I've had zero issues for 2 years and all of a sudden I can't build Marlin anymore. I spent nearly 5 days straight trying to fix this, hoping someone here can shed some light. OS: Both Macs are running Catalina 10.15.5 Steps: 1) Installed VSCode on another mac 2) Installed PalformIO IDE 3) Downloaded Marlin2.0X 4) Built using the check mark (default build env) Result: Successful build with 2 wby Modmike - Firmware - Marlin
Actually those are just external drivers. I imagine standard stepsticks could not take the load and heat. The dummies you are referring to actually shunting control to the external drivers.by Modmike - Controllers
My vendor also applied pressure but to no avail. They are holding tight. The point is mostly moot if we can get screen and USB to work. I have libraries for both, are you a programmer?by Modmike - Controllers
@darkstar1 Please find all the files you need for Marlin 2.0.x to get your createbot converted. The only things that don't work for me on my DX are the LCD and the USB drive. I don't really care about either but will probably swap out the LCD fo the Lulzbot one at $25.00 when it's released. It looks like a direct replacement and will at least be supported. As for the USB drive, I found a librby Modmike - Controllers
What a beast!!!! Basically same motherboard as me so pins will work. I’m not seeing all the SSRs you mentioned. Is there a way you can slide a phone under there to take pics? I wouldn’t go crazy, you can just try my file but I would rather have a really good picture before you do. Cheers!by Modmike - Controllers
I have those all mapped as well. How many heads do you have? Also the SSR in mine is for power NOT the heat bed as I had originally suspected. Can you send me a pic of your board? If there is a pm function here shoot me your email address and I will send the relevant files tomorrow morning.by Modmike - Controllers
Power button issue resolved: In configuration.h: #define POWER_SUPPLY 1 In pins_file: #define PS_ON_PIN 40 #define KILL_PIN 41 do not /#define CASE_LIGHT_PIN 40 as in Rumba example. I just commented it out.by Modmike - Controllers
If you want a more functional LCD check this out: I loaded it on my LCD no problem but I need to recompile it for 250000 baud for it to possibly run with the OEM firmware. It's directly wired to Serial port 3 but I have not looked at bringing it over yet because I am trying to fix the power button issue.by Modmike - Controllers
I have a touch screen as well. I am running Marlin 2.0.x on it now but have 3 issues, the most pressing of which is the power button. When running the OEM firmware pushing the button brings Marlin pin 41 high and the printer turns on. It’s low when off. Standard Rumba uses pin 45 for PS_ON. Creatbot uses pin 40 and can be shut down via M41 when configured as such. My Github is not up to dateby Modmike - Controllers
I am pretty far along on the Marlin port but am stuck at the power switch, display, and USB port. The screen might be a while.by Modmike - Controllers
Thermistor and fan issue resolved.by Modmike - Controllers
I am in the process of installing Marlin on a Creatbot DX. It is an Ultimaker clone that uses a Rumba derived controller. I have most everything working but need to confirm a few things: 1) FIXED (to be tested) - Used the normal pins 15 and 14. The hot end uses K-Type thermistors connected to an AD597 amplifier. I set the the temperature sensor type to -1 and used the standard analog pinby Modmike - Controllers
Ok got it to upload to a test board. For an unknown ramps based on a 2560 do I just use Arduino/Genuino mega or mega 2560 board in IDE? I imagine that should work on any 2560 based controller, right?by Modmike - RAMPS Electronics
So how do I use it? Just open in ide and upload?by Modmike - RAMPS Electronics
How diminuée it? Just load in IDE and upload?by Modmike - RAMPS Electronics
What is the expected behaviour of this configuration? I’m not a programmer but it looks like it switches the pins on and off and if it doesn’t get a response it kills the function. Is this correct?by Modmike - RAMPS Electronics
That’s a basic definition I imagine?by Modmike - RAMPS Electronics
I am trying to reverse engineer a CreatBot controller in order to install an updated version of Marlin. I am able to get Marlin on but all the pins are wrong. I manually traced the the stepper and limit switch pin connections using a multi-meter but it just won't work. I also tried disassembling the hex but all the characters were stripped. The machine really is well built and otherwise excelby Modmike - RAMPS Electronics
The Ender 3 has an aluminum bed that is known to warp. I suspect mine has more issues than that. It worked fine for a while but the moment I added PEI, I had printing issues. Since I added the glass under the PEI, everything is better. I did have auto level on it but I ended up having to re-level for every print because the bed is so unstable.by Modmike - Printing
I am running into an issue with the fan speeding up and slowing down on Marlin 2.0.x bug fix. It runs fine at first but then goes kind of crazy. I also had an issue where I turned it off and it started to come on sporadically. Any ideas?by Modmike - Firmware - Marlin
You were right the first time. I ran out, bought a piece of glass cut to fit the bed, laminated the PEI sheet to the glass using a piece of 3M 468, disabled auto level, reinstalled Z switch and it looks like it is working. Thanks!by Modmike - Printing
QuoteDiggrr Azteeg (Panucatt Devices) is in Irvine California, not China, not a clone. I've found the boards and drivers to be quite well made, but support for hardware and firmware is sketchy at best...your Google-Foo must be black-belt or higher. Seriously. I will second that. I recently spent some time with the Re-Arm, Azteeg X5 Mini Wifi, and Azteeg X5 GT. They re all great buys but I realby Modmike - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Yes and yes. I have auto level also. The issue is that as I was watching it print, it seemed like the head went up and dribbled plastic. Any chance it's an adhesion issue?by Modmike - Printing
I just finished upgrading my Ender 3 with an original E3DV6 hot end, fang fan, metal extruder, PEI bed. It prints better than ever except a weird issue in the front, mostly on the right. It seems as if the plastic is dribbled on top of the bottom layer, causing pinholes below. Subsequent layers are fine and no trace of the defect is seen on top layer. It also aways happens in the same areas. Aby Modmike - Printing
I am running an SN-04 sensor on an Ender 3 powered by a Re-Arm. Board and sensor voltage is 24 Volts and version is Marlin 2.0.C bug fix. I am getting inconsistent readings, even though I used 2 different sensors. The leveling data does not make sense. I leveled manually then did the auto level. Are sensors affected by power wires in the bed? I noticed the left rear corner is the worst. Iby Modmike - Firmware - Marlin
First post and and already asking for help! I just finished installing a Panucatt Re-Arm into my Ender 3. I am using Marlin and everything is working except for the LCD. Does anyone know how I should connect the 2? I can’t find a pinout for the display. I have the special Panucatt cable and the smart adapter. Thanks!by Modmike - RAMPS Electronics