On the subject of the vertical X-axis distance, I think 60mm is too small. Not withstanding a move to larger rods as Lanthan mentions above, NEMA17 motors are 42.3mm wide and LM8UU bearings are 15mm. I think you would want a compact design with the bearings above and below the motor; Greg Frost's x-carriage is 80mm wide (without fan mount, though depending on extruder and fitting it will be widerby droftarts - Developers
This thread on mendel-parts should help...by droftarts - General Mendel Topics
I think the lower PEEK piece is for locking the barrel into the middle piece, and the upper PEEK piece locks in the upper barrel. The middle and bottom pieces are 12mm diameter, the top is a a bit wider at 16mm. The whole hot end simply bolts through a 6.5mm hole in the aluminium plate, with the extruder directly above it. Yes, the clear plastic piece is just a temporary cover. I'm in the processby droftarts - Plastic Extruder Working Group
BigDoug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > No parts. No refund. Been waiting months. > Of course, your mileage may vary. I stand corrected. Have you tried calling them? What was it for, an Orca? If so, I'm not surprised you're still waiting, though I thought they had just about caught up. Or did they send, but you didn't receive?by droftarts - General
Like Lanthan said, you can invert the axes in the firmware. It's in 'configuration.h'. Just in case you missed it (I'm sure you haven't), here's the Gen6 electronics page, specifically the firmware bit that talks about inverting axes:by droftarts - General Mendel Topics
I bought Gen6 electronics back in May and the new V9 extruder/hot end recently. Both I had to wait for (I can't remember if I ordered them as 'pre-order'), as they tend to get advance orders and wait for suppliers to deliver, though I did order both these items when they were very new and in demand, and did expect to have to wait for them. I received both, though they shipped about 3 weeks laterby droftarts - General
The home origin needs to be front left or back right (that's position ON the bed, not position OF the bed), or your prints will be mirrored. Most Mendels/Prusas default front left, I didn't know this when I built my wooden 1X2 repstrap (picture above, Y is homed, X is away from the microswith on the right) and initially went back left. I realised after the first couple of prints they were flippedby droftarts - General Mendel Topics
Hi Robert, and welcome! I did a brief rundown of non-solder kits available in the UK/Europe here: This generally applies to other parts of the world to, but your supplier may be different. Some are harder to get hold of than others, and I didn't look at the older electronics eg Techzone Generation 3 remix/monotronics, which I think is a bit expensive and limited. Also, read that whole thread forby droftarts - Reprappers
I just received my V9 extruder kit today, so I took some pictures and took it apart! It's interesting what has come with this kit. Obviously the barrel, heater and nozzle. But also aluminium plate, fan, spare wire for the fan, heater resistor, thermistor, 4 wires with molex plug already attached for connecting resistor and thermistor, bootlace ferrules, two sizes of wire shrink wrap, long bolts,by droftarts - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Thanks Lanthan, your mods are sensible! I'm keen to move to a vertically stacked X-axis rods layout, like the Russian one here and the one Emmanuel is working on . I think these solve the X motor rigidity problem, and more tightly constrain the X-axis bars to the Z-axis rod.by droftarts - General
Hi Derek, probably best if you sign up for the forum! Lovely part of the world, the New Forest. I've put some information in my sig, so hopefully a few more people will answer and it will be worth doing. I may go through the 'Where are you?' forum and PM a few people directly if they are local. Though there are forums for Southampton and Portsmouth areas, they seem a rather quiet.by droftarts - United Kingdom RepRap User Group
More likely that your Y-axis motor pulley is slipping. Tighten the grub screw (if you have one) on the pulley or slow down the printing.by droftarts - RepSnapper
Hi Vato, are you going to post the models of your design soon? I understand you want to capitalise on your work, but it is the nature of the open source community that you take something, improve upon it, and share it back with the community! Then people can take your designs, and improve them again - like your X-carriage, it could be changed so it uses a direct drive extruder, so it would be narby droftarts - For Sale
If the X-axis rods were clamped solidly in the X-end holder, tensioning the X-axis belt would not pull the Z-axis rod in, and an additional Z rod would not be needed. That's why I'm not a fan of the current push-together X axis holders - they need a clamp. Tightening the Y axis can pull the threaded rod in as well; it might be worth fitting a strengthening rod across, like the lower Z rod supportby droftarts - General
Nearly there... All positive numbers, hooray! E numbers look sensible now, too. Before you start any print, you need to 'home' each axis in repsnapper, or add G28 X0 Y0 Z0 to start.gcode, as the electronics sets home to wherever the axes are when you switch on, which is unlikely to be the right place. You can set feed and flow rate to whatever you like (or, ideally, the same) by highlighting andby droftarts - General
Quick look: an improvement... Have you set 'multiply'? You've still got negative numbers. Speed tab: Feed rate (mm/s) and Flow rate setting (float) should be the same, try 25.0 to start with.by droftarts - General
Well, hopefully you're learning something along the way... I'll look at your gcode in the morning; I'm off to bed now, it's 2.20am here!by droftarts - General
Okay, things you need to do: 1. UNCHECK 'Activate chamber' in the chamber tab. Your electronics doesn't support a heated bed anyway. This will get rid of the new M140, M141 and M142 codes that your electronics doesn't understand, hence the errors in the error log. 2. UNCHECK 'Activate cool' in the Cool tab. It's what adds the M106 to your code, I think, and isn't necessary. 3. TURN ON Multiply,by droftarts - General
It may be that you are not setting the Z axis home correctly before you print. Assuming you have your Z axis home opto/microswitch installed and at the correct height, manually 'Home' each axis. I have found the homing of the Z axis in repsnapper doesn't always work as expected (no idea why!), so I tend to type "G28 Z0" (move to origin, resets home position) in repsnapper, on the Print tab, in thby droftarts - General
Ah, yes, I see what I did. I looked at the resistor above it. Doh!by droftarts - Controllers
As an alternative bracket, there's Spacexula's version which has a stand-off for the motor, so the belt can go right next to the motor, which might work better for you. See attached image. I found it in Greg Frost's github archive here: Of course, you'll need to get your printer working to print it...by droftarts - General
Hi ttsalo. Could be the extruder motor skipping steps, or like Buback says, the filament is running through the heater so fast that it isn't staying hot enough. Turn up extruder potentiometer and/or increase temperature. Could also be the gcode not transferring fast enough - I'm thinking about what it's doing when it's going around a cicle; lots of small movements very fast, and the electronics hby droftarts - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
; (semicolon) in front of a line is to comment it out, ie tells the firmware to ignore the line. For those M-codes that is fine. It is set by the 'replace.csv' file in the 'amendments' folder of Skeinforge/SFACT. You should set this so it comments out M101, M103, M108 and M113 (M113 is probably missing from yours at the moment, though M105 is in). Use this thread to help change replace.csv: As Jby droftarts - General
Which electronics are you using? I guess Gen6 from Mendel-parts seeing as you have their hot end. See here: The wires from the resistor and thermistor are NOT insulated, and you need to be careful that they don't earth out on the hot end. Easiest thing to do is put a wrapping of kapton tape on the them, or get high temperature ptfe shrink tubing. See here for general advice about the installingby droftarts - Controllers
I've amended my earlier, wrong post. So, is the schematic wrong, or did I read it wrong?by droftarts - Controllers
If you remove the nut between motor mount and bearing, you should be able to reverse the pulley on the motor shaft, so the flange on the end of the pulley holds the belt on, and the belt runs closer to the motor housing rather than on the end of the shaft. Enough, perhaps, to build yourself a new pulley. Or replace it; some people seem to swear by the metal pulleys you can get on ebay. It could bby droftarts - General
Looks like the Ultimaker guys are really running with it... Though, oops, they picked up the same mispelling from me to start off with!by droftarts - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
As marnargulus suggests, you can remove the nut between the motor mount and the large washer, bringing the bearing closer to the motor mount. So long as your Z-axis smooth rod is long enough, you can put the bottom Z-axis support rod UNDER the bottom frame rail, rather than on top, and the belt should run clear of the rod. See Part 5, step 5 of Gary Hodgson's excellent Prusa visual instructions:by droftarts - General
Ordered 4 x 1334A and 1 x 1684A (will use this as the extruder motor, and didn't want the shaft sticking out the back) at 11.55pm on Sunday, arrived this morning. So, now I have no excuse for not getting on with my Prusa build... except still waiting for a V9 hot end from mendel-parts. @nophead - have a look at this new Ultimaker variation, it seems similar to what you are considering, with theby droftarts - General Mendel Topics
I'm based in rural Hampshire, in Four Marks, near Alton. I'm a long way from anywhere, but I have lots of indoor space for a meet, probably space for 10 machine setups on long tables, to help people come together to troubleshoot problems, exchange ideas, trade/sell parts, see a reprap for the first time (something I didn't do until I'd built one!). I can probably even provide tea, coffee and all-by droftarts - United Kingdom RepRap User Group