This is a thread documenting the build of a V-slot printer with Etch A Sketch kinematics. Similar to Ultimaker, but more akin to the original 2D drawing toy which doesnt have spinning rods like the Ultimaker does. A few years back I was in the preliminary stage of designing my ideal printer that was like a mashup of the Ultimaker and another 3Dprinter whos name I can't seem to pronounce or recaby Number_5 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotethe_digital_dentist I can't follow your logic. You need print adhesion to the bed for the duration of the print. That's what the heater is for. You also need a surface that prints will stick to, which may not be the surface of the bed plate itself- people use different things- some print on glass with glue or hairspray, others use PEI or kapton, etc. I thought we were talking about 3D prby Number_5 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist The problem with indexing at the center of the bed is that you usually have a heater and/or thermistor there. Some heaters have a hole in the center or you could have a custom heater made that way. You probably wouldn't want to drill through the bed plate for tool access on the top side because slicers tend to put prints at the center of the bed, so you'd have to ensureby Number_5 - General
Slicers have the option to heat for the first layer for adhesion, so it seems a reasonable assumption, whether or not you actually do it. The point being it would be better indexed in the center, for purely arguments sake. I do like that you have this reference point for the bed. "Heating the bed then dropping a few degrees" is semantics for warming the bed for the first few layers then shuttinby Number_5 - General
QuoteEd3D (Probably a repeat thread so apologies if it is!) Also what do you think is the best option for an extruder? Ive been looking at things like the nimble or the titan. Any thoughts? Anything open source? Myself, I decided to go with a Bondtech BMG. I kind of got turned off of polycarbonate used in 3D printers after E3D ran into problems with the original titans cracking. It ended upby Number_5 - General
Try one of the more generic instructions for bootloading a TronXY/Anet A8 boards. I had difficulty one time and it ended up being the cabling or the order I was doing something. Once I figured it out it was easy.by Number_5 - Reprappers
QuoteSupraGuy I'm willing to accept that the heated bed must remain heated for the duration of the print. I do that anyways for consistency. I as well.by Number_5 - General
No, you aren't that clever, your picture was obviously framed to be misleading. What do you mean the whole gantry moves? Red herring?, it still looks like a bed-flinger.by Number_5 - General
What are we looking at here, a bed-flinger with a granite slab? If so, the next question would be why, but you already said you got it for 5 bucks. I guess you showed me. lolby Number_5 - General
QuoteMKSA Digital Dentist here did a correct bed and explained how. He answered to you, so no need to repeat. Sad to say, it is one of the very few found on the internet. I intend to steal the granite slab from a cemetery It is not that fragile and is in fact cheap and flat enough. Fiber reinforced concrete, I thought about it too, mainly for the frame ! Makes a very good base for a regular maby Number_5 - General
Sure it should be accounted for, but you can only site one example on the internet of a "good" heat bed? Are you planning on heating the granite too? If you do manage to get the granite up to temperature, it will move almost half as much as aluminum, in various directions dictated by the natural grain of the product. You realize the granite will have to be at least 3/4" to 1 1/4" thick to notby Number_5 - General
QuoteMKSA If you look here, you can see that the very few correctly built cartesian printers don't use ABL because they don't need it. If you need ABL, you made a clunker and no "sensor" will be good enough as it will stay a clunker. Of course a Delta, SCARA or similar it is a must in order to define the origins. Now to set the Z home, a sensor makes thing easier. The best approach, and it is wby Number_5 - General
It would be nice not to need ABL, fingers crossed I don't need it on my next build, however I find a good sensor useful for some of the reasons mentioned by leadinglights. ABL is good for bootstrapping the last bit of imperfections out of my machine, specifically a slight dip in my 8" build plate that might change a depending on whether I decide to heat the bed or not. I still keep the machineby Number_5 - General
I like the wheel and V-slot of the Ender so it should be a slight step up. Not to say that it doesn't have its own quirks that may need addressing, due diligence and all that. The Ender 3 IMO is just a refined version of the Creality CR-10, which is just a refined version of the TronXY printers from a few years back. They seem to gain more momentum in sales buy coming out with new "brands" ratheby Number_5 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Right now I guess either the BLTouch or a piezo for a close second might fit most people's criteria as best, all-around. I'm making the same decision right now and bought a genuine BLTouch. I am currently using an inductive sensor with an aluminum bed, it's serviceable, I'm happy with it for the most part. It's limiting if I wanted to use different build surfaces like a thick sheet off glass oby Number_5 - General
I have a couple of TronXY bed-flingers, a X3A and X3S. The kits are reasonable value to somebody who can tinker, due to the extruded aluminum V slot. On board is a Melzi without a bootloader, the other is a "lonestar" labeled board that is similar and may have a boot loader, but don't quote me on that. The 12" bed on the X3S is not flat enough to use without bed level compensation, but the lby Number_5 - CoreXY Machines
I found what is claimed to be a genuine 40 amp Fotek SSR. The reason I switched is because DigiKey could not fulfill the order on the Crydom SSR. Kind of annoying but I suppose this Fotek is less money and has more headroom anyway, assuming it is in fact genuine.by Number_5 - General
Oh do they? I will have a look, thanks. EDIT: DO you have a link, I found one combined with a P.I.D. controller, but not on it's own.by Number_5 - General
I kinda got the feeling that the pieces Midwest sold at that price may have been off-cuts or damaged pieces.by Number_5 - General
QuoteHoly1 QuoteNumber_5 I just ordered a 330mm x 330mm (13" x13") x 9.5mm (0.375") Mic6 aluminum plate. Now I just have to decide if I want to go with a SSR and AC or 24V with a Meanwell PSU. Hi, great job updating your thread so fast. Can you give a link for the Mic6 plate? I am using the 750 watt keenovo pad with Cyrydom ssr too but my plate is only 1/8 thick. Here is the link. MIC6 Alumby Number_5 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist I've never seen anyone reply to their own posts so many times, so quickly! No one can ever say you lack enthusiasm! There seem to be a lot of crappy Fotek knock-offs around, so you did the right thing. You can get some idea of the time-to-temperature vs. power input relationship on this web site: I use the same 750W heater on a 300x300x8mm plate and it gets to 100C fby Number_5 - General
I ordered the Crydom D2425 that was suggested in the Duet hardware page. It was considerably more money then the Fotek, on the other hand it's a pretty important part. This way I know it is not a counterfeit as I purchased it from a Crydom distributor. It seems quite a few of the 25A Fotek on Amazon etc. may actually contain internals that can only handle half the current.by Number_5 - General
I ordered a 30cm x 30cm Keenovo 750w 120VAC heating element. Next I guess I will look for a SSR. The Fotek SSR-25DA seems to be used fairly often.by Number_5 - General
I'm leaning towards the AC and SSR so that I don't have to buy the 24v PSU @500w. The slight concern is all of the already made ones I am finding are 750w for a 30cm x 30cm 120VAC. I see that they do have custom ones available, I'd have to educate myself on all the options to be sure to select one similar to the ones they already make for 3D printers. I'm not being lazy, just I'll still be sittby Number_5 - General
I just ordered a 330mm x 330mm (13" x13") x 9.5mm (0.375") Mic6 aluminum plate. Now I just have to decide if I want to go with a SSR and AC or 24V with a Meanwell PSU.by Number_5 - General
OK well I kind of talked myself out of using this heater that I have here, I will go with a Keenovo type of heater instead. I see where there are 30cmx30cm silicone pads available, so I guess I should order the Mic6 plate to be around 320mm. I think this will end up being in the 300w-400w range. I don't really want a 750w heater if it's not needed, I think I would rather downsize to a 25cm bedby Number_5 - General
I'm in the process of designing my new printer. I've decided I want to try a 1/4" or 3/8" Mic6 aluminum build plate, but wondered about the heater. I have a 300mm MK2a heat bed here that came with one of my printers. I was wondering if this was a suitable heater if I could somehow attach it properly to the bottom of the Mic6 plate. I'm not sure if this heater can be ran off of 24v or not, but Iby Number_5 - General