Another possibility is that the holes didn't print correctly and closed up. When I printed my x-motor mount the holes for the switch did that. A small drill bit fixed the problem.by cdru - Mendel90
I guess it wasn't so much to actually check it aside from a basic continuity test, but to be aware if you have issues still. If it is damaged, the resistance should increase and may trip at a lower current then previously. The spec sheet says that at 23 deg C the resistance should be between .01 and ,03 ohms. If you haven't powered it in a while (a "cold start" so to speak) and it's outside thatby cdru - RAMPS Electronics
I'm not familiar with the MKS Base board, but with RAMPS servos often can't be driven by the 5V supplied by the Arduino's regulator. If the Base board's regulator is marginal, it may be in a similar situation. If you're using a ATX power supply, try hooking the servo's 5V up directly to the power supply.by cdru - Controllers
Melzi, RUMBA, RAMBO, RAMPS...they're all pretty similar and run off the same ATMEGA family of microprocessors. Individual components may be slightly different or different combinations of configurations but they are all well supported. Wire them up correctly with whatever header pins or screw terminals or whatever connectors they have and they should operate the same. Yes, you should be ableby cdru - Controllers
I'd also double check operation of the smaller polyfuse. The dead short likely released the magic smoke of the D2 before the fuse was affected, but the short may damage the internal composition so that it doesn't operate as it normally would.by cdru - RAMPS Electronics
Quote691175002Its pointless for every household to own a printer when they will spend 99% of their time idle. Sharing a few extremely advanced machines (multimaterial, high quality, etc...) makes more sense.Couldn't the same argument be made for the printing press and computer printers? Yet here we are with many people owning cheap, disposable inkjet printers...by cdru - General
That's not a RUMBA board. That looks like a standard RAMPS 1.4 board that happens to be white. You can find the pin numbers here.by cdru - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteDust Older.Unless time travel is invented. Then it might be younger.by cdru - General
Quotecxandy Smart ramps Do you have one of those? I'm curious what MOSFETs they are using and how they are driving them.by cdru - General
What type of printer do you have? Delta, Cartesian, etc?by cdru - Printing
Quoteaduybut what does the diode do?The diode used in conjunction with a transistor is referred to as a flyback diode. When an inductive load (such as a fan or motor) is normally operating, the diode just sits there doing nothing. When the circuit is broken, the inductive load can produce a voltage spike which can damage electronics. The flyback diode allows the inductive load to draw current fby cdru - General
All the 12V connections for hot ends, heated beds, etc should be 12V hot all the time. It's the ground that is switched. Just use one of those screw terminals for a fan if you want fused protection and then the main supply ground as your grounding point. That sensor has a range of detection of 5cm-3mm. That may mean that it's precision isn't all that great so the point where it closes may notby cdru - General
QuoteskynetprinterSo to recap, i keep the board wired the same, then i fix in the 24v GND wire along side the 12v GND input on the board, Yes, tie the two grounds together. They'll share the same ground plane. Quoteand i change the heatbed input to 24V with a fuse on it.Yep. QuoteWill a motorbike fuse be OK? What amperage should the fuse be rated for?Any type of blade-style fuse will be fine iby cdru - General
QuoteDjkingsley 60 degrees Kelvin is -213.15 degrees Celsius. I believe you meant to use 333.15 degrees Kelvin which would give you 3.5 W/m^2K * 1m * 333.15 K = 1166 WNo. The formula is for the Δt...I just happened to put what the Δt was and not (80 degrees C - 20 degrees C). The original example was 20 degree C ambient air temperature and a theoretical 80 degree C build chamber. That's 60 degby cdru - General
They are compatible as in pin compatible with regard to add on displays. So if a display works with RAMPS, it should work with MKS. It's based on the same MEGA2560 microcontroller chip that is used with a RAMPS board so it should be able to run firmware RAMPS could: Repetier-Firmware, Marlin, Sprinter, etc. Any host software that can talk to the firmware should work: Repetier-Host, Pronterfaceby cdru - Controllers
QuoteAndrewBCNI am trying to think of a possible explanation for the manufacturer of the PCB to have added these shorting islands but in the end I just think it is an error by the PCB (re)designer who just did not understand the purpose of these jumpers. Sometimes people have a hard time even doing a straightforward copy-and-paste...If you go with the idea that everyone would want 1/16 microsteppby cdru - RAMPS Electronics
Stepper motor leads are not standardized AFAIK. They often have the colors that you see but it's not required. You'd have to look at the spec sheet if you wanted to know without testing which colors goes to which coil. Measuring the resistance between pairs should show which two wires in each pair are connected, and as George pointed out above, direction doesn't matter and can be flipped the firmby cdru - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteDjkingsleyI think that there is a Celsius, Fahrenheit, and Kelvin conversion issue in your equation.Feel free to point them out. Or if I need to provide sources to back up my math I can do that as well. All my units should be metric (Watts, meters, Kelvin) and the temperature component is actually a delta temperature change so degrees Celsius or Kelvin doesn't matter...they are the same jusby cdru - General
Quote3DPrintingNoob I thought I should add that the bed will be moving vertically, yes, however, it will be extremely slowly. So I don't think the cables need to be highly flexible. What I really need are cables that can withstand high temperatures, i.e. 150+ deg-C. Where would you suggest I can find some? I have found some suppliers but I thought maybe you would know better ones.The rate of speeby cdru - General
QuoteSamS Let's assume the total surface area of an enclosure is about a square meter. That's a five-faced cube with ~450mm sides, and we're going to assume the table or whatever it's on isn't giving us any heat loss. I should probably account for a few more things, and my system is a little too ideal but this is just to illustrate a concept. So now let's use 6mm polycarbonate. It seems to be aby cdru - General
QuoteAndrewBCNThe heated bed from the D10 connector: DON'T!!! The large current traces and the 11A fuse on the RAMPS are only for the D8 connector.RAMPS 1.4 doesn't have different size traces for D8-D10.They're all the same. (unless someone redesigned the circuit board). The 11A fuse though still holds true why you can't switch to a different output.by cdru - General
QuoteSonI'm not sure how do I check if bad solder joint is "bad" so I'm posting pictures of it.It's easiest with a multimeter that has a tone for continuity, but you can use one that shows just the resistance too. Hold one end of the lead on the pin that leads to the Mega board. Touch the other probe to the other end of the circuit. You should hear a tone or have close to 0 ohms resistance. Toucby cdru - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteDust Whats needed Better connectors all over, locking and impossable to plug in backwards and over spec Higher spec mosfets Replace polyfuses with car type fuses 35v caps under pololu drivers so board will support 24v (some do this already) Thicker tracks to all mosfets and their power connector to support more current. Replace D1 with a 8-10volt voltage regulator (so no matter if you useby cdru - RAMPS Electronics
Quotekman1863I'm looking to build a 3D Printer driven by one of the standard Arduino boards.What is a "standard" Arduino board? If you mean something like the Uno, they can theoretically be used but it's very bare bones electronics. You start having to make compromises because of fewer available pins.by cdru - General
QuoteAndrewBCNNext, install OctoPrint on an OctoGoatBox based on a RPi V2. That`s around $ 60...Why not save $25 and just use a RPi 2?by cdru - Controllers
Your wiring appears to be correct. You might double check to make sure you have 12V from where you have the brown dot to where you have the blue dot...just to make sure there isn't a bad solder joint. Move the probe so that it shouldn't be tripped. Enter the command M119 and what is returned for z-min? Move the probe so that it should be tripped. Run M119 again. It should be different. If thby cdru - RAMPS Electronics
Quotetmorris9Franck...Franck posted his question 2 years ago. He probably either figured it out by now, or gave up.by cdru - Printing
Yes, you can grab 12V from the header pin next to the X driver, next to diode D2. The top pin is the +12v pin. The blue and black wires are for - and S respectively and still connect at the end stop headers. Be sure you don't use the +5V pin at the endstop header.by cdru - RAMPS Electronics
Well wired like that it's not going to work either since the ramps connector is still supplying it with only 5V plus your resistors are completely wrong if not furthering your problem. If you are going to use 12V, you'll have to steal it from elsewhere on the board as the endstop connector is 5V. Even if you take the 12V elsehwere, you still don't need any resistors. The sensor just acts as a swby cdru - RAMPS Electronics