I've been using Noctua thermal paste left over from my CPU cooler. It's been perfect for over 6 months now.by GTIspeeder - General
jimmy0x52 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Awesome I assume you printed all those upgrades > with the machine? Some (Z mount and extruder gears)... I luckily also have a nicely tuned MendelMax for the printing initial parts.by GTIspeeder - General Mendel Topics
jimmy0x52 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Where are the files for that LCD holder?by GTIspeeder - General
loughkb Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Very nice build! Is that a hall effect transistor > based end stop for Z? Yep. You can see the magnet, just, above it.by GTIspeeder - General Mendel Topics
Hi Everyone, (also posted in the General Section) I wanted to share some pics of a new Prusa i3 Single-plate build that I've recently completed. For some bling, it's finished in anodized purple aluminium, yellow ABS parts and marine-grade stainless. It uses 10mm threaded rods and 10mm smooth rods for the Y-axis, 8mm for X and Z. Prints like a dream... not completely happy with the standardby GTIspeeder - General Mendel Topics
vegasloki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Good looking printer. I like the Z endstop > mounts. I'm not pleased with any of the i3 > endstop mounts I've tried so far. Are your source > files available? I was lazy and did the Z-stop in 123D... I know, I know I should have used Open-SCAD. The height of mine is custom for the SC10UU platform.by GTIspeeder - General
I was lazy and did the Z-stop in 123D... I know, I know I should have used Open-SCAD. The height of mine is custom for the SC10UU platform.by GTIspeeder - General
Hi Everyone, I wanted to share some pics of a new Prusa i3 Single-plate build that I've recently completed. For some bling, it's finished in anodized purple aluminium, yellow ABS parts and marine-grade stainless. It uses 10mm threaded rods and 10mm smooth rods for the Y-axis, 8mm for X and Z. Prints like a dream... not completely happy with the standard Prusa parts, I've also modded some ofby GTIspeeder - General
This should have the STLs that you're after. It has 8mm smooth rod and 10mm threaded rod. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:119616by GTIspeeder - Reprappers
I open up the bearing off the extruder and heat the ABS up to 120C. As it's approaching 110+C start gently pulling at the filament... it should come away in one piece and leave a clean nozzle. The start running PLA at about 210C and extrude any possible left over bits of ABS out... you'll find that there's a comfortable overlap in temps with both plastic. Then print! You can do the reverse wiby GTIspeeder - General
JP's alive and well on YouTube... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40id30dChnUby GTIspeeder - General
Hi Minded, It's a silly observation, but are you 100% sure that your ABS isn't PLA?by GTIspeeder - General
GTIspeeder Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > On this topic, can someone recommend the best i3 > plastic part design to use and that are reliable > to print? I see there are several versions. On further searching, I see Jo Prusa has uploaded an improved set of plastic... Here on GitHubby GTIspeeder - General Mendel Topics
On this topic, can someone recommend the best i3 plastic part design to use and that are reliable to print? I see there are several versions.by GTIspeeder - General Mendel Topics
Voltage drop and thin wires can also be a problem. Ensure that your wires driving your heatbed aren't unnecessarily long and are of adequate gague/thickness. You could also drive the heatbed with a relay and not directly from the driver board. Some driver boards can't provide adequate current for high heat.by GTIspeeder - General
I'll share my settings: J-Head extruding 3mm ABS @ 240 deg Heated bed with 3mm ceramic glass @ 110deg Kapton tape on glass - cleaned prior to heating with acetone to remove grease etc. Ensure you're not cooling the print with a fan or draft. If your print's lifting at 0.5mm, It's just not sticking at all and sounds like what would happen if you printed on a cold bed.by GTIspeeder - General
Try 110 deg on glass with Kapton tape cleaned with acetone.by GTIspeeder - General
Almost sounds like a speed/accel issue... have you adjusted the trimpot's on the drivers to gert an adequate motor voltage? Also worthwhile slowing all your speed and accel settings in firmware down until you get correct motor movement and then increase them. You may be driving your motors too fast when sending GCODE but not when joggin in pronterface.by GTIspeeder - General Mendel Topics
Hi Adam, I don't know Teacup, cup will respond in how Marlin does it.. perhaps it may help. End stop location is defined seperately to either MIN or MAX of each axis. Perhaps if you post your config settings for your firmware. Here's what mine looks like for the Mendelmax... you should have something similar to play with: #define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca seby GTIspeeder - General Mendel Topics
Igus bushings run on anodised aluminium rails...by GTIspeeder - General
Perhaps you could watch this video that explains the driver model and device support. There's also going to be a 3DP SDK to enable apps to better integrate and print. 3D Printing with Windows 8.1by GTIspeeder - General
Looks like you first need to calibrate Marlin with the correct number of steps per mm in your extruder (eSteps). You'll need to first work out how many steps that is for your extruder... have a read of this article. richraps calibration guideby GTIspeeder - General
If I had my time again, i'd go with 10mm over 8mm. 10mm vs 8mm gives you over 50% increase in cross-section area (pi x r squared). Also, you want your Z rods to be thick enough to resist any flex of your leadscrews.by GTIspeeder - General