I based it on Prusa's DXF and tweaked it. Rounded(Filleted) out the edges and thickened the top part of the frame. The best quote/price I could find for a custom cut was the acrylic wholesaler, TAP Plastics,by dshay - General Mendel Topics
I had similar problems with my Z axis and it turned out the trim wasn't set right and the built in overstress limiters of the (Allegro) Pololu drivers were kicking in.by dshay - Printing
@Brazen, I've tried your instructions, they do not seem to work for Windows 7 64bit, I don't get the options you describe under > Right Click >Propertiesby dshay - Slic3r
I just had the exact same problem. In my case it ended up being a misunderstanding about the wiring. I had the numbers and the letters mixed up. The numbers are the specific coils, the letters are different terminals, I had the opposite. I had a classic case of RTFD, the faq located here I found helpful: Pololu Faq for Stepper Driverby dshay - RAMPS Electronics
I updated the RAMPS 1.4 Wiki to reflect this bill of materials. I changed the 10 Ohm resistor Mfg PN PFC-W0805LF-03-10R0-B-173 to something that's more cost effective in the Wiki,by dshay - RAMPS Electronics
Attached is a .CSV format spreadsheet of a Bill of Materials for RAMPS 1.4 sourced from Digi-Key. The attached file has all the descriptions and reference designators, if you do not have a copy of Excel I highly recommend downloading the free program Open Office Base as these can open .CSV and XLS file formats. Download OpenOffice Here If you log into Digi-Key (or register and log in) one canby dshay - RAMPS Electronics
The fuses most likely the culprit are your crystal setting, your Boot Reset setting or your Reset Disable setting. Some of these the only way to fix is high voltage programming via a STK500/STK600 or a Dragon and this would prove difficult if you have a surface mount device. I checked your fuse settings by entering them into one of the AVR Fuse Bit Calculators that can be found online, nothinby dshay - Controllers
I would highly suggest anyone who purchases a Sanguino to install a .1uF ceramic capacitor between Power and Ground on the board, it's really easy to do because on the Atmega644 DIP they're right next to each other. I've attached documentation from Atmel, the manufacturer that would substantiate my suggestion. A cap like the following would do the trick... 478-4855-ND http://www.digikey.com/by dshay - Sanguino(lolu)
I'm new to Reprap, slowly collecting the Bill of Materials for a Prusa I3. I can't help but notice people having problems with thermal run-away on their hot ends due to thermistor failure. I would imagine one could have a watchdog timer in the code that would notice if the hot end stops cycling for a given period and assume the worst and shut down. Or design somewhere above the hot end a thby dshay - Mechanics