I've attached a zip file with two files you need. This includes a patch for servo leveling taken from Marlin main stream. Give it a try and let me know if it works or doesn't I'll be able to officially test this later tonight on my kossel. Cheers, Mark aka thetazzbot PS Don't use the configuration_servo_leveling.h file as is, you need to open it up and look for theselines and copy them intby thetazzbot - Reprappers
But actually i have my doubts about this concept. I believe molten plastic will creep up between the ceramic and compression fitting...causing all sorts of trouble.by thetazzbot - General
Yes removing "safety" equipment is not wise so you should put those gaurds back on all your tools. Ive been running the psu with no fan since i bought it and i have never felt it get warm. But i use a bench powersupply now anyway. I dont like exposed terminals. Hows that for "safety"? Ironic isnt it...by thetazzbot - Reprappers
Well honestly your printer is more Delta than Kossel. Mine is a standard mini kossel.by thetazzbot - Delta Machines
So riddle me this batman. if the above black power supply has no fan, how is it considered unsafe to remove the fan if it is known the unit is not exceeding safe temperatures without it? Probably has some better heat sinks... I'll have to take a look...by thetazzbot - Reprappers
You dont have a hardware store in your town?by thetazzbot - General
The machine is getting wobbly the higher it goes up the z axis. hence slowing it down resolves it because the vibration goes awayby thetazzbot - Printing
Quotefrankvdh Just having a pair of flats or a hex machined onto the heatbreak in the space between heatsink and heater block would make it much easier to unscrew the heatbreak from the heatsink. supposedly that space is thin for a reason, thats why there are no threads there. the thin metal gap helps block heat travel. thats the theory at least, i dont think it really works in practice becausby thetazzbot - Developers
1/4 inch might work.by thetazzbot - General
Just take the fan out. Thats what i did and it never runs hot.by thetazzbot - Reprappers
There is no way your probe could be Y -.10 mm from your hot end. I suggest you revisit how you came by that number. it is the position of the probe in relation to the nozzle tip. So, usually you mount the probe to the side, and in front or back of the nozzle.by thetazzbot - General
Drilling stainless is a pain. I have recently attempted making my own just like you are. Here is what I have accomplished so far: Use a retangular piece of aluminum, about 1/2 thick is good. Drill (halfway through) and tap it to hold the M6 stainless all thread rod piece. Screw the stainless rod into the aluminum. It is helpful if you can do all of the above without moving the piece on your dby thetazzbot - General
This actually goes to show you that rounded corners are superior to square ones, and if you were designing parts for printing (not just test cubes), you might consider how the printer has to basically stop, change direction, and start again, while the nozzle is still oozing. This is where retraction helps. But there is another setting, "Minimum distance before retraction" that you need to playby thetazzbot - Printing
Unless you could make a nozzle out of carbon fiber Read about how carbon fiber is made It's interesting that ABS and Carbon fiber start out with the same base polymer and end up in drastically different places..by thetazzbot - General
If you're assuming the length of the extrusion on the vertical and horizontal side is the input to the equation, I think that is invalid. It doesn't account for the offset from top and bottom to account for end stops, carriage vertical and horizontal, and bed height Using the math on that page, I came up with 235mm for rod length for my mini kossel, which is 600mm tall with 240 mm horizontalsby thetazzbot - Delta Machines
QuoteGRAYWOLF I have built and melted a Prusa I3 so have some experance, but need a second to fix the I3 scrap it. use the rods to build something else, like a smartrap core that's my current project. Here's my transition: Build Prusa i3 with acrylic frame. Fight with it for three months Order parts for Mini Kossel Build it over a couple of weeks, spare time project Print, and become overwby thetazzbot - Fisher
I'm going a different direction I have a block of delrin that I bought from mcmaster-carr and I'm going to machine a bushing that rides inside the extrusion slot Wish me luck!by thetazzbot - Reprappers
So yeah those blobs. I believe this has to do with the changing direction of the print head, and "infill overlap" vs "x/y jerk" I'm using an e3d v6 clone. This is my theory. printer moves ---------------->o<----------changes direction caused a blob. I intend to play with this more because I really like the .35 mm nozzle. But my nozzle is taking an acetone bath at the moment. this iby thetazzbot - Reprappers
If you're getting heat creep up the filament, I might challenge that something is wrong with your hot end. oh, well this is about pla and I don't print with pla at all...because it jams haha. Anyway, but I still think something is not right about the hot end. Make sure there is a 3-4mm gap between the round heat sink and the square heat block. And have a fan on the heat sink... Pla gives meby thetazzbot - Reprappers
Ok so I started out with a .4mm nozzle, and usually print at .2 mm layer height. Prints. take. forever. Mostly because I do not run the machine at uber high speeds (~60mm/s, 120mm/s max). It is a mini kossel, so higher speeds means more vibrations.. So I installed a .35mm nozzle, it is shaped differently, more pointed than the .4. It prints sooo much nicer! I'm kinda surprised by the differby thetazzbot - Reprappers
you have a typo.. so change it to G28 X0 Y0 G29 G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzleby thetazzbot - General
Seems the original poster just posts and vanishes.. Love it when they do that. Conceptually, you should not get any leaks since it is compression fitting. If the nozzle and heat break end of the male compression fitting meet in the middle of the heat block, you should not have any leaks there either. I have bravely tested this concept by holding a piece of ceramic fuse tube on one end while heaby thetazzbot - General
It kinda sucks tho, I'm a bit spoiled already by this thing. I had plans to build two corexy machines, one based on smartrap core, and the other using this heavy extrusion that I bought... So I'm using the kossel to print parts for those, and I'm already thinking, hmmm maybe I should just build more kossels But I would like a bigger rectangular build platform for other stuff that I had in mindby thetazzbot - Delta Machines
Im in love with this mini kossel! Ever since i built the prusa I3 i had issues. Ill fitting parts ... Things getting loose and shaky too many parts overall..sure a lot of that is build related maybe but some troublesome design flaws exist as well...so long i3!! Now i built the kossel and its a dream to operate. Im going to upgrade to the duet board but for now its working within its limits. Aby thetazzbot - Delta Machines
Lol the video was prett cheesey. Shows a guy sitting on the grass by a lake with the printer and laptop and no o vious power source... Derp. Marketing is fun. The printer looks nice for what it is.by thetazzbot - General
well, the price marked at the store i go to is $19.95 on the box. the sign said sale $14.95 the last few spools ive bought were $19.95.by thetazzbot - General
thats funny. I actually came up with this same approach, using the ceramic fuse, but didn't get as far as you did with the implementation. The tube is too big for my 1.75 filament. fixed your video link: but that's only the first few layers in the video. would like to see what happens after a more lengthy print...by thetazzbot - General
Just letting ya'll know, Microcenter in the US (I'm in dallas area, Texas) has their ABS and PLA Inland brand filament on sale for $14.95 a spool, 2.2lb/1kg. I left some for ya!by thetazzbot - General
My first thought was Aria the Dragon but since it does not require support it really wouldnt showcase the one feature that basically supposedly separates Simplify3d feom the rest. Im willing to give 3 to 4 hours toward the test.by thetazzbot - General
Sorry im using .4mm nozzle. Abs 1.75mm 90/240 Hmm 2 vert shells 3 horiz. top/bottom..by thetazzbot - General