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(RepRap en Français)
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Yes, I see what you mean now. I was able to return to the original firmware settings and with a thermistor got normal readings.
I have to set this aside, but I want to tackle all of this again because I have a dual extruder system I want to install on one of the machines.
by
Yvan
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RAMPS Electronics
Hello Everyone,
I'm playing around with the Marlin firmware on a new Arduino/RAMPS 1.4 combo and I'm getting a 499 degree reading from the hot end in Pronterface.
Even when there is no thermistor connected.
I've been trying to set things up for dual extruders.
Any ideas what is going on? Just another defective RAMPS?
I should add I moved around some tested thermistors and still get 499. Only
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Yvan
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RAMPS Electronics
So about those bed MOSFETs getting hot, I've bought some little heat sinks to help with that. Not exactly the right type though. The Folger Tech boards don't have one installed at all.
I've been running one board a lot without a heat sink and it is holding up, but I will put it on there when I change things around later on.
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Yvan
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RAMPS Electronics
Yes, those are some of the ones I've bought. About $50 Canadian with the Arduino and drivers. I think they are all from the same factory. I've repaired a couple. I don't know that kind of solder they use, so I can't put them in finished machines...
So far all of mine either worked fine or died on the spot. They seem to be reliable after that.
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Yvan
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RAMPS Electronics
Hello Everyone,
I've bought over a dozen RAMPS 1.4 boards, some are very good quality($180), others very cheap($50). Not much in between.
The cheapest boards have really been hit and miss, with about 25% failure rate in one form or another. The expensive ones have been better, but....
Has anyone found a good source for a good quality board that is not overly expensive?
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Yvan
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RAMPS Electronics
That is too bad! I consider 250°C to be over the limit for any hot end with plastic. If a thermistor is slightly off, it could mean the hot end is actually at 255° which is more than way over the limit...
I try to keep things at or under 240°C, since none of these systems are accurately calibrated.
I've bought about half a dozen genuine J-Heads, they are well made but are just as prone to heat
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Yvan
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Reprappers
L'équerrage dans les trois plans s'est important. J'ai trouvé qu'avec les Prusa i3 par exemple, je peux imprimer des cales pour corriger les défauts de perpendicularité de l'axe Z.
Même la solution la plus simple peu très bien fonctionner.
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Yvan
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
I'm surprised no one has commented... I have only had issues probably related to cheap power supplies. Looks like you have something more sinister!
I would just have to shut off and back on once to clear things up.
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Yvan
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Reprappers
Right now I have a moderately used Prusa version 2 that has been upgraded in several ways. The main upgrade is a very reliable all metal Eckertech hot end that can handle PLA, ABS, Polycarbonate, PVA, HDPE, Nylon or Laywoo-d3. I've personally used it with PLA, ABS and Nylon with zero problems. It is a very good hot end.
I've also upgraded the X axis ends, and the X carriage among other things. I
by
Yvan
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For Sale
Hello 11010, welcome to the forum!
The three most common metals or alloys I see in the general space occupied by people who have RepRap style printers are aluminium, brass and mild steel. There is not much beyond that, except for small inox parts. After that I rarely see anyone build much with anything else.
If I had to pick one, I might be tempted to say brass. I think I would get the most use
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Yvan
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General
QuoteRalf
Depending on the hotend internals, it is sometimes possible to pull out all of the old filament, while the hotend is cooling down or warming up, if done at the right time and with a bit of luck, you should see an imprint of the internal shape of the hotend in the filament. The sweetspot seems to be between 95 and 110 degrees C.
Pic:
I've attempted that on a few occasions with three d
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Yvan
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General
I don't have the answer, only a related anecdote to share. I switched from black ABS to red ABS. After a bit of purging the red color seemed to be coming out nicely. Well three hours into a 5 1/2 hour print, several slightly darker layers were extruded into the shape! After that, the rest of the part was a very slightly purer red than before.
So it took three hours to get every bit of black out
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Yvan
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General
And just too further muddle the issue... start looking into product liability insurance.
Anything that you fabricate and sell can fail or cause harm to someone. In some cases you will be taken to court and you will lose. Either your corperation(what you don't have a corporation? Add that to the cost of making stuff then...) or you personally will have to pay for damages and court costs.
Making
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Yvan
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General
Hi Dave, thanks for the reply.
This is what I have in the latest version of Marlin I downloaded from Github a couple of hours ago, starting a line 92:
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0
// Actual temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success
#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10 // (seconds)
#define TEMP_HY
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Yvan
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hello Everyone,
For safety reasons I'm trying to impliment dual thermistors on one hot end.
I found this :J_head
When I look in Marlin, I don't see anything that matches up with the above.
The lastest version of Marlin I downloaded from Github is from eight months ago. So what happened to the dual thermistor option? It never existed?
Thanks for any help!
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Yvan
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
The Eckertech hot end is all metal and can go over 300°C without damage. There is just some debris in it.
I've used some 14 or 12 guage copper wire to pull out molten plastic. If you get the right combination of temperatures, it can pull everything out of the hot end bore.
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Yvan
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Reprappers
QuoteA2
QuoteYvan
Maybe a smoke detector in the fume hood could be hooked up to a relay controlling the exhaust fan.
If the fan was off, or marginally operational, the smoke detector wouldn't be effective located inside the ducting.
Yes, that is correct. Locating a detector in the ducting would be awkward. For example, the ducts I have are anywhere from 3 to 6 inches, not very big. The smoke de
by
Yvan
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Safety & Best Practices
Othar, I wonder how the heat sensitive valve on those would work in a fume hood. I think it would work well for other applications, but the way mine are set up, a lot of heat would go out the ventilation system, that would really delay the responce time.
Maybe a smoke detector in the fume hood could be hooked up to a relay controlling the exhaust fan. When the smoke detector triggers, it shuts o
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Yvan
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Safety & Best Practices
Quotedave3d
Having the printer inside an enclosure fitted with a smoke alarm that triggers an automatic CO2 extinguisher system would be ideal.
However I cannot find an electrically operated CO2 system that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Systems used for race cars and boats are also usually powder.
My favorite is to have the printer enclosed in a sealed compartment, with an oxygen free atmosph
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Yvan
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Safety & Best Practices
I just realized, most of my machines have a switch function on the power supplies(Xbox, PC, etc.). I can run the thermal fuse to the switch wiring, and shut off the power supplies themselves. Obviously.
No more power supplies that have switches on the mains side for me.
by
Yvan
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Safety & Best Practices
For those who have fume hoods, I've been thinking a smoke detector could be placed inside it, in the airflow. I'm building a second fume hood, and don't want an situation where all the smoke from a failing machine is sucked out of the house while the fire grows!
I'm also fiddling with a thermal fuse that tiggers at 184°C. I noticed it can handle 10A, so I am wondering if I could place it under t
by
Yvan
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Safety & Best Practices
How about running the STL through Netfabb Basic? It clears up many issues for me, might just work with this problem...
by
Yvan
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General
Oui, pas évident! Moi je corrige avec une lime ronde! En écartant ou en rapprochant les deux trous pour les tiges 8 mm à une extrémité de l'axe X on peut corriger un peu. 0.2 mm ce n'est pas si pire dans le monde des Prusa!
Quand ça roule pas ronde, en général s'est due à la contamination dans les entrailles du LM8UU. La plupart du temps j'arrive à les nettoyer avec un bain de solvant.
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Yvan
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Bonjour,
Oui en effet, les LM8UU pas chers ne sont pas impressionnants! Mais les défauts d'enlignement vont pas se résoudre en utilisant des roulements linéaires de meilleure qualité. Ils peuvent même s'aggraver!
Aussi, il faut s'assurer que les tiges lisses sont de qualité acceptable pour bien fonctionner avec des roulements de qualité supérieure. Les tiges en inox par exemple ne sont pas réel
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Yvan
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Bonjour,
J'ai des Prusa i3,(filament de 3 mm) et j'ai fait des essais à 0.1 mm pour l'axe Z. Très bonne qualité avec des courroies GT5 et une buse 0.35 mm.
Normalement pour du travail de qualité acceptable, avec une buse de 0.35 mm je regle le Z à 0.29 mm.
by
Yvan
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
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Pages: 12345