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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
1.1.8 wont upload - 6 years ago
I downloaded the latest version to try out the mesh bed leveling but i can not get it to upload to my machine. When i click upload it stops in the "SanityCheck.h" file on the line that reads "static_assert(X_MAX_LENGTH >= X_BED_SIZE && Y_MAX_LENGTH >= Y_BED_SIZE," . I have modified the bed size and software limits in configuration.h to no avail. If i try and upload from a freshby GITRDUN - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Marlin settings to home in + direction - 8 years ago
Tried that already. Everything works fine if i set it up as homing in the - direction. But when i reverse the axis direction and set the X homing to + instead of - it just doesnt work.by GITRDUN - General
Marlin settings to home in + direction - 8 years ago
I cant seem to figure out how to get Marlin to home in the + direction rather than -. My X axis has the home switch on the + side. Switched my end stop connection to the X+ pins on the ramps board but still doesnt work. X doesnt even try to home. Why is this so confusing?by GITRDUN - General
Re: Full graphics smart controller dim when not connected to USB - 8 years ago
That was it. I had 3V on my 5V pins. The 5V regulator on my Arduino aparently is weak. Switched out the Arduino and whoala.by GITRDUN - General
Full graphics smart controller dim when not connected to USB - 8 years ago
I purchased the full graphics smart controller and got it working, had to upgrade to latest marlin to get it to go but anyways. Once it was working i noticed as soon as i disconnect the USB cord from my laptop the screen on the controller stays bright blue but the letters on the screen are so dim you can just barely see them at all. I can navigate through the menus and move the printer axes and sby GITRDUN - General
Re: Win Xp compatibility? - 8 years ago
Ah, i downloaded the X64 version. That was it. Thanks.by GITRDUN - Slic3r
Win Xp compatibility? - 8 years ago
I am running Windows XP and the latest version on Slic3r says not a valid win32 application when i try and run it. I havent used slic3r for a couple years and thought id try out the latest version. Is there a work around or is it a lost cause?by GITRDUN - Slic3r
Re: outer corners not sharp - 8 years ago
I did a lot of tinkering with parameters this evening and turned out i was over extruding by about 10% to start with. It got much better once that was set right.by GITRDUN - General
outer corners not sharp - 8 years ago
Ive had to adjust my XY jerk and accel settings in Marlin and my corners are now kinda blobby looking rather than sharp. If i up the jerk and accel the corners look great but the machine will miss a step eventually while printing. I understand its the extruder lagging behind when the print head slows down for a sharp corner and ends up over extruding on the corners. But what can be adjusted to geby GITRDUN - General
Made a new X carriage for wades extruder - 8 years ago
I made an X carriage for 8mm rods that will accept a Wades extruder. Have not printed it and assembled it yet, my machine is having fits at the moment. If anyone tries it before i do let me know if it needs any changes.by GITRDUN - Smart_Rap
Re: Extruder question - 8 years ago
The flexdrive is a pertty smart idea. I cant get the cad.onshape website to work on my computers. The openGL isnt working. Ill go ahead and plan on making an adapter for my wades and just see how it goes. If it turns out to be a pig with the extra weight ill look into the bowden or something else.by GITRDUN - Smart_Rap
Re: Extruder question - 8 years ago
Well after reading the thread just below this one i guess theres no model available. So i guess ill be making one. I hoped this build was going to be an easy no need to mod build.by GITRDUN - Smart_Rap
Extruder question - 8 years ago
Ive printed most of the parts i need for my 8mm rod smartrap build. However all i find are bowden extruders for this design. Havent been able to find an extruder made to mount to the X carriage. I have no experience with bowdens and really have no interest in using that in my build. Before i spend a lot of time modelling a new X carriage or an adapter to mount my Wades extruder with does anyone kby GITRDUN - Smart_Rap
Smartcore help - 8 years ago
Think i posted this in the wrong forum origionally. Fixing to start building my first core XY machine. This one - . Ive built a Prusa mendel, Prusa air and a couple Prusa I3 machines. Im sick of the flimsy designed Prusa's and ready to move on to something better. I have a couple questions. I dont get along well with the openscad software. Maybe im getting to old for all the new fangled computby GITRDUN - Smart_Rap
Smartcore help - 8 years ago
Fixing to start building my first core XY machine. Ive built a Prusa mendel, Prusa air and a couple Prusa I3 machines. Im sick of the flimsy designed Prusa's and ready to move on to something better. I have a couple questions. I dont get along well with the openscad software. Maybe im getting to old for all the new fangled computer stuff i dont know. I want to use 8mm rods but it looks like theby GITRDUN - CoreXY Machines
Re: Would like to convert Prusa to a boxed machine - 8 years ago
I have been reading the coreXY forum here and found the smartcore info. I like the design. Looks like a major upgrade in rigidity and not to complex or expensive. Heres the one i have been contemplating . I am working over one of my Prusa I3 machines to try and get it up to par but id still like to convert my other to something that is maybe the next step up.by GITRDUN - General
Would like to convert Prusa to a boxed machine - 8 years ago
I have a couple Prusa I3 machines i built and i am thinking about gutting the electronics and motors to use in a different type of machine. I cant seem to find any open source designs that are what im looking for. I would like to make something similar to the Folgertech clone machine. . I could design and build everything from scratch but it would save a lot of time and frustration to go with soby GITRDUN - General
Auto level not level - 8 years ago
I have two prusa I3 printers i have built in the past. I was using a servo with a limit switch mounted on an arm for the bed auto level. I always had issues with the print not being perfectly level with the bed even when using the auto level feature. I replaced my servo and limit switches with proximity switches hoping that was causing the inaccuracy. I still have the same problem on both machineby GITRDUN - General
Re: Endstop switches: mechanical or opto ? - 9 years ago
Almost all CNC machines use mechanical endstops for the axes. Some of these machines cost upwards of $100k and much more. If mechanical works good enough for those its good enough for my $500 printer. If opto was more reliable or more accurate i gaurantee they would be using those instead.by GITRDUN - General
Re: Printing nuts, bolts & screws - Is it possible? (Complete Newbie!) - 9 years ago
It can be done obviously. I tried this awhile back just to see and uploaded to Thingverse. . The problem with printing real threads is you first have to model a real thread, thats not as easy as it sounds and if you are a novice at 3d modeling it will be a major obsticle. And as far as usefulness. Forget it, theres no use in a plastic bolt when you can go to the hardware store and buy a bag fullby GITRDUN - General
Re: Just how good are printed linear bearings? - 9 years ago
I used printed bearings on one of my printers for a long time. Worked perfectly well. However, i dont care what anybody says there is no comparison with true linear bearings. If you dont mind spending a little more, use the LM8UU.by GITRDUN - General
Re: Auto level weird problem - 9 years ago
Sounds like your print surface is not completely flat, maybe a little bow to it or something or one corner doops. I have the same trouble. The bed leveling feature can only compensate for a completely flat plane, it doesnt compensate for a print surface that has a bulge in the middle for example. This is why its really pointless to probe more than 3 or 4 points.by GITRDUN - General
Re: Using Z probe for home switch only - 9 years ago
I removed the G29 from my code and it homed Z using the probe and ran normally. I could have sworn i tried that already and it didnt work. Problem solved.by GITRDUN - General
Using Z probe for home switch only - 9 years ago
I have a servo driven Z probe for auto bed leveling with Marlin but i would like to disable the bed leveling feature temporarily. The problem is i dont think i can use the probe as the Z axis home switch. Or can i? Is there a way to do that?by GITRDUN - General
Re: Leveled Bed >> Auto-Leveling Probe - 9 years ago
Ive been printing for a couple years and i can honestly say the auto bed level feature has drasticaly simplified printing. A level bed and having the Z height spot on for the first layer are two of the most important things to get a good print. The best upgrade ive made by far. Its a dream to be able to just click print and not have to stop the print and relevel the bed over and over and mess witby GITRDUN - General
Re: commercial extruder vs conventional - 9 years ago
Ok. Im a little lost with all of the math equation for the z steps. Wouldnt it be easier to just write in the actual steps per mm instead of using a formula? Or is that what you are saying is the problem? For instance, my Z steps in Marlin are (10000/1.25) . I have 5mm x .8 threaded rods. My actual steps are 8000 but when i changed it to read (8000.) it went a little whacky so i left the /1.25 inby GITRDUN - General
commercial extruder vs conventional - 9 years ago
Are there any high quality commercial extruders out there for the repraps. And if there are, is their print quality really any better than the standard Wades or Greggs extruder most of us make ourselves? Main reason i ask is i am fighting very light banding and i just cant seem to nail the problem down. I am thinking it is my Wades extruder causing the problem but i have no way to verify it witby GITRDUN - General
Re: Drilling nozzle hole - 9 years ago
Aha. I re-read your post. Aparently i missed the links to the video showing how to use a graver to center spot the part. Never seen that before. Looks simple enough, i think i will give that a try.by GITRDUN - General
Re: Drilling nozzle hole - 9 years ago
I did watch that video a few days ago actually. I have a hard time getting that hair sized drill bit to find center holding it by hand. Maybe its just me. Maybe if i had something practical to hold the drill with it would be much easier. Also you can hit dead center with a drill this small and still end up with the hole off center by a large margin where it breaks through on the other side if youby GITRDUN - General