So far it looks like I solved the problem! I found a WIn7 PC and connected the printer and it automatically installed a driver. And the communication worked perfectly! So I noticed that the driver on the Win7 machine is one version older than the one installed on the Win8.1 machine. I also installed the old version of the driver on the new PC and voilà, everything works so far.by GoingForGold - General
Thanks for your suggestions. Yes, I have the Arduino IDE, but when I tell Windows to install a driver found inside the Arduino folder, it tells me that it doesn't find any. The only working driver is the one downloaded from the manufacturers website. I found the ping-pong setting you were talking about, however it makes matters worse. The printer doesn't even start anymore. I take this as anotby GoingForGold - General
In my understanding, I just need the MCP2200 driver which emulates the serial port. Arduino is using FTDI chips, so I don't think they use the same drivers?by GoingForGold - General
Hi! I'm using a Gen7 1.5 with Teacup and Repetier Host. Everything worked perfectly on my Win7 32bit machine. Now I have a Win8.1 64bit machine and the printer doesn't work anymore. A can connect to it and the printer "boots", the PSU goes on and the fans start. So I assume the COM-connection works, and I also double-checked the baud-rate. However, from there communication stops. I don't receiveby GoingForGold - General
Thanks guys, I am definetly going to look into that and resolder all joints. I have kind of an "adaptor" for my atmega 1248P which allows me to take it out. Maybe the problem lies inside this.by GoingForGold - Printing
attached you find a new picture from a print. The printbed of course cools down. I replaced the thermistor with a brand new one. All the wires are twisted. What could be my next step? Thanks!by GoingForGold - Printing
Thanks for the tip. I'm now twisting the wires Some more information: I activated soft PWM in the firmware and since then, the temperature stopped tracking the other one. However, it startet jumping around (about +-10°C). And whenever I plug something in or out, the temperature changes a bit and then continues on that level. Like everything has an impact.by GoingForGold - Printing
Hi! I have a bulldog lite extruder, E3 Hotend with 0.4mm nozzle and use Slic3r and Marlin and try to print PLA. I'm sure you can help me with my problem. Whenever I try to print faster than 10mm/s, I can feel how the filament starts to skip. When I extrude manually and slowly, I can get up to 0.4mm/s extrusion, but not faster. The temperature is high enough, 210°C already. When I print somethinby GoingForGold - Printing
Damn it! Suddenly, the problem is back without changing anything...any more ideas?by GoingForGold - Printing
Found it! I defined the 2 unused sensors 1 and 2 with thermistor type 0. I defined them to 5 and now it workes as it should..Perfect, thank you!by GoingForGold - Printing
Thanks for the idea.. I checked all the pin assignments, nothing is assigned to these pins (I have a Gen7 1.5 (so the 1.4 pin assignments are the ones for me)). I now also double checked the electronic wirings..by GoingForGold - Printing
I checked that.. They are not the same. Is Marlin able to distinguish between analog and digital pins? Because it just says pins 0 and 1, but there are also digital pins 0 and 1.by GoingForGold - Printing
Hi! I use marlin on my prusa. You can see the temperature curve by clicking on the picture below. The temperatures move simultaniously, but you can clearly see that I only heated the extruder. The dip to 0° was when I unplugged the extruder thermistor. But, when I unplug the thermistor of the heated bed, nothing happens. Where do I have to look for the source of the problem?by GoingForGold - Printing
Hi! I'm using Marlin on a Gen7 1.5 board with repetier host. I have a serious issue which happens with different PCs and different firmwares, even different USB cables. The connection suddenly fails after a certain amount of time. I'd say it is always about 1-10min after the start of a print. It doesn't happen when I don't run G-Code, or not that soon at least. This leads me to the conclusion, tby GoingForGold - Printing
Hi there! While googling I found some threads from 2012 talking about trying to implement auto bed leveling in Teacup. However, unfortunately no one ever gave feedback if they accomplished it. Has anyone done it? I have a inductive sensor here and would love to have the feature. I know that Marlin has it, but I'm not sure about the compatability with my Gen7 20Mhz and it seems that Teacup is bby GoingForGold - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hi there! I calibrated my extruder and without the hot end it extrudes perfectly. However, when the Hot end is attached, as soon as force is required to push it through the small hole, it starts to get stuck. It travels slowly, but not the intended length. If I extrude manually 10mm from the host it maybe goes only 2mm. You can also see that the hobbed bolt skippes "steps" on the filament. It doby GoingForGold - Printing
Hi! I really want (need) to use retraction, since there are huge blops. But, as I can see on the gears, it only retracts 1mm out, but does not push this 1mm in again before restarting. This causes of course that one part of the layer does not get any filament. So I thought no problem, just enter the same amount of retraction to the "extra lenght on restart", but no matter what value I enter, notby GoingForGold - Slic3r
Thats what I thought too, but, 1. it only happens with round shapes and 2. there are lets say 10 PERFECT layers, and the 11th is not slightly odd, but complete rubbish. At the moment I'm trying to get good results with KISSLICER.by GoingForGold - Slic3r
This seems like explaining another problem, while printing cylinders, I have a very clean beginning, but later, it develops into a huge mess. Maybe I should try skeinforce..by GoingForGold - Slic3r
actually you just set amount of retraction (1mm) and then you can tick the option "retraction on layer change". But, as I said, only retraction doesn't help anything, it has to go back..by GoingForGold - Slic3r
Hi! Since I can see that the point where the printer changes the layer is slightly thicker and not very nice, I'd like to use retraction on layer change. But when I do, the beginning of the new layer gets no filament. It does retract, but it does not "put it back" after the change, it just continues extruding after the retraction. How can I fix that? Do I have to reckon that this also happens duby GoingForGold - Slic3r
when I thought I couldnt tighten the belts more, I found a way to do so. Thighten while not on one of the bearings and push it on the bearing afterwards. This did the trick for me, thank you very much!by GoingForGold - General
I'm going to print a cube to show. I have calibrated the steps and measured the filament and made an average calculation (2.94mm).by GoingForGold - General
Hi! I have problems with my infill, see the attached picture. In the picture, it already printed 3 layers. You can see the holes in it. What I think is remarkable, the holes are always at the same position, on every layer, which means that it is not a problem of lost steps (otherwise it would not hit the inner circle this perfectly). Of course, "regular" infill does not have to fill the whole laby GoingForGold - General
This is a good hint... The driver automatically installed on the XP. But on the Win7 it couldnt find anyhing, so I downloaded it from the serial converters manufacturer homepage. I could also try this on the XP.by GoingForGold - Repetier
repetier, i have bad news for your theory. I have tested everything, trust me. Today, I switched from my Win XP SP3 professional to Win 7 64bit and it prints without problems for hours...by GoingForGold - Repetier
I just soldered this for testing purposes. I wont connect the ATX power supply while this wire is soldered. It is just there to test the board without the power supply plugged in.by GoingForGold - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Just checked it with my multimeter, it is soldered to ground.by GoingForGold - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I did some research today, I hope you can read something out of this: I disconnected everything. Then, I soldered a wire from the USB 5V to the 5V pin of the ATX connector. Then, I only connected the USB. I put the board into a special debug mode, in which it only accepts commands but doesnt do anything with it. It crashed like it did before. So I can say it is no ground loop, no ESD...but whatby GoingForGold - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Ok, no luck with the 4th cable. It happens very random when I'm not in the room, so I don't think it is ESD. I'm going to check the solder joints on the capacitors. Maybe I can manage it to power the board by the same USB cable and totally remove everything like motors and sensor.by GoingForGold - Next Wave Electronics Working Group