Hi Leute Ich bräuchte sehr dringend heute oder morgen (also is 28.8.2013) eine Spule 3mm PLA (min 1kg) ! Farbe wahlweise transparent oder weiß - geht aber schlimmstenfalls auch andersfarbig! Hoffentlich findet sich jemand in Wien der grad eine übrig hat? LGvon 13asilis - Austria RUG
Hey war vor gut einem Jahr genau in der selben Position wie du, komplett verwirrter Einsteiger in das RepRap Projekt, keine Ahnung was eigentlich wichtig ist oder welches Modell ich mir zusammenschrauben sollte ... Ich hatte mir dann auch eingebildet gleich einen Orca (von MendelParts) bauen zu müssen, hab mich im Endeffekt aber zum Glück für den normalen Prusa Mendel i2 entschieden und die Entscvon 13asilis - Austria RUG
Hi Leute, Sorry, dass ich erst so spät schreibe, war etwas gestresst (und bin es eigentlich immer noch :-) ) Also es is echt super gelaufen! Kein Drucker eingegangen, die 3 Drucker sind den ganzen Tag durchgelaufen! Das einscannen hat auch super geklappt, wir waren zum Glück einige Leute die sich mit 3D-Programmen mehr oder weniger gut auskennen, daher ging die Bearbeitung der Rohdaten echt flottvon 13asilis - Austria RUG
Update zu unserem Projekt: wir werden naechste Woche unseren ersten Workshop unter dem Namen "Technik-Werkstatt" (siehe Flyer) veranstalten, dabei wollen wir den Besuchern das Thema 3D-Scan und -Druck naeher bringen (wie gesagt wir haben selbst 3 Drucker und einige Kinects zur Verfuegung. Ausserdem werden wir Bausaetze zu einem kleinen Theo Jansen Strandbeest bereitstellen, den sich die Besuchvon 13asilis - Austria RUG
Hi guys, thanks a lot for the help! I've managed to get rid of the weird oscillating traces of edges by turning the acceleration way down .. to about 500! (on the X and Y axis) ... After turning the XY-Jerk down as well, I have the feeling that too much material is being put onto the edges, leaving weird pimples that stick out in the edge-area! I've turned the Jerk up to 30 by now but maybe I dovon 13asilis - General
Hey Leute! Zwei Kollegen und ich (wir sind alle Architekturstudenten) haben gerade im Zuge eines Städtebauprojekts ein Konzept für die Reaktivierung von Leerstehenden Erdgeschosslokalen und Leerstehungen allgemein im Bezirk Meidling (Wien) entwickelt. Dafür wollten wir ein Netzwerk von öffentlichen Werkstätten errichten (Textilwerkstätten, Holzwerkstätten, Metallwerkstätten, ...) die zu einer Wivon 13asilis - Austria RUG
my bed does have springs, but they are tidened down and it looks rather stable i have to say ... the problem occurs in both directinos .. the picture shows only 1 side of the object, but the same thing happens in X as well as Y direction!von 13asilis - General
Hi guys thanks a lot for the help! I've managed to resolve the problem by decreasing the ZJERK from 0.4 to 0, now the object height is spot on! I've noticed a different problem now: I can't really classify it, if you look at the picture you can see some weird traces left behind the printed circle ... it seems to me that when changing direction the extrusion is a bit irregular, is that related tvon 13asilis - General
Thanks a lot for the reply, I did check it and it moves the demanded length per layer (at 0,2mm layer height always 0.2mm!) I got a tip from a friend of mine today, he told me that I should check if the Z-axis was always turned on in the firmware - because turning it off may result to it slipping downwards while moving fast! I'll give that a try and report back! EDIT: OK I've checked and the "dvon 13asilis - General
Hi guys, I have a really weird problem with my Z-object height ... After a Marlin firmware update (actually after losing my firmware settings and setting it all up again), my Z object height is completely off... I'm using M8 screws with 1/16 microstepping and direct drive and have the z-steps set to 2560 steps/mm in the firmware! When I ask the z-axis to move it moves the exact demanded lengthvon 13asilis - General
D1 diode has to be soldered in for it to work!von 13asilis - Reprappers
OK I've ordered a new Ramps board, I'll update as soon as I get itvon 13asilis - General
you can print the top part slower by slicing the object 2 times with different speeds, then you have to manually edit the gcode ... it's not too hard although I find it quite annoying... here's a good tutorial for calibrating your extruder and for getting quite good slic3r settings: that's part 1, in part two at the bottom it's explained how to print the same object at different speeds! undervon 13asilis - Reprappers
looks like you're printing the top part (the one that comes out as a "cylinder") way too fast... the plastic does not seem to have time to cool off! As you can see the bottom part is printing rather ok because the layers are bigger and have more time too cool! either try printing slower or adding a fan to cool the object while its being printed! are you printing in ABS or PLA? oh and somethingvon 13asilis - Reprappers
ok it's even weirder than I though ... I started the printer up again today (changed nothing) and all the axes would home normally (hurray) then I tried printing something, everything heated up and during the print the x-axis wouldnt move! stopped the print and tried homing again, everything homed except the x-axis, which stopped responding again a couple of hours later when everything cooledvon 13asilis - General
Hi guys So I've finally got my PanelMax working, installed D1 diode and have been finally able to print without being connected to a PC Then, suddenly the big disappointment: the x-axis just stops working... I've been switching around ever since, trying to figure out what was causing the problem ... the stepper seems fine (works when connected to Y-axis for example), stepper driver seems fine (Ivon 13asilis - General
Hey guys, I have kind of a weird problem: yesterday I was recompiling and uploading the marlin firmware after making some minor changes... during the uploading I got a bluescreen - my pc froze! After restarting I discovered that my Configuration.h was .. well gone! It's an empty file now .. it just writes: "nulnulnulnulnulnulnulnulnul..." Now all my configurations are lost! Is there any way to rvon 13asilis - General
Thanks for the answer! Yea I read somewhere that the diode in D1 has to be installed, it is installed on my Ramps though and it still doesnt work :/von 13asilis - General
Sorry for the Bump: Anyone know the answer to our problem/s? In short: what firmware changes have to be made (or even hardware) in order to get the printer to work without it being connected to the computer or Pronterface? I'd really appreciate a solution, you guys have been a great help so far best regardsvon 13asilis - General
I'm actually stuck at the same position, can print from SD with Pronterface running, as soon as I close Pronterface though or disconnect the USB cable the print stops. My D1 is installed ... What changes in the firmware do you have to make in order to get this working? As epareja, I've only enabled the SDSUPPORT in my Marlin-Configuration file!von 13asilis - General
hi also die werkstatt is da neben dem Nelson's! im 2. hof ... da geht so eine kleine rampe rauf .. wegen dem werkstattschein musst du schaun wann es termine gibt den zu machen, da wird immer ein zettel ausgehängt, is so ein nachmittagskurs den du machen musst, wo sie dir dann zeigen wie man die geräte bedient etc... dann musst du 30€ (glaube ich) hinterlegen für den schein und kannst die beiden lvon 13asilis - Austria RUG
here is a 3-part series from RichRap, after reading and doing that your printer should be working rather well, then the tweaking beginsvon 13asilis - General
Hey, hast du die E-Steps des extruders denn schon angepasst? Hier mal ein link in dem das gut beschrieben is (part 1): und hier noch der calculator von Prusa. viel glück!von 13asilis - Austria RUG
also bei uns auf der uni (tu wien) kann man das relativ easy machen .. man braucht da theoretisch nen werkstattschein aber ich kann dir zeigen wies geht .. ich glaub aber leider dass die unter der woche bis 5 immer komplett besetzt sind, da müsste man sich in eine liste eintragen! ich werd aber am montag nachschauen ob was frei is, der laser is dann eh spottbillig (56cent für 5 minuten) ich meldvon 13asilis - Austria RUG
Hey ich verwende ähnliche Riemen, schauen eigentlich fast identisch aus (siehe Foto) das wären HTD 3M Riemen, hab die damals von Mädler gekauft: und auch gleich passende Alu Zahnriemenscheiben: die haben, so wie deine, auch ein rundes Zahnprofil!von 13asilis - Mechanik
Super! Werde schauen, dass ich auch vorbeikomme, evtl sogar mit Drucker!von 13asilis - Austria RUG
ok thanks VDX, I've figured it out: first of all, the pins on T1 and T2 weren't working due to sloppy soldering (no contact on one of the pins) and second of all: the weirdest thing ever; I had the Ramps screwed down on piece of wood with rubber pieces in between (with metal screws and nuts), I had previously tested the temperature after resoldering and it worked fine with nothing connected andvon 13asilis - Controllers
Any ideas? can't get it to read the right temperature ..von 13asilis - Controllers