Is this a direct drive or bowden tube? if it's bowden, have you tried a new tube?by calaban - General
I was running 12v heaters for a long time on my 24v power supply. I then realize that they were 12v because I got around to measuring the resistance. The caveat was that in Marlin I had to turn the max power way down because at full power it would over shoot and go into thermal runaway during the PID tuning. So it is possible but they heat up crazy fast. It was set way low. #define BANG_MAX 5by calaban - General
Is your filament 4 years old too? I had some bad quality PLA that was doing something similar.by calaban - General
I had the same thermistor issues with the glass bead type thermistor and used Type 11 (100k beta 3950 1% thermistor) Then there was a short and it killed my SKR. Upgraded to HT-NTC100K Thermistor cartridge type to avoid shorting. Everyone was using type 11 or 13. I had crazy temperature swings. I didn't trust the temp tables. What I ended up doing was putting a thrmocouple probe down the throatby calaban - General
Fair point. Again the QC stinks and we should be aware that a good number will be junk. I guess I was trying to get at is if you go to say a TriangleLabs, do their nozzles have better quality? Probably a bit better??? I suppose the best bet is still go with the name brand like e3d and you won't be miserable.by calaban - General
With all the various brands of brass nozzles out there like the Chinese ones on ebay or Amazon to genuine e3d nozzles, is there a brand that has good performance that won't break the bank?? A few months ago not knowing anything I was tempted by quantity vs quality. I got excited to buy 30 nozzles for $8 on amazon. Tho it is nice to have the spares and the variety of sizes, but I rarely needed toby calaban - General
I finally gave up and just set the bed to use bang bang. It heats up fast and it works.by calaban - General New Machines Topics
I also tried using the enclosure plugin, I could not get anything to work. I followed this guide and got the NeoPixel to work right off my SKR.by calaban - General
I have a Creality 235x235 24v bed and it takes about 2.5 min to get to 70c. Now that being said, I still can't use the PID to run the bed. When I enable the PID heat up times jump to ~25min. This is even after I run the tuning.by calaban - General
Ok, it's all related to how the PID settings I suspect. I disabled the PID Settings and it took a about 2:30 min to get to 70c, but it was not nearly as as stable when using the PID settings. The temp would go between 73 and 68 constantly. I ran the auto tune several times and when I use those settings, heat up time always takes forever to heat on the order of 15-20 min, but it's stable. What amby calaban - General New Machines Topics
I think the root of my issues came down to width and height. I'm using a .6 nozzle and I nearly maxed out the width to .84 and taller layers seems to yield much better results. My last print was at .42 layers, which seem to be having some good results.by calaban - Printing
I did insulate the bottom. That didn't make any significantly faster. I suppose I was just trying to figure out if I got a bad one or not. I may have...by calaban - General New Machines Topics
I think I found my answer. I think my bed is not way out of spec I suppose. I was reading around and found an article that references the heat up times. "In comparison, the CR-10 heats up much more slowly than the Ender 3. Comparisons across the community show that the CR-10 heats up 80°C in about 20 minutes, while the Ender 3 can go high at 120 C in about 15 minutes. The difference can be acby calaban - General New Machines Topics
I was having so much trouble with sticking and blobbing. I think I have many of my issues solved. Running the heat bed hotter helped with the adhesion, I turned it up from 60 to 70c. As for the blobbing I enabled the coasting in Cura and adjusted the settings to .6^3 so that really reduced the blobbing. I'll try the wipe again. "Minimize the retracts done. There are usually settings whereby calaban - Printing
Does anyone know how long it should take for a Creality 24v heatbed to get hot? Seems like for me it's taking ~15min to get to 60c.by calaban - General New Machines Topics
I'm having terrible print quality with PETG. I'm using 3d Solutech PETG. I can get good consistent first layer sticking and anything that is printed in vase mode come out great. The issues arise when you try to print anything with infill is where the trouble starts to appear. I'm having a terrible blobbing issue when the infill starts to print. There are blobs being deposited in pretty much the sby calaban - Printing
Dust, thank you for your help. I think I have it sorted. TLR in a dual extruder set up with a part cooling fan, you need to move the part cooling fan to the CNC fan pin and add two additional MOSFETS OR use the same signal pin for both fans and reduce some of the wiring and additional boards and not consume a PIN. This is what I changed. #define E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN P1_26 //-1 #define E1_AUTO_FAby calaban - Controllers
So, my printer has a dual extruder setup. HE0 connected to pin 2.7 HE1 connected to pin 2.4 HE0 fan connected to pin 2.3 HE1 fan is connected via a MOSFET triggering using Pin 1.28 I would like to add a part cooling fan that is controlled via the parameters in the slicer. I connected a fan using a MOSFET again and define pin 1.26 in the FANMUX section. Should the part cooler be connectedby calaban - Controllers
I'm running a SKR1.3 with Marlin 2.x, I can't seem to get the part cooling fan configured correctly. I have a PWM mosfet connected to pin 1.26 as the trigger. In my configuration_adv.h file, I have the Part cooling fan set as #define FANMUX0_PIN P1_26 //-1 #define FANMUX1_PIN -1 #define FANMUX2_PIN -1 However when you run M43, the pin debugging commad you see that it does not know that the piby calaban - Controllers