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Printing issues ...
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Changed my mind. One Z motor, with a quarter turn belt ; handwheel still to be made... (dual axis Z motor). Belt tension is done by rotating the motor.
Also had to straighten the leadscrews. They were not as straight as I thougth after the first examination ! Took one hour for each, using a surface plate, filler gages, and two V-blocks on a drill press used as a press. Got them to be better than
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
An idea about drilling the shaft...
With a drill press (fixed part, spinning drill bit), the drill tends to deviate. Moreover, drill press chucks usually have a huge runout. With a lathe it's the opposite : the drill tends to auto center, even without center drilling, or with a poorly aligned tailstock. It's a fact, experienced it many times, never understood why... Recently confirmed, one more t
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yet-another-average-joe
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Tech-Talk
Had the exact same problem for a very different reason.
Was playing with Marlin serial buffer and command buffer sizes. The compiler was displaying 90-95% memory usage, but nevertheless the stack was overwriting the heap, or the opposite, or something similar. Was getting the same freezes...
But we have no informations.about the board, the firmware, the configuration.
"You can't solve a proble
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yet-another-average-joe
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General
I've been using buck converters for the Pi's, feeding them through the GPIO (direct 5V), getting rid of the crappy USB..
Never had a problem. Safety nazis will tell you that it bypasses the TVS, and chances are it will burn your house down...
I have a PiHole working this way, 24/7, for years, without any problems ; 2 more also are powered this way. With a fake LM2596 chinese module (the ones eve
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yet-another-average-joe
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General
About the dual Z...
I tested two designs, based on two motors.
- 5-8mm couplers
- 5-5mm couplers, after machining the lead screws
Best results, by far, with 5-5mm couplers.
I thought that leadscrews were case hardened... They are not. It is just some random hard steel, easy to machine, and therefore giving a nice surface finish (as hard steel usually does) ; it is not bearing grade stell (100C
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
The corners for the XY base and the vertical extrusions ouldn't be assembled without multi threaded nuts. Such parts don't exist in the wild. Let's make them ! And nothing's more beutifull than blue chips made from steel by a carbide endmill !
Of course, nuts were zinc plated (or they quickly would tend to rust...)
(one of the triple thread nuts is messed up, most likely because of a chip
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
Follow up...
Having fun building a bed slinger from the old Tornado, the stock metal I ahve handy, and the metal workshop I've been building for the last 25 years.
Keeping the frame and the bed. The bed is on silicon "springs". Machined cups that will limit the XY plane springiness...
The Z carriages :
Made a NEMA17 form factor X tensionner ; moved the X home endstop to the right side, f
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
QuoteEd3D
@ the_digital_dentist
How are you preventing rotation of the extrusion as you tighten the bolt using the method you show on the first page
Very little chance it will happen, for many reasons ; steel has less friction against aluminium than aluminium against aluminium ; surfaces are orders of magnitude away (but Amonton second law explains it has no influence...). The axial force is wa
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yet-another-average-joe
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
No, it's not a dead project. It's a work in progress.
Struggling with centering, aligning, etc. because of stupid operations ordering decisions... Dreaming of a CNC... Some parts are completed, some others are to be finished, and a few still to be designed...
I discovered that all my couplers from Ali (motors to leadscrews) are a pile of crap, with an incredible runout. No choice : will have to
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
Today, started the Z carriage ; made the front plates, that still have to be contoured (will machine the jig tomorrow).
We can see :
- the sync belt tensioner/crank is not that big. Love it, and will keep it !
- reduced the Y tensioner. Smaller, with nice chamfers.
- the two plates (6mm thick) are accurate (+-0.015mm) ; with a salmon skin pattern : when tightening the vice, the metal slighltly be
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
Not just a tensioner. It is mostly a Z crank wheel mechanism that can adjust belt tension. Called it tensioner, but it is misleading.
Could have been much simpler, with the Z crank wheel bolted to a pulley (left or right or both), plus a very simple tensioner (a idler + small arm). But everybody does it that way, and it isn't fun at all. If weight (mass) and inverted pendulum appear to be a prob
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
Dual Z belt tensioner and motor plates completed.
Blue and yellow, PETG : the tensioner and plates I've been using for the last 4 years, inspired by Cornelly Cool designs (see Thingyverse) ; hugely improved the printing quality of this crappy printer. One of my very first designs...
The design was modified so it is easily machinable.
The black crank is the reason why I want to switch t
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
I was mistaken. He does not mill the end. It's about drilling / tapping. There's no choice there. Remembered the setup as a milling setup, probably because I hate side milling... This being said, today I had much better results side milling a different alu alloy (chips not as sticky as usual)
The video :
Today, I made the plates for the Z motors. Two "dual shaft" motors on top of the printer ;
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
Milling the ends of extrusions is something I would avoid at any price. There are two ways to do this (in my shop).
The simple one : the extrusion in the vice, and side milling ; I don't like that because the surface finish is not great, vibrations, tool flexing, and chip recycling... The smallest deviation will be amplified when another long part is bolted to.
The complicated one, that gives the
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
Some progress...
Made the raisers (1) so a repurposed food dehydrator can seat underneath. Y motor mount (2), and Y belt tensioner (3). Motor mount and belt tensioner are made so the belt is anywhere parallel to the bed carriage (unlike the incredibly crappy Creality/Tevo design.
Also designed and machined so the whole Y axis actuator can be removed form the printer as one sub assembly (extruded
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
I am not building a printer, I am rebuilding a Tornado that came with the Y axis (bed) on six rollers. The bed is a thick and heavy borosilicate plate (total > 2.5 kg).
These ball bearings are not made for axial loads (625 are not deep groove bearings, come from China, and are crap : have 30 rollers, 50% are dead on arrival, not even lubricated, and with a terrible play !).
6 rollers is 33% de
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
Yes indeed ; 2.5 or 5 mm pitch would make life easier with direst drive, having 0.1mm resolution would be great... Hope the Voron offers this resolution (didn't have look for now, next year project...).
For now, started with the Tornado rebuild. Cut some stock, inventored billets and sorted scrap aluminium. Had to re-CAD some parts depending on what is available in the basement, and requires the
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
Good points !
I'm rebuilding my bed slinger using such nuts. They are tight fit and nearly friction free : seems the anti backlash grubscrew is useless. If you look at the rendering I posted, you will see a pair behind the vertical 20x40..
BTW, do you think that a (re)build based on Creality CR10 / Tevo Tornado extrusions and machined parts could be interesting on the forum ? Too lazy to update
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
Z-hop : OK, I see.
Ballscrews : forgot this one... And then, attempting to regain resolution with pulleys, we lose precision because of runouts...
Or motor rather than pulley ?
200 steps/2mm vs 400 steps/5mm is not a huge difference : 0.01 vs 0.0125.
Talking about ballscrews, I just did a search and discovered that 12mm ballscrews with 4mm pitch are now available. I was unable to source 12mm 5 y
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
Heated chamber completed/tested (55°C only because of the bimetallic thermostat _ could be replaced with Marlin regulation). Currently redesigning the old Tornado for (conventional) machined parts. Hope I will be in the metal workshop within a couple of days.
About weight/mass, there's one detail I don't understand : Z-hop. Everytime I tried to use it, it was a fail (PET only : strings and blobs
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
Thanks for your answer.
Will have to redesign many parts if not all, as most are not machinable with conventional machine tools. Also want the controller in a separate enclosure not under the bed.
Will be a different machine (except the head and the kinematics). I suspect a one year long project (at least). At first I wanted to build my own 3D printer, but got a Tornado for cheap ; had to retrofi
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
I will build a Voron 2.4, the large one (350x350). Because it has a fixed bed and I do want a fixed bed. And I need something that prints fast.
The author warns against using CNC machined parts (vs ABS printed ones). Good news : I have conventional machine tools (used, industrial), no CNCs.
I've been searching why.
I found some answers, but none makes sense to me.
1 - machining from STLs does
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yet-another-average-joe
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Mechanics
Couldn't wait, did some experimentation, with the folding windsreen shields.
Folding windsreen shields : made of 4 layers : alumin(i)um, cardboard, styrofoam, aluminium, total = 1.5mm
The printer is naked : no motors, no hotend, not printing, just the bed @ 100°C.
The enclosure is not completed : not really airtight, larger than it will be. Holds with painter's tape.
The dehydrator is enclosed, u
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yet-another-average-joe
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General
You forgot to link your make (the transparent bread box) !
(currently building the enclosure. Hope I will be able to do some thermal testings tomorrow ; polishing CAD for the mods : draw twice, machine once ; of course, forgot to print some parts before the printer was taken apart !)
Discovered something about PET : when tapping, it heats up a lot (all plastics do, FFF or not). I used a machine
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yet-another-average-joe
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General
The technique tested by CNC Kitchen a couple months ago ?
( )
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yet-another-average-joe
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General
Quotethe_digital_dentist
I have found that if the PETG sits in the heater block too long it gets bubbly.
I had the same conclusion, but wasn't sure... Thanks for the confirmation.
I don't understand the problem with inter layer adhesion. I've been using this PET brand for a long time (10kg or so) with no problems, printing strong parts. It is a new spool, first time I purchase a 2.3 kg one. Cam
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yet-another-average-joe
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General
It is PET, not PETG... the problem was interlayer adhesion, not bed adhesion (printing on stainless steel, no PEI, and sprayed with adhesive similar to hairspray : stick as hell). Got a beautifull but useless matte part... Also not oriented properly on the bed. Bad work.
Temperature was to low ! (forgot to change it after printing ABS). Removed the ghetto chamber, all needed ABS parts being print
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yet-another-average-joe
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General
Filament run-out detectors are usefull, but not those that can be purchased (they are just crap)... I designed my own, and it allows using the very end of a spool : ; use it all the time and it makes me really happy ! But it has to be made, so "makers" will never make it. They prefer downloading baby Groots and printing figurines...
Currently printing raisers for the frame, with PET, and havin
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yet-another-average-joe
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General
Quotethe_digital_dentist...I didn't insulate the underside of the print bed because the heat "lost" there helps warm the chamber, so it isn't really lost.
This a *GREAT* advice !!!
No, I will not have a large volume ; as you can see, I didn't insulate the whole machine. I was even considering trimming the two vertical extrusions (I have a Bridgeport under steroids that can do this easily and pr
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yet-another-average-joe
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General
Thanks for your answer. I've been reading most of your posts, and I'm familiar with your printer (and the other bot that draws in the sand)
Was 100% sure you'd be the first answering !
Yes, I'd like 50-60°C.
Meanwhile, some progress :
Searching the web I found only one example of a heated 3D printer using a food dehydrator. I was very disapointed there's no other examples !
I took a pic from
by
yet-another-average-joe
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General
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Pages: 123