Getting your firmware dialed in is well worth the trouble. The printer I have working atm is a complete POS... I got it a new controller board and changed it up in a few ways, dialed in Marlin on an MKS Gen 1.4 and now I have a printer I can work with. PETG ABS both work although I can only do ABS in the summer too wet and cool on Vancouver Isl this time of year. PETG no problem... I thinby JustSumGuy - Printing
I just wanted to pop this in for future readers of this thread. USE EXTREME CAUTION WITH MAINS HEAT-BEDS! Things often go wrong and when they do its catastrophic. You can get a fire with a 12v system when things go too hot, takes a while. With a mains system, takes seconds.... Smoke detector..... Thermal fuse protection..... Dont leave it unattended..... Dont leave any flammable items near yby JustSumGuy - Safety & Best Practices
If you want to keep going with that board I would get an external mosfet with more power capacity. Once it starts to fry its likely to be susceptible to burning again and take the whole board with it.... something like this one:by JustSumGuy - Duet
An idea just flashed into my head here..... What about making up a nylon base that is held onto the print bed via some mechanical system, clips maybe. This could be a marketed that can be cut down to bed size if needed, perhaps 1mm thick precision piece.... This would be cut back after printing on it.....by JustSumGuy - Printing
I found that PETG requires a completely different way of approach for the first layer. With ABS you squish it in, that's for sure, you also squish PLA but a bit less than ABS... With PETG, almost NONE, LIKE NO SQUISH. I print on PEI sheet and I use a fairly hot first layer and have the tip high enough to just lay it on the bed. My first layer temp is hot something like 240c if I remember rightby JustSumGuy - Printing
I have no pics and may not be able to get any for a few days, I can say I dont feel the cracks tho.... feels smooth, I sanded the surface a while back due to some scratches from hasty removal the cracks look like when treated glass gets broken..... Likley what oLamp said tho, I did not heat the bed b4 install....by JustSumGuy - Printing
I have a 2mm thick PEI sheet on my printer, after a few dozen prints it developed cracks and now after a few hundred prints they are everywhere, no effect on printing tho....by JustSumGuy - Printing
Quotedc42 These NPN NO sensors normally have open-collector outputs, meaning they connect the output to ground when triggered and leave it in effect open circuit when not triggered. The complication is that if the ground wire to the sensor becomes disconnected, then the sensor supply voltage will get fed to the output pin via a diode and an unknown amount of resistance internal to the sensor. Thaby JustSumGuy - Duet
Quoteo_lampe There are many vendors who claim their probes would work at 5V, I hope you have a real one... With the 5V version you wouldn't need the low_drop shottky diode. And you have to put I1 ( capitol i1 ) in the config line of the z-probe, when it's a NPN NO type. Wouldn't the signal output be 5v and the logic of the Duet being 3.3v would I need a drop resistor across signal to gnd? Can Iby JustSumGuy - Duet
hmm, ok, perhaps you should look at upping the driver vref on your extruder.... DD has outlined pretty much all the stuff, tho I am still drawn back to the pic on your first post that shows filament being affected by heat up in the heat brake.....by JustSumGuy - Printing
So I have this LJ12A3-4-Z/BX-5V inductive M12 sensor I intended to use on the Duet Wifi for a Z/Bed sensor... Thing is all the NPN inductive sensor setups I have found are for the 6v-30v version not the 5v Is there anything I need to knowby JustSumGuy - Duet
Are you sure you have that right? it should be blowing air ONTO the heat sink not away. If that fan was supplied by E3d and its orig as supplied I would be confident in it being over 4 cfm likely over 5... Some of the clone v6 hotends are supplied with too small of fans... From the pics btw that is how I believe you have it mounted... blowing onto... all fans I have seen blow towards the labeby JustSumGuy - Printing
Sorry I took a closer look at your picture in your first post, somehow you must be getting heat migration up into your heat brake. I ask this just to be clear, you stated that your heat brake fan is on at 100% but in most configurations there is no adjusting that... Its just on and connected directly to 12v (or24v if that's your setup) So just encase we are misunderstanding when you say 1by JustSumGuy - Printing
I would suggest you have a bad or misaligned heat brake. There are several types of these heads, all metal heat brake, the type with the small ptfe tube in it, and the type that has the feed tube to all the way down thru the heat brake to the nozzle. With PLA you can use the PTFE types, but with higher temp filaments like PETG or ABS you should use the all metal setup. Extraction should not exby JustSumGuy - Printing
Maybe try PETG instead of PLA. Once you work out the settings and dial it in, you are likely to never look at PLA again...... It can still warp but the amount is far less, layer adhesion is super strong, can print directly to PEI.by JustSumGuy - General
I found something that did the job. I used Meshmixer to do a plane cut then used the sculpt tool and found under brushes a 'robustSmooth' brush that I could tune to disrupt the smooth surface perfectly for what I needed.by JustSumGuy - General
Hi, I am looking for a way to do this useing free software pls I am creating a 'tail' to be used on a costume. I have the full tail that I pulled from another model but I am scaling it up and cutting it in half. This is so that the 'tail' is more manageable and fits the scale of the costume rather than the orig model. The orig is the Agisis face hugger by the way.... Anyhow, I want to modby JustSumGuy - General
Some of the links in the OP 404, specifically the DC42 -> Github links....by JustSumGuy - Duet
Quoterich1812 I found out why the extruder making the click click noise. It is at the entry point of the filament to the hotted barrel, the filament is not able to enter the talon tube in the barrel, so it got stuck, it missed by 0.2 mm or so. Is the Teflon absolute necessary? I had to read this a few times to see what you were after, I am going to assume a few things tho. You likely have an Eby JustSumGuy - Printing
Sadly they do not ship to Canadaby JustSumGuy - Safety & Best Practices
QuoteSrek I bought these in theory those would begin to break down at any temp higher than 77c have you seen any problems? do you print at ABS temps?by JustSumGuy - Safety & Best Practices
QuoteSrek On my old machine i use a 0.8mm PEI coated fibersheet attached to the heatbed with clamps. On my new machine i put PEI foil on a magnetic sheet that already had a heat resistant adhesive. On the printbed i have the same magnetic sheet. This is an ideal combination for me since the magnetism prevents any buckling but allows for stretching. The magnetic sheets are acting as heat spreadersby JustSumGuy - Safety & Best Practices
I never use SD so its always disabled on my builds... Hmm your heating failed issue, have you run a PID tune yet? I love this stuff too lolby JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Not sure on this one, but the error leads me to think that the text that is displayed on the LCD is larger than the LCD is capable of displaying. I very much doubt its what your thinking tho, as I can see in the boards.h file your board is supported on 1.1.8 #define BOARD_MELZI_CREALITY 89 // Melzi Creality3D board (for CR-10 etc) Two guesses: first there is a custom field that you can pby JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
What are those lines set to? It seems to be saying that you have setup the x/y axis to be operating outside the size of the bed. what size is your bed, what size does Marlin think your bed is.. how far is Marlin allowed to move x and y axis...by JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
I find it doubtful that the MKS Base and MKS Gen would have the same pins configuration. You should start with a bare firmware and set it up from scratch.by JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Ok you have basic A4988 step sticks on there so setting the vRef should be easy. Take a look at this: Thats pretty detailed and should have everything you need. there are also videos on the subject, here is one: All that is happening from what I can see and others seem to agree above, the power put to the stepper motors is too low and they are loosing position because of it. If you turn tby JustSumGuy - Printing
Solved TQVM!! Software Information Firmware Name: RepRapFirmware for Duet WiFi Firmware Electronics: Duet WiFi 1.0 Firmware Version: 1.20 (2017-12-23) WiFi Server Version: 1.20 Web Interface Version: 1.20by JustSumGuy - Duet
@o_lamp - Thanx that helps me a fair bit @DC42 - Thanx I will do that asap!by JustSumGuy - Duet
shoot us a pic of the controller, maybe someone will recognize it and we can offer more info.by JustSumGuy - Printing