Here another person that is printing on boro and I like it a lot. A use always 3Dlac ( kind of hair spray but the special for 3D printing ) It sticks extremely well. For ABS, first layer I set the bed to 110c and then 105, when the bed cools down, lower then 25, almost always the object pops of. I tried sometimes to remove it early with no success. There is a big drawback with every glassby amigob - Reprappers
I mounted a 3mm bold in the blocks that are glued to the glass plate. Two self-locking nuts ( I whore then down with a tap ) one above the carrier and one below. It is easy to adjust because you can also use tension on the nut for the last 10Um To level the bed ( orthogonal to Z ) in X I just used a big square ( don't know how it is really called in English ) then get the X axes parallel to tby amigob - Printing
> dual Z axis motors suck. I feel some frustration here, and sorry I disagree. My bed is fixed. So my bed is the reference, and I don't need to readjust it on my P3steel , I measured it after I vigorously had to remove an printed object. no difference. > X axis every couple weeks happens when you are printing So it mist a step that is 0.5mm divided by 200 is a whopping 2.5um, that wilby amigob - Printing
I think you don't understand what I want to correct. It is no replacement for badly setup Prusa's or ABL You still have to setup your system Bed to Z orthogonal. Because we use 2 steppers for Z sometimes the sync is lost . I have to redo the Z axes ones in two weeks, for instance if I press the reset button on a Z move. Because I use 2 drivers I can restore this using the height sensor. Normaby amigob - Printing
I will solve this miss alignment later on in Repetier, maybe I really need to start my own fork. I will just use the mini infrared height sensor, at the start of a print to align the bed with the X axes. With some smart mathematics and doing 2 prob's one left and one right should do the job. To do the smart mathematics you need to know the distances of the two screw leads , and the distancesby amigob - Printing
for this thin wall stuff you need the enclosure I will try one at 280c ( now 260 ) but the object is cooling down to quicklyby amigob - Developers
it is not 160000 put 16000 But I have Radds and raps128's but for Z I use 8 or 16 microsteps that is already to mutchby amigob - Printing
what type of microcontroler board are you using ? for the faster micro controllers you have these settings Delay stepper high signal Delay stepper direction signalby amigob - Printing
V2 cooler with separate filament cooler dual coooler it only meeds some small extensions to get the head under the nozzleby amigob - Developers
I switched off the temperature thing, Takes way to long :-) Cooling down was the bottle neck.by amigob - Developers
with ooze prevention it doesn't do the overlapping skirt, strange, the skirt was same height as the cat . but it was already breaking apart the last 25%by amigob - Developers
I use 128 micro stepping for X and Y ( Raps128 ) I thought the same, subtract the 320, we where both wrong , I needed to add it :-) There is one thing that I really have problems with and that is the skirt, both filaments are printed at the same place so that it sticks way to good to the bed I need it to get the filament in the nozzle. but I will change that after the IR sensor is working. Iby amigob - Developers
went back to Repetier firmware setting ( not going to look back. maybe it was me :-) ) so in steps Repetier needs that Y = 0.5 mm = 320 steps X = 0.1 mm = 64 steps and now thinking about the direction plus or minusby amigob - Developers
And that didn't work some how the Z was 2 mm shifted ?????by amigob - Developers
to late just found out the hard way I have now only slicer offsets :-) lets seeby amigob - Developers
> use the "Object informations" dialog (click the cog icon in the list of parts) to assign both parts to the same object group. that helps :-) > Repetier host there are bugs so you can't rely on the colour coding to tell which plastic is going to be used at any point that helps, I start ignoring the preview because , the colors are also shifted by extruder offset. Thanks,by amigob - Developers
increasing the Z level of the top block with 0.1 um solved the problem? Looking at the slices everything looks ok, no missing layer ?by amigob - Developers
tried to print these 2 small blocks on top of each other and that seems to be to difficult for me slic3r has already problems with this the first layer is placed beside the object. if I switch the extruder assignment then it looks different again. I tried loading separate objects ( 2 blocks ) where both need to be set to Z height 0 And loading 1 object , splitting them and again both objectsby amigob - Developers
There is a draw back, you can't remove it, I am thinking about that one. I had my doubts if the PLA would hold, because it is directly beside the heater and aluminum plate. But I don't see any problem, I print better at high speed then a low speed with ABS. As long as the object is big enough :-)by amigob - Developers
Borosilicate glass sprayed black on the back on the back, then a 1.5 mm thin plate aluminum and then the heater. I glued ( epoxy ) 3 PLA blocks to the glass plate.by amigob - Developers
First print with second extruder The black extruder is printing yellow and the yellow extruder is printing black :-) Don't have to change anything to the Z. Now first a rough calibration of the nozzle X/y position. I want to print 2 squares ( 2 colors ) on top of each other, and the top one 4 mm smaller So that I can measure the offset with the caliper, correct the difference. And then useby amigob - Developers
I am using the Repetier firmware and host and there is no "configuration_adv.h" file in the firmware, The advantage of Repetier firmware is that it has a online configure tool. So I have never touched the "Configuration.h" file. The only thing I do is load the current Repetier configuration.h file in the online configure tool change what I want to change and download it, so that I can build itby amigob - Printing
:-) that is not switching it off, that is stopping a service.by amigob - General
> Well I've had no problems with using it to calibrate and test a printer or run a short print but disable windows update service just re-enable it occasionally. You can't disable windows 10 update, A good Idea from MS. :-(by amigob - General
yesterday I printed the cold end cooler with 50% flow ( by accident ) A layers and perimeters are there but not connected :-) So today a new try and when cooler is finished I can start using the second extruder. I got the filament already in :-)by amigob - Developers
> If your main power supply is 12V then add this to the power input of the Arduino and all works as expected as now the Arduino supplies a stable 5V. I don't have a Ramps, but I read that with original Arduino mega's this works, but there are mega clones that use 5V regulators that can't handle the 12V to 5V drop and delivering power to both the Arduino Mega's and the Display, they just getby amigob - Printing
any transistor with a hfe > 100 will do.by amigob - General
If you want to move a little bit fast and have good acceleration, again you need to increase the current. That is why my due+RADDS has now two drivers for the Z axes, It almost doubled the speed. And I use RAPS128 that real can give 2A ( with the two driver I reduced it to 1.5A )by amigob - Printing
Thanks, sounds logical, was thinking way to difficult :-)by amigob - Printing
I read in a number of threads that serial works better then parallel. ( I know that parallel doesn't work as good as two Z drivers, I didn't test serial ) Who is right?? and why.by amigob - Printing