Honestly then I was doing my printing was in 2011 and all in PLA, the fan on/near extruder was a prototype addon. I've got a few small fans lying around so I'll add one on once I get printing purely because it seems to be the norm, but I've yet to read up on the best practices for fans. I'd wait for someone else to answer though as they will know more then me.by JoeDaStudd - General
QuoteArchelon QuoteJoeDaStudd Have you checked out eMakershop? Greg Colbourn is selling a complete set for £325.00 (£30 extra for the aluminium version) with £30 shipping and includes everything (inc psu and glass). Works out about €430/$590. There are also a few other kits on there from other sellers too. I'm waiting on an invoice hardware and upgrade kit from him as I type, I've not heard anyby JoeDaStudd - General
Have you checked out eMakershop? Greg Colbourn is selling a complete set for £325.00 (£30 extra for the aluminium version) with £30 shipping and includes everything (inc psu and glass). Works out about €430/$590. There are also a few other kits on there from other sellers too. I'm waiting on an invoice hardware and upgrade kit from him as I type, I've not heard anything bad about him and he hasby JoeDaStudd - General
Thanks for the replies. I've just priced up a conversion kit (well sourced a suppliers and got quotes) and it looks like I should be able to get it all for sub £90 as long as I cut the wood myself. Which includes GT2 pulleys and belts as well as a lm8uu upgrade Can someone please confirm my current Wades extruder will work on the prusa i3? Looks like this (not mine just the closest I could findby JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
The prusa i3 does look great. tbh I wouldn't trust the plastics on the clips or frame supports to last long enough to get a full set of prints. Is there any hardware difference between the i1 and i3? ie would I need longer threads or anything.by JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
Hi, A few years ago I built a Prusa v1 and printed quite a bit with it, however after moving rooms and various other things happening (my niece being born and living in the same house) it got stored away. About 12 months or so back I changed the print bed to a heated print bed and electronics then did a few test prints which where ok. However upon closer inspection some of the printed parts wereby JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
1. Has been answered Prusa i2 only uses 3 bushings/bearings for the print bed. 2. For the extruder I believe. 3. All bolts and nuts are given to the cheapest option. 40 nuts will cost the same if not more then 50 and allow you to lose a nut or two. Plus Prusa i2 moves away from M4's in favour of M3.by JoeDaStudd - General
When I build my RAMPS 1.4 last year I used the test code from here which cycles the steppers and heaters (It might send the thermistor values, but I honestly never checked). It's probably the test code which nophead's was shipped withby JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
If your willing to self built and source I second the Mendel90 or Prusa i3 (once documentation for i3 is released/created). Having said are priced extremely well and would be a good starting block if you wanted a low cost entry printer with expansion options.by JoeDaStudd - General
davew_tx Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Anyone have a link to Julianh7 build blog? > a search didn't turn up results. > > maybe I'm not handy enough to be on here. As for the main question, there are simply too many options, budgets and locations to give a definitive answer. When I built my RepRap last year I used various suppliers to get the besby JoeDaStudd - General
Check that the belt isn't slipping to off the bearing. I had the same issue with the X axis, I'd reset it before a print then wonder why it kept happeningby JoeDaStudd - General
I highly doubt fasberdashery would leak their source as they (in my experience) have the best PLA in the UK, if not EU. Sure if they could drop the price and offer spools, bare in mind this would increase the postage cost by a fair bit, it would be amazing. However doing so would eat into their profits and run the risk of losing such a great supplier. I'd much rather spend £30 on 100m good qualby JoeDaStudd - General
First where did you buy your PLA from? Some suppliers use a slightly different variations needing upto 230C. See this article. As for the skipping check your stepper drivers are calibrated correctly, too much or too little current will lead to issues.by JoeDaStudd - General
For the cube you want to keep the temperature fairly low and keep the speeds low as well. If your still having issues it could be the extruder isn't calibrated correctly (oozing or not retracting enough on the z lifts) this guide should help a lot.by JoeDaStudd - General
Yep Nophead's z couplings are pretty much a standard (Prusa i2 has them) now as they work so well. Its also worth cable/zip tying the z axis motors (for Prusa atleast) instead of bolting them in as it allows for a little wiggle room.by JoeDaStudd - General
As far I was aware Prusa just took all the best mods then integrated them into one design. As much as I love the Mendel90 design, I think it moves away too much from the RepRap concept as the backplate increases the volume of non-printable's on the machine. Especially if you look at i2 vs i3. Still its one to watch.by JoeDaStudd - General
If I remember rightly you want the temperature to be slightly higher for the first few layers (ensure the print sticks). After those layers you drop the temperature slightly, but never down to room temperature until the print has set. Otherwise as xiando said you run the risk of the print detaching from the printbed.by JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
Hi, I stopped working with/on my Prusa back about April time. Apart from making it a nice platform to sit on and a shortening a few wires I've not touched it. I'm wanting to get my Prusa back up and printing again (should still work ), however I'm sure things have changed. First firmware, just before I took a break I made the switch to Marlin (from Sprinter) and the difference was pretty big.by JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
I blew one by inserting it back to front and had another DOA (could have been due to the first accident). I've seen a test rig for stepsticks/pololu's which used push on connectors. The connectors looked about 2mm with slightly pointed heads (so they stayed in place). I'll try and dig up a photo, if I can remember where I saw it.by JoeDaStudd - General
Are you using Sprinter or Marlin? Marlin produces far smoother circles and rounded edges. Try re-lubing the smooth rods.by JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
ebcdic, you mean Z right? It should be the first layer height from the print bed. There are a ton of different designs on thingiverse. Find one which suits you.by JoeDaStudd - General
Make sure your calibrating the gap when the nozzle is at your print temperature. I use a piece of blue tape folded over then flattened as the guide measure, it doesn't burn like paper does and its the right width for my nozzle (0.5mm).by JoeDaStudd - General
1. Well the wiki is probably one of the best places to start in terms of RepRap. If you want the information in a more general flowing read then this is very good. 3. I would start with either a Prusa i2, Mendel Max (if you need the larger build area) or Mendel90 (should scale well). They are all pretty well documented (Prusa especially) and everyone is very helpful on the IRC as well as theseby JoeDaStudd - General
richgain Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Have you watched nophead's video? > I wish I had seen this before I wired my Huxley. I > ended up leaving some of the the wires too long > and then soldered them as well with the result > that the pins wouldn't go right to of the end of > the socket. > I made the Mendel90 after watching this video and &by JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
1) Reprap, modelling or 3d printing in general? 2) It depends on the design if you need a lot of overhangs then its worth looking dual heads. 3) What's your budget, is 12+ build area an essential and are you willing to build/source it yourself?by JoeDaStudd - General
^ its a pretty good place to start, not sure when it was last updated though. How mini are you talking? The small figurines are a little too small and detailed a the moment. Some of the larger vehicles and terrain items should print fine. Check out the models done on Thingiverse, I believe there is a warhammer tank on there. Its up to you. The whole experience is very rewarding as well as educby JoeDaStudd - General
Check the motors are correctly calibrated, if they aren't they can skip steps. Once the motors are calibrated correctly then re-calibrate the x and y axis. As rhmorrison said it should be calibrated to a far greater degree. If your still having issues check the belts are tight enough and that they aren't slipping.by JoeDaStudd - Reprappers
Most hotend designs are build to allow a fair amount of fluctuation on the input diameter (about 5 to 10% as far as I can gather). One of the biggest issues related to size is if the diameter varies along the length of the filament. As the software has calculates the amount of filament needed based on a user entered value (measured filament diameter). If the filament varies in diameter some sectby JoeDaStudd - General
Thingfarm used (last year) to sell pretty much everything you needed to build a prusa (excluding plastic parts), but they seemed to have cut back there catalogue massively. If you have a few hours spare its worth trying to source the parts separately as it will save you a lot of money and you'll get exactly what you want. At the moment its the EU sites (much lower shipping costs and better deliveby JoeDaStudd - General