Maybe upload the model and I can try slicing it with the version of Cura I am running.
Forum: Experimental

The only things I found are: cool_min_layer_time = 5 Which would slow a perimeter only print and with spiralize enabled and it moving the Z every second it could be trying to make each section between the Z moves 5 seconds. I would try 0 and/or 1 to see if it speeds up. Also this one can cause some strange outcomes. I am not sure if it could effect the print speed but it may be worth disabling
Forum: Experimental

I am pretty sure this is the generic message you get when there is a timing error while uploading a sketch to almost any Arduino board. If you google stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00 you will find thousands of threads about it and solution is to press the reset button and release it right before the sketch finishes compiling and starts to upload to the board.
Forum: Mendel90

Have you tried another version to see if it is a version specific problem? Have you checked the speeds in the gcode file to confirm it is not changing them? The F numbers are in mm/m not mm/s When you played with the minimum layer time did you try 0? Can you confirm it is not your firmware limiting the speed. Can you attach your Cura config to have a look at?
Forum: Experimental

There is a thread in the Tantillus forum about heated beds and they have a link to ?
Forum: Wanted

Quotejzatopa sublime did you ever try GT2 belt for your Z axis? I have not. Ingentis uses them and Printxl and Up to name a few use some kind of belts for their Z axis. It should work well, I just have a fascination with cable drive. I even have a set of gt2 belts and pulleys sitting on my shelf for almost two years that I've yet to use despite designing and building a new machine.
Forum: Tantillus

If it's just minor I would use a scotch bright pad. If it is to severe that that does not take it out I would then try some emery cloth.
Forum: Tantillus

Hold on I lied. I used the inside dimensions between the rods. The rods are actually 162mm apart center to center. That would make it only a 2mm offset. I am editing the original post to reflect the correct dimensions as to not confuse anyone else.
Forum: Tantillus

Also have you looked at Goopyplastics variant or Ingentis or their cousin Eustathios as a starting point?
Forum: Tantillus

The outer rods are 162mm's apart and the holes are 166mm's apart making the difference 4mm's and then each offset would be 2mm's. If you have more space you could go wider but in the printed case that had to be pretty exact to avoid contacting the case or the X/Y end. You do not need the holes if you are able to tension the cables correctly. I have one machine without any holes and none of the
Forum: Tantillus

Quotejbernardis Sublime I already have exactly that. My layer height is 0.2 and I have my extrusion width set to 0.56 - independently calculated, but verified with your calculator. Based on that, I set the skin thickness to 1.12 (BTW - I like the feature of specifying skin thickness in mm instead of number of perimeters). Good to hear. How did you come to that extrusion width? My calculator i
Forum: Experimental

Quotewhosawhatsisbut you're still likely to end up with circles smaller than what you specified, especially if you try to approximate a smooth curve too closely by using small facets. This has never made any sense to me unless OpenScad measures circles flat to flat and this technique relies on the vertices being placed further out than the diameter being printed (actually what skeinforge stretc
Forum: Experimental

Glad to hear it is working for you. For the inner holes I would suggest you play with the layer height and the width. I would suggest 0.2mm layers and then use my calculator to determine the extrusion width. Then you will have to enter a "shell thickness" that is exactly divisible by that width because of how Cura will print strange widths if you are not careful with the shell thickness. (Cura di
Forum: Experimental

If it is leaking it would cause under extrusion and oxidation. The oxidation would cause the nozzle to build up crude in the tip really fast which would result in high back pressure, slipping filament drive and blotchy extrusion. I would take it apart, burn out the old material with a torch from the barrel and tip and then do a full rebuild.
Forum: Printing

Under the microscope it looks more like under extruding which is what your steps per mm indicate. But at the same time the extrusion is rough not just too skinny. You say you are using the same role of filament and that the first print was from months ago. That makes me think that roll of filament has been sitting around for a while and could have absorbed moisture which can result in bad extrusi
Forum: Printing

Quotetmorris9 Just checked and in Slic3r my filament is set at 2.84, I measured it at 2.86, Enough to cause a problem? Doubtful, but it would result in a small over extrusion.
Forum: Printing

Quotetmorris9 I am pretty sure the black filament is from the same roll. But lets assume it's not, how would I test this? Can I change something in Slic3r like extrusion multiplier and see if I get better results? You could use a live flow modifier to change it on the fly to get it perfect. If you have an LCD you can follow the instructions that say "fine tuning the flow" . If you do not have a
Forum: Printing

It could be the filament diameter is greater now which is causing the over extrusion since you say it is an old gcode file. Maybe you had 2.8mm filament and now you have 3mm.
Forum: Printing

I would say you are over extruding.
Forum: Printing

This is basically what the infill every N layers feature in most slicers is for. If you set it to slice at 0.1mm and then set the infill every 4 layers the infill will be at 0.4mm. The width of each is defined by the extrusion width settings in the slicer. Some slicers will allow a different hotend for the infill and perimeters and if not you can use my tool change post processor to do it.
Forum: General

Quotejbernardis 1) I assume that whatever I measure as the difference I should halve because I need to achieve half of the correction on each side of the object, and 2) I think of inset as a value taken away. So based on this, I assume a positive number REDUCES the size of the object, and if I want to make the object bigger, I should reduce the inset value? Yes exactly. If a 20mm cube comes ou
Forum: Experimental

Ok I finally figured out how to build this in windows 7 32bit in virtual box. Here is the win32 build
Forum: Experimental

OK here are .deb files for Ubuntu: 32bit 64bit They were compiled on Ubuntu 13.04 since that is what I am running.
Forum: Experimental

In a lot of those PTC fittings you will find a hex hole that allows you to use an Allen key to tighten it. If your fitting has that hex in the threaded section then you can cut the top of it off and still be able to remove it if need be.
Forum: Reprappers

Quotejbernardis I am having trouble building your git. It looks like it clones your CuraEngine, and then compilation fails on file gcodeExport.cpp. It's complaining about line 149, and when I look there I see the following: <<<<<<< HEAD This is definitely not C++ - it looks like some kind of git artifact. In any event, I don't know how to proceed. I am running Ubuntu 12
Forum: Experimental

Quotebrobinsonx I checked for the PTFE liner and it does have one, so i guess I dodged a bullet there. I like your idea about just replacing the top fitting. According to the print on eBay the threads are standard 5/16-24 SAE threads so a simple set screw will do (of course with a hole drilled). Hopefully tomorrow I can test it out. Thanks for the help Sublime. The threads on a Real J-head a
Forum: Reprappers

Quotejbernardis I find myself using Cura more and more. I really like the results I get from it, and it is very fast. It's also accurate - I've had files that baffled both slic3r and skeinforge that cura slices without an issue. Its also nice that you can turn the repairing on an off. Quote The only issue I am having with it is in saving profiles. If I select an already existing file from t
Forum: Experimental

OK there is a chance that that hotend will not be usable since a lot of those cheap knock of J-heads simply do not work. But lets assume for a minute that you got one of the good knock off's and go from there. Normally in a Real j-head you will find a hollow set screw in the top of the peek that allows you too remove the PTFE liner (which it must have to work correctly and some cheap clones do n
Forum: Reprappers

Looks good. I am glad you figured it out. I would say the problem with the mouth is actually a problem with Kisslicers logic. It likes to place the perimeter seam on corners if possible and that is what it has done. You can get around that by turning the model 180 degrees in a modelling program before opening in it in Kisslicer (will not work if you rotate it in Kisslicer). This will force the s
Forum: Tantillus

QuoteMrDoctorDIV is support material finicky with bowden as well? I have never had issues with the Support in Kisslicer with a Bowden. I have never tried any other slicers support so I can not say if it works with them. Also Kisslicer has the best support hands down as well as the best Print quality with Cura in second place and Skeinforge and Sfact following. I have also been hearing great thi
Forum: General