Hi all, First thing first, I like 0.9.9 but every now and then I have to go back to the trusty old 0.72b This is one reason: Making a filter! (To put in front of a fan etc.) It is very easy to create a filter in slic3r. All you do is to make a filter shape using your cad program. Lets say 50x50mm and 3mm high solid block or just a circular shape. In slicer, set top and bottom layers to 0 andby IceMan - Slic3r
jbayless Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hey, > > My prof has recommended substituting plywood for > MDF for the Darwin that my team is building. The > reason being that plywood is much more durable. > > I'm just wondering if anyone has considered (and > rejected?) this before. What are the advantages of > MDF? > > We're orderinby IceMan - Mechanics
Hi, To me it looks like you are having some ozing issues. When it runs the long runs there is a lot of pressure built up so when you get to the end and the speed slows down/ direction changes there is a lot of built up pressure. This results in extra plastic being deposited as it starts on a new long stretch. I am looking at the first picture. In the corners where the diagonal moves are rather sby IceMan - Printing
Hi all, Thanks for the info I might give the x3 a go later on Regards Janby IceMan - General
Hi, You do that in slic3r Select the "Plater" tab and load your file Then select "Scale" and enter the value in % Then slice it by selecting "Export G-Code" Regards Janby IceMan - General
Hi all, Just wandering if those of you who are using the Azteeg X3 with its drivers, bed and so forth could comment on your experiences with these. I have only used the Arduino with the ramps 1.4 myself. From what I can read/see on their website it looks like an awesome package. Any feedback much appreciated. Regards Janby IceMan - General
Hi, I used to use slic3r 0.72 for a while as it was most accurate for me and most stable release until 0.98 and 0.99. Have tried Kisslicer a few times but had some issues with it until I tried RC3 and now the latest RC4 release. Kisslicer is absolutely fantastic. I have had to change my files in regards to hole sizes as it seems to be much more accurate. And I have also used the support featureby IceMan - Slic3r
Hi If you are making your first machine and speed is not critical, yes you can use normal threaded rods. I built my first machine using M8 rods for all axis. It is slow but I used it to print the parts for my next printer I used Arduino Mega 2560 with the Ramps 1.4 and the motors where some nema 23's that I had salvaged from some old printers. Worked fantastic. Regards Janby IceMan - Mechanics
Hi, "I thought that this was already done in the car industry.....in some of the new emerging countries/manufacturers of cars....... Drive them on dirt roads and they shake to bits/fall apart.......and when you get back on the sealed roads they....no hang on, they still fall apart" Joke aside, it is a very interesting concept and maybe we should make this into a competition! (??) Well, how aby IceMan - General
For my Wolfstrap I got some small drawer rails that are commonly used in slide out rangehoods (and of course in drawers) Think I paid approx $20 for 3 sets all up. They have little balls between the sliding profiles. Accuracy? Well Using threaded rods the printer is very slow but I made all the parts for my second printer with it and some of them are toothed pulleys (GT2) and they work fine. Yesby IceMan - Reprappers
3ddude Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Woo, one point! I'll take that with thanks > > Thanks to Iceman for taking the time to arrange > and see the challenge through You're welcome, Just wanted to say thanks to creators such as Katharos for designing and putting up objects for all of us to print. Without you I think many printers would be collectinby IceMan - Competitions
konwiddak Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I wonder if it would be possible to build a thin > shell of the object and then keep your extruder > still and pump it full of plastic. No...I can't see that as an option with todays printers as the plastic goes hard pretty soon after it leaves the nozzle and you would have nothing more than a big mess, it doesby IceMan - Competitions
Hi, I put it through Netfabb and the base seems ok but middle and top seems to have some issues. And as mentioned before you need support for the overhangs. Cheers Janby IceMan - Printing
Ok, let's give some points. Nothing too serious. The one with the highest score "wins" bragging rights My 3 point goes to Richgain for his "Black bird in the cage". I liked the quality of the cage all over, very nice print in my opinion. My 2 points goes to Konwiddak for his "IceBird in the Cage". Again I thought the cage came out pretty well. My 1 point goes to 3ddude for his "Pink Bird in theby IceMan - Competitions
That's how I did it. Everything from scratch including hotend, heated bed and extruder, good way to learn. And a lot of fun on the way. Does it work? Sure does. Regards Janby IceMan - Reprappers
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > To guarantee to get aluminium that is flat you > have to buy plate rather than sheet. It is a lot > more expensive though. Yes that is an option, but as you said the cost is prohibitive. Have to see how this first one goes, then do some testing. The acrylic way may be an option as well but I have not found any infby IceMan - General
Thank you for some valuable info I have put one together apart from belts and hotend/extruder. Tested movements using braid/fishing line Bit by bit i'll get there. Thanks again Janby IceMan - General
Hi all, I was wandering if anyone could tell me how the print quality is from an i3 with the 6mm alu frame the way Prusa designed it? Due to the manufacturing tolerances of aluminium sheets I have found that a lot of sheets have got a bow in them. As far as I know the tolerance is 7mm on a 1m lenght. (Information got from sheet manufacturers) So if you put a 1m ruler on top of the sheet you coulby IceMan - General
Hi I tried your file and it and I had no issues with slicer099 or kisslicer 1.10 rc2 apart from kisslicer reporting a minor issue but nothing to worrie about. I ended up using kisslicer with support (first time ever I have printed using support... ) The part came up quite good I thought, needs a bit more cleaning off of the support underneath Printed slow and with ABS no cooling Cheers Janby IceMan - Printing
Hi, You need to tell us more, what firmware you are using. Post your settings (firmware settings) This way someone may be able to help you. Regards Janby IceMan - General
Hi, Raised corners: Don't know your speed but try printing slower. When you print fast the extruder runs fast as well and when you get to a corner the speed slows down. But due to built up pressure in the nozzle at this point you are now extruding more then you should at the speed you are going at and more plastic is put down in the corners. The extruder has slowed down as well but the pressureby IceMan - Printing
patlink72 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > the Mendel90 seems to be the closest option so > far. As for electronics I am seeing how much of it > I could make myself. > Shame that I can't source the motors for old > electronics product. > Do would if I could make a smaller printer using > just free sourced parts and home made parts. To > deby IceMan - General Mendel Topics
Hi, Try to change your layer hight to 0.2 or even 0.25 to start with. 0.15 is a bit low for my liking when you try to calibrate/tune your first prints. Then change the retract speed to 15 and try again. I could be wrong but 40 is quite high I think. The extruder may not retract properly and therefore you get too much plastic coming out. Cheers Janby IceMan - Printing
SanjayM Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Double click and object on the plater or on the > item list, and you get a window with info about > that object. > > This window now has an extra tab for setting > varying layer heights. > > Took me a while to find this too! Sorry I did not respond back earlier, been very busy But thank you very mby IceMan - Slic3r
Hi Just trying the new release and so far so good. Was going through the new features and was wandering if any one could tell me where this one is: "ability to use multiple different layer heights in the same object" Can only see the option of having a different layer height between first layer and the rest but don't think that is a new feature. Cheers Janby IceMan - Slic3r
alj_rprp Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > 40W on 12V, that is 3.3A and with PWM on, only > about 60% duty for 200°C. > steppers are 1.6A max but also not on 100% duty. > so that falls under the 5A at 100% duty. > > Classic resistors are 6.8 Ohms so give just below > 2 amps. And with less wattage, they have a higher > duty, because the heatby IceMan - General
Correct me if I am wrong but 12V and 40W is too powerful if you are using a ramps board. That's almost all the 5amps just for the hotend. Or am I missing something?by IceMan - General
Here's a photo of the 2 prints I did. Pretty average prints but popular....got requests for 3 more...by IceMan - Competitions
Sounds like you need to calibrate your printer. X, Y (and Z) Regards Janby IceMan - General
Komb' Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > IceMan, > > I just realized you asked how did you, not how do > you. > > Still, the information should be good for somebody > reading this later. I sure did, was just trying to get AVRkire to trace his steps/find the info you just gave by himself. Not being rude by any means, but one learn more by diggby IceMan - Printing