QuoteMrDoctorDIV QuoteSublime Cable Z cons on Tantillus: 1) Very difficult to create a drum that ends up with an even steps per mm. 2) With the rounding errors created by the drum size you end up with a limited number of possible layer heights available to use. 3) Having the drum directly attached to the motor without any gearing the possible layer heights without large rounding errors is limited
Forum: General

Quotemdcompositi I solved this problem! I recalculated the steps per mm using this Now the printer is fine, just settle the whole thing and when I'll make some decent print I'll public some photos! with respect to the z axis, I used to twice the silicone tube and the holder printable but it happened that was cut and had to do it again. can you better explain problems regarding use of the couple
Forum: Tantillus

From my experience designing Tantillus with a threaded rod lead screw to start and then moving over to a cable I can give you a little real world feed back. Threaded Rod cons on Tantillus: 1) The imperial threaded rod had to use layer heights that had minimal rounding errors and that limited the possible layer heights by a small amount (still had lots of choice). 2) To prevent Z banding you had
Forum: General

The last time I looked into this it was not possible. Repetier firmware does allow you to use different steps/mm. Also you could use M and G codes in your nozzle change field of the slicing software to change the steps per mm of Marlin at each tool change.
Forum: Reprappers

QuoteA2 QuoteSublime You would also have the issue of the driver not being made to run two motors which causes the microstepping to not work as designed. Can you provide more details about the disadvantages of this, and how it's configured. I've read this a few times but I don't have clear notes about it. Tks. My understanding of it is not all that great either. I know it has to do with EMF b
Forum: General

Quotemdcompositi I'm using pronterface and kisslicer but I could not! I set all the different settings but when I start a print of a gcode generated by kisslicer, the printer seems crazy! especially the extruder runs faster without stopping! Sounds like you switched kisslicer from Relative E to Absolute E without changing the firmware to match (Cura uses Absolute E but inserts the command to tem
Forum: Tantillus

Glad I could help. Quotetmorris9 By the way I am a logical thinker and I like to understand why something needs to be set the way it is rather than someone just saying set it at this with no explanation. Sublime you showed me with the calculation something I had not considered before (layer height x layer numbers = thickness) it seems so simple now and I feel a little stupid for not thinking of
Forum: Printing

With that said you were printing 0.14 * 4 = 0.56 mm's so at 0.1mm layers you should have at least 6 layers to have the same top and bottom thickness. But with 0.1mm layers you may find you need even more since 0.1mm layers do not bridge well and take a few extra to make a solid base for the final layers.
Forum: Printing

You say "4 top layers so that's not it" but sometimes for certain infill percentages and layer heights you may need 20 layers to make a solid top. My rule is usually I try and make the top and bottom 1mm - 1.5mm thick (thickness is also the way Kisslicer and Cura set the the top and bottom since layer count means very little without layer thickness being taken in to account). So if you are settin
Forum: Printing

No worries. In this post you had motors that were 30ohms per coil and I was not sure if you had changed them.
Forum: Tantillus

The bottom is Z max not min. Think of the min as when the gap between the nozzle and bed is at its minimum.
Forum: Tantillus

@Robonz It was not that he was using a 12volt power supply. My comment was about his motors being rated at 12v @ 1.7A and having 30ohm coils which means the time it takes to reach the full 1.7A may be longer than the step takes. This would result in less current going to the motor which equals less torque. Most RepRaps run motors rated at 2.8v @ 1.65A motors which have 1.65ohm coils and can reac
Forum: Tantillus

Tantillus, Ingentis, Up by Afina, Printxl, all deltas and a few others use Belts or cables on Z and NEVER have z wobble and do not require any special tuning to not have Z wobble. Where as lead screw machines are hit and miss and most people do have to fight it and find a way to eliminate it. This shows up far more when printing layer heights less than 0.3 and more as you go even lower. You do n
Forum: General

The LM8uu's on the rotating shafts would cause some issues and could cause bad binding. You could try running the breakin.g file and see if it makes them move a little better. But be aware that the balls of the linear bearing are made to roll from end to end, not to rotate and will leave scratches and marks in your smooth rod as well as wear out and get loose quickly. With the printed bushings y
Forum: Tantillus

I use super glue and epoxy to join my PLA prints. You can also use a soldering iron to weld the parts together as long as you can control the temperature.
Forum: Tantillus

You could try Cura and in the expert options there is an option to keep open faces.
Forum: Slic3r

I only print from SD card using the LCD. When I printed from USB I printed from Pronterface. If you follow the instructions on Tantillus.org it has you install Pronterface and use it to manually move the axis. For the Slicing I use Kisslicer 99.8% of the time and the rest I use Cura (just for Spiral perimeters). No matter what software you use the center should be set to 50 50 since it is half
Forum: Tantillus

Are you sure it is not just taking a long time. Skeinforge is very slow and for very complex models it can take 12 hours to slice and gives very little feedback during that time. Also if it is just the model is broken you can try repairing it with something like admesh (the repair tool used in Slic3r) or Meshlab or Netfabb
Forum: Skeinforge

For it not being centered. If you are using Repitier firmware it may be the cause and I will not be able to help. For now lets assume it is not the issue. In Kisslicer make sure the bed center is set as 50 50 When you first plug in the machine make sure the carriage is in the back right corner (also that the motors move away from the back right corner when you move them in the positive directio
Forum: Tantillus

If you pay for the Kisslicer license you can put as many things on the build plate as you like.
Forum: Reprappers

The extruder motor will not turn unless you have the hotend heated. You could try M302 to allow cold extrusions as long as there is a thermistor connected, if there is no thermistor it will not work even with M302.
Forum: Reprappers

QuoteRobonz If you want to keep that simple design the planetary gear stepper works a treat with that set up. http://www.omc-stepperonline.com/gear-ratio-51-planetary-gearbox-high-torque-nema-17-stepper-17hs191684spg5-p-40.html Cheers Keith Just be aware that motor has an 8mm shaft and you will not be able to use the mk7 gear. You would need something like a "mini hyena" to fit over the shaft.
Forum: Tantillus

Quotewaitaki Invert the X axis end stop in firmware Since he tested it with M119 and they show as being correct this would just make it even more confusing. All that is needed is to unplug the machine from the wall so it has no power and then unplug the motor and plug it in the other way around. This will make it got the opposite direction and the problem will go away.
Forum: Reprappers

You could print at the same speed for all parts of the model. That is how the Ultimaker and Cura do there printing. The only reason we speed up for the infill is to save a little bit of time.
Forum: Tantillus

Looks good. I like that it is so minimal and does not use any special parts. From what I have read it is very hard to print 3mm filament with a direct drive extruder. The common recommendation is to not even attempt it and to only use direct for 1.75mm and to use a geared extruder for 3mm.
Forum: Tantillus

Also you should never use a print to calibrate your X and Y steps per mm. Use a set of digital calipers and measure the actual movement of the axis. NEVER change your X and Y steps per mm based on a printed object dimensions.
Forum: Printing

That posting does not give enough specs to determine if it can handle the power. You can check with the seller what the rated amperage is on them. You need it to be able to handle the 90watts your power supply can supply. You can use ohm's law to figure out the wattage as long as you have the voltage and amperage ratings of the connector. Those ones are rated at 12-36v but no other rating. Ohms
Forum: Tantillus

If you are willing to machine it a little you could look at male/female brass standoffs and then drill a hole down the centre and machine the groove in the side.
Forum: Reprappers

You could replace the power supply's connector and use a standard size DC power jack (5.5mm OD x 2.1mm ID) like this set (this set is locking but it does not need to be) DO NOT USE THE ONE I LINKED TO it is only rated at 1A @ 16V (16 watts) and you want at least 5A @ at least 15V (75 watts) Or you can cut the power supplies end off and wire it the plug on the RAMPS board and use it to disconnec
Forum: Tantillus

I did a search and could not find any in the time I had. Here is a wikipedia entry showing that 6.3mm O.D. by 3.1mm I.D connectors are called type Q When I made that BOM they were easier to get, it may be that they are no longer used.
Forum: Tantillus