If you motor wires have the black style connector, it can just be turn around 180 and plugged back in. (wont work with the white or red keyed connectors) NB only disconnect and reconnect motors with the power off, or you may blow a stepper driver Or you can set the inverse flag in the firmware. Z could be leveling, do you Z threaded rods stay straight or do they oscillate? Or it could be powby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I used to fix switch mode power supplies as part of my job. So now I refuse to open them unless I have toby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Nope, your google-fu is fine. This is just how it is.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hi What OS? Does the LED light up when you plug the board into the USB? Python is a language interpreter, it is only needed to run python applications (such as pronterface) step 1) the hardware has to recognize the FTDI I suspect your running windows? Open up your device manager Look at the serial ports, plug in the Sanguinololu, does the LED turn on? Does the computer now show an additionby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
My Sanguinololu look like this from the power connector The red power cable in a perfect world should really be yellow (for 12 volts) The red and black power cables lead back to a screw terminal and then to the Plug I mentioned. The plug also has the green and black shorted out. (the power on switch) NB there are two yellow and two black going from the plug to the screw terminal, neededby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
You dont need to do all those mods, I strongly advise not opening up a power supply if you dont know what your doing. All I did was get a converter plug from my local pc shop to plug into the large connector, cut off the end you dont need and use the wires from that to a screw terminal and from there to the Prusa Then you just connect the power button line to ground and your done. Somethingby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hi Derae Im in Christchurch, with almost 3 printer under my belt (and have printed many sets of plastics for many others) See for 'log' of how I did it. As for which printer, I always recommend a Prusa. Even if you really want something else, As the Prusa is the defacto standard, lots of people have them and there is lots of documentation and advise. Once you have built a prusa, you canby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
6amp at 12volt is minimum for a reprap without Heated build platform (5amps is just for the Hot end) 17amp at 12volt is minimum for a reprap with a 12v PCB Heated build platform (11amps for the HBP) A standard PC power supply is what most of us use, or a 12volt only supply off of ebayby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
This topic comes up a lot in the IRC channel From those that use both, they say there is no noticeable difference, and it definitely not worth the extra money 1.75 filament requires. If you planning extreme fine detail, ie a nozzle less that .25mm. Then it may be better due to the lower pressures involved, But it still going to take some pressure to force it threw that small a hole (makergearby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I just use micro switches, available everywhere... wired normally closedby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I have a limited number of RAMPS 1.3 bare PCB's for sale. These are currently listed on trademeby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I have traded some of my Sanguinolou PCB's for some Ramps 1.3 Boards (the last non surface mount version of this board) I will list them on trademe soon. If anyone is interested before then, send me an e-mail.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
comment from Prusa today re jhead " weve had j-heads but each nozzle was different, a lot, and few of them were not usable :-(((" So I cant recommend j-head at this time.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I use the heated bed PCB from But if you have upsized your build area, this wont work. I really like makergear hot ends Ramps is good as is Sanguinololu for the main controller. You should take a look at www.emakershop.com and or www.lulzbot.com cheaper prices...by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
The Y issue does sound like a mega issue. LEDs on the drivers? What drivers are you using? Standard pololu drivers have no LEDsby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I didnt start with a wolf strap, but I did repstrap with a McWire Cartesian Bot 1.2 Same sort of thing, thread driven... very slow. But worked See my old blog posts..by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
10 tooth isnt a issue, you just recalculate the x and y steps for your firmware. normally 8 (tooth) * 5 (t5 belts) = 40mm per revolution (1.8 degree stepper is) 200 (steps per revolution) * (1/16 micro stepping) 16 = 3200 (steps per revolution) so 3200/40 = 80 steps per mm But for you its 3200/50 = 64 steps per mm Presuming you have standard parts.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
People have tried to use this particular controller before, with no success.. see Also you still need a controller board, this provides the real time control that a pc with parallel port cant do. Ie if a milling machine (what these boards are for) pauses, no issue, the head just spins doing nothing, if you pause a reprap plastic will still flow, causing blobs.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I said no simply because I don't use ABS. Its stinks when being used, and is petrochemical derivative... basically not a nice plastic to use. But in saying that It does have some advantages over PLA, but not enough to make me want to use it. I didn't elaborate on this, as my auction is not the correct medium to discuss this. Step one. I would upload some images of the cad thing you want, orby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Using a resister as a heater is just abusing the electronics, nichrome is designed to be a heater. That being said, resister hot end do seem to work, though Ive heard of a few burning out...by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Im now also selling bare Sanguinololu printed circuit boards, if thats any help to you See trademe.co.nz and emakershop.comby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I have a set on trademe at the moment... Going to try a set a month for a while, till I get boredby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I'm now selling Sanguinololu Motherboards On trademe Just the bare boards at the moment, maybe some populated ones if I get some time over xmas break. Christchurch people are welcome to come take a look at these if they wish. These will be listed shortly once I work out shipping and a price etc, but If you want one now and can pick it up, leave me a message. Edit: Now available @ http://www.eby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I have a set of Plastics for a Prusa + standard wades extruder on trademe at present if anyones wanting them. Made locally here In Christchurch UPDATE: These have now sold, but I will put some other sets up from time to time.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I have a set up on Trademe presently if anyone keen.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I don't think your feeder system is going to be strong enough, the PLA or ABS is really quite viscous. All working extruders have some sort of gear that cuts into the plastic to drag it threw. Eg a hobbed bolt Other than that it looks nice.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
You guys should get online to the reprap IRC channel, lots of help there.. If you know IRC here are the details irc://freenode/Reprap Or you can just use the web interfaceby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Reece got to Christchurch ok, where he examined my working Prusa and took notes on various ideas He should be back home in Dunedin by now.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
From makergear, not makerbot.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Oh Ive switched to from facebook... better suited for the job. If anyone wants to take a look...by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group