how many top infill layers do you have it set to currently? and also you can change the thickness of the lines by increasing flow rate for infill in the print settings->infill. change value from 0 to 100% or to 110% you can also modify bridge flow rate if needed (this is the first layer above a gap. the setting is in the same section.by jamesdanielv - General
i would check your starting z height, that sounds like it could be causing the increase in back pressure. do you have a picture of your hot end and fan setup? if increasing infill speed makes it work better then the pla is probably heating up to the top of the hot end when it does not move thru as quickly. there is also a possible chance that flow rate may still need to be calibrated down. tryby jamesdanielv - General
your infill and inner perimeter are probably too fast for your design. also first layer height should be increased to 0.15 as well. normally first layer height is thicker or the same. if first layer is too low and flow is too high the feed stock can begin to skip because the back-pressure is too high. what seems to be happening to me is a loss of pressure in the the nozzle during infill structurby jamesdanielv - General
some questions that would make this easier to help: do you have a fan on the extruder cold region of the hot end to keep heat creep to a minimum? (this also reduces glass transition region of pla. when pla become soft it it really hard to push through. a fan keeps the glass transition region smaller and makes it flow easier.) also what happens if infill speed is lowered to 25 as well? if the samby jamesdanielv - General
its hard to know what is going on unless a picture is provided of how it is printing, I'm glad you got the help you needed though. Personally I'd be grateful for people chiming in to help! edit: i did not mean a flame war to begin! what i'm trying to say is more heads are better than one when someone is trying to communicate the problem.by jamesdanielv - General
perhaps one of the stepper motors is backwards? can you power unit off, and then set all 3 arms at different heights, then power on and home it. axis that goes down is likly backwards, or have you checked in firmware that stepper size is consistent and that microsteps are the same on the board, or if ramps in the firmware?by jamesdanielv - General
double and triple check the wiring. usually slash is a separator for current temp vs/ set temp. look here for more infoby jamesdanielv - General
my guess is either a short in the heater of which you can check its resistance, and a possibility that 350watts (of which half the power is 12v and likely the other half 5v) may not have enough power to work properly especially so if you are using a heated cartridge, or a 2 resistor setup. check the heater wiring, and also verify the current rating for 12v. labels should be on the side of the suby jamesdanielv - General
you mean the fan port near the d2 diode connection? in the diagram the fan connector this traces gnd and 12 volt line directly. I would only worry about trace thickness as to how much power runs thru those traces. you can assume 0.00137 inch thick copper board thickness or 0.034798mm thickness and calculate current flow. to push 1 amp the trace width of the fan line would need to be 0.3by jamesdanielv - General
you ask one of the admins about adding your printer design model.by jamesdanielv - General
you will also want to look at the pin number and match it to this diagram all the pins i/o on the port/channel that was blown wont work any more. perhaps they can work as inputs, you would need to checkby jamesdanielv - General
motor x,y,z are motor motions that are linear, but in functional space of the delta system motion is not the same for each motor. you have the motors motion and then you have the axis motion of x,y,z in 3d space. actually there is a difference such as the calculation of difference on y and z when x moves up y is ~2/3 and z is ~1/3 . order is very important to keep turret head in absolute positioby jamesdanielv - General
list your configuration. also have you checked your limit switches, and disabled the software max, and enabled the software min limits. are you sure the motors are on correct axis, order of motors play an important part in the motion of the delta machine. test the limit switches by sending gcode command M119. this will give you status of the switch state. after verifying axis and labeling it dby jamesdanielv - General
you can print parts up to 100mm in size without a heated bed with pla and sometimes with abs, the issue is shrinkage and warping at the bottom because of the cooling. this can be alleviated with rafts, and leaf end tabs, or extremely slow print speeds, but your going to use about 45% of your build material supporting the structure to insulate and to prevent warping. it is a time of print and or cby jamesdanielv - General
perhaps talk to the vendor, and have it replaced, or have them send you a working firmware.by jamesdanielv - General
here is an example if you use slic3r slicer3r look here under size and coordinates or you could reach richraps guide that can help. no one can help you with step by step unless we know what slicing program you are using for gcode.by jamesdanielv - General
you know the only thing that has v3 in front of it is this version. marlin versions are more by date. you can also contact the vendor and see if they provide a link to a firmware already setup.by jamesdanielv - General
the link above is incomplete for Moral rights (copyright law). it actually seems to be an error of the forum generator, not the author. if i try to link it it does not finish the second ')' this is the complete link 'http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moral_rights_(copyright_law)'by jamesdanielv - General
You need Marlin firmware v3 or newer. have you switched the ribbon cables around? have you read this? these instructions are for v1, but should still apply. In "Configuration.h” Change line 46 to “#define MOTHERBOARD 33” Change line 306 to “#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER” (just remove the // at the beginning) Change line 326 to “#define NEWPANEL //enable this if you have a click-by jamesdanielv - General
are you printing from sd card?by jamesdanielv - General
ok 15 amps is the minimum if you have a heated bed. you can turn down your max power to heaters and that should help keep within the power limits #define PID_MAX 180 #define MAX_BED_POWER 200by jamesdanielv - General
before i go into this on how to make your own g code. i should state that m126 and m127 does just that for a valve. i do not know how to set it up though, nor do i see an easy way to configure it yes it would be easier if it was a M command. look at used m codes here: then look at gcode compliance here M stands for Miscellaneous function in marlin for example there are no M codes from 700by jamesdanielv - General
no, the only parts that require the current provided of combining the wires was for power to the heated bed. but it wont hurt it if you do.by jamesdanielv - General
do you have any power management on the computer? is it disabled? you don't want it to power down or start to after a few minutes. something is causing the board to loose power. is it a short, or is it just loss of power to the arduino setup? what board type are you using? what type of power supply are you using? what is going on. the communication is being sent out, but nothing is receivby jamesdanielv - General
for some reason i thought slic3r also had this.by jamesdanielv - General
perhaps something like this? the cylider wall is slightly slanted into a cone shape, allowing part to flex and hold something. code written in openscad file is attached as well: james villeneuve snap example compensates for tolerance and wear. difference(){ cube(size=[10,10,5],center=true); cylinder(r1=7/2,r2=7/2,h=12, $fn=20, center=true); } difference(){ cylinder(r1=6/2,r2=6/2,h=5, $fnby jamesdanielv - General
yes you want more amps for 12v. for simplicity 5v circuits are not used by reprap in current configurations (ramps), the voltage is stepped down to 5v for the board logic by a voltage regulator on the board. If you do not have the amps (current) voltage will drop off, and electronics drivers will suffer in performance, and heated bed will not heat properly. also if power supply is saturated, anby jamesdanielv - General
I would recommend 400-500 watts for everything as anything less has sob stories of dead power supplies. take the max power and half that for the 12volt rails. reprap wiki recommends at least 240watts for heated bed machines, but not all supplies are equal, and this is absolutely pushing it! however you may run into issues with the 300 watt delivering enough power for the heated bed. it may wby jamesdanielv - General
wood is not flat, and it warps based on outside temp and humidity but you could use it temporarily. even longer if you clear coat it and then add acrylic to the surface. parts will stick to the acrylic, which will peal off instead of the wood. but what is most common is to use wood and blue tape. glass is ideal because it is rolled flat.by jamesdanielv - General
here is what i get for info on the motors. what concerns me is the voltage required to drive the motors .Voltage Rating: 6.4VDC (Unipolar Connection) / 9.0VDC Bipolar Connection Specifications: Series: Nema17 Type: Standart Coil Type: 2-Phase Hybrid Voltage Rating: 6.4VDC (Unipolar Connection) / 9.0VDC Bipolar Connection Supply Voltage: Up to 12-36VDC Rated Current: 1.2A (Unipolar Connection)by jamesdanielv - General