Thanks for the update Adrian. A low entry point for Huxley would really help adoption of Reprap. I'm also sure Huxley would be a great standby machine (repstrap) for fixing Mendel. Electronics for Huxley should be simple (basic) and not SM if possible, single pcb or better still off-the-shelf. Good luck, you have lots of people ready and happy to help.by richrap - Huxley
Very nice design Thorp. I also would like a vertical motor design. How is the nozzle thermally insulated from the heatsink? the light green area? I'm stuck with my nozzle design heating the main barrel and heatsink as I wanted to remove the need for PTFE/PEEK barrier, but my design is not looking very viable at the moment, you have inspired me to have another try. I guess there is no reason whyby richrap - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Hi Capo Nice blog about warping, it's an interesting area for development. I'm in the same position at the moment without a working machine, but I will experiment further when I have a repstrap up-and-running. It would be good to investigate if you can counteract the warp actually in the design / build process but I'm not sure how much of a temperature range you get to play with (ABS) it looksby richrap - General
Nice casting job, what material do you use for the molds? What stops the Y and X carriages lifting up or rocking? do they have clamps or another set of bearings on the underside? Do you add any metal or support in the castings? to aid strength. Have you printed anything on it yet?by richrap - General
Quite a few of the casting materials can heat up as they cure and a few other types are heated up before being poured, but I doubt they would have used these? - Vinamould Thinking about it Vinamould may make a good support material... I have used it for casting, and it can be reused many times. Plaster mold would have also heated them. Makes me wonder if you alternated each layer temperatureby richrap - General
jbayless - Would be great fun to experiment with. You could also try a cool air jet blowing across/ inside the part as it printed. (Attach it to the print head). Just don't get the hot bit wet !by richrap - General
Hello and Welcome - First Read the Wiki - WADE Extruder Then try to get hold of the Parts on eBay - Extruder on eBay - Don't bid on this one, I'm going for it ! Or elsewhere ... Or make one to do the same job (Repstrap) - Buy a good Heater Hot-End I got hold of this one, very nice - Hot Endby richrap - For Sale
I expect It's not really worth the effort, cost and complexity using induction or any non-direct heating. Why not just use an Aluminium heated 'bobbin' coil you can screw-on the heater tube, so it could be removed if required. Direct heating with a resistor, element or wire is always going to be more straightforward especially for DIY projects. What would be really good would be a way to swapby richrap - General
That was about the same for me, if you click on the click here for the report data it should show various error messages in the debug info. I tried it on two different systems, and in various Windows compatibility modes, all useless. This chap talks about the demo being Chinese and English, so maybe it's working for some systems - Up Forum post I think the Demo on Youtube was running under Wiby richrap - General
Crashes for me also, the error report mentions all sorts of interesting things, like SD card Reading/Writing, so may be trying to connect to their motherboard? Looks like it's written in Java - (CXTPToolBar, CTXColor Picker, Controlwindowslist) It also has error messages for N1 and N2 (2 Nozzles ???) N2 Not Hot N2 Hot Enough Other stuff in the error report (Just a quick scan) - Can't Findby richrap - General
Cool! Keep in touch, let me know how you get on. I hope to be starting assembly this week, and may get my electronics at some point this week also.by richrap - United Kingdom RepRap User Group
Good Idea. I would have to say that during my research reprapcentral.com seems to be the most expensive way to buy anything, I have not used them so maybe they have good service? but a very high cost in my opinion. They have a minimum order of £20, fair enough almost anything on their site will get over thatby richrap - Reprappers
Has anyone tried heating a warped part in the oven? 190? deg for a few mins, does it correct the warp or just make it into an even more useless blob?by richrap - General
I like the 'microscope style' rotate idea, but you still have the problem of sealing it shut after rotation. Does anyone have a removable Hot-end design? some sort of screw-fit? I always wondered why you can't just build a framework in ABS and then have another extruder (2-3mm nozzle) that just squirts out extruded 'hot glue' let it flood the inside of the part, settle and cool a bit then cap iby richrap - General
If it is silicone I'm interested to know how well it would work for Mendel. Could you not just use a Silicone baking sheet? I guess it could be a silicone/acetone mix to keep it sticky or soak into the base material?- They use a heated bed, so it must have some sort of use. Maybe they print much faster so it's getting flung about a bit more? the Youtube vid was quite quick printing the little potby richrap - General
Anyone know or can guess what they paint onto the heated bed platform before a print? - "Due to strong shaking, the object you print will not stand steadily on the platform, to settle this problem we come up with a solution which is to paint the platform with a special coating." You should read this blog page, it's very funny - And remember you had better wear a pair of golves !by richrap - General
This group seem hard to find for new rep-rappers, I didn't find it and was directed by Sebastien. Anyway I just wanted to know if anyone making a reprap repstrap is in the south west or Wales or Birmingham? Richby richrap - United Kingdom RepRap User Group
Just spotted this - 3D printer from China They have a Forum (sort of) - Nice design - Stick a little Apple on it, paint it White and it will sell bucketloads They seem to have support material working, single head design. I'm going off to look at my pile of bits in the garage... At least got my ABS and FTDI interface board today, come on and send me my electronics and motors.by richrap - General
Nice model But it Looks like you have no resolution ? Just a 1/4 turn of the stepper? and the red bed is going to put sideways pressure on you'r motors I don't think that's not going to work.by richrap - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Just spotted you are in the US How popular is the idea of Mendel out there? Looking from the outside it seems to be dominated by kits and ready-made's Have you thought about a Laser-cut kit? I'm not recomending it, but just take a look Anyway good luckby richrap - General
Hi Adam, I also almost bought a ready-made kit (Techzone) but I'm so glad I didn't do it. If you are planning to fund a ready-made kit by selling parts to reprappers, then think again. After deciding not to buy a kit I looked for Mendel parts on eBay, and a few options spring up. Really fantastic parts from Nophead, and some other cast resin parts, but I was not ready to invest that much (aboby richrap - General
Hi cmchap, Welcome to the wonderful world of Reprap. Jolly good luck with the adventure. And I would recommend building a Repstrap first, you will learn much and gain respect for doing it. You may want to rethink the "Stormtrooper Helmet" statement, was rooting for you until then.by richrap - Kartik M. Gada Humanitarian Innovation Prize
Macor thermal conductivity is not too different from Glass, slightly better (Being about as good as a house brick !) Macor being 1.46 W/m°C Glass being 1.05 W/m°C Aluminium is 250 W/m°C Brass 109 W/m°C Concrete Brick 1.4 W/m°C PTFE - 0.25 W/m°C But as it can withstand 800 deg C you could just use crank up the heater power... but then what do you use to insulate that ? It's getting hard tby richrap - General
Has anyone looked at Macor? (Machinable Glass Ceramic) to do this. Ok it's not clear, but has a nice spec 1000 deg C, strong and can be machined with normal metalwork tools, non porous and you can both metalise it, and epoxy it. No idea how expensive it is, but if someone with a metal lathe could get hold of some and try it? It's expensive, but available from RS - 6mm x 100mm Rod is £30+vby richrap - General
Very good point Nophead, I expect I'm looking to solve a problem that's already solved. 140deg - is much hotter than I expected to be needing, Do you need this surface temp to transmit enough heat up the layers of the part being printed? Could you not use a modified heatgun and some sort of round barrier around the object being printed then try to spin the hot air in a sort of vortex so it keby richrap - General
Thanks everyone. I'm going to make a simple bed as sugested, Alu and some metal clad resistors. I may try Tufnol (1mm) as a top build surface as it seems to have the same or better thermal conductivity as Kapton. I'm still a while away from a working machine, so if anyone can test Tufnol I would be very interested to see if heated ABS sticks to it?by richrap - General
Hello, I'm in Gloucester, it looks like a few from Cheltenham, but not many posts in 2010, apart from annodomini2 if any of you or bristol / bath / swindon are still reprapping, let me know! I'm a bit late getting started, but there must be still lots to evolve in this project. Cheers, Richby richrap - United Kingdom RepRap User Group
Thanks Sebastien, I totally missed the UK group forum, I will take a look today, looks like many more are doing this in the UK than I thought, and some very close to me!. I'll have a go at updating the Wiki, but after I have a working machine as I'm sure something will be wrong with my ideas and changes. I'll also get started on the Electronics, maybe start with a combined dual Extruder and duaby richrap - Reprappers
Ok Thanks, The Gen2OnABoard is nice. I think a single combined Gen 3 PCB with component positions for both Conventional (Thru-hole) and Surface-mount would be a nice board for DIY construction and then less machine wiring.by richrap - Reprappers
I'm trying to design a heated build platform, and was wondering if any of these material below have been tested as a suitable printing face, I know some of them will thermally insulate, but I was thinking about a thin layer as the top (removable) surface- Acetal - (Delrin) - Tufnol - Polycarbonate - Annodised Aluminium - Galvanised Steel - Limestone / Marble (Like a polished tile) -by richrap - General