The simplest idea i came up with was to thread the external groove mount area on the hot end and then just screw on a thin panel nut. This would clamp the hot end to the plate. Quick and easy.by GITRDUN - General
Building an I3. Is the single plate version really rigid enough? Looks rather flimsy to me.by GITRDUN - General Mendel Topics
That sounds a little over my head. I was hoping for something easy. If i were to buy new matching boards i probably would be more inclined to look into upgrading to running from a flash card. Thanks.by GITRDUN - Controllers
I have two printers both using Arduino Mega 2560 boards, one has a board about a year older than the other. When i try and connect to the newer board my laptop doesnt recognize it. If i install the latest Arduino drivers it will connect and works fine. But then it doesnt recognize the older Mega board using the upgraded driver. I would like to be able to use the same laptop to move from one printby GITRDUN - Controllers
I have two printers both using Arduino Mega 2560 boards, one has a board about a year older than the other. When i try and connect to the newer board my laptop doesnt recognize it. If i install the latest Arduino drivers it will connect and works fine. But then it doesnt recognize the older Mega board using the upgraded driver. I would like to be able to use the same laptop to move from one printby GITRDUN - General
I print holes and hand tap them all the time. The trick is to use a spiral fluted tap, it pulls the plastic chips out as you tap and hand taps quite easily. I have had very little luck trying to use a conventional tap, it ends up jamming with plastic and chews the threads out. As far as strength it ends up just as strong as threads in a solid piece of plastic IMO.by GITRDUN - General
I would double check your E calibration. When the extruder calibration is a little thin that happens on smaller holes. Print a single wall width part and measure the wall width to make sure its what its suposed to be.by GITRDUN - General
I tried it and i get an error that it is not a valid win32 aplication. Any chance you can make it compatible with winXP 32? And IMO software is a valid way to eliminate backlash. Heck i run a shop with about 20 CNC machines and every one of them use software to account for backlash. If its good enough for a $100,000 CNC machine its good enough for me.by GITRDUN - Skeinforge
The backlash option is the only reason i am toying with Skeinforge right now. If your tool works well i will use it 100% and keep using Slic3r for now. I to am not able to get less than about .010" of lash in my machines. Ive built two machines and bought one and they all have about the same amount of lash.by GITRDUN - Skeinforge
Ok so in here with my hat in hand again. I have everything working except i can not get the start.gcode to load into the header when i slice a model. I have it enabled under Alteration, and i have the file named correctly and have it located in the directory .../skeinforge_aplication/alterations . What am i missing now.by GITRDUN - Skeinforge
I did get it to go finally. Im not sure what changed but it did take it. Got one good print then the next print was moving at like .5mm/sec towards the bed center after homing to start the print and was all out of whack. Couldnt get it to slice correct again, will try some more tonight. I like having all the options but the descriptions are so weird its difficult to know what changes what.by GITRDUN - Skeinforge
I'm trying to slice with skeinforge and then load the g code with pronterface. Pronterface is giving errors when loading the g code saying codes aren't recognized and such. I'm new to skeinforge so I am not sure what's going on and having a hard time finding info on my problem.by GITRDUN - Skeinforge
Anyone tried using smaller diameter screws on Z axis to aleviate Z wobble? I know i read a thread about this topic a long time ago but i cant find anything. I would think smaller screws would flex more and put less stress on the X ends and Z rods if things arent 100% exactly in line. Im tired of fighting with it and looking for an easy solution.by GITRDUN - General
Easiest way i know to polish steel rods is to chuck them into a hand drill and run a scotch brite pad up and down the rod until it is smooth as silk. Sand paper can be a bit to aggressive. When buying stainless steel rod the foundary tolerences can be a problem. One batch might be a hair bigger or smaller than another. Its best to buy ground and poished if you can or if you dont mind spending tby GITRDUN - General
Remove your idler and try pushing the filament in by hand. A good hot end should be easy to extrude by hand. If it takes a lot of effort then either your temperature is to cold or for some reason your nozzle is clogging. I have one hot end that takes almost no effort at all to push filament through, others take a bit of pushing but not much.by GITRDUN - General
I used printed PLA bushings on a Prusa for almost a year. I made mine square on the ID so there was only 4 places of contact with the rod and used them on the X carriage. Worked fine but it did have a little more drag than it needed to have. The ones linked to on Thingiverse look great. Biggest issue with printing bushings is you better have your machine calibrated spot on and cant have any backlby GITRDUN - General
I think a reprap could be used like an engraver maybe, but accurately milling metals to even .005" tolerances would be a lot of trouble. IMO it would be easier to start with a small table top milling machine and modify it for 3d printing. I have some older cnc machines ive thought of modding to a 3d printer. But weighing in at 6k LBS for a small machine is a bit overkill for a printer.by GITRDUN - General
I dont know if you mean the cut chips are sticking to the metal or just getting thrown everywhere and causing an issue. I can tell you that when milling aluminum you must climb mill it rather than conventional milling or the chips will be carried around by the cutting tool and get stuck back on to the metal behind the tool after the cut. I would think the same process would apply to a circular saby GITRDUN - General
I know from my model RC ducted fan days that the duct diameter is dependant on the fan swept area. Fan swept area is the diameter of the fan blade minus the fixed stator or fan nose. For higher air speed out the duct you can go down to 85% FSA but it will load your fan motor more and i doubt these little tiny fans can overcome much air packing inside the duct. The most efficient you can get is arby GITRDUN - General
Ive been stumped on what is the best way to route the extruder and hot end wires from the X carriage. Do most people just run it through a plastic wire loom to get the flex or what? I have two printers and tidying up the messy wires would go a long way in making them look a little less like printers made from scrap pieces.by GITRDUN - General
With black Ultimachine PLA i printed around 185C, with Ultimachine white PLA i ended up around 195C, then switched to some white PLA from ebay and now im at 200C+. Thats with the nozzle that feeds easily. I just ran a print on the newer nozzle at 230C, it printed fine and looks great. I dont know, i guess ill keep printing at that temp and see where it leads. I just cant help but feel that it shoby GITRDUN - General
Thermistor and resistor are the same, the heater block is aluminum on the origional and brass on the new one i built. I wouldnt think that the temperatures would be any different but i dont know, the thermistor should read correctly whether its mounted in aluminum or brass wouldnt it? And 210C is 210C whether the metal is aluminum or brass, or am i wrong? It doesnt blow steam out or anything atby GITRDUN - General
I made a j-head last year and it is still printing flawlessly daily. Couple months ago i made some more and there seems to be a huge difference in the amount of pressure it takes to hand feed filament between the first one i made and the new batch. The first one feeds so easily it takes almost no pressure,the new ones take a lot of force and are having problems with filament jamming in the melt cby GITRDUN - General
So just wondering why we dont wrap the timing belts around the timing gears one loop rather than the way its commonly connected. Thought i would ask before i spend a couple days wasting my time experimenting as im sure its been tried before and if it worked better wouldnt we all be doing it that way already? Does it wear the belts prematurely, cause more drag, take more torque to work or what?by GITRDUN - General
I was plauged with jam after jam when using a MG hotend but after switching to a J-head the non user cuased jams are all but gone. Almost all jams i have now are caused by running the first layer to low to the bed. I can leave my hotend on at printing temp almost indefinately without a fan blowing and still prime and print without any problems. Heres a few things to check. 1. The teeth on yourby GITRDUN - General
To much filament causes that problem with me. Usually when i have my calibrations off a little, either extruder or XY. Also if the corners curl up a hair bit on the first layer it can do that.by GITRDUN - General
Got it. Not sure what was up ut its accepting new settings fine. Thanks.by GITRDUN - General
My eeprom storage setting was already turned off.by GITRDUN - General
Sorry, i am using Sprinter, on a Mega 2560 with ramps 1.4 . Ill check into the EEPROM settings.by GITRDUN - General