guys, i bought yesterday Simplify3D and set it up, but it dosen't work currently. I set up the Filament Diameter to 2.85 and checked my Filament. I also checked my Z Probe Offset and tryed to print it from Simplify3D and my SD Card but the Results are the same. I use a Prusa i3 with a E3D V6 Bowden and a inductive Probe. Result: From: The strange Thing about this is that if i printby DeathmannX - Printing
Hi everyone, i tryed to print out a Headphoneholder and got this nasty Extrusion Errors... I use a Bowden Extruder with a Oiler and a e3D V6 Hotend on my Prusa i3. How can i fix this?by DeathmannX - General
The Z Axis don't move 1 mm actually. I fixed Probe Problem with this: //#define USE_XMIN_PLUG //#define USE_YMIN_PLUG #define USE_ZMIN_PLUG #define USE_XMAX_PLUG #define USE_YMAX_PLUG //#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG // coarse Endstop Settings //#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors I got ENDSTOPPULLUPS uncommentet so itby DeathmannX - General
M119 said it is open and not triggered.by DeathmannX - General
Did that and same Situation. It don't move...by DeathmannX - General
I updatet my Marlinfirmware to: The X make still the noise and the Z make more stupid sounds. Here a Video:by DeathmannX - General
Hi everyone, after changing my place for my Prusa i3 i got "some" Problems. 1. When i start home X from Pronterface the Motor make just for 2 seconds a higher than normal sound and home the X Axis. 2. When i start home Y it drive in the wrong direction maybe 5-10 mm. If i push again Home it repeats that... 3. If i try to home Z (with a Probe) it tells me that my printer is bussyed: "busy: proby DeathmannX - General
i didn't changed the Table in all. I changed the max temparture for testing once. #if (THERMISTORHEATER_0 == 20) #define HEATER_0_RAW_HI_TEMP 16383 #define HEATER_0_RAW_LO_TEMP 0 #endif But i already changed it to default.by DeathmannX - RAMPS Electronics
1. Connection is Secure. (Checked with my Multimeter that the Wires are not broken with that Beep Setting. (I'am no Electric Man so i don't realy know how thats called)). 2. Resistance are exactly 120,6 ohms 3. I got no 100 ohm Resistor 4. Did that with the Methode of 1. E3D self say it have to work they have a Guide (that not worked for me) so it have to work. I've already wrote E3D in theby DeathmannX - RAMPS Electronics
So what can i do now?by DeathmannX - RAMPS Electronics
There is no cable where they can shorting together? I got no female to female wire so i cut a male to female cable and solder together. I checked if its work with my Multimeter and i can measure the 5V + and - By the way: if the Amplifier Board is not connected i got the same Error...by DeathmannX - RAMPS Electronics
Hello everyone, i got a Problem with my pt100 from e3d. I followed the Doc here: But the only thing that happen is that the Max Temparture was triggered and the printer turns off. (I don't think that 21°C are the max Temparture right? ) Pronterface Output: I've changed the pin configuration at: Line 108 form 13 to 3 And changed the Sensor to TEMP_SENSOR_0 20 in the configuration.h Hereby DeathmannX - RAMPS Electronics
Ich habe mir einfach mal 2m Schlauch gekauft (den selben wie bisher) 6mm außen 4,20mm innen. Jetzt ist der Schlauch wieder länger, aber das hat auch nix gebracht. Ich habe einfach mal noch das Hotend komplett auseinander genommen und das alte Filament so gut wie möglich von Rückständen befreit. Desweiteren habe ich das in Aceton mal gelegt und anschließend ordentlich sauber gemacht. (wie neu) Dby DeathmannX - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
Soooo, ich habe alle 3 Schrauben jetzt drin und darunter eine Mutter gemacht, weil die Schrauben nun mal zu lang sind. Das Ritzel hat sich am Filament ausgerichtet dementsprechend sollte das auch passen. Ich werde aber irgendwie das Gefühl nicht los, das vlt der Schlauch schuld ist an dem Dilemma. Ich könnte mir vorstellen, das er ordentlich Druck aufbauen muss um der Biegung entgegen zu wirkeby DeathmannX - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
Vielen vielen Dank für die zahlreichen Antworten. Ich habe hier mal ein Bild gestern Abend noch gemacht, damit man sieht, wie der Filamentfluss verläuft durch den Schlauch. Ich gebe zu das es bedingt durch die Knicke im Schlauch zu Druckverlust kommt und dadurch wahrscheinlich das Filament nicht mit genug Kraft in die Düse gedrückt wird, aber dennoch ging es ja zuvor mal. Ich werde den Schritby DeathmannX - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
Schönen guten Abend, ich habe seit längerem ein Problem und habe schon etliche Versuche unternommen um dieses Problem in den Griff zu bekommen. Es scheint aus irgend einem Grund sich immer wieder in meinem Bowden Extruder Material zwischen den Zähnen meines Antriebsrads zu sammeln, welches leider dafür sorgt das ich den Druck abbrechen muss. Hier mal ein paar Bilder: Hier sieht man das Filameby DeathmannX - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
Hi Guys, i've got a Problem with my Bowden Extruder or should i say with the Pulley (mk8 3mm Filament). This little sharp Teeths dig inside the Filament and little peaces of the Filament stucks inside the Pulley between the Teeths. If this happens i cann't extrude anymore and i've tryed a few Things to fix this Problem but currently without any sucess.... Here are some Pictues from my Problem:by DeathmannX - Prusa i3 and variants
Schönen guten Abend/Morgen, ich bin gerade dabei mein Heizbett wieder neu ein zu richten, weil ich eine 5mm starkes Holzbrett unten drunter gelegt/klemmt habe. Jetzt habe ich mal mit G29 das Heizbett abgefahren (ist noch nicht 100% grade) und habe versucht mal aus den Werten hier schlau zu werden. Bed Level Correction Matrix: +0.999998 +0.000000 -0.001829 -0.000003 +0.999998 -0.001768 +0.00182by DeathmannX - Software
Schönen guten Abend, ich habe mir mal einen Prusa i3 zugelegt und dazu gehört ein RAMPS 1.4 Board mit Schrittreibern (fragt mich nicht welche ) Nun ist es so das ich in Zukunft auch mal gerne etwas größeres drucken will und da der Drucker nicht gerade leise ist wäre es Generell attraktiver, wenn der Drucker mal etwas mehr ruhe geben würde. Ich habe bereits gehört, dass ein RADS Board mit entspby DeathmannX - Elektrik & Elektronik