You're right and I am just being nit-picky. I came across your blog post in which you actually tested the fan duct I'm using, the one by Daniel Bull and it's pretty conclusive that the duct is not fit for purpose, and clearly illustrates why I'm getting poor quality results on the side furthest away from the fan. I'll print the 'official' duct and I'll stop questioning your thorough research!by remondo - Mendel90
ZQuoteDust DId you also get new *2GT* Pulleys, as from what I read 2GT tooth profiles are not the same as cheap gt2 pullies Apologies for the lack of information. Yes I also replaced the pulleys with genuine Gates Powergrip pulleys, all purchased from E3D online so they should be compatible. Quotenophead Not sure what you mean by 20 tooth being lower resolution. 20 times 2 is 40mm, the same asby remondo - Mendel90
I've recently rebuilt my Mendel90 and switched to genuine Gates Powergrip 2GT belts and an E3D V6 hot-end however I'm now experiencing rounded corners when printing the calibration cube. In the attached photo the cube on the left is the most recent print with 2GT belts printed at 40mm/s and on the right is using the original T2.5 belts printed at 50mm/s. As you can see, the corners are not sharpby remondo - Mendel90
I've just replied to your other post but I agree with nophead here, I'm not sure if a new board would solve the issue. If you did want to get a new board anyway, there's a great blog post here documenting the upgrade process from another Mendel90 user I'm currently considering switching to an SKR board with some TMC drivers to try to reduce the noise of my printer a little and upgrade to Marliby remondo - Mendel90
If new linear bearings don't resolve the issue, I would thoroughly inspect the printer to rule out worn out or loose parts, particularly the printed plastic parts. I'm actually in the process of rebuilding and updating my Mendel90 with a full set of new plastic parts printed in Polymax PETG. I found that many of the original ABS plastic parts showed signs of fatigue and when I came to disassemblby remondo - Mendel90
Thanks for that useful information. I narrowed the problem down to the power terminal on the Melzi and while desoldering the terminal to replace with a new one, the solder pad came off. It must have been making a poor connection due to the pad being damaged. The terminal twisted a bit when I tightened the screws so that could have caused it. Thanks to nophead for suggesting I scrape the solderby remondo - Sanguino(lolu)
Sorry for the double post but I did as instructed (scratched the solder resist off) and everything is working as expected again. Fingers crossed it stays that way this time; I'll remain pessimistic for the time being! It must have been that dodgy ground hole after all. Perhaps the old PSU is also fine but I'll stick with this one for now. I get the full 12V now when JP15 is set to VREG and theby remondo - Mendel90
Ok I will give that a try, thanks. Which side of the board should I scrape off or does it not matter? Edit: Just realised that's a stupid question because I wouldn't be able to access the upper side with the terminal in the way.by remondo - Mendel90
Well I think I might have found the culprit. As I desoldered the power terminal to fit a new one the solder pad came with it, complete with the little copper ring inside the hole. I don't think it was making good contact because I was able to heat the bed by applying pressure to the screw terminal sometimes. I don't suppose you have any Melzi boards for sale, or know of a reputable supplier to gby remondo - Mendel90
I don't know how that is happening either. I've just had a look at the back of the melzi and it looks fine. I might solder on a new terminal just to be sure. As I mentioned here, it's only when I heat the bed that it draws power through the USB cable, when JP15 is set to VREG. The extruder takes power from the PSU. I've been powering the Melzi via the USB since I've had it without issues. It'sby remondo - Mendel90
I've been using a Melzi (v1 I believe, with an Atmega644A) on my Mendel90 for several years now with Jumper 15 set to USB. It has suddenly dawned on me that I should be powering the Melzi from the PSU so I set the Jumper to VREG (the pins closest to the screw terminals) and tried heating the bed. It seemed to take a while so I checked the voltage at the terminal and it read 6.53V. It was at thisby remondo - Sanguino(lolu)
I've just tried printing from the SD card which seems to work. When I read the voltage on the heated bed terminals it reads 6.53V, is this correct? Shouldn't it be ~12V? Edit: I'd been moving the jumpers around and just realised it was taking power from the USB cable to heat the bed! SD card printing does not work when powered from the PSU. I've ordered the aluminium clad resistors for the PSU;by remondo - Mendel90
I seem to have solved the problem by taking both 12V and ground wires from only 1 cluster; specifically the striped 12V wires used for CPU power. I've just successfully heated the bed and started a print. I took extra care while soldering the wires together, tinning each end before I combined them to ensure each makes good contact. Now to level the bed again after all this messing around! Thankby remondo - Mendel90
Thanks for the reply. I keep the reset jumper removed (hanging on 1 pin) at all times except for when flashing. Is that not the correct way to set the jumper? I don't think the bed stays on as octoprint reports it at room temperature. One thing to note is that a few seconds after I set the bed temperature, I see this in the Octoprint console: QuotePrinter sent 'start' while already operationalby remondo - Mendel90
My Mendel90 (formerly a RepRapKitStore Prusa i2) has been working fine for many years up until a few days ago when it suddenly began powering down a few minutes into a print. The PSU would turn off and I'd have to wait a few minutes until it would turn back on again. I checked and tightened all terminals on the control board (Melzi) and had a good look over everything else but I can't spot a probby remondo - Mendel90
I've disabled PID and the sketch is still too big by 1086 bytes. Any other suggestions?by remondo - Controllers
I've priced the frame up at cutplasticsheeting.co.uk and it came to £53.57 inc. postage and VAT. I've realised that they won't cut the section out of the gantry so I'll have to do that myself. I don't have any power tools except for a drill and I doubt I can get hold of any, will I be able to cut this piece out with a stanley knife and some elbow grease? I won't be able to bend and snap it for thby remondo - Mendel90
Many thanks for the help and explanations. I'll try commenting out PID and see if I can get it all to fit.by remondo - Controllers
slymike Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You could always put the 1284 chip on, > I'm willing to do it for anyone who's interested, > only takes 5 minutes with the right soldering kit! I might take you up on that offer, my soldering skills are appalling. Will there be any compatibility issues from doing this?by remondo - Controllers
Thanks, after a bit more googling I found this suggestion but was unsure what caveats may arise from doing this. The obvious one is that the temperature may fluctuate a lot but how much of a problem is this? Having completed a few test prints with Marlin and comparing them to the same prints with Sprinter, I can't see any difference whatsoever. Marlin claims to create better arcs but I don't seby remondo - Controllers
I have one of the original Melzi control boards which has an ATmega644 chip which means I have limited space for my firmware. I've successfully transferred my settings from Sprinter to Marlin and uploaded to my board and all is working well but I had to disable SD support to fit the firmware on the chip. With SD Support enabled the sketch size is something like 66000 bytes but my board only hasby remondo - Controllers
I upgraded the firmware to Marlin and the issue is now resolved.by remondo - Controllers
Great, thanks for the info. I would be interested in a ready made frame depending on price, and am also interested in purchasing the PCB.by remondo - Mendel90
Thanks, I found that site but they only offer 4 holes drilled in the corners. Did you drill the holes yourself or did they drill custom holes for you?by remondo - Mendel90
Hi, I'm interested in converting my Prusa i2 to a mendel 90 to utilise the full 200mm Z-height but I'm struggling to find a supplier of Black Dibond who will cut and drill it precisely for me. Any suggestions on where to find a supplier in the UK? I also welcome any opinions on whether I should convert my printer to a Mendel 90 or a Prusa i3? I'm pretty set on the Mendel 90 but I'm interested inby remondo - Mendel90
Hi, I've fitted a 40mm fan to my Prusa i2 X-carriage and wired it to my Melzi board's fan terminals but Gcode commands such as M106 S255 do nothing. I've tested the fan by wiring it directly to my PSU and it works just fine. I've also tried swapping the polarity which did nothing. Is there something in the firmware or elsewhere which needs configuring to enable fan control on the Melzi board? Thby remondo - Controllers
Max, from the picture it looks like you need to tighten the idler screws and get some good compression in the springs, but don't overtighten them. You should be getting deeper grooves in the filament when you come to inspect it once it has passed the hobbed bolt. As for the chip, I've never seen that but if the idler is too loose it will cause the hobbed bolt to rip the filament to shreds. I've nby remondo - General Mendel Topics
By all means re-use the bearings for a spool holder but don't use them on the z-axis.by remondo - General Mendel Topics
These are the parts I have on my Prusa. The bearings snap in and can be secured by a single small zip tie. Just click downloads near the top right and then click download as zip to get the whole lot.by remondo - General Mendel Topics
I've dusted off my Prusa and am successfully printing again. I purchased some of this orange ABS, it isn't premium quality but it works, the filament diameter is consistent but you can hear air bubbles popping every now and then but it does not affect the prints. I plan on printing this new extruder which should allow slightly more Z height. When I tried to print using ABS I noticed my heated beby remondo - General Mendel Topics