Ah...thank you for the explanation. I'm a bit surprised, but maybe I shouldn't be, and that would be compounded by dynamic loading if the print speed is high. I presume the same can be said for the threaded rod as well? you've presumably experienced some sort of impulse driven flexure due to discontinuous accelerations (directional reversals)? Are you still using the ~40-ish oz-in motors or haby xiando - General
Bear with me....In slic3r, there is a setting called "brim". Brim draws a single layer perimeter of a given width around the object, much like the "brim" of a hat. One specifies how wide the brim will be. The brim acts like tape to help reduce corner curl. The wider the brim, the more the effect should be pronounced. (free IP: it would be neat if we could assign more brim in areas more prone to lby xiando - General
usted es Bienvenido, pero por favor, comprenda que no soy un experto. Si usted necesita más ayuda, hay gente mucho más experta que yo. Uso Bing traductor o algo similar, si usted necesita o quiere escribir en su lengua materna. ¿Hace la vida mucho más fácil, sí? Buena suerteby xiando - Developers
I'm curious why you use such oversized threaded and smooth rod for this design. wouldn't 1/4" ( or 7mm) be better suited to such a small footprint design? And wouldn't the $$ savings be better spent on a precision rod rather than general purpose ACME to reduce backlash?by xiando - General
Here's a link to Joseph Prusas' online calculator.by xiando - Reprappers
I have both Jim Fotlzs' import and export utilities, and each has unit control.by xiando - 3D Design tools
Issaac: The answer may be here http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4#Power_Supply applicable text (En Espanol): Sin D1 instalado, o cuando el 12VIN no está conectado, el Arduino obtiene su energía de USB. Si quieres que tu equipo alimentado sin USB conectado te necesita soldar en D1 o conectar VCC a su fuente de alimentación. El pin VCC puede conectarse a 5Vsb de su ATX para alimentar continuamenteby xiando - Developers
"and throws an error." right. ok, just wanted to make sure I understood you correctly.by xiando - Reprappers
Here's an example thermistor curve to help you think about it. ( R is inversely proportional to temp.) Can't speak directly to *your thermistor, but otherwise, yeah...temp goes up resistance (should) go down.by xiando - Reprappers
Sucks to learn that way but fortunately it was a cheap lesson. I've smoked a few in my time too. Rule of thumb: If the ton and toff values aren't specified by a relay mfg, you should either use them as simple remote switches or choose another vendor. And keep that point about maximums in mind. It goes for FETs, voltage regulators, and other components as well. Max ratings generally refer to operby xiando - General
hmm... so does it still output path but generate the message (a code error), or does it fail to generate a path? (i wasn't sure what you meant)by xiando - Reprappers
SSRs suitable for use with PWM are rated as such. In my experience, relays like the one you referred to in your post above is suitable only for switching speeds of about 100Hz and below, and that' presuming that it's a FET based SSR, which is uncertain from the product description shown in the ebay sales link. It's not even a real one from the mfg who they cloned it from...(looks to me to be a clby xiando - General
yw. Drives me somewhat crazy when I see cryptic messages from programs (although that abbreviation was one I happened to recognize). If I were to offer the author feedback I'd suggest that they modify that message to read a bit clearer for a more general audience. The filesize load of additional 20 or 30 characters is minuscule in comparison to the effect of a user encountering what for many apby xiando - Reprappers
I'm not sure if there's any relation but I recall seeing a vaguely similar issue at some point while reading the forum and ended up at this link, which discusses a conflict issue with the Y-endstop and SD operation, which then outlines a solution, although for printrboard, not the ramps. In any case, maybe (or not) it relates. if not, sorry for the thread spam. Good luck.by xiando - General
I hadn't used KissSlicer before, but I just downloaded it after seeing your message and fired it up It's not a definitive answer, but more of a related observation...If I don't have a model loaded and click slice, lol and behold, I get a popup that says 'No paths to save' (in other words, as I suspected, KissSlicer is literally saying that "there are no cam tool paths for me to save") SO...firby xiando - Reprappers
Regarding the bearings... it depends on the bearings used. AFAIK, the LM8uus are pre (and possibly self) lubricated. Generally speaking, though, yes. Grease rather than oil. A good quality bearing grease rather than more common varieties. Packing your bearings rather than lubing the rail on which they ride. I can't comment on the remaining questionsby xiando - General
Tsalo, fair enough. I was forgetting that serious players (like stratasys, etc) aren't subject to quite as many of the delamination issues that the hobby printers seem to exhibit, so the inherent weakness the bending forces in many of the amateur prints are probably not evident in more professionally printed items (compressive strength isn't something I'm questioning at all, for all the obvious rby xiando - General
Yeah, I have a few linears (and a few switched-mode) that were pulls from industrial equipment that being overhauled, and were on their way to the dumpster, although perfectly serviceable. Nothing quite so juicy, but even so. solid power is a good thing, far better than computer supplies in my opinion. If they also happen to have any old din-rail terminal blocks they're pitching, it might be nicby xiando - General
Honestly, beyond this post, I don't intend to address any further questions from you, wherever they're posted. your attitude is typically adolescent and unworthy of my assistance.by xiando - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
If you had said you "already contacted Minebea" and if you had even posted the name of the mfg in the initial post, I wouldn't have bothered to respond in the first place. I think you're full of it and didn't, at least not until I provided that info to you. As for your insult, well, son, I think you're a classic example of a leach. (since you decided to get ugly about it that is)by xiando - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Not at all damaging, UNLESS you have a short circuit condition. Please make sure to apply appropriate fusing on it's output(s) to avoid potential fire safety issues in the event of a short circuit condition in your reprap. Overkill? Maybe...but I'd rather have a power supply with headroom (excess available power) than one that's either marginal (max output ~ equal to required) or one that IS undby xiando - General
Actually, I'm not sure that they "can't"... the point was that kits don't have to be CE marked. And it's important to remember that constituent parts CAN and are often required to be marked, at least for the USA wrt electrical "appliances", which require UL approval and would, I presume require similar CE approval in the EU. I built several kits as a kid that had UL approval markings on self-conby xiando - General
Impressive prints. Are the examples above printed using Z-axes made from common threaded rod, as is specified in the wiki, or did you guys substitute a better grade (or different mechanism) for the translation stage?by xiando - Reprappers
JRMN Wrote: > Anyone have a good source for springs? If you do a search (EDIT: ie, google etc) for "small springs" you'll find a variety of mfg and distributor channels that offer a wide variety of coil springs. You can choose the inner and outer diameter, length, compression force, etc. You do not have to defer to Home Depot or Lowes... An example company is Century Spring good luckby xiando - General
Meh. it's close enough in my book. If you need specific details on a part number not shown in that document, contact Minebea directly. That was the point to my "lecture". This is what engineers, designers and end-users have to do, or they get screwed by all the "good deals" being offered by unscrupulous import export houses selling devices without clear accompanying documentation. It was just aby xiando - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
The code can be decoded at the manufacture's website or by using their datasheets. Ime, they're most often mfg specific, although once you read how they use them, it all makes sense. They ARE listed as 1.8 degree, unipolar by Minebea (the mfg) I'll leave the rest to you. (see below) Funny thing is, if you'd just googled the part number, you'd have seen they're Minebea motors, and had you thenby xiando - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
"The J-Head did get pushed hard into the glass once when my z-stop slipped. ...So I am left to conclude at this point I likely have screwed up the oriface when the nozzle pushed into the glass." So sorry to hear that you screwed up your j-head by pushing it into the glass when your z-axis slipped. Hopefully you can fix it, but if not, fortunately they're not terribly expensive.by xiando - General
I've tried using a standard car battery for a UPS and found it just doesn't perform well under any substantial, sustained load, since the voltage droops too quickly.. Deep cycle batteries will do the job though, for a while anyway.by xiando - General
Sorry, I realized that you said "ceramic heater" but although I went out of my way to check the gadgets site after you left out the link to that nozzle, for whatever reason, it was not showing the product details when I visited it, just a short description that had no device characteristics, which is why I looked elsewhere. The only reference I could find was the BOM on the Buddaschnozzle site iby xiando - Controllers