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Printing issues ...
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Hi everyone,
can you guys recommend an "extruder board / PCB" that can be used with Ramps 1.4?
I am after a solution to better organize the cables going from ramps, to the extruder, including thermistor, heater, extruder, print fan, hot-end fan, etc.
Similar to the boards below: (google images search for "extruder board")
by
fsamir
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General
First image is an easy to disconnect heater with the nice red wire cover.
Next one is a not so easy to remove, because the cables come out of both sides of the heat core. Most reputable providers sell this type.
by
fsamir
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General
Hi guys,
thanks for the tips. I am all set to try an all metal hot end sometime, but I heard that can be a bit of a pain when printing PLA, specially if cooling of the cold end isn't done right..
I guess I wasn't very clear in my first post and I should have mentioned that I am actually after a relieable quality hot end, that offer the same finishing as the cheap chinese ones and that low pric
by
fsamir
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General
Hi all,
can someone recommend a cheap chinese hot end from eBay, that works?
Long story:
I have used a couple of different of hot ends (makergear, extrude3d from Australia and the original J-head MKV) and recently I bought a chinese hot-end for $37 wiht free shipping on eBay.
By far the chinese one is the most polished of them, at least visually. They have sent me a 3mm one instead of the 1.
by
fsamir
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General
CNC dick,
I contacted them and you can order with a thermistor, rather than the thermocouple.
Ohmarinus,
Agreed. What would you suggest?
by
fsamir
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General
Has anyone tried these extruders + hotend that are selling on eBay and Ali Express?
They are quite cheap($69.00) and look well constructed. They are quite similar to the QU-BU...
Thanks
by
fsamir
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General
Hi guys,
I am unhappy with my current extruder+hot-end and I am after a replacement. Too many clogs and filament sips.
I guess these days the best combination would be an all-metal hot-end, with all-metal extruder with gear box.
I have also read that all-metal hot-ends can be problematic with PLA. how bad is that?
What would you recommend this days?
Printer is currently an Ord Not Hadron and
by
fsamir
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General
Selling my 9 months old 3D printer for $699.
It is FULLY ASSEMBLED, in perfect condition and with some vitamins and perks.
I am only selling because I have upgrade to an Makergear M2.
You can see the quality of the prints in the photos.
Makergear is famous for building one of the highest quality RepRap printers, if not the best one.
With this printer you can print with 0.1mm precision in bot
by
fsamir
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Australia - for sale
Thanks for the tips, mate. I will get in touch with them.
by
fsamir
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General
Hi there,
I am looking forward to upgrading from a Prusa Mendel to a Rostock/Kossel. Can you point me to a guide?
by
fsamir
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Delta Machines
It has been discussed here before and you might find more info using the search.
AFAIK there no Android solutions, but there are a number of people building solutions in the cloud, which will enabled less powerful device, like Android or Rpi, to execute all the steps of a print.
Check these out:
by
fsamir
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3D Design tools
If you mean Free as in Open source, OpenSCAD and FreeCad are the choices, as stated by the others.
If you mean Free as in zero cost, I strongly recommend Autodesk Inventor Fusion. It is free of charge, intuitive, powerful, easy to use, full of tutorials, runs on Win and Mac and saves your sketches to the cloud which helps to design collaboratively.
I spent a lot of time with Sketchup, FreeCad an
by
fsamir
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3D Design tools
Hi all,
like me, I believe some of you got into 3D printing to help designing and prototyping products. After several prints and mistakes, I am now happy with my designs and I would like to send it to mass production, probably in China. However, I have no expertise on the subject and I would appreciate if you could share some advice. Anything is valid, links, success and fail stories, average co
by
fsamir
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General
I have tried every free CAD tool for Macs out there and Inventor Fusion is the I like the most. It is quite straightforward to use and build simple things fast.
Disadvantages that I have been facing is it shuts down every 1h, doesn't have a way to build threads and STL export can't export components individually.
by
fsamir
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3D Design tools
It is 0.13. It is quite good, indeed. However, what blocks me is the fact that the parameters can't be defined by variables and formulas like "${external_width/2}"
by
fsamir
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3D Design tools
Not sure about teacup, but you could trye Sprinter and Pronterface or Repetier
by
fsamir
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Reprappers
As far as I am aware you will need a heated bed, covered with either kapton tape or ABS juice, if you want it to stick consistently.
I haven't tried super glue, but it I guess it will make quite hard to remove the tape from the printing bottom.
by
fsamir
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Reprappers
It worked!
I did like you said and cleaned up the blue painters tape with Acetone and it works like a charm.
Thank you!
by
fsamir
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Printing
Interesting. I will give it a shot tonight. Thanks.
ps. I've replaced the tape a couple of times to make sure the issue wasn't due to used tape.
by
fsamir
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Printing
Thanks for helping, unfortunatelly none of the clues helped.
My first thought wast that the extruder was too low and I raised it 0.1mm at time, up to a point where filament wouldn't stick consistently to the blue tape.
Also, tried raising the temperature in 5C steps, up to 205C. It helped a bit, but didn't solve the problem.
Furtheremore, in Slic3r advanced settings I played with "extrusion wi
by
fsamir
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Printing
Autodesk Inventor Fusion is the best tool I've tried so far (and I've tried every single free tool available for Macs)
by
fsamir
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3D Design tools
"Solid inspector", "Export to DXF or STL", "Fredo 6 Rouded corners" just to name a few.
I actually spent a lot of time downloading and testing every single plugin I could find on the web, untile I gave up on Sketchup.
I moved on to OpenSCAD, which did the job well, but I was still missing the visual aspects, like measuring, moving and comparing things side-by-side.
After that I tried FreeCad
by
fsamir
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3D Design tools
Hi everyone,
I can't figure out what is causing these blobs on the first layer.
1.75mm PLA, 185C, blue painters tape, printing first layer at 20mm/sec
Any thoughts?
by
fsamir
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Printing
I have got the 50x50 $18 blower from the first eBay link, that I use to cool down my aquarium stand and it makes a a lot of noise and blows a lot of air, probably much more air than it is necessary to cool the extruder.
The $3 bucks one looks like a nice alternative.
Also, have you considered and air pump for aquariums?
by
fsamir
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Reprappers
By that I meant to say that my thick idler isn't that great and starts bending every second month, until it breaks.
Remove the idler and feed filament manually with the right temperature (about 185C). It should be easy to push filament through the extruder.
If you can feed easily, your problem is either the feeding mechanism or bad filament quality.
If you can't, the problem is likely to be a cl
by
fsamir
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Reprappers
Nice post. I have always wondered about that too.
I've built the printer primarily to support my Reef Aquarium + Electronics hobby and potentially build an aquarium controller that can be commercialized. It turns out that 3D printing became a hobby in itself.
by
fsamir
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General
I had similar issues due to:
1. spool holder causing too much friction and not feeding the machine properly.
2. filament slipping because the thick idler wasn't tide enough or its starting to break apart.
by
fsamir
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Reprappers
great stuff!
by
fsamir
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Slic3r
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