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Printing issues ...
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We need to start doing projects here
Like develop a standard testing method for testing filaments from dif manufacturers and making the data available
And the project everyone keeps talking about where you take pics of printing problems then when you solve them a pic of the resolved print and how it was solved etc.
I just put the black abs i originally used in the printer to test. It's WET desp
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cdreid9999
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Printing
Hmm 40mms is slow. You may have a bad connection or maybe bad mate between thermistor and surface?
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cdreid9999
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Printing
No no no no no. That is NOT a cnc mill. That is a .. micro version of a "gantry mill".. they are pretty much used to "precision" cut wood and very thin aluminum.
If you want a Real cnc mill capable of actually milling 6061 aluminum, steel etc probably the cheapest you can get away with is a harbor freight minimill converted to cnc. We used to do this with xylotex controllers and 150oz/in + steppe
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cdreid9999
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CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
do what works for you. ebay vendors etc who sell thermistors for repraps usually have the temp settings for you. I'm Not a thermistor expert but apparently it's more complicated than you would think. I replaced my originals with ones from ebay and used the appropriate settings and im getting the same temp readouts etc so its apparently right.
One thing you have to remember is that the VAST major
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cdreid9999
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Printing
Raise your temperatures. I print abs at 265 through my e3dv5. I raise it for the colored filament and on fast prints
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cdreid9999
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Printing
Try the cleaning method where you heat up the hot end then lower it to the plastics transition point and then pull it out to clear the clogs. Also just pouring acetone down it wont help.. it takes a While for acetone to disolve abs. I'd suggest disassembling your extruder and using abs + tools to clean it manually.
Having said that it's hard to tell from that picture. You could have a permanent
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cdreid9999
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Printing
Change filament. New filament from a new vendor.
I'm currently using clear abs from ink-top on ebay. Before that i used black abs and glow in the dark blue pla from another vendor. The black has moisture problems but MOSTLY i think it has too much garbage in it( recycled im guessing). It is so bad that it permaclogged my hotend and i broke a heatbreak clearing it out. The thing is these clogs ar
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cdreid9999
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Printing
you may have solved a problem for me. suddenly while printing an x motor end i lost 2 or 3" worth of steps. tightened the belt w tentioner printed it again and... printed fine for a while then i lost 1/2". i took the machine apart and redid the belts but im thinking belt stretchign is a big problem. i think im going to try to order some higher quality belt that doesnt stretch from SDP/SI
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cdreid9999
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Printing
You could use a "hopper" approach. I considered it before i built my reprap. Frankly i think the filament approach is far superior.. consider with a hopper type system every time you change material or let the "hotend" cool down you need to disassemble EVERYTHING and remove the melted plastic. For a commercial/industrial machine it might be good. But then for that kind of machine all the extra st
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cdreid9999
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General
The current state of development/improvement is focused on hotends, extruders and new materials and those are stunningly important. Just because you dont see a new "cool toy" reprap doesnt mean development isnt going forward at warp speeds. Acetal (delrin) is about to become common and printable acetal is a HUGE step forward. For many mechanical requirements acetal can be superior to metal becaus
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cdreid9999
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General
The upgrade to good nema23's isnt expensive and is a good idea if youre designing from scratch. He is exactly right in what he said above.. except the differences are bigger than he made it sound. I have a mill that uses pac sci nema 23 steppers that are around 150 oz/in. Using a standard ramps board and drivers if you put them on the z axis and told it to move down.. it would trash the entire ba
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cdreid9999
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General
it sounds like you are losing steps. i had this problem for a bit and couldnt figure it out. Try using a voltmeter to set the X axis stepper controller rather than the other methods. The belt shold be tight.. not overly but NO slack. The x axis may be out of horizontal alignment as well but it sounds like youre losing steps either at the steppers or through the belt slipping
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cdreid9999
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Printing
i would try higher temperatures. theres no way you should get warping anyway with anythign that small and it looks like your plastic is instahardening as it leaves the nozzel. I print abs at 265 and bed 115 works well. I havent yet read of anyone having a problem using too high temps with abs
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cdreid9999
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Printing
Just an update i bought some clear and blue abs from a different vendor. the clear works astonishingly well and no clogs so far (knock on wood).
Having said that i think my big clog issue was due to the hot end nozzle throat on my e3dv5. I had a big problem with a clog and took it apart and started runnign various paperclips through it.. found a hard obstruction i couldnt remove so i tried to co
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cdreid9999
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Printing
Try cura. I was hesitant at first because slicer is easier to control and set up the bed etc but cura's supports are fantastic as well as it's speed and the ability to Easily add more parts, arrange them and even rotate/resize etc. I only really use pronterface/slicer to set up the bed or find/fix problems now if cura put more controls on the main gui i'd only use it.. i think theyre trying to ma
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cdreid9999
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Printing
The h20 problem is probably entirely dependant on where you live. I live in western nc and it's a temperate rain forest.. extremely high humidity year round.. whereas someone who lives in inland california or texas is probably dealing with very low humidity. You can most definitely tell (though it isnt a Huge problem usually) when you hear the occasional pops
Also i just got rid of the abs that
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cdreid9999
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Printing
I assume i'm wrong about the 7075. i was experimenting with some melted down 6061 scrap and reading up on alloys etc and noted a very strong alloy that includes copper so i tossed some in.. i could definitely tell the difference (though i RARELY machine castings).
On the aluminum frame vibrating of course it does.. the flaw is in the Design not the materials. stronger materials MAY decrease vib
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cdreid9999
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General Mendel Topics
thanks. 265 actually works very well for the most part. and i bet youre right about the abs. It does however eventually clog on bigger prints (say x ends and whatnot). However i live in nc in what is technically a temperate rainforestso humidity is astronomical here and ideally i should dry all abs before i use it if i had that kind of time. I just got some clear and blue in from an american ebay
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cdreid9999
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Printing
I just bought some blue and some clear abs off ebay.. the abs looks great etc etc but they wrapped the spools in cheap saran wrap in addition to a bag to hold the filament type. The problem is the stuff shredded while trying to remove it and there are pieces of it stuck all over the outer layers of the spool. I hate throwing away good abs. Any ideas on removing it?
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cdreid9999
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Printing
You are absolutely right about the designs weakness.. you're wrong about the alloy though. It isnt hardness or tensile or compression it's the combination. For instance pure aluminum would dampen vibration.. it would do it because it is extraordinarily soft and is actually low strength. It is "doughy". 7075 is basically 6061 with some copper if i remember right. This makes it a bit stronger i bel
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cdreid9999
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General Mendel Topics
i'll try raising to 270. ive been avoiding going higher as when you get at these temps the plastic is VERY liquid
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cdreid9999
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Printing
i'm not certain on time but it gets to the 90's within a minute or two it seems like.. and i had it at 95 or so flipped over to check fb and .. couldnt have been more than a minute i flipped back and it was at 110-113 and climbing. It's astonishingly fast now (note i have a piece of roll cardboard for shelving under it that helps some). The voltage upgrade is a huge plus. I'd watch my stepper tem
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cdreid9999
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Reprappers
i'm having exactly this problem too. the top of the hotend isnt hot .. even slightly. i'd say 100F (not c). I'm using a gregg wades extruder and an e3d v5 hotend i bought after i got sick of a non-all metal hotend melting. I can print very small things fine and right now i have been printing a new extruder and got about 1/4" high when it clogged on this piece. ive played with extrusion rates temp
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cdreid9999
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Printing
They are ridiculously easy to reinforce. Protip though and i have NO CLUE why it isn't standard. Cut a piece of 1/2" plywood and mount your reprap on it. Add "wings " to the back and this should pretty much eliminate vibration totally. Heck i ran out of m3 screws (got some coming from china heh) so it's missing more than a couple and i have no problems with that (with everything else.. yes). An
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cdreid9999
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General Mendel Topics
Thanks i planned(plan) on it.
I cheated and turned it up to 17v when i remembered my voltage regulator was blown and thus unlikely to hurt anything. Works fantastic.. bed heats up fast now and holds temp with no problem. Bonus of course are that the fans turn faster and the steppers should in theory be capable of 25% more speed. Now that that's sorted time to work on extrusion rate, clogging and
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cdreid9999
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Reprappers
I have cork sheeting insulating the bottom and i usually use a cork sheet on top when it is heating. If i cant figure out an upgrade i guess i'll enclose the printer.. though i plan on avoiding enclosure of the steppers and cooling them. It's a shame you'd think this would be the easest problem to solve with repraps but it seems to be the hardest.
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cdreid9999
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Reprappers
The rework is better. I built a homemade one out of 1/4" ply but wanted the z more precise so i had Fate3d on ebay cut this one for me: . It's EXCELLENT. Replaces the z mounts with much stronger and more precise wood etc etc. That's if it is laser cut. If it isnt id use the main frame components of that one and then spend time getting all the mounts VERY VERY precise. Ive also become a big fan of
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cdreid9999
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General Mendel Topics
i am Really annoyed with how long it takes to heat the bed. And sometimes it doesnt stay hot.. in addition for some reason sometimes the bed just starts dropping heat and i pretty much have to reset everythign to get it heating again. I have a 12v power supply .. also a spare 24v but it's only 5 amps so that's not helpful and im not spending the $ for a 15 amp(ish) 24v so i had some thoughts.
H
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cdreid9999
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Reprappers