First try, Reptier doesn't have a default setting for Radds with full graphics interface :-) So I have choosen the RADDS LCD , this is the result movie First result :-)by amigob - Developers
What the guys from Radds did is put JP6 ( 2x4 ) and JP15 ( 2x1 ) together on the board and then you get the 2x5 external SD connector. You can see on the layout that the external SD connector has two times a 1 pin ( square ). The normal flat cable connectors can only be used over the full length of the connector. So I treat it as a 2x5.by amigob - Developers
I connected in the last schematic CS0 to the SD_CSEL so I agree with you there :-) I don't know what you mean by full schematic but the only one missing now is the schematics of the Control board..I found that one on ebay. it seems that the converter is ok like this?by amigob - Developers
Did you contact Thingivers, can they do a take down for all of the items from Thingivers? But then the question in my heat pops up: Is this so bad? He makes the products available for a very big group of people that don't own a 3D printer !!!! With that in my mind I don't know how I would react. I am building my first 3D printer and didn't post anything yet on Thingivers.by amigob - General
Fixed changes Still need to test the connections made. The PCB a little smaller then the connect so that it can be 2 converters in 5x5 cm PCB, cheap costs ~10 dollars for 10 PCB's I got all the parts for my P3steel in so, I have to choose build, design, build , etc :-)by amigob - Developers
PIN 1 and 2 from J4 don't need to be use, in the radds design J4 exists of 2 connectors 1 and 2 is one connector an 3 to 10 is another connector ( SD ) , but they are put together on the radds layout. - So the SD_CSEL was wrong, but should it be connected to CS0 or CS1 ? - I think you are wright with the SD DET to CD.by amigob - Developers
This I found from some one that reverse engineered the connectors on the DISPLAY For the RADDS I used this Radds layoutby amigob - Developers
I am making a small PCB that plugs in to the back of the LCD (12864 controller ), This PCB will convert the connection to the 10 and 12 pins of the RADDS Full Graphics Smart Controller to RADDS Until now I am still on my own. But I decided to try the connections via a breadboard :-) Because a few connections are not that obvious.by amigob - Controllers
Hi all I am building my first 3D printer with a Due and RADDS. So I go the electronics in to day and had already a small disappointment. The RAMPS displays don't fit on the RADDS. So I already start to make a converted that can be plugged in on the back of the Display controller and then with an 12 and 10 wire ribbon cable to the RADDS. Problem fixed :-) I hope to get the PCB first time riby amigob - Developers
So your frame has also the 2 mountings for bowden extruders steppermotors in the 2 vertical pillars ? If that is the case then they should be more clear in there website, because I payed a lot more then what they are asking.by amigob - Prusa i3 and variants
> And I would measure the current draw Sorry, but how many people do you think have the ability to measure 10A+ current ?by amigob - Printing
Where do you get that the P3steel from orballo a 2.5 frame is. The pictures shown on there web site is not a 2.5 DXL. This is a 2,5 DXL :by amigob - Prusa i3 and variants
why not the cheaper round nema14. 2 versions 14HR08-0654S 12 Ncm 100gram 14HR05-0504S 7 Ncm 50gram also not cheap. I am design a dual ( wade's ) extruder with this total width 64mm ( need also new x carrier ) It would be nice if it works with the smaller one. But the bigger one fits.by amigob - General
> If you glue the heater directly to it (glass plate) you can expect hot and cold spots. Thanks didn't realize this. I will put some thin aluminum sheets in between to solve this ( multiple sheets with small gabs in between the sheets ).by amigob - Developers
> When the bed plate heats to ABS print temperature it expands about 0.7 mm This is why I decided to eliminate the aluminum plate all together. And directly glue the mounting bolts to a Borosilicate glass plate. This glass expands about 3 to 4 times less then aluminum. The heater will be sticked directly to the glass plate. I didn't build this yet but all the parts are on the way. ( this wby amigob - Developers
Just ordered a original one. Why, because it is my first printer and the hot end just needs to work, so that all the other thinks that are not standard, can be tested.by amigob - General
Thanks, one problem less for me, I would have switched the cables.by amigob - Elektrik & Elektronik
My German writing is not good ( German reading is Ok ) , So answer in English. You know that the DRV8825 and RAPS128 have different output pin arrangement to the Stepper motors ?by amigob - Elektrik & Elektronik
Why not a 220V AC heater with a SSR, low current not a lot of heating of the SSR. Also available on aliexpress.by amigob - General
Hi all, I want to start building my first 3D printer. After looking in a lot of places on the internet I couldn't buy a kit that was close enough to what I want to make. So I decide to buy the parts separately and put it together myself. I am not afraid for metal, plastic, wood works. ( Build big model aircraft ) I design my own electronic and software. ( not for the 3D printer, yet :-) ) Soby amigob - Prusa i3 and variants