Both Cura and Slic3r support AMF files already. Slic3r uses them for multicolor prints and Cura did use it for multicolor prints with the old SF engine and still supports them in the new Cura engine but I do not think it does multicolor yet.
Forum: Developers

If you google "push to connect fittings" you will find many places that sell them, even places like home depot. For that thread and tube size you may need to call a hydraulic or industrial supply house in your area. You can also thread a common nut onto the tube as a mounting method. That is how most RepRap bowden tube were done until mid last year. You can see it in the instructions for Tantill
Forum: Reprappers

The Q type connector is very hard to find, I had to buy them in bulk. A Q type connector has a 6mm barrel and 3mm pin to fit the toshiba power supply connector. If you can't find one online and do not want to replace the original Q type with a different type send me a PM and I may be able to supply one.
Forum: Tantillus

Yes the 4x6 tube will work fine. It will allow you to run over sized filament (3.05+). The only issue with the 4mm ID tubing is the retraction can be a little harder to get perfect. It is nothing I would worry about unless it causes you a real issue. I have a few machines with 4mm ID tubing so I can use cheap unreliable filament.
Forum: Tantillus

The new resins are getting cheaper and you are getting more and more choice of material hardness. Along with getting more suppliers I think resin is the way of the future with its higher quality surface finish. Some of the resin based printers are getting really fast and can print things faster than an FFF machine too (not necessarily including post processing time though). Titan 1 boasts speed o
Forum: General

I personally think 3mm is better for Bowden systems, but a lot of people say that 1.75mm is better. In the end it is really up to you which you use. I would either switch it to a 2mm ID tube (or put one inside your current tube) or I would get a 3mm hotend and filament.
Forum: Tantillus

Some people use a fan on there electronics but I do not. If you have the motors tuned based on my instructions (minimum current capable of moving the axis without a lot of noise) the drivers should not get hot enough to need a fan. If you have to turn the current up to overcome friction of hotend issues then yes you may need to cool the drivers but you also may need to cool the motors.
Forum: Tantillus

Quotemdcompositi Hi sublime! finally I solved last problems and start to first printings! machine is very very fast!! In next days I'll send some picture !! needs other calibrations but I'm on the right way!! thank you for the moment.... we stay tuned!!! p.s I want to take a power supply dedicated and lcd display another question! ...but need stepper drivers and ramps a fan? I'm glad you fig
Forum: Tantillus

I would say Ingentis since it has a bed that only moves in Z and all machines with a bed that move in X or Y have the same issues so it makes not difference which one of them you choose.
Forum: General

Are you running a 3mm bowden tube with 1.75mm filament? If yes then that may be the issue. If not read below. I do not have much experience with 1.75mm filament so this is just a guess. Maybe the filament is buckling between the bowden tube and the top of the hotend because there is a gap between them. Can you thread the bowden tube further through the nut that holds it to the carriage so it go
Forum: Tantillus

From the pictures I would say it has a good chance of being correct. But you would have to pull it apart to see if it is made and assembled correctly. It should have a PTFE liner. The melt chamber should be the same inside diameter as the ptfe liner (some companies sell 3mm hotends with a ptfe liner for 1.75mm filament and it does not work correctly). Have you used the Tantillus calculator to ge
Forum: Tantillus

It could be the wrong thermistor selected in the config file of Marlin. The default is set to 1 which was the default for a J-head prior to this year, new J-head;s uses number 5 I believe. Other hotends use can use different thermistors. If the wrong thermistor is selected it will not be reading the correct temperature. It could also be you are trying to manually extrude too fast using the host p
Forum: Tantillus

Quotemdcompositi I changed the speed setting 5 but the same does not change anything! I use slic3r I would put my money on the problem being slic3r. It is a very buggy piece of software and should only be used for experimentation. I recommend moving to a reliable slicer like Kisslicer or Cura.
Forum: Tantillus

Quotemdcompositi #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {150, 150, 15, 40} The 15 is the max speed of the Z axis. For machines other than Tantillus 15 is really fast and could be too fast for your machine because of your voltage or motors or friction etc and you may need as slow as 5 Beyond that are you using Kisslicer with the Tantillus profiles?
Forum: Tantillus

I can't think of any reason why it would work in the host and not during a print. Have you tried it more than once? I know my branch of Marlin has a bug where every once and a while the Z axis stops responding between prints and the machine needs to be rebooted. Also be sure to have the max Z speed set in the firmware otherwise the slicing software will try and move it too fast and it will not m
Forum: Tantillus

Quotehercek It is a pity you did not get this merged. The argument about accumulating error due to use of relative coordinates is silly. There are 4 decimal places after the dot in the *.gcode files. This may lead to volume error of about 2.4e-4 mm³ per one E movement. But filament diameter typically varies at least in the range like 1.74 to 1.76 mm. This leads to error of about 5.5e-2 mm³ per on
Forum: Experimental

Quotemdcompositi Finally I solved all problems and now my Tantillus works!! I'm trying to make a first printing but I have a problem I can not solve! in practice when I start a print job, the z-axis instead of going down as the machine completes a layer, remains firm on the same I realized that I need to do a setting of the z axis in the software that runs it but I can not find the right option
Forum: Tantillus

Quotemdcompositi QuoteSublime The power supply looks fine. I run my Tantillus off of 15V to allow a little faster step rates as well as faster heating times but other than that yours should work fine. The motors are not correct. Although they are the correct current (1.7A) they are not the correct resistance or voltage. We want about 1.65ohms of resistance and you have 30ohms. We want the lowest
Forum: Tantillus

Also the microstepping is set vis the jumpers under the drivers.
Forum: Tantillus

The power supply looks fine. I run my Tantillus off of 15V to allow a little faster step rates as well as faster heating times but other than that yours should work fine. The motors are not correct. Although they are the correct current (1.7A) they are not the correct resistance or voltage. We want about 1.65ohms of resistance and you have 30ohms. We want the lowest voltage motors you can get (u
Forum: Tantillus

For delicate parts just soak it in room temperature water. For large strong parts you can tap the side of them with a hammer or other hard/heavy object and the piece usually will release. For the stuff between delicate and strong I use a scraper or medium size olfa knife blade (be very careful not to cut yourself) to get under the part and pop it off.
Forum: Tantillus

For the glue mix I use I must clean the glass well first and sometimes I will apply more than one coat. I have also sanded the glue after a few coats. Last thing I do to get parts to really stick is wipe the glue with acetone right before starting the print. It seems to activate or soften it a little as well as remove the shiny top coat from the glue air drying.
Forum: Tantillus

Interesting looking. Please do post back here after building one.
Forum: Tantillus

It looks like you have the thermistor connected to the second thermistor location not the first (the first is 0 not 1) If the motors just vibrate and do not move it could be a few things. Bad driver. Weak motor. Too much friction (too tight of bushings, too tight of gear meshing, too thick of hotend mount acrylic (should be 2.8 - 3.0 mm). Misaligned axis. Trying to move the axis too fast. Incor
Forum: Tantillus

For the thermistor in Marlin you change line 61 of configuration.h to match which ever thermistor you are using from the list (lines 47-59). If your thermistor is not listed you may need to add it to thermistortable.h (you are most likely able to copy it from a newer version of Marlin). If you read the instructions it tells you to adjust the current until the motors move and then adjust it a tin
Forum: Tantillus

Do you have the thermistor set the correct one in Marlin? Have you checked to make sure all the connections are good and that you have continuity at the end of the cable? I don't use the vref to tune the drivers. If you read the Tantillus instructions there is a part near the end that tells you how to calibrate the current.
Forum: Tantillus

In the last issue of RepRap Magazine RichRap did a hotend review and he says the J-head is the best hotend for extruding Nylon. You can also print with ABS and PLA. But as Dirty Steve said it has to be a real j-head, not a knock off.
Forum: Reprappers

For the air over the nozzle I would just wrap the hotend tip with Kapton to protect it from the airflow. Also do not over look the thermistor setting. The default is set to use the discontinued thermistor that came with most hotends up until mid last year. EDIT: also reducing the tube to 2mm will help a lot with retraction and possibly buckling. You can use 3mm OD 2mm ID to line the tube and red
Forum: Tantillus

The manual controls will not work if the temperature is not reading correct. The firmware is set up for a thermistor not a thermocouple. I am not sure of what changes are required to run a thermocouple, but I do know you require a special interface board. I would read up on using a thermocouple or switch to a thermistor.
Forum: Tantillus

It was designed for 3mm filament and it does not look like you did any modifications to run 1.75mm filament. It even looks like you are running it through 3mm ID tubing. I think if you remove the bowden tube from the extruder and then remove the nut it is threaded into and drill the inner hole to the outer diameter of the bowden tube. Then reassemble it with the bowden tubing going all the way t
Forum: Tantillus