QuoteJc61990 What board would you recommend with a 32bit arm? There's a list of boards at the reprap wiki, although it's a bit out of date. The 32-bit ARM based boards are more powerful without a doubt, although the firmware isn't as mature as things like Marlin or Repetier. A quick goot for 32-bit arm 3d printer boards throws up some interesting results.by 3dkarma - Controllers
Currently running a RUMBA. Using it because I'm about to install a diamond hot-end and the RUMBA can deal with the number of extruder motors. It's been a reliable workhouse for the past several months.by 3dkarma - Controllers
Guitar string simply won't be flexible enough to use. CoreXY printers use spectra braided fishing line.by 3dkarma - Mechanics
It looks like your first layer is too low. Can you change the z-offset using M212?by 3dkarma - Printing
You really, really have to have a fan pointing at the heat sink above the heat break, or you'll get heat creep upward and the filament will expand and block the hot end. That carriage isn't designed for that type of hot end. It's most likely designed for something like a j-head. The reprap wiki has a good (if a little outdated) list of different hot ends. You might be able to get away with aby 3dkarma - General
You need a strain relief point at some place on the X carriage or extruder you can zip-tie all the cables to.by 3dkarma - General
Setting E steps per mm individually for different extruders is an outstanding feature request in Marlin. Until it's implemented, you might be able to use the tool change custom gcode, although I'm not convinced this is possible as it doesn't support conditional processing. My only other thought is to use the feed rate multiplier setting in Slic3r, which can be set for each individual extruder.by 3dkarma - Developers
It looks like the second layer is printing too high, so the plastic isn't getting smooshed down into the first layer. Try commanding the printer to move up 10mm and measure how much it actually moved.by 3dkarma - Printing
We use this stuff, good for temperatures up to 180C.by 3dkarma - Reprappers
If you didn't, I'd say you're getting heat creep and the filament is expanding too high in the extruder. What temperature setting are you using?by 3dkarma - General
Do you have the fan attached to the heatsink and powered up?by 3dkarma - General
Stringiness is cured by your retraction settings, not by steps per mm. The very first thing you need to do is calibrate your e-steps per mm, but the very-very first thing you need to do before that is to ensure that your extruder can extrude the same length of filament each and every time you ask it to. Mark off 120mm above the extruder, then extrude 100mm. Measure how much is left. Repeat.by 3dkarma - Printing
I've found that layer bonding problems occur either when you're under extruding or printing too cold. If it's under-extrusion, it should be visually obvious - the layer should look like it's got holes in it. If not, try upping your print temp by 5 degrees to see if it bonds better. To test, try printing two towers side by side, upping temp by 5 degrees each time, until you get a print that holby 3dkarma - Printing
Are you sure the nozzle isn't blocked?by 3dkarma - General
This might seem like a dumb question, but did you set the initial values for E-steps per mm for each extruder? You need to select each one independently before setting the value: T0; Select first extruder. M92 E443 T1; Select second extruder. M92 E443by 3dkarma - General
The print might be running a little hot. A fan pointed at the business end will definitely help with the bridging, too. Have you run through the calibration steps on the reprap wiki yet?by 3dkarma - Printing
Do you know what the existing E steps per mm are? Up the value by 133% and send the following to the printer (replace , including the <> symbols, with the new calculated value): M92 E M500 Then send M503 to the printer to confirm the new value's been saved. You really don't owe me anything. I've been helped out a lot by the people on this board; I'm sure you'll do the same. 3D printinby 3dkarma - Printing
That's great. Now you can set the E steps per mm and you'll be good to go.by 3dkarma - Printing
Normally clockwise, yes (although the geeetech ones go anti-clockwise). 1/12th is a good amount to turn them.by 3dkarma - Printing
Sounds like the vref might be too low if you're getting skipped steps at 100mm/min. I'd try turning the pot, as you suggested - just nudge it up slightly, test the extrusion, rinse and repeat until you get it extruding without any skips.by 3dkarma - Printing
It now sounds like you're trying to extrude too fast. Set the hot end to 200 celsius and extrude 100mm at 100mm/minute. M104 S200; Set extruder temp. G91; Set relative positioning (so subsequent G1 E100 commands will dom something, rather than nothing). G1 E100 F100; Extrude 100mm at 100mm per minute.by 3dkarma - Printing
The frame is going to flex more in the Y direction as the weight of the X carriage moves up, especially if your print speed is set high. Our printers use a frame stabiliser like this on our aluminium-framed printers to keep everything stiff and square. Try lowering the printing speed a bit to see if the problem reduces itself.by 3dkarma - Printing
I did just say that adding it to DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT would do nothing. You are much better off resolving the g code issue than trying to change Marlin, as you will more than likely cause significant problems with the firmware. Try posting the exact g code you sent to the printer, including the code to select the extruder, set the steps per mm and extrude a length of filament. It may beby 3dkarma - Developers
Look in Configuration.h for DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT, although anything past the 4th value will be ignored, based on what I can see in the code. M92 overrides the firmware settings, so I'm surprised it did nothing. You sent T1 first then M92?by 3dkarma - Developers
Increasing to 125% to get 100mm will have more to do with the correct E steps per mm setting than tension. If, with the same settings, you're getting different lengths then either your tension is off or something is causing missed steps on the extruder. The first thing to get is consistency - with the same settings, can I get the same length of filament extruded every time - even if it's too muby 3dkarma - Printing
Looks like DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT in Marlin is limited to X, Y, Z and the first extruder. The only way I can think of to do this is to put it in the starting g-code for your slicing software.by 3dkarma - Developers
For that great a difference between extruded and measured, you really need to set E steps per mm using the M92 gcode command. I'd also run the same test a few times. If your guidler tension isn't correct, or you are extruding your test too fast, you can get missed steps and inconsistent results. You need to get a consistently extruded length of filament first before you tune E steps per mm, orby 3dkarma - Printing
Did you select E1 with T1 before sending M92 to set the steps per mm? The sample gcode below will set E steps per mm for each extruder. T0; Select extruder 0. M92 E400; Set E steps per mm for extruder 0 to 400. T1; Select extruder 1. M92 E401; Set E steps per mm for extruder 1 to 401.by 3dkarma - Developers
What are you trying to do? Chances are the information exists somewhere, if you're more specific about the information you want.by 3dkarma - General
The steps per mm for the extruder is generally an imprecise calculation, due in large part to the way it's measured (it's very difficult to mark and measure filament with any real degree of accuracy even with calipers). You end up fine-tuning the extrusion multiplier based on the results of the calibration process (. Extrusion is affected by filament width as well, so this is something you'll eby 3dkarma - Printing