The Corsair CX430 costs more than a dedicated industrial supply ($45 for the industrial) $45 to $55 for the Corsair unless you catch a deal at $40. While I personally have had good luck with Corsair supplies, you can find a *lot* of posts from people who have had poor luck with the low power end of the line.by uncle_bob - RAMPS Electronics
If you want to slow the hot end down, you can adjust the max PWM in Marlin. Rather than worrying about how fast it heats up, far better to look at how stable it is once its at temperature. That's a much more critical issue.by uncle_bob - RAMPS Electronics
Be careful of low voltage zeners. Below about 5V or so they can be very leaky / high slope. A clamp reference may be easier to do accurately with one of the cheap shunt regulators.by uncle_bob - Controllers
Unless you have a way to eliminate all the other sources of error (backlash being a big one), you likely will see more from other contributions (that also vary) than you will from fine grain resolution changes.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Well since you obviously are wide open to other suggestions and have completely gone into all of them, I guess we might as well decide to close the thread without any further input from the OP....by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Which brings us back to the original departure point of reduction of noise on the Due board.... Is there a (practical) way to give the thermistor "empire" it's own dedicated ground going back to the Due? Have the thermistors floating unless the Due is plugged in. What ever performance you get that way, it's going to be the best you can get. These MCU ADC's are not real quiet on a single sampleby uncle_bob - Controllers
As you increase the diameter of the "what ever" that the line is wrapped on, you will speed up the head / increase torque needed / decrease the resolution of the system. Don't go to crazy on the diameter of what ever you put on the shaft.by uncle_bob - Delta Machines
Unless you have very unusual motors, they should be hot (40C) to the touch after printing. I suspect you have your current set way to low. Dig out your motor spec sheets and see what they are rated for. Set the Vref on the stepper drivers to 1/2 of the max rated current on the motors. I suspect your skipping issues will go away.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
There are outfits in third world countries that will sell you an i3 kit for $400 or less....I would not recommend buying from them, but they are out there.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Well, I'm not the OP, but to me, loading an SD card is not the same as printing. I can load an SD and stick it in the slot without much bother in a number of ways. If I have an SD and LCD then they are what's doing the printing rather than the tablet, phone, computer, or what ever.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
On Windows (certain versions) if you *add* another serial port into the mix, it will re-number all of them. If you plug your printer into a new port it often will re-number it. It's more the drivers than the OS, so different mixes of devices will do different things.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
For enough money, you can get lead screws with 50mm (2") pitch. That's quite adequate to move a "what ever" at the speeds normally seen in printers. The down side is that you likely will spend $500 to $2,000 on a set of them and all the nuts that go with them (~$60 a foot and $150 each for nuts). They also are a bit heavy (1" diameter steel rod isn't light stuff).by uncle_bob - Reprappers
When you connect multiple pieces of wire with one of these screw terminals, it tries to crush the wires into a solid mass. Since they are not perfect, it does not crush them completely. As things move (printers vibrate a bit) the wires re-seat themselves. They do so to achieve the lowest energy state. That's going to be the minimum crush point. The net effect is that they loosen up with time. Looby uncle_bob - RAMPS Electronics
It's a much better idea to start a new thread with a new problem rather than tacking on to the end of a different one. In your case it sounds like the motor current needs to be set or the feed rates are wrong in Marlin. 1) What is the rated current on your motors? 2) What are your feed rates set to in Marlin? 3) What kind of printer are you working with?by uncle_bob - RAMPS Electronics
What version of Marlin are you running?by uncle_bob - RAMPS Electronics
Quotebobc We don't need 12 bit resolution on thermistors though. We can also afford to have a lot of filtering on the inputs, because temperature varies relatively slowly. Well, we do and we don't. If you want to set up to print at 150C one day and 300C the next day having a couple more bits would be quite handy with the standard choices of 1K or 4.7K ohms. The temperature resolution gets prettby uncle_bob - Controllers
A lot of us have used: Name brand, big distributor, quick shipping, nice people. (Yes I'm a happy customer of theirs). I would avoid any of the eBay ones that look like the one on the link but are not *very* specific about exactly what it is. There are lot of clones out there. Many of them have issues.... Much easier to just buy it from a licensed dealer.by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
You want to get the rod lengths for an i3 if you are building an i3. They are very different between the two designs. That kit is low cost because of the SAE thread rod. You can get it even cheaper at your local hardware store. I'd suggest that 10mm thread rod is a better way to go ....by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
I would contact the seller and see what they have to say. That's not a very common hot end, so they probably are the best source of information on it.by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
It's not real clear what's happening here, but I'll make a few guesses (in no particular order): 1) You are extruding to much plastic and it's building up on the nozzle. When you turn a corner, the buildup gets left behind. - quick fix calibrate the extrusion rate. 2) You have something loose and your frame is moving. Simple fix - frame stabilizer thread rods. 3) You have a lot of ooze and as yoby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
As far as I know, the number of LISA's that have actually done a print can be counted on one hand, without using all the fingers. Some of us are heading off into crazy derivative builds without a whole lot of analysis (build it and see what happens....). I certainly would not recommend anybody take *anything* I've posted as a firm basis for a real printer until I get things up and running. I'd veby uncle_bob - Delta Machines
You are pushing plastic out the end of a nozzle. The diameter of the "track" is going to be 0.3 to 0.6 mm +/- 5%. You *might* get to +/- 2%. Extruders are only just so good. That puts a limit on your resolution in the 0.01 mm range. Anything over 100 steps per mm is simply wasted. If you go to precision thread rod for all your drives (normal thread rod won't be good enough) the speeds will droby uncle_bob - Reprappers
Best bet is to switch over to Marlin, it's the more common software to use these days. It has things like auto bed leveling that you might want to use. There is no reason to play with pins.h on a printer like yours. If you have messed with it, download a fresh copy and use it instead. All of the pin settings are run from configuration.h when you select your main board. That setting must be corrby uncle_bob - Reprappers
You may be going a bit to crazy with your stick down stuff (what ever it is). In most cases the print should be fairly easy to take off after the glass cools. With hairspray and glass, I hear a very distinct "pop" as it lets go. The heated bed keeps it hot enough (with proper settings) that it's going to shrink a bit as it cools. That's what gives you the "pop". I also have friends that love usiby uncle_bob - Reprappers
The risk with printing from a tablet (or phone) is that the gizmo may or may not be able to keep up with your printer. There are a lot of variables (which printer, set to go how fast, how complex a print, what settings on the gizmo, what else running on the gizmo, gizmo connected how, printer connected how). If you have problems they may be very hard to track down and identify as speed related. Tby uncle_bob - Reprappers
This would be a mistake. Either switch to 3mm (fairly easy to do) or get one that's the right size.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
A lot of this depends on things like what OS you are running. A simple generic approach: 1) Download Pronterface source code from Git 2) Set up your compiler with the listed dependancies (as needed) 3) Do a test compile and make sure the result works 4) Copy the source tree to directories pronterface1.... pronterface5 5) Rename the output file in each tree according to the tree name 6) Renameby uncle_bob - Reprappers
A normal ATX supply that will work with these printers needs to be rated for 600W or so if it's going to have a chance. An industrial supply that only puts out +12 and nothing else rated at 350W is adequate to run one of these printers. Spend the $45 and get a good industrial supply. ====== Power into the hot end is going to vary directly with 1/resistance. Increase the resistor to 20 ohms andby uncle_bob - RAMPS Electronics
The problem with the edges is a bit strange. The clock rates aren't very fast, but the semiconductor process used for the ARM is indeed quite fast. The result is that the edge rates coming out of the MCU are a lot faster than you would guess they would be. Spray is all edge rate related, so indeed you can get "stuff" all over the place with an ARM. For short traces - not an issue. Longer traces oby uncle_bob - Controllers
My guess is that the Big LISA will come in over $1K by the time I'm done. If it's $2K, that's not great, but it won't stop the program. If I get it done in 6 months and two passes, that's fantastic. As far as a "normal" printer goes - somebody needs to get the Marlin boys working on the firmware. Yes I could do that, no I'm not raising my hand to do it. For right now the Python code looks likeby uncle_bob - Delta Machines