I'm using a regular thermistor from eBay, not the one from e3d. so I'm not sure if its the same settings ?by TRoager - Printing
My filament is 1.749 and i just raised the temperature to 265 and 270 an i finalt Got good layer Bonding. But it seems Strange. I use a 100k epcos with the e3d and using the first setting in marlin. (1)by TRoager - Printing
0.3 mm nozzle and 0.2 layer height for first layers and Then 0.1 for the rest.by TRoager - Printing
Hello folks. I have been having this problem from the beginning of my time with ABS. Heres my setup: Custom Ultimaker with ramps 1.4 Airtripper Bowden 1.75 Blue ABS from RRW Using cura. (Slic3r gives wierd results for me) Hotend: E3D v5 , 245c first layer, 240 rest. Heated bed: Mk2a, 100c first layer, 94 rest. The picture should tell everything. But my observation is that the layers Wont Bondby TRoager - Printing
Im having a hard time calibrating the extruder. It seems like its over extruding but when im calculating Then i get 93mm so im under extruding? :O What the? And im calibrating with 100mm and my steps are 151.9, and now it tells me to use 202 steps instead, but isnt that just gonna make the extrusion Wiese if its already over extruding?by TRoager - Printing
Sorry for not telling specs. ABS from reprap World. Hotend 230 degrees , heatedbed 100 degrees. I adjusted the flow at now it looks better but fra from good.by TRoager - Printing
Hello Folks i just started printing with my custom ultimaker and was wondering what would cause my prints to look like this: maybe over extruding ? too high temp? not leveled bed ? any suggestions? - Tby TRoager - Printing
i got the same problem, i was wondering if the problem was because i didn't let the bed cool off. But i don't know yet.by TRoager - Printing
I used the experimental 1.1.1 but haven't had any issues with it before that. i then updated it to 1.1.2 and it sliced perfectly so maybe it was just the other version. but i can understand why you guys use the 0.9.10 versions, whats so different about that one ?by TRoager - Slic3r
Hello folks. i have been trying for the first time to create an object for my hobby motors, but i just can't understand why slic3r keep slicing it with errors IMO. maybe some of you can shed some light. stl file:by TRoager - Slic3r
i was able to source most of the parts locally, and got around a price at 350 USD, this is a Prusa i3 Boxed Frame. Then when i thought the boxed frame caused to many problems i was trying to source some parts for an upgrade. The upgrade costed me alittle more and i was able to get my printer working very nice and some good results (not perfect still needs calibration, just upgraded a few days aby TRoager - General Mendel Topics
UPDATE: i found out that i was under extruding. my e steps were 125 for my MK8 Drive Gear but than i calculated it and it were 40mm off, so i recalibrated it and now its 150,7 e steps and it works perfect in room temperature and 230 degrees on Hotend. Thanks for your helpby TRoager - Printing
Så What to use as percentage ? 200-300? After i mounted my bed with springs i have had a hard time leveling my bed maybe thats the problem? But im using m5 screws and the calculator says 4000 for m5 and it doesnt seem wrong. As an extruder om using an Mk8 drive gear, with 125 e steps , maybe thats too low?by TRoager - Printing
I see. I tried with 0.5 but didnt seem to get that much syringer , next time i print ill try 0.6 or maybe i should write in percentage?by TRoager - Printing
Quotejbernardis What is your extrusion width? Your extrusion width should be about twice the size of your layer height, if not a little more. I used to specify 220% as the ratio in Slic3r, but I've since moved back to using slic3r defaults, it is giving me a ratio of 280% - my layer height is 0.2, and my resulting extrusion width is 0.56. Having a wider bead increases the top and bottom surfacby TRoager - Printing
Hello everyone. I'm having a big problem with my Prusa i3. The problem is when I'm extruding it looks almost perfect. Just the way i want an object to look like from a printer like this. But after a few minutes the print begins to crack/delaminate. i have tried raising my temperature on hot end and the bed but nothing seems to really help just make it worse. Heres my settings: Prusa i3 E3D Hoby TRoager - Printing
Hello Folks. Im having a hard time compiling Slic3r from github on my Mac, i have followed all the instructions on github, changed my perl to 5.12 instead of 5.16 and i installed command line tools. and I'm getting an configuration error on the command line. How can i compile Slic3r on Mac so its an App like the precompiled versions ? - TRoagerby TRoager - Slic3r
Quoteikilledkenny If you are still getting de-lamination issues check for random air movement around the room, or even the fan on your hot-end. Even the slightest amount of air movement can suck the heat right out of your hot-bed. If you are still having issues with large ABS parts try covering your printer with a turkey/oven bag. The idea here is to help prevent outside air movement from affeby TRoager - Printing
QuoteRalf You will have to experiment with the parameters, to find out what works best on your printer, there is simply too many variables that can be tuned, and something which works on one printer might not work on another printer. There is a reason why comercial printers is locked down in every way, requiring filament from the vendor, and has a limited selection of hotends etc. as this is theby TRoager - Printing
QuoteOsios Printing to hot, over extrusion at what temperature ??by TRoager - Printing
Maybe i should try it out Then. But What speed settings?by TRoager - Printing
QuoteRalf More heat on the hotend, 108 is fine for the bed, but if you get problems with overhangs and pointy details curling up, for the bottom 1-5 mm of the print, you might have to lower the bed temperature after the first layer. So 240 on the hotend ?by TRoager - Printing
QuoteRalf It ts perfectly doable to print ABS at room temperature without the parts delaminating, of course boxing the printer in a heated chamber is better. What do you recommend for printing in room temp? More heat on extruder and What about heatbed ? I Can only get it to stick at 108 or more on the bed.by TRoager - Printing
QuoteRalf There is no guarantees, but printing ABS too cold, typically leads to delamination. Your hobbed bolt is probably ok if it's from RepRapWorld. the delimitation isn't caused by room temperature ?by TRoager - Printing
QuoteRalf You should try to get the pemperature up a bit, wraping the heater block on the hotend in some kind of isolation, will help, but depending on hotend design, this is easier said than done, I use "power wrap" normally used to isolate exhaust manifolds. An alternative is Kapton applied loose, e.g. with a lot of folds and air boubbles, the uglier the better.. Also take a close look at theby TRoager - Printing
QuoteRalf The defects seen on the pictures you posted, wont disapear by switching to a bowden setup, it might be even more dificult to get rid of them, as you have a few more variables to take into account with a bowden setup. My limited experience with a bowden setup is that it requires more tuning to get nice results, compared to a classic setup with the extruder mounted directly above the hoby TRoager - Printing
Well my problem isn't the speed its more likely the quality of the print, I'm seeing a lot of layers now, id like to reduce the over/under extrusion I'm getting.by TRoager - Printing
i have been looking for Ninja Printer Plate or the carbon printer plate to replace the kapton tape. but haven't seen any good reviews of it yet, and quite expensive. so i really don't think the heated bed is my problem for the delimitation, and i think a heated chamber is a lot of work and can't find any good chambers for the Prusa i3. I'm waiting for some new filament to print some new parts foby TRoager - Printing