I think you need to look in Germany, and the name I found for these plates are Gussplatten or Alu Gussplatten feingefrästby amigob - Developers
> check also your speed and accelaration settings, they maybe to high. from your travel moves, because the printing moves seem fine.by amigob - Printing
2.0 volt per lipo cell will damage the lipo. In the RC world we, under power, are not going lower then 3.0V to 3.2V ( 3.2 is the save value for a lipo ) And if you really want to see what modern electronics can do, look at RC, I have a MIG29 3.5 kg that pulls 220A out of a 6 cell lipo. And we don't call this crazy. That are the F5B guys that pull over 300A.by amigob - Experimental and Hobby
This is with a nema 14 pancake 7Ncm with a 1:4.3 reduction I will not advise this setup, because is skips steps. But with the nema 15 12nm pancake is works perfectby amigob - General
The PLA, I thought that I need to replace them when starting to print ABS, But it is now test to 130c , and no problem at allby amigob - Reprappers
but there is also no direct contact between the heater and the aluminum. Yes you loose energy, but it seems to be no problem, without the insulator it already heads up pretty quick, ( I uses 200w , 220Vfor 200x200mm ) I have by the way a infrared sensor on the printer head and that sensor I use for pre heating so that the glass really reaches the designated temperature. You can read about thatby amigob - Reprappers
reading the other thread , glueing is not that smart. Use the double sided tap because it also creates a flexible connection, I have no insulator underneath the heater, yet, and it takes 7min to 90cby amigob - Reprappers
Haven't made pictures when I made this I ordered a Boro glass on aliexpress with the size of 220x220mm Sprayed it with exhaust black, and backed it in the oven Printed mounting blocks from PLA. Without sticking the heater on it I put every thing together leveled a little bit. and then uses epoxy glue to glue the mounting blocks to paint on the boro glass after that I used carpet dubble sided tby amigob - Reprappers
i uses boro glass and 1.5 mm head spreader with silicon heater. it works very well. But be care full aluminum will expand 2 times of the boro glass. I used 10x10cm squares and used dubble side tape to stick these squares to the glass with 1mm spacing This is to avoid deformation of the glass when the alluminium is expanding more then the boro glass No fir image but measured heat map and on aby amigob - Reprappers
Try putting the titan in a dual setup and see what is left from you build size. the dual wade I have has stil the 20x20 on my P3steel 2.5 my hot end's ( v6 ) are side by side, against each other.by amigob - Reprappers
I know that with the advised nema 17 4.0kg stepper motor it is more have then a wades with a nema 14 round stepper motor ( 1.2kg ) that I am using now. dual wades extruder I am still trying to design a better hotend holder, but for the rest it works really well.by amigob - Reprappers
by amigob - Repetier
If this a a genuine or a good copy of the e3D V6 then you need a PTFE tube in side of the cold end ( aluminum cooling part ) middle one Did you have that ?by amigob - Printing
I am running 17HS19-2004S1 stepper motors with the raps128 drivers and they never failed me. and I am running them on ~1.5A on 12v ( was planning to go to 24V but I don't see it necessary any more) Here on of my first prints Fast an another test printing a gear gear printingby amigob - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
the effect does mater on the object, as I reaf it it will only slow down when the printing time gets below the thresholdby amigob - Slic3r
How much mA does the motor need, if there is no load on the motor that would be very low. This is what I found on reprap > the recommended "dummy" 5V load of a 10 ohm 10W power resistor (i.e. 500ma). this seems not enough, but workable. See here I have a 1.5A dummy load, and still if I put both my extruders on, I hear the fans slow down ( not much )by amigob - General
First question should be. Do you have a load on the 5V output. If not, start doing that. look on the internet how big the resistor need to be.by amigob - General
> Switching to Linux isn't going to save you any headaches either. Linux requires more customization just before it becomes secure By default Ubuntu is setup correctly to have safely access to the internet, nor will it automatically update and reboot the system when it wants, out of the box, so I don't agree with this statement. Are you running any Linux distributions your self ? Completelyby amigob - General
windows 10 also not suitable for TV weather forecast. look here Microsoft really should change this. you are doing a full screen presentation and Microsoft finds it a good idea to start annoying them with the update. I am going to switch to Linux, to run the Repetier server. Then you can connect the Repetier host on a windows system to the server And the server runs the printing process tby amigob - General
look at this schematic, specially left top corner called mega connector. that is the interface between the Arduino and the Ramps. All most all these pin's need to be connected to the PC to make it work. If you what to directly connect a ramps to a PC, then you need to connect all these digital and analog connections to the PC. In principle you can't directly connect the digital and analog pinby amigob - Reprappers
good to hear, if you don't have enough 17PM-K018-G22ST and go for a prusa printer then the SHINANO stepper is enough for the wade's extruder the 1 in 5 reduction makes that more then strong enough.by amigob - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Example script didn't work because be for the while, the file is not opened but this does the job #!/usr/bin/perl -i use strict; use warnings; my $temp = 95; #only needed for windows $^I = '.bak'; # Go through the input file, line by line while ( <> ) { # for the first line add the M703 if ($. == 1) { printf "M703 S%4.0f\n", $temp } # Print the existing line to the oby amigob - Slic3r
try reducing feed rate and acceleration #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,500} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 5, 25} // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {3000,3000,100,10000}by amigob - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
so made the first prints with the M703, had some small problems finding the correct way of injecting M703 Add it to the repertier start code, didn't always work ( still don't know why ), it is also not really the correct location because I need to change printer settings when I change filament type. Then I moved it to the start code of slic3r, that didn't work because I ended up with 2 blobsby amigob - Developers
dmould I didn't have time yesterday to try it. But does this also work when I have a dual extruder setup where I don't always use both extruders? Because you can have 2 different temperatures for the extruders. The script suggestion of frankvdh will have no problem with that because the command will be just put in front of the output of slic3r.by amigob - Slic3r
I use Repetier for firmware not marlin but in the repetier firmware I need to configure the second extruder, even switch it on, because the firmware needs to start controlling the second extruder. You probably also need to check which digital out is switching the heater, which digital in is used for the sensor, which pins are used for the stepper driver, some are by default correct. So I expectby amigob - Reprappers
I made a preheating functionality, Measured at the center of the bed, that I need to start with a M703 Sxxx ( xxx is temperature ) I what to automatically add this at the real beginning of the gcode file. When I now add it to the start gcode then it will be done after the extruders are heated up. that means that I end up with 2 blobs of filament in the middle of my print bed ( dual extruder ).by amigob - Slic3r