It looks like it may be tied to your Z_Axis threaded rod/lead screw. If you manually raise and lower the Z_Axis, can you see the nozzle tip describing a circle as it travels up and down the rod/screw? I'm assuming a single Z_Axis screw drive rather than a twin screw which I don't think would give a perfect spiral as the screws would interact with each other in some way. My two cents. Play Bonby Soadyheid - Reprappers
I had the same sort of problem with the plastic arm so I fitted a metal one (You couldn't adjust the pressure of the extruder hobbed gear on the filament) The metal one allows you to adjust the pressure to somewhere between preventing the feed gear either gnawing the filament or stalling the feed stepper.) I suggest you check out This Print Quality Guide to get some ideas on how to resolve youby Soadyheid - Prusa i3 and variants
OK, there's a possibility that you have a motherboard problem but before spending a load of money, can you check the hot end thermistor? I don't have the same printer as you (I have a GeeeTech Prusa i3 Pro where I had problems with the hot bed. The temperature on switch on should display the ambient temperature of both the hot end and the hot bed plus the default temperatures you've set when hby Soadyheid - Prusa i3 and variants
How are you driving your printer? If you're using Repetier-Host over a USB serial link you can change the default 3D display of the print volume to show the temperature curve instead. You get a scrolling 60 minute display and can select extruder, bed plus output extruder and output bed which display the temperature and the power cycling. It's highlighted a probable hot end thermistor problem oby Soadyheid - Printing
I've no idea if this would be of any use to you but it's ideal for creating lithophanes (sort of 3D pictures) Check this out. All you need to do is supply the image via the website, configure how you want the print, then hit download to get the .stl file. You may be able to edit it into your project. Play Bonny! Soadyheidby Soadyheid - 3D Design tools
The Y-Axis belt being too tight can cause motor stalling and therefore layer shifting. A tight belt with a high print speed will make the problem worse. (The print speed(S) are set in your slicer configuration.) Check out Simplify3D's Print quality Troubleshooter for more information. Hope that helps! Play Bonny! Soadyheidby Soadyheid - Prusa i3 and variants
I'd go with a loose belt too. Possible binding of the bearings on the smooth rods causing the motor to stall? (does the hot bed move smoothly when you move it by hand?) Has it ever printed correctly or is this a new occurrence? Play Bonny! Soadyheidby Soadyheid - Prusa i3 and variants
I reckon the 0mm height clearance. The Z-Axis is usually designed to only move in one direction during printing. You'd probably have problems if it returned to its zero coordinate to print the second object. Assuming you had two objects, say 8 to 10cm tall, and it prints the objects sequentially as you'd like, the Z-Axis would have to drop to 0cm to start the second object which would cause theby Soadyheid - General
The nearest thing I can find is Inconsistent extrusion, check out the link and see what you think. Possibly some sort of clogging of the nozzle? Try manually cleaning it out with a cleaning pin if you have one. My two cents... Play Bonny Soadyheidby Soadyheid - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote I tried to push it down by hand, nope This, to me, indicates that the filament isn't loaded into the extruder properly. I've had the same thing happen a couple of times when changing reels. (I've a Geeetech Acrylic Prusa i3 Pro B ) The end of the filament comes off the reel curved so when you poke it through the feed hole it doesn't feed into the top of the extruder tube properly. Try sby Soadyheid - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm running an acrylic Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B which I purchased from Amazon, (4.9 stars from 48 reviewers!) and must say I'm quite impressed. I checked out the straightness of the smooth rod and Z axis screws straightening them slightly with an arrow straightener before assembly which seems to have paid off. I fitted the aluminium Mk8 extruder kit to allow me to adjust the filament pinch rollby Soadyheid - Reprappers
Not quite sure what you mean but from the 3dprinter.png drawing the axies would be defined as: X: left to right - Max size from "Printer geometry.PNG" is 200mm Y: front to back - Max size from "Printer geometry.PNG" is 200mm Z: down to up - Max size from "Printer geometry.PNG" is 180mm Is this what you mean?? Play Bonny! Soadyheidby Soadyheid - Prusa i3 and variants
Your % infill is incorporated in the GCode file when you do the conversion from STL to GCode using your slicer software, it's one of the slicer parameters. You can't adjust it during a print. Play Bonny! Soadyheid.by Soadyheid - General
As Floyd says, you need to set up your Z-Axis home switch first which will determine the height between your hot end nozzle and the print bed. Then you need to ensure that the print bed is level, i.e. the nozzle to print bed distance should be constant at all positions around the print bed. The distance is equivalent to the thickness of a sheet of paper, approx 0.1mm. The best place to find videby Soadyheid - Printing
All I can see from your video is that the X-Axis belt is very slack which is probably why your print starts in one place (very shaky circles!!) then ends up printing off to the left. Probably jumping teeth on the stepper drive pulley. Tighten it! I'd also check that the Y-Axis belt is tight as well. Please note that if you have further problems and want to share a video, don't just show the pby Soadyheid - Reprappers
I stand corrected then. QuoteI suspect Soadyheid is looking at the wrong thing... the D1 in question is on the ramps board, not the stepper driver itself. Nothing in this post indicated that a Ramps board was involved, The only D1 relating to A4988 driver boards was found here,( Pololu as mentioned). A4988 schematic LoroParrot only mentioned Stepper drivers and D1 hence my post. Best guessby Soadyheid - Reprappers
QuoteHi, I've disconnected the D1 diode because it was overheating the voltage regulator and i'm feeding the Arduino via the DC input. D1, from the circuit diagram looks like a zenner diode which is setting the bias on the voltage regulator to generate Vmm? So it looks like no D1, no Vmm, no power to the motors? Vref (bottom left) should be about 0.8V to give a drive current of about 1 Amp,by Soadyheid - Reprappers
Surely, unlike the Z and Y axies, the "speed" of the Z axis depends on the amount of time it takes to print each layer of the print before it steps up to the next layer? If the area of each layer is large, the Z axis will take longer before it steps to the next layer once the current one completes. So you'll get a 0.2mm step (for a 0.3mm nozzle size) on completion of each layer. In this respectby Soadyheid - Reprappers
Starting with the easy stuff... Looks like the Prusa i3 Mk2 uses the RAMBo mini card looking at the Pruas website, would that be correct? Looking at the card, there appear to be three plug in fuses, 2 x 5A and 1 x 15A. Have you checked them? If this is the correct card, it looks like your motor driver chips are built in to the board and not add on daughter boards so if one was blown you'd needby Soadyheid - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote1.Will the firmware already be built in to the motherboard? I'd assume "yes" You don't want to be bothering about loading firmware till you have a reason. If you bought a new PC would you just switch it on or would you want to upgrade the firmware (which could turn it into a brick!) Connect the board up and test the printer. Quote2.Are the printer settings loaded together with the STL fileby Soadyheid - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteHaven't used my printer in a little while as I've been busy with other projects If the printer's been sitting doing nothing for an extended period, you should perhaps check the X and Y axis belt tensions. I'm guessing you may get the problems if they've slackened off slightly? Play Bonny! Soadyheid.by Soadyheid - Printing
Quote i think my nozzle is a 0.4mm already, I thought the same when I got my Geeetech. Check the nozzle, it has the size teaped on to it, turns out mine is a 0.3mm one. I started with the fuzzy prints with a 0.4mm setting but have now changed the settings in Slic3r to the correct value. Much better prints! I also had problems with the extruder with the so called "clicking " problem (stallingby Soadyheid - Printing
Is the home position off in all three axis or just Z? Assuming Z only, from your post... Is the screw which activates the Z axis endstop loose, i.e. the screw is not being held in a fixed position because the spring is not compressed? If the screw becomes loose the extruder will be too low and hit the glass. I think I had to fit a 40mm screw rather than the 30mm one in the instructions to get tby Soadyheid - Prusa i3 and variants
I bought a LED spotlight from IKEA which clips to the right side of my Geeetech i3 Pro B. Only £10.00. Great for lighting the print bed! (Mine's black.) Play Bonny! Soadyheidby Soadyheid - Look what I made!
@Allan As VonRansak says, you shouldn't hijack someone else's thread. Start your own to get a better response. However... You'd need to supply better information when posting it. What operating system are you using? Windows? OSX? Linux? Each has different serial drivers. Windows and Mac you need to load drivers for a USB to Serial connection, in Linux, the drivers are probably already builby Soadyheid - Prusa i3 and variants
If it worked fine before you stripped the nozzle down it's likely to be something you did during the process. Changing a load of electrical variables is probably going to take you further from the resolution. What you did was mechanical so I'd be looking there rather than an electrical adjustment. Have you got an adjustable feed tension spring? Did you remove it during the strip down? If so,by Soadyheid - Printing
Do you not have an adjustable idler pulley which can be used to tighten the belts? Play Bonny! Soadyheidby Soadyheid - Reprappers