Maybe you have a bad/missing jumper for microstep setting? Extruding with 1/16 or 1/8 and having the wrong filament diameter set sums up to ~70% errorby o_lampe - Printing
Just for the record: What type of bed does the Ender3 have? A MK2b PCB heater or MK3 aluminum heat spreader style? Or something else, that doesn't seem to work without glass?by o_lampe - Printing
I'm glad my brain works in pictures. I could 'rewind' my memory and see me putting the board.....there!by o_lampe - General
I haven't used Marlin for a while. I don't know if Marlin supports T0, T1, G0 they way I thought it should... Maybe you can setup a mixing extruder and set the stirring speed by changing the mix-ratio. Anyway, in the code you posted, you have to replace F#### with F_desired_speed. Something low like F50 might work, depending on the steps/mm you've set for ( both? ) extruders.by o_lampe - General
I'd use spare a I/O pin and control a DC motor via external MOSFet to stirr the pellets. If you use a PWM capable pin you can control speed of the motor too. Look for 'N20 geared DC motors'. If you want to use a stepper, try T1 ; change tool to Extruder 2 G0 E99999999999999 F#### ; rotate E2 for a very long time T0 ; change back to normal extruder .... ; start the regular Gcode hereby o_lampe - General
QuoteAnd cars are designed by the best engineers. I had to giggle a bit, when I read that. But I support your point, so I don't start rambling about car industry. Let's say it take NASA or ESA engineers to build something that lasts for decades without service.by o_lampe - CoreXY Machines
The sand-blasting stuff sure is very abrasive and probably noiser than the average sand.by o_lampe - CoreXY Machines
I thought of printing a Xaphoon, but found they are already cloned. Don't remember the price, but it was way less than the original ABS Xaphoon. It plays pretty good, has a 'breezy' sound. It's always with me when I travel.by o_lampe - General
See the corners of the grey 'U' as pivot points and the forces will try to bend the bottom of the 'U' down. Just like the arrow indicates. One could add a horizontal strut to make a close 'O' to compensate these forces. Like I did here ( but with forces in opposite direction )by o_lampe - CoreXY Machines
If one axis is tight and binding, you often see shifted layers. (search 'skipped steps' too ) When the walls of the cube are vertical, but too small you can recalibrate the axis. Put the new found steps/mm in the startcode of your slicer ( M92 Y####) or overwrite the eeprom. (Send M92 Y#### and M500 directly from Pronterface or other terminal)by o_lampe - General
I can't recommend sandbox sand, it is often mixed with clay.by o_lampe - CoreXY Machines
...shameless selfpromotion Ok, my comment is obsolete, since the spammer got deleted.by o_lampe - Printing
Atmega has an onboard power selector circuit, which either uses USB power or the onboard 5V regulator. If it doesn't work, all sort of things can happen. You can try to inspect the Atmega for cold solder or missing parts around the power circuit or replace it with another board. Cutting off 5V in the USB cable also works, but keep the GND connection intact. Make sure, no one can replace the cableby o_lampe - RAMPS Electronics
Just saw a video about 'sphericons'. Maybe a nice alternative to the boring steel ball?by o_lampe - Look what I made!
How about calling it 'Cloverdrive'? I made two sketches and found, the crossed version has more than 360° wrap which might wear out the cable too fast. PS: The output-cable is drawn in wrong direction, it should look 'south' too Edit: just noticed, the numbering in the 1st. pic is wrong, too. I blame it on the heatby o_lampe - CoreXY Machines
Maybe your extruder is pinching too much and squeezes the filament oval? That's typical for hot settings_still not passing the throat.by o_lampe - Printing
Make sure the drivers are plugged in the right way. The 5V onboard regulator can get damaged.by o_lampe - RAMPS Electronics
Z-lift too fast and/or stepper current too low?by o_lampe - Printing
A rule of thumb is: printable radius = rod length x cos(20°) The 20° rule is based on the achieveable angles of rod ends. Magnetic ballstuds usually have a bigger angle, but the steppers have a hard time to maintain constant effector speed then.by o_lampe - Delta Machines
QuoteI like the idea of using the motor mount screws to also serve as axles for the steering pulleys. That would be a neat looking arrangement! Thanks! I agree the sideload issue is not important, although a cable driven system needs more tension than a belt. The cloverleaf arrangement might offer a better cable wrap ratio if done right and thereby reduces the required tension. Right now you geby o_lampe - CoreXY Machines
Looks like you are using steel core belts? They need bigger pulley diameters or they brake easily.by o_lampe - CoreXY Machines
You have to mark the filament above the extruder and measure how much filament goes in. It's recommended to mark 110mm and extrude 100mm.by o_lampe - Mechanics
Hi, there is a Wiki page that describes, how to identify the shunt-resistor value and calculate Vref. 2A steppers are a bit to much for the A4988 even when you reduce it to 80% of max. current.by o_lampe - Printing
I wonder if glide bearings would suit better? ( zero noise ) Maybe printed pulleys from Nylon.... There's sideload to the stepper bearings. Would it be possible to place the single pulley to the opposite side? Maybe add another pulley if need be? Or place one pulley on each of the motormount screws? PS: I claim the name 'Cloverleaf cable drive'by o_lampe - CoreXY Machines
At 20mm/s, how long will it take to draw one picture? I just figured a zigzag track with 30mm track-width would take ~1hour, not too badby o_lampe - CoreXY Machines
This was my approach to remove all slop in the mechanics until I changed to magnetic rodsby o_lampe - Printing
Could be a safety feature? The motors won't spin until the printer is homed ( G28 ) You can try Ramps_test to test the hardware and wiring, then move on to Marlin or whatever you want to use for printing. When you run it, better decouple the motors from the printer-axis'.by o_lampe - Reprappers
Interesting... It would make more sense, if the heatbrake would be tapered and the two screws were used to clamp it in the heatsink. But they use a simple cylinder/grubscrew design. Poor contact areaby o_lampe - General
QuoteBiggest problem I see is the variable spring force of the compensation idler. What kind of mechanism could solve this problem? Is there a way to do it without electronics? How about gravity? Just use a weight to tighten the string. It's called hang-printer for a reasonby o_lampe - Hangprinter