Printer Settings --> "Extruder 1" and then in the "Retraction" box near the bottom is a check box labeled "Wipe while retracting". I hope it works for you. (I'm also using 1.1.7, but for the PC. I imagine they are the same in this respect). -Bretby cobrageek - Printing
I'm here to report back that the "wipe" option really does seem to help. It seems to do a little "curl" with the extruder at the end of each strip which seems to do the trick for keeping the little "tails" from sticking up. In my test print it went from only about 50% of the strips sticking well (no tail sticking up) to around 95% sticking down well without a tail. I think this will be sufficiby cobrageek - Printing
Thanks 3DK. I went through a process where I first ran 100mm through and made sure it was actually pumping through 100mm (right after I calibrated X, Y and Z). I printed out a few things at that setting but it was closing holes and extending past dimensions. So then I went through a process of tuning using "thin walls". I turned down the extrusion to get the wall thickness correct but that seeby cobrageek - Printing
I tried a couple of prints with 3mm retraction instead of 1mm and it seemed to make the problem worse. The "tail" as it left the small strip was still there, but then when it started the next piece it seems to leave a little gap and then a big blob. I also tried reducing the termp of the end to 190 but that did seem to cause other problems and everything started to snowball onto the extruder tiby cobrageek - Printing
OK, I ran a few tests just to see how the default "support" switch affected things. I created a simple scad ile with just a couple blocks stacked with a good 5mm between them. Without the support switch enabled it was just sliced as printing in mid air. With the support switch enabled slic3r added support for the upper block which seemed pretty reasonable I sliced the bearing again with and wby cobrageek - Slic3r
Interesting Dave. I had originally sliced it with 0.1mm layer height and so it came out to be quite a few layers (5 if I recall correctly and the "in air" print didn't really work. The little dots that were the start of the "balls" just stuck to the extruder and drug around. I just sliced it at 0.3mm layer height (usually works more easily for the printer) and the dot for the start of the ballby cobrageek - Slic3r
Cool. I found the old file and sure enough it says that the extrusion width is 0.40mm. And clearly some of the thin points were thinner than that. Nice tip Dave. Thanks!by cobrageek - Slic3r
Sorry, let me try to fill in some details: PLA, 200 hot end temp, 65 bed temp (70 for first layer). It's a glass (mirror) plate with watered down glue (also tried blue painters tape with similar results). 0.4mm nozzle with 1.75mm filament. 0.3mm layer height (0.35mm first layer height, but it pushes more material (200% first layer extrusion) and flattens out pretty well on the first layer).by cobrageek - Slic3r
I'm trying to print out these cool Gimbal Bearings: The problem I'm hitting is that the balls in the bearings appear in "mid air" in the STL file. I figured that I could just turn on "support material" and it would put support material under the start of the balls, but it doesn't appear to do that. The slicer setting I've found for support material has a setting for the biggest angle whereby cobrageek - Slic3r
That did the trick! I had it at the default setting of "0" which is really "Auto". I have a 0.4mm tip and it must take that as a 0.4mm extrusion width when in "Auto". When I change it to 0.3mm it connected one of the thin spots and going down to 0.2mm extrusion width connected both of them. Now I just hope that my printer can deal with that extrusion width :-). Thanks for the help!by cobrageek - Slic3r
Currently printing at 200. I've tried 190 but the extrusion width varies too much at 190 but at 200 it provides much more consistent lines. I'll set the retraction to 3mm instead of 1 and see if I notice any help. I can also try 190 to see if that solves this problem, but it will likely create other issues as the extrusion thickness gets inconsistent. Thanks!by cobrageek - Printing
I bought some polyflex (flexible PLA) and wanted to print one of their reference parts from Thingiverse: Slic3r seemed to do a fine job except for the really thin parts that are supposed to be the flexible connections between some of these pieces. You can clearly see the thin connection in the STL file, but when I look at the generated g-code in pronterface it's clear to see that there is notby cobrageek - Slic3r
I've been trying to print a few things which have some very small strips as the first layer (5x1mm for example). PLA and using Slic3r. I'm using a heated glass plate with watered down glue, but have also tried blue tape with similar issues. The strips seem to print fine, but when the head is leaving the strip it leaves just a little "tail" of plastic that sticks up just a bit. This is usuallyby cobrageek - Printing
Well, netfabb seemed to fix the dots problem, but I'm still struggling to get the little lines to stick to the print bed. there are so many little segments and they seem to just barely curl up on the ends sometimes depending on the next direction that the head moves. Then the next time the head moves by it peels them up and it all goes bad from there. I'm using glue on heated glass at this poiby cobrageek - Slic3r
I noticed that the stl file was broken so I generated a new one from the scad file. But maybe using net fab on the original stl will produce something better. I'll see if that one is any better. Thanks.by cobrageek - Slic3r
I'm using 1.1.6 slic3r to slice this design and the first layer starts with single dots in some places and then goes back to fill in more of the first layer. This makes it cry difficult to get it to stick and print properly. Any suggestions for settings that would fix the dots? I've tried the option to prevent crossing perimeters in hopes it would help, but it doesn't seem to fix the problem.by cobrageek - Slic3r
Thanks guys. 270 does seem a bit hot and it is PEEK-based so I'll avoid getting it that hot. The Temps from my setup are not calibrated and so could be off, but they are what the display says when it has been printing well. I run around 180 for this PLA and after a print I let it cool to 160 then pulled the filament out. It had a little "string" but wasn't as bad and didn't seem to cause a pby cobrageek - Printing
I have a reasonably well tuned Prusa 2 setup and the kids are really enjoying CADing things up and printing them out, but it's time to try another color of filament. I have changed filaments a couple of times and each time it has been a pain so I'm looking for tips. When cold I could not take the old filament out so I got the tip hot and then pulled out the old filament. But instead of it justby cobrageek - Printing
BTW, just in case anyone else runs into this problem I think it turned out to be a speed issue. When I turned down the "Top solid infill" and "Solid Infill" speeds it seemed to improve significantly. I'll see if I can actually fill in the "Speed" section on the pictorial troubleshooting wiki page with this picture example.by cobrageek - General Mendel Topics
BTW I did try doing some searches, but it was difficult to find anything that matched because description words can vary significantly. After posting I was able to find this great piece on the wiki , but it really doesn't have this exactly condition on the top. There are a couple that are similar, but not quite like this. I'll keep going with a couple other calibration guides too, but I was hoby cobrageek - General Mendel Topics
I just got my printer up and running and it's great fun. I tuned the extrusion amount based on pulling through 100mm of filament, but then when I printed calibration parts with holes the holes were way small (X and Y are perfect BTW). I then found a thin wall calibration item and reduced the extrusion amount to get the wall thickness correct, but then it seems like the prints are a bit "thin".by cobrageek - General Mendel Topics
OK, I think I have the problem solved. After repeating the problem last night I noticed that the Z-axis were squeaking quite a bit when turning so I used a very little light oil on them to smooth things out. That seemed to help which indicated that the motors were just working too hard for the speed/current settings. I considered upping the current from the drivers but decided that the Z-axis sby cobrageek - General Mendel Topics
Interesting. Both of these are set to "true" in my marlin config. I think these are just the software controls and that it just indicates that it will not tell the motors to go below what it believes are the 0 values. I've seen this behavior at times when I power it up with the head in a strange position. it won't go far in some directions until I do a "Home" on it so it resets the "0" positiby cobrageek - General Mendel Topics
Thanks Matt. I'll play around and see what solves the problem. (only change 1 variable at a time and test :-)). I did come up with another question. Don't the end stops work at other times besides when homing? Yes the Z-axis got confused by 3 or 4mm when it didn't actually go up but thought it did. But when it went back down to try to go to 0.35, it definitely hit the end stop and triggeredby cobrageek - General Mendel Topics
Thanks for the idea mappler. It was an interesting possibility, but I'm using the main github release of marlin and I checked and the auto-bed leveling stuff is disabled. But the idea of getting the reading of the XYZ positioning regularly helped me pin down the issue. I took just the top of the g-code file and tested it out a few times. When run slowly (typed in by hand) it didn't exhibitby cobrageek - General Mendel Topics
I'm trying to get my first print to work. I've done a bunch of alignment and setup the end stops so the auto-home function works perfectly. I used Slic3r to slice up a small calibration piece, got PLA to manually extrude, but then when I hit "print", the first real printing it does is past the Z-end stop scraping against the glass. Here's the start of the G-code from that came from slic3r: G2by cobrageek - General Mendel Topics
Thanks Tony. Interesting point about which fans should be on and which controlled. I ran across an extra 7805 in my junk pile and I think I'll stop being lazy and wire it up to the 12V signal (don't have an ATX supply) and use that to avoid any current limit issues on the sanguinololu regulator (powering the whole panelolu2). Then run the hot end fan directly to ground so it is always on and tby cobrageek - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I wired it up last night and with settings of 50, 80 and 100 it seemed to function pretty well and didn't seem to be overheating. So with the correct settings in Slic3r I think it should be fine. But I think I have a new idea. The fan I rigged up is focused on blowing through the vents in the J-head to keep the PLA cool until it hits the melting chamber. But I would also like to have somethinby cobrageek - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Thanks Tony. I'll start with a small PWM value and see how things go. I picked up a second fan so I have a spare in case something goes wrong. I'm pretty sure I've got the wiring correct on the fan. But the intended wiring from the panalolu2 is just to wire up the power and ground, right? So just ignore the sense and control wires. I'll let you know how things go, but I'm guessing it willby cobrageek - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Thanks for checking it out Tony. It must've just been the buadrate confusion because after putting it back to 115200 I was able to get pronterface working fine with the Panelolu. I could do manual movements with either one and the printer would respond just fine. But while I have your attention, let me ask another (hopefully) simple question. I found a little heat sink fan and rigged it upby cobrageek - Firmware - mainstream and related support