> Threaded rod is 100% wrong for this application So this one will not produce good prints, it uses 5mm threaded rods.by amigob - Printing
Found on ebay, that the heater it self will never get above 150c , because of the integrated thermostat. And I Russan guy that measured it .by amigob - Reprappers
The heater I mentioned has its own thermostat, to not overhead, I only cant find when it is switching off. But if the thermostat has a to high value ( I expect it is lower then 150c ) I will just replace it with a 150c, or lower ( need some experimenting).by amigob - Reprappers
Connecting it to the RADDS with an SSR and a thermistor,should not be the problem, but I can't find any control config for an enclosure heater in Repertier.by amigob - Reprappers
>Without a fan the heat is going to accumulate at the top of the enclosure. Natural Convection of the heat, most likely will work, if I place the radiators low, at 25% of the total height. Advantage is that I will not have rapid temperature changes, yes it will take some time to heat up, but the heatbed with 400W is already not fast. I have to remove the M104's Gcode to avoid oozing extrudeby amigob - Reprappers
The way it is going now I aspect to many be printing ABS also. Temperature inside is not high enough yet 33c beside the bed, 45 degrees a few centimeters above the bed. Will add 2 of these with thermostat control, no fan just natural airflow. I made the enclosure so, that I can have the filament inside and on top Simple filament holders for on top, like this on top. And I will design 2by amigob - Reprappers
Hi At this moment I am making a simple heat chamber but I was asking my self if I should but the filament holder instide or outside the heat chamber. When I but it inside it will automatic gets a little bit backed when I print. It will take al little bit longer to head the chamber. Are there any other negative/positive things by putting the filament in side the heat chamber.by amigob - Reprappers
I only have one question about the heat chamber, is it a problem if the filament rolls are in the heat chamber.by amigob - Developers
Mhh stuck to good, kapton brook in the middle of the object. But object didn't warp, although that I don't have a enclosure, yetby amigob - Developers
I have no adhesion of esun ABS to the kapton sheet, cleaning it with acetone did change it squeezing it on also not. When I spray some 3dlac on it it works, still need to see how good :-) I thought that ABS would stick directly to a kapton sheet ?by amigob - Developers
tomorrow testing. leveling was very easy, just uses the inbus bolts on the top. I will also changes Repetier that it will do a check, if the bed is still level and if not that it will stop the print.by amigob - Developers
you probably need to invert( configuration setting ) your end stop.by amigob - Prusa i3 and variants
no rotation at all, I will print some higher ones, and then it is very ridge. I only have a big setback the slider of the linear baring when over the tyrap and all the bearings went over the floorby amigob - Developers
> The first thing that will happen is the screws will tilt as the bearings rotate. Don't agree the connection between the M6 bolt and the 8MM plate is very rigid and the bolt can't move. Lets see. :-) The blind bracket hols are drilled and tapped. now I need to drill the big M6 hols, Need to get enough confident, that they are in the correct place :-)by amigob - Developers
That is why I use Big M6 Bolts and 8mm aluminum plate, I can go to M8 if needed. But I expect it is not needed the length of the levers is not big.by amigob - Developers
I have a silicon heater 20 by 20 cm that will go directly on the bed. That is why I ( my friend ) milled the beltclamp bracket that completely spans over the heater. So that I can mount the beldclamp in the ~ middle of the bed, if I would mount it at one or the other end, it would restrict the movement drastically. In this way I don't have to do any modifications to the rest of the p3steel. Comby amigob - Developers
I have draw it in Designspark, what is the best way to put it online. Here a picture of the drawing. in the middle is the bracket to mount the belt attachment. This bracket will be completely tightened on the left and on the right not. This is because the bracket will not have the same temperature as the heat-bed. On the top side is the slider where the linear baring will be attached. I willby amigob - Developers
After a chunk of glass came with an object that I printed in my glass bed. I decided to make a printbed from aluminum. Like the design from the_digital_dentist. Had the linear bearing already more then 15 years. Ordered the milled cast aluminum in Germany. An a friend of my milled the bed to side, and milled the bracket for the mounting of the belt attachment. I use the standard guide rodsby amigob - Developers
I use a very cheap SSR for that. 400W 220V AC silicon heaterby amigob - Reprappers
via it seems to be the FEB2016 versionby amigob - Reprappers
If you like the pull drawing of Sketchup, look at DesignSpark. It is free and works almost the same as Sketchup. Don't use Sketchup it will works for simple thinks but if you go for more complex things you will get frustrated very quickly. Sketchup can easily make objects that are not really solid, and the slicers don't like that.by amigob - 3D Design tools
here running now the RADDS with nonGenuine Arduino Due with RAPS128's ( not for the extruders, doesn't make any sense to me ) you don't need that much knowlege about electronics and software. putting Repetier on is simple, watch how you put the drivers in. The nonGenuine Arduino Due can have one small problem, a far as I know and that is the temperature measurements that are not correct. Thatby amigob - Reprappers
If I print PLA on blue tape, without using the bed heater, it will warp, if I print a big surfaces. Dentist you are probably forgetting that you are printing in a closed box, not everybody has that.by amigob - Reprappers
> but I would mount 2-3mm aluminium over it, and make sure the ALU is earthed. This is important the thickness of the resist on top of the copper structures can be less then 13um. With a scratch it is possible that an ark can form to the aluminum on top. And make sure that a cable never flexes at a solder joint, it will break over time. Mount the cable to fixed point so that the cable fleby amigob - General
That is a very healthy and good reaction. I use silicon 220 Volt heater, but to my opinion is a lot ore save than this. The paint is not that thick and a scratch can open up the 220V. silicon heaters are around the same price.by amigob - General
You interpreted the picture correctly :-) I didn't want to loss the curves, they fit an rubber and metal object. But some how design spark didn't like a full surface model to be filled, when I added a cube covering have of the model. it started to fill it without any problem. removed the cube again and did a circular drag. and then i was fixed. little bit strange.by amigob - 3D Design tools
Hi all I have drawn an object that has no fill, and now I want to fill it. What ever I do I cant get it filled. I also try to fill a combined cylinder and a cube. Also no success. it are 2 cons and I need to have it filled in between. anybody that knows how to do that?by amigob - 3D Design tools
There is one thing you really should take care of and that is that if the the wire gets cut or the control board has no power, the fet's need to switch off. Another thing you selected a mos fet with a 4.5V on voltage, realist that you only have 3.3V at the output ( on resistance is very high with 3.3 volt, high power dissipation ). You can try without opto coupler but I think you really needby amigob - Controllers
just put 3 of them parallel with the drain on a large peace of the copper on the PCB and done. No active cooling needed. Also you don't have to worry to much about the 10A per MOS fet pin.by amigob - Controllers
> and its also on the opposite side from the cooling fan did you already try printing multiple cubes, I get this problem, when the object stays to warm, so add multiple cubes will give the previous layer to cool downby amigob - Printing