I've added stepper dampers and they did make quite a bit of difference to the noise. No evidence of steppers running hot (X axis does get to about 50C) I've just received my TMC2208 drivers and the next step is to install those with an MKS Gen L and TFT32 LCD. Another mod is to add a 5V DC-DC converter to run the Raspberry Pi for Octoprint. I have a supercapacitor based UPS for the Pi that will sby geoffs - General
Turns out that the site I tried to buy the printer through, was not the official site. Ended up buying the Ender 5 from Creality's online store with no issues. About 6 weeks worth of printing on it now and so far, I'm happy with the purchase. The only mods I've done to date are to replace the plastic extrude with metal parts, replace the crappy bowden fittings and printing on 3mm glass. Future mby geoffs - General
Well looks like I WONT be getting this printer. After the order was placed and my credit card debited, I was advised that there was a $A60 remote delivery charge to be paid before shipping. I understand the need for this fee in some cases (I'm in the statest capital city so not sure how that's remote) What I object to was the fact the money was taken from my card before I was advised of this fee.by geoffs - General
After looking at the Ender 3 Pro, I ended up ordering a Creality Ender 5 - it had free shipping Delivery is supposed to be about 3 weeks so time to catch up on the forum and brush up on my 3D printing knowledge. I do have an Ord Hadron I've have for 6 years or so but a recent move to a new place has seen it languish in a cupboard. it needs a new ramps board and the hotend needs fixing/replaciby geoffs - General
If I print at a higher speed, then the slope on the diagonal line does change. This would seem (to me) to say that whatever causes it, happens at a regular interval i.e. clock speed rather than motor speed. Does that make sense?by geoffs - Printing
Well installed a new stepper motor (driver had already been replaced) and problem* still occurs. *by geoffs - Printing
QuoteJamesK Oh well, another fine theory out the window. New suggestions are never a waste, I appreciate them. Found the pins and crimps so will get that new stepper in this evening. Where possible, I use Molex Microfit 3.0 inline connectors as they are small, reliable and can handle 5A per pin. By making everything plug-able, it makes disassembly a lot less painful.by geoffs - Printing
Steppers are A4988. Increasing current just caused faster clicking, decreasing was the only way to stop the clicking. Plan to try a new stepper but that means crimping up some Molex connectors and I can't find them at the moment, put away somewhere safe no doubt.by geoffs - Printing
A couple of days ago, the extruder motor was clicking so I dropped the current setting until the clicking stopped. As I wasn't getting great print quality and the extruder had never clicked before, I changed the stepper driver and made the same adjustment i.e. dropped current until clicking stopped.by geoffs - Printing
Dalek failed, my fault, so tried printing something else (this boat). After printing the first couple of layers and then the fill, temperature was fluctuating and I started getting 'cold extrude prevented' Not sure if the problem is related. Power supply is 12V30A so should be able to keep the hotend, hot. I did a couple of PID autotunes earlier today so pretty sure that's OK Perhaps my crappy Gby geoffs - Printing
Taking photos of prints showing enough detail to be useful is difficult. The blue one (roll is 2 years old) failed at any temperature higher than (about) 190 so the bottom 2/3 is a mess, no detail visible. The red one (2 years old but only just opened) printed more successfully. The yellow one is a brand new roll (Verbatim) and shows no difference in print quality in the entire temperature rangby geoffs - Printing
I have a spare gear so I can swap that over, spare motor will take a little longer. I've already swapped out the stepper driver. Also, I've just started printing a Dalek so I'll wait until that finishes.by geoffs - Printing
Using Marlin/slic3r/pronterface, any logging options there? The temperature graph in pronterface shows extruder temperature doesn't vary a great deal, 1 or 2 degrees, and not in any regular pattern. Also the gcode drops the temperature by 3 degrees, every 30 layers.by geoffs - Printing
QuoteVDX ... this sort of paterns could be caused by regular speed variaton/fluctuation of the extruder-motor or by a not concentric hobbed bolt ... Great, something I can check. I did replace part of the extruder today ( spring loaded bearing that presses the filament against the Mk7 gear seemed a bit loose) so I'm just running off another print to see if this made any difference.by geoffs - Printing
It's a single thickness wall, there wouldn't be any infill (would there?) FYI, gcode for this print is here. Dropbox link to gcodeby geoffs - Printing
It sounds like you have the wrong thermistor selected in Configuration.h More details of your hotend/printer might help.by geoffs - General
I have a strange pattern on my tall prints that I can't track down a cause for. I've been printing these to calibrate the temperature for the various rols of PLA I have. Each of the thin wall towers has a regular, spiral marking on them. At suggestions from #reprap on IRC, I've adjusted speed and acceleration to no affect. The angle of the line did seem to change with increased speed. It happenby geoffs - Printing
I'm trying to add bed lights to my Ord Hadron printer using a Reprapdiscounts fan extender (http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/Reprap_Ramps1.4_RRD_Fan_Extender). A test program blinks the lights as expected so I moved on to try using M42 to control them while printing. The problem is that if I issue an M42 command, say 'M42 P11 S255' I lose communications with the printer and have to issue aby geoffs - Firmware - Marlin
I realise it's been a while but any updates to your build? My OrdHadron has been sitting unused for over a year and I really should get it going again (need to print parts for my X-Carve) Currently has both Z motors connected in series but I plan to use the second extruder controller and slave the Z motors together. Trying to remember how to configure marlin ... Geoffby geoffs - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Not sure if it's of any help but I had a similar problem with the Z axis that was fixed by connecting the motors in series instead of parallel. My printer now moves around as it should, I just need to get the extruder to behave itself...by geoffs - RAMPS Electronics
Here's my Ord Hadron, just finished after many, many delays - none the fault of the machine. Ramps 1.4 controller wuth LCD graphics. Extruder is the supplied QU-BD with modifications by bdring. Cable management is a metal shower hose. I found this on the reprapdiscount forum and got the files from Thingiverse - madsen The first print was a 20mm calibration cube which printed perfectly - but thiby geoffs - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I've been catching up on the Berrybot, it's a nice piece of work. Starting on a new delta build based on Makerslide (probably Wolfstock) but I intend to borrow as many of Werners ideas as I can :-) Perhaps I should CNC my mill as a first step ...by geoffs - General
Love the 3DR! I'm looking to build a delta (I have an Ord Hadron) but I want to use makerslide to do this. Has anyone else build a variant of the 3DR using makerslide? I'm looking at the necessary mods to the CAD files but if someone has already done all the hard work ... Regards Geoffby geoffs - Delta Machines
In the process of learning all I can about 3d printing before I receive my printer (Ordbot Hadron) Any other 3D owners in Tassie?by geoffs - Australia, Perth RepRap User Group